Powering Theia

OBeerWANKenobi

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Hey @OBeerWANKenobi ,

Did you note that each port only supports 2.4 amps at 5V? I think @Jon at Radenso stated 3 amps at 5V at some point for Theia, you might want to check into that. I think quick charge 3.0 (I think that's 4.8 amps) and above might be what you need, but I'd like a Radenso operative to comment to be 100% on that.
Yeah, You're right. For some reason I thought the one I bought was 3 amps. I guess I'll find out if 2.4 is enough. LOL. Edited my above post.

Honestly, I"m not sure how much to trust the power ratings on any of these things. Meanwhile, you guys look for a better one. I'll also be installing a 12v distribution block nearby so it'll be a quick fix for me.
 
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odiddy

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I grabbed this one:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XHJZL91/?tag=rdf0cd0c-20
It seems to have enough amperage and I liked the form factor and the orientation of the ports for my particular install. I can tell you that my new dashcam wouldn't run on the small 12v to 5v USB converter that the old camera ran on but it runs on this just fine.

I only have my dashcam and scanner hooked up to it at the moment so I won't know until later how it will do with more peripherals. I'm going to run a USB cable from one of my AC vents down to this as well to charge my phone without cables hanging all over.
If you really want to test out ahead and see how robust it is, grab a usb load tester like this:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B072B785ZL/?tag=rdf0cd0c-20

Figure out what your total load will be, set it 20-30% or higher than that, then run it on it in the hot summer and see if you have any issues.

(keep a fire extinguisher handy, you never really know the quality of some of those cheapies)

(and of course, don't forget to make sure the circuit you are tied into can handle that load collectively)
 

Vortex

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I grabbed this one:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XHJZL91/?tag=rdf0cd0c-20
It seems to have enough amperage and I liked the form factor and the orientation of the ports for my particular install. I can tell you that my new dashcam wouldn't run on the small 12v to 5v USB converter that the old camera ran on but it runs on this just fine.

I only have my dashcam and scanner hooked up to it at the moment so I won't know until later how it will do with more peripherals. I'm going to run a USB cable from one of my AC vents down to this as well to charge my phone without cables hanging all over.

ETA: Theia may be rated for 3 amps at 5v and the hub I bought says it only supplies 2.4 amps at 5v
Nice, I grabbed this one. Similar idea, but it looks like mine has a slightly longer power cord (which is nice so it can reach to where I need). It also has some QC 3.0 ports which can do up to 4.6A. I'm not sure if I'll need the extra over the 2.4A ports, but I'll test both once it arrives.
 

aim4squirrels

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I've had very good luck Anker products. They tend to do what they say they do as far as charging my phone.

I have an old Anker charger that was quick charge 2.0 which was the fastest charge rate at the time. When I plug my phone into it, the total charge time is greater than when I used my newer QC 3.0 charger from Anker.

That's my anecdotal evidence.

Edit: my big concern for some of these charging solutions is they may be proprietary and that means they might need a special chip or code to realize the full charging potential, not unlike a HDMI handshake on your home entertainment stuff. No chip or code means you might not realize the full output potential of the device.

I think we should all hold off until Radenso comments on the proper specs.
 
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OBeerWANKenobi

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Nice, I grabbed this one. Similar idea, but it looks like mine has a slightly longer power cord (which is nice so it can reach to where I need). It also has some QC 3.0 ports which can do up to 4.6A. I'm not sure if I'll need the extra over the 2.4A ports, but I'll test both once it arrives.
I was looking at that one too.......Darn! I guess I was just ignorant that the 3.0 ports would output 4.6A since I don't have any devices that can take advantage of it. Well, I guess I could use one for a second car so if mine doesn't work for Theia, I'll see how yours does.
 

Deacon

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It also has some QC 3.0 ports which can do up to 4.6A.
I guess I was just ignorant that the 3.0 ports would output 4.6A since I don't have any devices that can take advantage of it.
The actual description when you dig down into it only claims a max of 3A for the QC 3.0 ports.

I’m hoping to find something smaller I can hard wire and tuck in behind the the side fuse panel, but that looks like a decent option.
 

Jon at Radenso

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Theia will likely not actually need the full 3a to run, however most of those devices do not actually put out their power ratings. And Theia will almost certainly be over 2a. So...
 

OBeerWANKenobi

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The actual description when you dig down into it only claims a max of 3A for the QC 3.0 ports.

I’m hoping to find something smaller I can hard wire and tuck in behind the the side fuse panel, but that looks like a decent option.
Besides my ignorance on 3.0 ports, that's the reason I went with the one I did. I didn't need more ports and it seemed like the form factor would be smaller. I'm hiding it behind the trim in my center counsol area in a place that it can't be seen but where I can reach behind and access the plugs to add a wire if need be.
 

OBeerWANKenobi

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Theia will likely not actually need the full 3a to run, however most of those devices do not actually put out their power ratings. And Theia will almost certainly be over 2a. So...
If you end up finding a good one that you like Jon, definitely let us know. I realize that Theia will probably come with a hardwire kit and proper power adapter but I think a lot of people will want to opt for some type of hub like these considering how many devices are already powered by USB or are going that direction.
 

lugnuts

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Nice, I grabbed this one. Similar idea, but it looks like mine has a slightly longer power cord (which is nice so it can reach to where I need). It also has some QC 3.0 ports which can do up to 4.6A. I'm not sure if I'll need the extra over the 2.4A ports, but I'll test both once it arrives.
I have the same one.
 

Vortex

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Thanks for the note about the device only handling 3 amps. I guess devices don't always have the capability of maxing out what the ports are theoretically capable of, just like how some normal USB ports do 0.5A, 1A, 2.4A, etc. This is actually the reason I've held off on running my own hardwire preemptively and building it myself. I'd rather wait for Radenso's cable so I can be totally sure that it'll work.
 
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OBeerWANKenobi

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Thanks for the note about the device only handling 3 amps. I guess devices don't always have the capability of maxing out what the ports are theoretically capable of, just like how some normal USB ports do 0.5A, 1A, 2.4A, etc. This is actually the reason I've held off on running my own hardwire preemptively and building it myself. I'd rather wait for Radenso's cable so I can be totally sure that it'll work. I'm afraid we're starting to go a little OT here though... :)
Moved OT discussion to a more "proper" location. :)
 

Vortex

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Moved OT discussion to a more "proper" location. :)
lol thank you! I just did a double-take at first. I could have sworn we were having this discussion in another thread. :D
 

InsipidMonkey

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Even though a QC 3.0 charger can output 3+ amps, Theia won't be able to use it unless the USB port also supports the QC 3.0 standard and can negotiate with the charger to supply that current. Instead, you should be looking for a charger that natively supports USB-C (eg has a USB-C port as an output). Or, as Vortex suggested, wait and see what Radenso comes up with as a power option as that is guaranteed to work.
 

OBeerWANKenobi

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Even though a QC 3.0 charger can output 3+ amps, Theia won't be able to use it unless the USB port also supports the QC 3.0 standard and can negotiate with the charger to supply that current. Instead, you should be looking for a charger that natively supports USB-C (eg has a USB-C port as an output). Or, as Vortex suggested, wait and see what Radenso comes up with as a power option as that is guaranteed to work.
Sits back and waits for Insipid to find and link a great hub for me that will work.


giphy.gif



😄;)
 

Deacon

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I poked around a little and came up with a few options. I'm only looking for something with at least one extra USB output so it can also power a Scosche MagicMount Pro Charge. Dashcams have their own dedicated 5V power supply. Theia will not require USB-C PD (Power Delivery) and sounds like it won't be set up to use it even if available. But there are a few options that claim to be able to provide quite a bit of amperage, with hardwires more readily available for units intended for motorcycles. Here are a few examples:

Dual USB A hardwire with 1x QC up to 3A and 1x up to 2.4A, $19.99 (Prime), lots of ratings, highly rated
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078FTSJWJ/?tag=rdf0cd0c-20

USB-C PD and and USB-A QC 3.0 output with cool mounting options, $17.99 (Prime), few ratings, all older, unclear details in the description regarding what it's truly supposed to be capable of if you have multiple things going at once.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B087CGQDXH/?tag=rdf0cd0c-20

Mountable metal box enclosure USB-C PD out and USB-A QC 3.0 out up to 3A, $34.99 (Prime), few ratings, mostly good, and can probably be removed from its housing for mounting in tighter spaces.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B077BD4FD7/?tag=rdf0cd0c-20

I can't speak for any of them, as they're just search results, but I may give that first one a shot. Sounds pretty good to me. And I think the iPhone 11 Pro is still a 10W max (e.g. 2A at 5V) draw from the MagicMount Pro Charge, so if it can pull that from the secondary port, that's just fine.
Post automatically merged:

PS Here's one that's designed to fit into a Toyota switch slot that claims to provide dual 3A out of its USB-A ports. One rating, and doubtful, but inexpensive at $9.99 (Prime).
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B082F44PX6/?tag=rdf0cd0c-20
 
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Deacon

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OK, so for my two vehicles, I actually went ahead and ordered two of those first ones with the dual USB-A outputs, an SAE power extension cable that I can then cut in half to get two plug ends, and I went ahead and got that USB dummy load that @odiddy linked to, which is a great idea even though it maxes out at 3A. It it comes close, we're good. Amazon claims none of it (Prime!) will arrive until the 29th, a week from Friday. We'll see. I'd love to hook it up through my USB load meter and see how it does.
 
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Deacon

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The USB load tester came in today, and it’s pretty sweet. I hooked it to the back of my USB meter, cranked it down, and hooked the USB meter into a spare 1A USB wall wart. At first I thought it was a 300mA wall wart, and I was impressed when it didn’t skip a beat, maintaining a little over 5V steadily without issue. Until I hit right around 1A, and then it fell on its face, dropping voltage off a cliff. I looked at the label again and realized I had glanced at the input amperage rather than the output. It provided up to 1A faithfully but no more.

I’m looking forward to getting those hardwire 12V USB power supplies in to see how far I can take them. In theory the dummy load should run out of additional headroom about the same time the power supplies do. If it keeps up all the way to 3A I’ll be duly impressed. If it actually keeps that up for years, I’ll be delighted :)
 

tempnexus

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Hi all,
In a few threads there are getting to be some posts about how Theia will be powered as we get closer to release day. Lots of terminology is being thrown around; some understand, some don't. Hopefully we can get it all nailed down in this thread. :)

Here are some common types of USB connectors that are currently popular:
View attachment 138979


USB type C is the connector on the Theia itself and is reversible. USB type A (USB-A) or USB type C (USB-C) will be used at the other end of the cable.

To hopefully eliminate some confusion, USB Micro B has been often used for Android phones and Lightning has been often used for iPhones. Included here for reference, neither will be used for Theia at all. Most newer phones seem to be migrating to USB-C as well.


Many newer vehicles have either USB-A ports or USB-C ports built in that supply 5 volts. If Theia were to be powered from the vehicle, the cable used will have to match on one end.
My 2018 car for example has USB-A ports so I will need a "USB-A to USB-C" cable if I want to power Theia from the car itself.

Another option is to use an adapter that either plugs into the older cigarette lighter socket or
"hard wires" to the fuse area where the vehicle typically provides "12 volts". (Typically 12 to 14 volts)
View attachment 138980View attachment 138981


These adapters usually have USB-A outputs on them, but some might have USB-C instead. As above, the cable chosen should match the adapter.


I look forward to getting more information from Radenso about powering Theia in these various scenarios. :)
From a very good source that I can not disclose, THEIA will be powered by Soviet era RTG
 

Jon at Radenso

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I am hopeful we will be able to get Theia below 2a at full tilt after power optimization, but even if we do we will tell people 3A for safety margin. Today without a screen, but with the front end tuning and the inferencing program running we were seeing about 1.9A. I think in final form we will add a couple hundred milliamps with peripherals, but there is a lot of headroom to be had with FPGA power optimization.
 

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