Powering Theia

odiddy

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The USB load tester came in today, and it’s pretty sweet. I hooked it to the back of my USB meter, cranked it down, and hooked the USB meter into a spare 1A USB wall wart. At first I thought it was a 300mA wall wart, and I was impressed when it didn’t skip a beat, maintaining a little over 5V steadily without issue. Until I hit right around 1A, and then it fell on its face, dropping voltage off a cliff. I looked at the label again and realized I had glanced at the input amperage rather than the output. It provided up to 1A faithfully but no more.

I’m looking forward to getting those hardwire 12V USB power supplies in to see how far I can take them. In theory the dummy load should run out of additional headroom about the same time the power supplies do. If it keeps up all the way to 3A I’ll be duly impressed. If it actually keeps that up for years, I’ll be delighted :)
Nice! which one did you get?
 

GTO_04

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Brainstorm69

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Just for clarification for anyone reading this who does not have a Uniden RD, they use Mini USB only for loading firmware, not for powering the system in use.

T!
FYI, Uniden switched to micro-usb for updating fw on the R7.
 

SwankPeRFection

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Someone needs to contact Mirrortap and get them started on building USB-C taps. Not 100% sure if they’ve made any yet...
 

Deacon

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Someone needs to contact Mirrortap and get them started on building USB-C taps. Not 100% sure if they’ve made any yet...
The problem is their existing taps are just wires, simple to make and execute. A USB (C or otherwise) would require a converter and probably be capable of a high output level (e.g. 3A). That will require a big bulge in the wires and won’t be nearly as cut and dried as their normal stuff. And it doesn’t seem like any USB power out mirror tap will be a high volume unit. If they can find and test and be satisfied with a high quality 5V supplier that’s engineered to withstand the heat and vibrations and dust (and maybe occasional moisture) for an automotive environment, then it would be cool to sell a shortcut like that.
 

SwankPeRFection

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The problem is their existing taps are just wires, simple to make and execute. A USB (C or otherwise) would require a converter and probably be capable of a high output level (e.g. 3A). That will require a big bulge in the wires and won’t be nearly as cut and dried as their normal stuff. And it doesn’t seem like any USB power out mirror tap will be a high volume unit. If they can find and test and be satisfied with a high quality 5V supplier that’s engineered to withstand the heat and vibrations and dust (and maybe occasional moisture) for an automotive environment, then it would be cool to sell a shortcut like that.
They have some that have that inline for dashcams, just not USB-C.
 

Bloovy One

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Not to argue this point again Swank;
but it's really easy to run a cable to the fuse area/dash area of most vehicles. Mirrors weren't designed to run other devices (some run a lower than normal voltages/amperages) and the method of contact between a mirrortap and the mirror itself would not pass electrical inspections if that were a thing.

A solid and sufficient connection could be the difference between issues with Theia and a well running Theia. I'd bet that Radenso would rather not have to deal with the potential issues of a mirrortap scenario in various vehicles. Certain people would take those issues and make a mountain out of nothing. (Repeatedly)

We talk down other poor connection methods here at RDF because of the issues that can occur. It's really not hard to do it correctly the first time.

To each his own, this is my point of view...
 

NVR2FST

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The only trouble is that most newer vehicles don't have much space to install aftermarket electronics out of view. And what space their is gets filled up pretty fast.
 

InsipidMonkey

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Has anyone considered getting something like this? https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B086KTGRH1/?tag=rdf0cd0c-20
That might work. In my experience, the quality of some of these 12V-5V USB converters is highly variable, especially the ones rated for higher current.

Again, I think the best option is to see what Radenso comes up with first, as it will almost certainly be higher quality than whatever you can buy on Amazon for ~$10.
 

Blasirl

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Please note, I defer to your expertise, so this is just a question... But if as you say in the following...

"For power alone (no data), you could in theory build a product that takes the 12V DC power source, downconverts it to 5V DC, and provides a USB-A or USB-C output port. No such product exists today that I know of, nor really does it have any reason to exist."

Then what is this (linked to and mentioned in the first page of this thread)???

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07ZQB6S3L/?tag=rdf0cd0c-20

Or this???

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MEF293V/?tag=rdf0cd0c-20

Thanks!



~
Why, can't you see, they are both SCHLONGS :eek:

61AhJBfhY3L._AC_SL1000_.jpg


Sorry, I couldn't resist.
1590876546248.png
 
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SwapFile

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I am hopeful we will be able to get Theia below 2a at full tilt after power optimization...
I'd be down for wasting a bit of power, as long as it doesn't overheat. I'd assume low power consumption isn't a priority for most people as long as it works!
 

Deacon

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Dual USB A hardwire with 1x QC up to 3A and 1x up to 2.4A, $19.99 (Prime), lots of ratings, highly rated
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078FTSJWJ/?tag=rdf0cd0c-20
I bought and received two of these. Both seemed DOA. I finally got around to troubleshooting them, and sure enough, both were DOA. Sad. Amazon return initiated for a refund.

USB-C PD and and USB-A QC 3.0 output with cool mounting options, $17.99 (Prime), few ratings, all older, unclear details in the description regarding what it's truly supposed to be capable of if you have multiple things going at once.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B087CGQDXH/?tag=rdf0cd0c-20
These are now a dollar less at $16.99. I ordered one, should be in tomorrow some time. I have no existing way of testing USB-C PD capabilities, but I can at least test out USB-C to my wife's iPhone 11 Pro, see how that goes. Now I wish I had a native USB-C meter or C-male-to-A-female adapter, but I don't feel like messing with it. If it charges her iPhone, great. If I can pull 3A on the USB-A side, then I'm sure whatever we do it'll be fine.

I've had one of these little USB meters for about 3 years, and it's come in very handy a few different times. With the USB load tester plugged into the other end of it, it's super interesting to see what these little power supplies can actually put out, though it's not exactly an oscilloscope to see how clean the power is.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01D9Y6ZFW/?tag=rdf0cd0c-20
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From the obd2. Has a switch to prevent any draw when off

OBD2 16-pin Plug Male To USB Female Charging Power Cable For Car GPS DVR
Best to avoid OBD ports for this sort of thing anyway, but in this case it's only advertised to put out up to 2A. It's probably best to aim for something that claims 3A.
 
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Deacon

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Well this is a single sample, so I can’t speak to consistency or longevity, and as noted before I have no means of testing USB-C PD functionality, but this is looking like a great choice! I pushed it up over 3.5A before stopping and calling it a success. Voltage output at idle read 5.23V on the USB-A output.

AFEC844F-4066-47D7-8C58-C10F8865563C.jpeg


1591545586614.png

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B087CGQDXH/?tag=rdf0cd0c-20
 

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