V1 Power Needs

[TheFlapjack]

All of a sudden last night my V1 stopped working when plugged in via the hardwire. My V1C continues to get power from the hardwire, the fuse seems to be good. If I plug it into the 12v, it all works fine. Tells me the fuses are good, the cord and V1 are good. How much power should I see on the pins in the main connector? Which of the 4 pins are for power?
Could just half the V1C just go bad?

 

[Bloovy One]

The center two pins are power. So, the V1 works in a different configuration? Which V1 are you working with?

 

[TheFlapjack]

Most up to date V1G1.

It works fine via lighter adapter. No power when plugged into direct wire. Will check for power at the pins in morning.

 

[Bloovy One]

If your V1C is getting power from the hardwired supply, I agree that your fuse is probably good. It sounds like the cable between your power supply and V1 has gone bad.

Do you have another straight cord to replace it with? If not, you can probably find one at many stores. Just be sure it's an official "bell standard" phone cord that's Yellow - Green - Black - Red on one end and the colors are reversed on the other end. Also, you need at least 4 wires in the cord to communicate with the V1C and for muting.

 

[LouG]

Have a look in the V1 power socket and check the wire contacts are still sticking up, not flattened. But it's more likely the cable.

 

[TheFlapjack]

If your V1C is getting power from the hardwired supply, I agree that your fuse is probably good. It sounds like the cable between your power supply and V1 has gone bad.

Do you have another straight cord to replace it with? If not, you can probably find one at many stores. Just be sure it's an official "bell standard" phone cord that's Yellow - Green - Black - Red on one end and the colors are reversed on the other end. Also, you need at least 4 wires in the cord to communicate with the V1C and for muting.

Except that same cord works fine between the 12V lighter adapter and V1.

Have a look in the V1 power socket and check the wire contacts are still sticking up, not flattened. But it's more likely the cable.

See above.

Everything works fine with cigarettes lighter adapter. N ok power to V1, but there is to the V1C via hardwire.

 

[InsipidMonkey]

Are you using the direct wire kit and cords that were included with the detector, or any aftermarket cords?

Did you plug/unplug anything before it stopped working?

The polarity of the center two pins are reversed between the V1 and ACC sockets on the hardwire and cigarette lighter adapter, and some aftermarket cords may be "straight through" instead of reversed like the "Bell standard" referenced above. Mixing these up would reverse the polarity at the detector, causing it to not power on.

If you haven't changed anything, the only other thing I can think of is a connection is loose somewhere and the voltage drop when the detector is trying to start up when connected to the hardwire is too high. Do you have a multimeter? Can you check the voltage at the hardwire, and the voltage at the ACC tap when the V1 is plugged in and powered on? The safest way to do this is to take an old phone cord (2 wire is fine) and cut off one end so you have two wires to connect to the multimeter without risking a short.

 

[TheFlapjack]

Are you using the direct wire kit and cords that were included with the detector, or any aftermarket cords?

Did you plug/unplug anything before it stopped working?

The polarity of the center two pins are reversed between the V1 and ACC sockets on the hardwire and cigarette lighter adapter, and some aftermarket cords may be "straight through" instead of reversed like the "Bell standard" referenced above. Mixing these up would reverse the polarity at the detector, causing it to not power on.

If you haven't changed anything, the only other thing I can think of is a connection is loose somewhere and the voltage drop when the detector is trying to start up when connected to the hardwire is too high. Do you have a multimeter? Can you check the voltage at the hardwire, and the voltage at the ACC tap when the V1 is plugged in and powered on? The safest way to do this is to take an old phone cord (2 wire is fine) and cut off one end so you have two wires to connect to the multimeter without risking a short.

Everything is from VR and had been working fine for a year. Literally just stopped working the other morning. I havent had a chance to check the voltage on the direct wire, hopefully today.

Do these have a history of going bad? I tried cleaning the connectors but nothing.

 

[Bloovy One]

They haven't had a history of going bad. I was using an 18 year old power supply with my 2016 Gen1 until March.

 

[LouG]

Except that same cord works fine between the 12V lighter adapter and V1.


See above.

Everything works fine with cigarettes lighter adapter. N ok power to V1, but there is to the V1C via hardwire.

I did have a dodgy hardwire adapter once, it was the older round body unit.
Do you have a multimeter for testing?

 

[TheFlapjack]

I did have a dodgy hardwire adapter once, it was the older round body unit.
Do you have a multimeter for testing?

Yeah, just haven't had time to. I assume it should be close to 12V or does the adapter dumb down the power?

 

[Bloovy One]

These adapters are very straight-forward. It's typically a fuse, a capacitor of some sort and two RJ jacks. Nothing extra.

 

[InsipidMonkey]

These adapters are very straight-forward. It's typically a fuse, a capacitor of some sort and two RJ jacks. Nothing extra.

Interesting! I didn't realize there was a second fuse inside the direct wire adapter...

 

[Bloovy One]

Crud. No. That was a cigarette lighter adapter. I'm sure there's probably not a fuse in the wired adapter. Sorry for the confusion.

 

[TheFlapjack]

I think I've found the issue.

 

[Bloovy One]

That might be the problem.

What the heck!?! Do you have any idea how it could get that way?

Post automatically merged: May 8, 2020

Luckily VR is open again now.

 

[TheFlapjack]

That might be the problem.

What the heck!?! Do you have any idea how it could get that way?

Post automatically merged: May 8, 2020

Luckily VR is open again now.

I could understand being dirty a bit, being on a motorcycle. But missing one of the pins? No clue about that one.

 

[BIGGER Dave]

Yup, that’s the problem. As Bloovy One said, the center two pins are power, so it’s not getting power. Replace that and you should be fine.

 

[Bloovy One]

Oh, Motorcycle... Yeah. Get some dielectric grease and apply it around the plugs as you insert them on the new one. There's also that weatherproof gel stuff but that might be harder to find.

 

[TheFlapjack]

Oh, Motorcycle... Yeah. Get some dielectric grease and apply it around the plugs as you insert them on the new one. There's also that weatherproof gel stuff but that might be harder to find.

For sure, I've been using it for a while on the bike and previously on a boat.