Modern Headlights . . . Part 2

poolmon

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In follow-up to the original post "Everything You Wanted To Know About Modern Headlights," for those with HID or LED headlights (or thinking of getting them) you will probably find the following videos very interesting . . . . [I started a new thread since I did not want the new videos to get buried deep in the original thread and be hard to locate for anyone interested].
Who knew how these simple lights are not so simple anymore . . .

1. How Low-Beam-only (single filament/arc/led) projector headlights can still switch to Hi Beam with a camera-like shutter controlled by a solenoid (at minute mark 1:20).




2. How single arc Low Beam-only HID can switch to Hi Beam with a magnet that merely re-positions the arc within the headlight enclosure (at minute mark 3;00)




3. How an LED bulb replacing an older Halogen bulbs can actually worsen the light output if it uses multi-sided chips




4. HID Bulb Dynamics (how to choose 35/55 wattage & K-color . . . a must-know for those switching)

 
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GernBlanston

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Yep. 99% of those conversions are worse for light-on-the-road and light-in-traffic's-eyes.
 

oktavf

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Yep. 99% of those conversions are worse for light-on-the-road and light-in-traffic's-eyes.
I get plenty more light with HIDs @ 35 watts then halogens @ 55 watts on the road even in a reflector assembly. Yes there is some sort of cutoff and yes I aimed them down quiet a bit over halogen bulb height, etc.! :shifty:
 

poolmon

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I get plenty more light with HIDs @ 35 watts then halogens @ 55 watts on the road even in a reflector assembly. Yes there is some sort of cutoff and yes I aimed them down quiet a bit over halogen bulb height, etc.! :shifty:
I've got 35 watt 5K HID projectors on one vehicle and halogen projectors on another. The difference is literally day and night. I'm working on converting the halogens which is what triggered my research and the informational posts as a result. I agree, 35 watt 5k HID cannot be beat currently. Mine are 15 years old and not a single issue.
 

auskip07

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How about the timing. I just installed HID's in my Tacoma Projector housing. I was pretty upset with the Morimoto kit and the DOA Ballast that threw sparks when touching the body. 35w/ 4500k. For the price i would have expected better reliability
 
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poolmon

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How about the timing. I just installed HID's in my Tacoma. I was pretty upset with the Morimoto kit and the DOA Ballast that threw sparks when touching the body. 35w/ 4500k. For the price i would have expected better reliability
Sorry to hear about the incident.
That brand seems to get some pretty good reviews from what I've seen.
 

auskip07

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Sorry to hear about the incident.
That brand seems to get some pretty good reviews from what I've seen.
Its not worth the cost. you are paying for a warranty. Their HD relay kit is the only thing worth buying at $30 everything else i would look to another kit.

also worth noting the Phillips bulbs tend to perform better with same ballast / housing producing more lux but at 150/set they should
 

poolmon

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Its not worth the cost. you are paying for a warranty. Their HD relay kit is the only thing worth buying at $30 everything else i would look to another kit.

also worth noting the Phillips bulbs tend to perform better with same ballast / housing producing more lux but at 150/set they should
When switching to HIDs I did run across this additional detail involving regular vs CAN BUS ballasts.

 

Buz

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I just put LED low/high/fogs in my 2018 F150, mostly because I want to keep the truck another five years and would never have been able to do so with those dingy yellow halogens. It was the one thing about my new truck that just seemed really OLD.
The LED's are two sided with correct LED placement to duplicate the original halogens. They have the nice modern new car white color (6000k)

My biggest problem with retro fitting cars with LED's and HID's is that people don't understand how GD important it is to RE-AIM your lights after installing them. Most of the good LED's have big fans on the base which can prevent proper aiming.
I spent a good hour modifying my headlight housings (cutting away plastic) to ensure I could bring the aim down to the proper level.

It just baffles my mind the number of people who do not give a shit about anyone coming toward them. As long as their lights are blazing 500 feet down the road then all is good with the world.

If you've installed LED's or HID's in your car and have not taken the time to ensure they are aimed correctly, then you are the problem; you are the assh0le; you are that guy.

It's probably been posted here already, but this is by far the best video for how to properly aim your headlights, whether you have LEDS, HIDS or Halogens.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GWvSWBlAwnI

Please everyone, when you have time, make sure your headlights are aimed correctly.
 
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auskip07

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I just put LED low/high/fogs in my 2018 F150, mostly because I want to keep the truck another five years and would never have been able to do so with those dingy yellow halogens. It was the one thing about my new truck that just seemed really OLD.
The LED's are two sided with correct LED placement to duplicate the original halogens. They have the nice modern new car white color (6000k)

My biggest problem with retro fitting cars with LED's and HID's is that people don't understand how GD important it is to RE-AIM your lights after installing them. Most of the good LED's have big fans on the base which can prevent proper aiming.
I spent a good hour modifying my headlight housings (cutting away plastic) to ensure I could bring the aim down to the proper level.

It just baffles my mind the number of people who do not give a shit about anyone coming toward them. As long as their lights are blazing 500 feet down the road then all is good with the world.

If you've installed LED's or HID's in your car and have not taken the time to ensure they are aimed correctly, then you are the problem; you are the assh0le; you are that guy.

It's probably been posted here already, but this is by far the best video for how to properly aim your headlights, whether you have LEDS, HIDS or Halogens.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GWvSWBlAwnI

Please everyone, when you have time, make sure your headlights are aimed correctly.

I measured on my Garage door where i was before and adjusted down to that level. The biggest difference i see beside that the HID dont have as crisp of a cut off line is the off axis light level. I can now see a deer approaching the road instead of when its at the curb.
 

Buz

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I measured on my Garage door where i was before and adjusted down to that level. The biggest difference i see beside that the HID dont have as crisp of a cut off line is the off axis light level. I can now see a deer approaching the road instead of when its at the curb.
Yep, same here. The upper cutoff isn't quite as crisp.
But as long as the brightest spot on the wall is below the centerline of the headlight you won't be blinding everyone coming toward you.
 

GernBlanston

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Buz said:
My biggest problem with retro fitting cars with LED's and HID's is that people don't understand how GD important it is to RE-AIM your lights after installing them...

...It just baffles my mind the number of people who do not give a shit about anyone coming toward them. As long as their lights are blazing 500 feet down the road then all is good with the world.

If you've installed LED's or HID's in your car and have not taken the time to ensure they are aimed correctly, then you are the problem; you are the assh0le; you are that guy...
This ^^ Thank you!
 

nhdriver

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You'll hate me then. But yes, I have mine precisely aimed (have a specific location for this type of thing) and don't purposely turn my light bars on or high beam if not necessary. Been a long-time retrofit enthusiast for a while now. I probably have more obsession with lights than RD stuff. I did a G5-R projector retrofit to run OSRAM CBB 7000K bulb boosted with Morimoto 50W ballast. Both the CBH & CBB bulbs actually run at around 4700-5000K by the time 50W ballast is added so 7000K is kind of misleading but anyhoo...

Along with that, a high beam is a reflector bulb so I take full advantage with a high power Cree XHP70 chipped bulbs that have a giant heatsink on the back that push around 6,500 lumens per bulb. Since G5-R is a Bi-Xenon projector, I split the line with the high beam so my headlights have dual high beams.

Fog lamps have 4,000 lumens LED bulbs each (I think they're Philips chip)...now has a yellow tint.

Annnnnd I recently added two Rigid SR-10 PRO spot behind the grill level with the fog lamps...about 7,000 lumens each and has around 1,800 lux per bar at 30 ft or so. I still need to install my Rigid 4" D-XL Pro Hyperspots that only has around 3,500 lumens but lux is around 2,500 at 30 ft because of the pencil beam to cover the distance that all my other lights can't...

It gets super dark around here (Bortle 2) and even darker north of Maine where I go up once in a while. Usually, my HID & fog lights are on but the rest of the time on the back roads, high beams with the light bars come on ;)
 

poolmon

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You'll hate me then. But yes, I have mine precisely aimed (have a specific location for this type of thing) and don't purposely turn my light bars on or high beam if not necessary. Been a long-time retrofit enthusiast for a while now. I probably have more obsession with lights than RD stuff. I did a G5-R projector retrofit to run OSRAM CBB 7000K bulb boosted with Morimoto 50W ballast. Both the CBH & CBB bulbs actually run at around 4700-5000K by the time 50W ballast is added so 7000K is kind of misleading but anyhoo...

Along with that, a high beam is a reflector bulb so I take full advantage with a high power Cree XHP70 chipped bulbs that have a giant heatsink on the back that push around 6,500 lumens per bulb. Since G5-R is a Bi-Xenon projector, I split the line with the high beam so my headlights have dual high beams.

Fog lamps have 4,000 lumens LED bulbs each (I think they're Philips chip)...now has a yellow tint.

Annnnnd I recently added two Rigid SR-10 PRO spot behind the grill level with the fog lamps...about 7,000 lumens each and has around 1,800 lux per bar at 30 ft or so. I still need to install my Rigid 4" D-XL Pro Hyperspots that only has around 3,500 lumens but lux is around 2,500 at 30 ft because of the pencil beam to cover the distance that all my other lights can't...

It gets super dark around here (Bortle 2) and even darker north of Maine where I go up once in a while. Usually, my HID & fog lights are on but the rest of the time on the back roads, high beams with the light bars come on ;)
So that glow I saw in the NE sky from DC was you up in ME running the backwoods. Sounds like your alternator itself may put out its own glow supplying all that power.

After looking at the first video posted I realized I had not even remotely kept pace with the developments in modern automotive lighting nor how some can even be controlled by the vehicle's computer and its integrated canbus communications systems. It truly is no longer as simple as just screwing in a light bulb. It is very interesting to say the least.
 

GearGuy2009

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You'll hate me then. But yes, I have mine precisely aimed (have a specific location for this type of thing) and don't purposely turn my light bars on or high beam if not necessary. Been a long-time retrofit enthusiast for a while now. I probably have more obsession with lights than RD stuff. I did a G5-R projector retrofit to run OSRAM CBB 7000K bulb boosted with Morimoto 50W ballast. Both the CBH & CBB bulbs actually run at around 4700-5000K by the time 50W ballast is added so 7000K is kind of misleading but anyhoo...

Along with that, a high beam is a reflector bulb so I take full advantage with a high power Cree XHP70 chipped bulbs that have a giant heatsink on the back that push around 6,500 lumens per bulb. Since G5-R is a Bi-Xenon projector, I split the line with the high beam so my headlights have dual high beams.

Fog lamps have 4,000 lumens LED bulbs each (I think they're Philips chip)...now has a yellow tint.

Annnnnd I recently added two Rigid SR-10 PRO spot behind the grill level with the fog lamps...about 7,000 lumens each and has around 1,800 lux per bar at 30 ft or so. I still need to install my Rigid 4" D-XL Pro Hyperspots that only has around 3,500 lumens but lux is around 2,500 at 30 ft because of the pencil beam to cover the distance that all my other lights can't...

It gets super dark around here (Bortle 2) and even darker north of Maine where I go up once in a while. Usually, my HID & fog lights are on but the rest of the time on the back roads, high beams with the light bars come on ;)
Wow that sounds like a wicked setup! I dropped in some HIDs designed for my VW housing aka they are painted so as to no blind people and pseudo create a cutoff in the Reflector housing and that does pretty decent!

Recently my dad got a new VW Atlas that comes factory with LED lights and I had to say I was really impressed for a factory setup how nice VW did on that.
 

nhdriver

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So that glow I saw in the NE sky from DC was you up in ME running the backwoods. Sounds like your alternator itself may put out its own glow supplying all that power.

After looking at the first video posted I realized I had not even remotely kept pace with the developments in modern automotive lighting nor how some can even be controlled by the vehicle's computer and its integrated canbus communications systems. It truly is no longer as simple as just screwing in a light bulb. It is very interesting to say the least.
Ya it seems to be really changing fast. While LED tech is just not there for aftermarket headlight application (I've tried so many and never works well), brighter & more efficient LEDs are all over the market and dirt cheap.

Wow that sounds like a wicked setup! I dropped in some HIDs designed for my VW housing aka they are painted so as to no blind people and pseudo create a cutoff in the Reflector housing and that does pretty decent!

Recently my dad got a new VW Atlas that comes factory with LED lights and I had to say I was really impressed for a factory setup how nice VW did on that.
Those LED's are very cool for sure! Love the clean & crisp output. More efficient than HID's even.
 

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