V1 Internal Revision Pictures

CobawLT2010

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The fact that it’s a C after sending in for a power failure is good news I guess for us with still working first run units - meaning the letter designation may mean nothing significant
Cost savings from what I understand. I also have heard C boards are slightly better RF wise.

Again, it’s why you can see my posts going back stating I wouldn’t care what revision I have... so long as it’s a working decent performer.
 

odiddy

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Except the fact that the old ass C boards look like crap cleanliness wise. 👎 Definitely NOT $500 worth.
The more I think on this, the more I think what it looks like could be somewhat trivial.

The real question (to me), is... does it get the job done for the price I'm willing to pay for it? and, could I live with the fact that I may have to send it in for possible repair(which doesn't correlate directly to how it looks today, and could happen with any product)

When you bought that flat screen, did you take off the back panel and inspect it?

I think it's good information to have, and glad we know how it looks. What I'd most interested in learning about is which ones are related to performance degradation from unit to unit.

Even ones that do look sloppy and could have performance differences, it all really depends on how the mfg. went about it addressing it at a system level.

for example, let's say Unit A has a microstrip that looks better and should perform better than Unit B.... that still doesn't mean that Unit A would perform better in application.

Reason being, if the mfg. could always opt to neuter unit A to that of the best B -or- they could set a threshold to only let devices that meet certain performance criteria pass (to which you will have slightly stronger performers).

And if I really want a "better looking" board, I know I can probably wait and statistically it should be better after they go through some more builds and tighten things up.
 
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CobawLT2010

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The more I think on this, the more I think what it looks like could be somewhat trivial.

The real question (to me), is... does it get the job done for the price I'm willing to pay for it? and, could I live with the fact that I may have to send it in for possible repair(which doesn't correlate directly to how it looks today, and could happen with any product)

When you bought that flat screen, did you take off the back panel and inspect it?

I think it's good information to have, and glad we know how it looks. What I'd most interested in learning about is which ones are related to performance degradation from unit to unit.

Even ones that do look sloppy and could have performance differences, it all really depends on how the mfg. went about it addressing it at a system level.

for example, let's say Unit A has a microstrip that looks better and should perform better than Unit B, that still doesn't mean that Unit A would perform better in application.

Reason being, if the MFG. could always opt to neuter unit A to that of the best B -or- they could set a threshold (to which you will have slightly stronger performers).
There is something to be said for people who are worried post warranty. I personally would be slightly worried about the inevitability of my unit dying out of warranty after dropping half a K on a unit that has been known in the past to be a reliable one.
 

odiddy

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There is something to be said for people who are worried post warranty. I personally would be slightly worried about the inevitability of my unit dying out of warranty after dropping half a K on a unit that has been known in the past to be a reliable one.
I'm in agreement on your concern here (and why I'm opting to wait), but I don't think how the board looks today(or which rev you have) has been tied directly back to how it performs and how long it will last.

I mean if anything, Rev C could be a stronger board.

MV gave @Vortex a rev C board.

(if he knew vortex, an avid reviewer was going to get it, wouldn't he try to give him one that he knew would last the test of time? ) if F was truly more superior, I would expect him to give Vortex the F.

(plot twist, he gave him the C board so we would infer above)
 

SwankPeRFection

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The more I think on this, the more I think what it looks like could be somewhat trivial.

The real question (to me), is... does it get the job done for the price I'm willing to pay for it? and, could I live with the fact that I may have to send it in for possible repair(which doesn't correlate directly to how it looks today, and could happen with any product)

When you bought that flat screen, did you take off the back panel and inspect it?

I think it's good information to have, and glad we know how it looks. What I'd most interested in learning about is which ones are related to performance degradation from unit to unit.

Even ones that do look sloppy and could have performance differences, it all really depends on how the mfg. went about it addressing it at a system level.

for example, let's say Unit A has a microstrip that looks better and should perform better than Unit B.... that still doesn't mean that Unit A would perform better in application.

Reason being, if the mfg. could always opt to neuter unit A to that of the best B -or- they could set a threshold to only let devices that meet certain performance criteria pass (to which you will have slightly stronger performers).

And if I really want a "better looking" board, I know I can probably wait and statistically it should be better after they go through some more builds and tighten things up.
If it was 1963 and guys were putting together these boards with soldering irons in their basement and it didn’t cost $500, I’d be OK with it. It’s 2020 and craftsmanship vs price should be a concern. If the V1 was $80, meh, OK, but not $500. That’s bs when you consider other premium electronics. I don’t care how big or small VR is. If you charge a premium price, build a premium product... and here’s the thing, IF THEY HAD CRAP LOOKING BOARDS AND ZERO FAILURES, perhaps I wouldn’t be so outspoken about it, but it’s not even that man. They are failing and we’re not taking one or two. That is enough to dictate VR do better.
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I'm in agreement on your concern here (and why I'm opting to wait), but I don't think how the board looks today(or which rev you have) has been tied directly back to how it performs and how long it will last.

I mean if anything, Rev C could be a stronger board.

MV gave @Vortex a rev C board.

(if he knew vortex, an avid reviewer was going to get it, wouldn't he try to give him one that he knew would last the test of time? ) if F was truly more superior, I would expect him to give Vortex the F.

(plot twist, he gave him the C board so we would infer above)
Pretty sure old Mike isn’t the one fixing these issues himself at the moment. I think it’s wishful thinking on your part with that conjecture.
 
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Deadhead1971

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I mean if anything, Rev C could be a stronger board.
Yea I like the sound of that.

Rev C = BETTER
:mmmsmug: :mmmhmm:

oops . I haven’t taken mine apart to see what I have. :)
 

odiddy

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If it was 1963 and guys were putting together these boards with soldering irons in their basement and it didn’t cost $500, I’d be OK with it. It’s 2020 and craftsmanship vs price should be a concern. If the V1 was $80, meh, OK, but not $500. That’s bs when you consider other premium electronics. I don’t care how big or small VR is. If you charge a premium price, build a premium product... and here’s the thing, IF THEY HAD CRAP LOOKING BOARDS AND ZERO FAILURES, perhaps I wouldn’t be so outspoken about it, but it’s not even that man. They are failing and we’re not taking one or two. That is enough to dictate VR do better.
I see your point of view and side with it.

I'd argue that it would be cheaper if it wasn't soldered by hand, I'm sure the manual work adds some good cost to it. Frankly it probably doesn't matter overall as V1 is likely taking a market price approach (and maybe even factoring in the lost $ of BOB + BLE dongle)

but with all that, I think it's all relative here -
You need to take the $500 and compare it against similar products.
so, range + arrows + BSM

The cheapest I know of out there right now is the R7 at ~$436
The most expensive we know of right now is the 360c ~$599

Range (with arrows) (and filtering) per $ has V1 sitting somewhere in the middle (so it's not like $500 is crazy for this type of product)

As a consumer, we tend to put different weights on things we care most about.

Score comparative to how I value an RD
(higher numbers mean higher weight for me)
  • BSM Filtering: 5
  • Reliability: 10
  • Has arrows: 7
  • Range: 10
  • Freq Display: 3

Some people are willing to live with a 5 on reliability, and for them, the V1G2 will probably work.

So in short, relativity is the key thing, and when stacked to the relatives, $500 for this type of product isn't demanding the most.
Nonetheless, every product we buy from anyone should be perfect, but companies are run by humans, and humans make mistakes.
 
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SwankPeRFection

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Well, you can look at it that way and you’ve got good points, but I like to look at things in a much simpler way. Is it worth me spending $500 on a new V1 to improve BSM filtering vs my current V1 given the current “quality” of the new product. My answer is no, especially when the BSMs I tend to see more of in traffic are stupid ass GMC SUVs. Those are still listed on the list of non-filtered cars. I mean, spend $500 on something that could fail to power up, could have a delaminating front display in hot weather and still not be as silent as I want it? That’s like getting a divorce from someone who’s just a little too naggy and marrying a more luxury girl who looks good but wears too much makeup that might run in the heat, that nags perhaps a bit less but runs the risk of ending up being a dead fish in bed (i.e. power failure) compared to that current wife who’s damn hot, but keeps yapping about the same old shit all the time like you can’t see it for yourself. Lol

At this rate, might as well wait and see what that Theia girl’s gonna be all about. Maybe she’s a 🦄. 😜
 
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odiddy

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Well, you can look at it that way and you’ve got good points, but I like to look at things in a much simpler way. Is it worth me spending $500 on a new V1 to improve BSM filtering vs my current V1 given the current “quality” of the new product. My answer is no, especially when the BSMs I tend to see more of in traffic are stupid ass GMC SUVs. Those are still listed on the list of non-filtered cars. I mean, spend $500 on something that could fail to power up, could have a delaminating front display in hot weather and still not be as silent as I want it? That’s like getting a divorce from someone who’s just a little too naggy and marrying a more luxury girl that nags perhaps a bit less but runs the risk of ending up being a dead fish in bed (i.e. power failure) compared to that current wife who’s damn hot, but keeps yapping about the same old shit all the time like you can’t see it for yourself. Lol

At this rate, might as well wait and see what that Theia girl’s gonna be all about. Maybe she’s a 🦄. 😜
I see what you mean - we are looking at this with the same lens.

I'm holding onto the V1 (high marks on what I care for) for now as well, waiting on theia and for a more refined version of V1G2.

Ideally, I think the best for me will be whatever comes after Theia (if they opt to have a middle performance unit with some of the Theia elements carried over, but I likely won't wait).
 
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Heywood

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I see your point of view and side with it.

I'd argue that it would be cheaper if it wasn't soldered by hand, I'm sure the manual work adds some good cost to it. Frankly it probably doesn't matter overall as V1 is likely taking a market price approach (and maybe even factoring in the lost $ of BOB + BLE dongle)

but with all that, I think it's all relative here -
You need to take the $500 and compare it against similar products.
so, range + arrows + BSM

The cheapest I know of out there right now is the R7 at ~$436
The most expensive we know of right now is the 360c ~$599

Range (with arrows) (and filtering) per $ has V1 sitting somewhere in the middle (so it's not like $500 is crazy for this type of product)

As a consumer, we tend to put different weights on things we care most about.

Score comparative to how I value an RD
(higher numbers mean higher weight for me)
  • BSM Filtering: 5
  • Reliability: 10
  • Has arrows: 7
  • Range: 10
  • Freq Display: 3

Some people are willing to live with a 5 on reliability, and for them, the V1G2 will probably work.

So in short, relativity is the key thing, and when stacked to the relatives, $500 for this type of product isn't demanding the most.
Nonetheless, every product we buy from anyone should be perfect, but companies are run by humans, and humans make mistakes.
Great post. Thank you.

I’m with you on the reliability of a product. Doesn’t matter what it is. Tools. Workwear, TV’s, cars, furniture.... etc.

I’d rather pay a little more for something will last, rather than pay less... but replace it more. Especially if it’s something I’ll be using a lot. My time is worth a lot to me.

I can make money... I can’t buy back the time that I’ve lost.

If I seen a fair amount of issues...I’d wait it out if I could. If I couldn’t wait it out.... and had limited funds... I’m not sure I’d jump.

If I had the coin to spare, I’d probably go for it and take the chance on just reputation. If it failed .... I’d probably let them fix it... but I’m not sure I’d buy from them again.

If it happened twice, to the same thing... I’d ask for my money back and move on.... or sell it and move on.

Doesn’t matter what it is. There’s nothing really that I would stick with. Even my bikes and choice of manufacture. If I had issues with those shortly after buying it... they’d get one chance. Twice.... well there’s other options.

I just might find out there’s things the “other option” does, that I might really appreciate.... or grow on me.... then the original choice has lost me for a long time.
 
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RayC

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I'm in agreement on your concern here (and why I'm opting to wait), but I don't think how the board looks today(or which rev you have) has been tied directly back to how it performs and how long it will last.

I mean if anything, Rev C could be a stronger board.

MV gave @Vortex a rev C board.

(if he knew vortex, an avid reviewer was going to get it, wouldn't he try to give him one that he knew would last the test of time? ) if F was truly more superior, I would expect him to give Vortex the F.

(plot twist, he gave him the C board so we would infer above)
Really how the board looks really makes no difference. It could look like a pile of you know what but if the unit wasn't failing so much nobody would give it a second look or even bother to open it up. The fact that people are splitting their units open to see what board they have is indicative of the larger problem.
 

Heywood

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Really how the board looks really makes no difference. It could look like a pile of you know what but if the unit wasn't failing so much nobody would give it a second look or even bother to open it up. The fact that people are splitting their units open to see what board they have is indicative of the larger problem.
X100.
Had there been little to no issues.... I doubt anyone would’ve cared what’s inside.

I still don’t really care what my other detectors look like inside.... because they give me no reason to look.
 

RayC

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I see your point of view and side with it.

I'd argue that it would be cheaper if it wasn't soldered by hand, I'm sure the manual work adds some good cost to it. Frankly it probably doesn't matter overall as V1 is likely taking a market price approach (and maybe even factoring in the lost $ of BOB + BLE dongle)

but with all that, I think it's all relative here -
You need to take the $500 and compare it against similar products.
so, range + arrows + BSM

The cheapest I know of out there right now is the R7 at ~$436
The most expensive we know of right now is the 360c ~$599

Range (with arrows) (and filtering) per $ has V1 sitting somewhere in the middle (so it's not like $500 is crazy for this type of product)

As a consumer, we tend to put different weights on things we care most about.

Score comparative to how I value an RD
(higher numbers mean higher weight for me)
  • BSM Filtering: 5
  • Reliability: 10
  • Has arrows: 7
  • Range: 10
  • Freq Display: 3

Some people are willing to live with a 5 on reliability, and for them, the V1G2 will probably work.

So in short, relativity is the key thing, and when stacked to the relatives, $500 for this type of product isn't demanding the most.
Nonetheless, every product we buy from anyone should be perfect, but companies are run by humans, and humans make mistakes.
The V1G2 is not $500, they charge shipping on top of that and the R7 has been available for $419 with free shipping. As for your ratings I would rate reliability high with range. Frequency display is a 10 as well, it's important. GPS features are a 10 for me built in. Then again I still think a stand alone unit needs GPS built in to be a viable RD.
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X100.
Had there been little to no issues.... I doubt anyone would’ve cared what’s inside.

I still don’t really care what my other detectors look like inside.... because they give me no reason to look.
Spot on, "no reason to look".
 
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Bloovy One

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That's a good point. Perhaps we should then add an asterisk'ed item for "Works with an App" for those that utilize the bonus features of apps with and without compatible detectors.

For me, I'd say that the ability to display detector info and log it on my driving app of choice would be a 6. I won't drive without JBV1 running.
 

CobawLT2010

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I'm in agreement on your concern here (and why I'm opting to wait), but I don't think how the board looks today(or which rev you have) has been tied directly back to how it performs and how long it will last.

I mean if anything, Rev C could be a stronger board.

MV gave @Vortex a rev C board.

(if he knew vortex, an avid reviewer was going to get it, wouldn't he try to give him one that he knew would last the test of time? ) if F was truly more superior, I would expect him to give Vortex the F.

(plot twist, he gave him the C board so we would infer above)
I am merely going based off of statistics not looks... the number of failing units is higher than in the past.

Sometimes handcrafted items are better than mass produced... depends on the item...
 
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Heywood

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I am merely going based off of statistics not looks... the number of failing units is higher than in the past.

Sometimes handcrafted items are better than mass produced... depends on the item...
Agree. Somethings... but intricate things like electronics... I think it’s better by robot just on the QC/QA side of it.

I think the top of the line corvette engines are all hand assembled by one person who proudly puts his plaque with his name on it. From complete bare block to long block.
 

odiddy

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Great post. Thank you.

I’m with you on the reliability of a product. Doesn’t matter what it is. Tools. Workwear, TV’s, cars, furniture.... etc.

I’d rather pay a little more for something will last, rather than pay less... but replace it more. Especially if it’s something I’ll be using a lot. My time is worth a lot to me.

I can make money... I can’t buy back the time that I’ve lost.

If I seen a fair amount of issues...I’d wait it out if I could. If I couldn’t wait it out.... and had limited funds... I’m not sure I’d jump.

If I had the coin to spare, I’d probably go for it and take the chance on just reputation. If it failed .... I’d probably let them fix it... but I’m not sure I’d buy from them again.

If it happened twice, to the same thing... I’d ask for my money back and move on.... or sell it and move on.

Doesn’t matter what it is. There’s nothing really that I would stick with. Even my bikes and choice of manufacture. If I had issues with those shortly after buying it... they’d get one chance. Twice.... well there’s other options.

I just might find out there’s things the “other option” does, that I might really appreciate.... or grow on me.... then the original choice has lost me for a long time.
We value the same things. (100% agree that time is more important) and I prefer to pay more, if it means service less.
Post automatically merged:

The V1G2 is not $500, they charge shipping on top of that and the R7 has been available for $419 with free shipping. As for your ratings I would rate reliability high with range. Frequency display is a 10 as well, it's important. GPS features are a 10 for me built in. Then again I still think a stand alone unit needs GPS built in to be a viable RD.
Post automatically merged:



Spot on, "no reason to look".
We are splitting hairs here. The key with the R7 price is that it WAS that price. (also, do they charge tax state to state? cuz amazon does across the board). (you can also call V1, and get a slightly used unit for 10% less).

The point I was trying to make was just relativity and how some people value aspects of a purchase.
 
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CobawLT2010

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Yea I like the sound of that.

Rev C = BETTER
:mmmsmug: :mmmhmm:

oops . I haven’t taken mine apart to see what I have. :)
Just cause I said that doesn’t make it true. I am sure, due to the lottery, there are rev F boards that out perform some C boards.
 

Jon at Radenso

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Just for the sake of accuracy....make sure you guys are specifying which revision of which board. Remember, there are C revisions of the mainboard but also of the RF board. I highly doubt which mainboard revision you have makes a difference on the RF side. That would be down to the RF board revision.

If you haven't opened up the horn, you don't know which revision RF board you have.
 

SwankPeRFection

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Just FYI, in at least one pic in another thread, the horn has an “E” written on it in permanent marker. While it’s not definitive proof, it could indicate the RF board revision for VR’s internal use. Something they note during assembly of the board to the horn for info reasons. (It would be easier to know what revision you’re working with when pulling parts without having to take it apart each time or just guess at it.) Would be nice to know from others if this is the case so we can substantiate it.
 

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