R3 (on 1.50) vs R7 (on 124.111) K-band Falses

Bloovy One

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The V1 had plenty of false alerts, even before BSM

TurboDriver posted almost exactly what I was going to say.

I have driven with a detector since 1984, I know what falses are and where they happened, very rare on open road, mostly in city from door openers or leaky detector but they were manageable...nothing compared to today.
 

Kennyc56

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i tried city mode on the R7 for my drive home today (so not a very big sample) and it was definitely quieter than 30%. still got a couple falses, but they were weak and short lived.

however, i did note a reduced notice for 2 constant on k-band speed signs i drive by.

i know thats the trade off with city, but had those speed signs been hidden cops, on one of them i for would definitely not have had enough notice to slow down. the other one was only about 200 feet less than my 30% setting, nearing the edge of a curve by an underpass - so a fairly terrain limited situation.

i think ill live with city for the majority of my driving, and try to remember to switch over to Advanced @ 30- 50% when i'm in a more risky k-band area.
Remember, those signs are not the same as a real police radar gun! I have been hit multiple times with my 24.150 K band gun during testing, and while city mode does take away some distance, I still have plenty of time to react! Your R7 is a monster! It's even better on K band than a R1 or R3!
 
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Fixxxer0

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Remember, those signs are not the same as a real police radar gun! I have been hit multiple times with my 24.150 K band gun during testing, and while city mode does take away some distance, I still have plenty of time to react! Your R7 is a monster! It's even better on K band than a R1 or R3!

Oh really? I did not know that, I just assumed they were pretty much the same thing set up in a sign...

How do they differ? Less power?

ETA: googled and found this on another forum, which was interesting to learn...

Most of the older speed signs use a conventional police radar antenna (circularly polarized, pumping out 25-50 milliwatts) on either K or Ka Band. With the amount of power these units drawl, they are usually supplied by several car batteries.
Since you spied the solar panel (if this is a radar sign) it is VERY likely to be a very low power unit like the SS3300 which pumps out a max of only 5mw and uses a linearly polarized horn. The bugger about linear polarized horns is that they can be set up to transmit in either the vertical or horizontal plane. Veritical would not be an issue, but horizontal is problematic for several reasons.
First, the horns inside our detectors are vertically polarized.......which are compatible with either Circular or Vertically polarized radar transmissions but not very good at picking up Horizontally transmitted signals. Second, Horizontally polarized transmissions are VERY tightly focused in the ground plane meaning you pass through the beam very quickly. This problem is usually compounded if the antenna is targeted across the road at a sharp angle as opposed to being in line with traffic.
The fact that you stated the sign only displays your speed only seconds before passing the sign would indicate (if it is radar) that it is low power, horizontally polarized and targeted across the road at an acute angle. The typical range on these units is supposed to be at least 300 feet so either this unit was running out of juice or they angled it too sharply to achieve the prescribed range.
In any case, I wouldn't worry, this is nothing like the radar we are concerned with. Most M4's (9500ix, 8500/X50) will probably miss this detection and even the vaunted M3 (RedLine, 9500ci, and Magnum) would only give a few seconds of alert.
 
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Kennyc56

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Oh really? I did not know that, I just assumed they were pretty much the same thing set up in a sign...

How do they differ? Less power?
They are all over the place on power as most are solar powered. I run into some K band signs that I can get off axis forever, then the next one only at 200 feet and line of sight!
 

crabu2

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All I know is that I need a really sensitive detector. The reason is terrain. With hills, dips, open areas, places with tons of foliage, and curves... range can be really bad to good. There are sections of road where I might pick up a signal only as I crest a hill from less than a 1/4 mile away. There have been times where from the time my detector went off, the LEO was in my face in under 5 seconds because of the curve. And I'm guessing because of the foliage soaking up a lot of the signal.

With that said, I can tell you that 50% on K band is brown streaks in my shorts, but it's enough to save me. Even 70% is, at times, a brown streak moment on the R3.
 
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Heywood

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They are all over the place on power as most are solar powered. I run into some K band signs that I can get off axis forever, then the next one only at 200 feet and line of sight!
Agree.

And they are all over on the frequency scale as well. The same solar powered sign will give you different frequency readings almost every day. Some times a little, sometimes a lot.

I have a course of 8 within a 1.5 radius of my home. Depending on the amount of traffic, and lack of sun due to being overcast, I can see different frequencies from the same sign from the morning when I went to work, to the evening when I get home.
 

denny2w

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Quote: "I come from a time where detectors would false non stop"
I agree with your statement. If others were an old fart like me, they would remember how bad things used to be (failing to work properly often)
Things are so much better now, but people still complain.
 

Kennyc56

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Guess I prefer superior filtering to longer distance, no matter how its designed, it performs to my liking and man I LOVE the Wi-Fi update and autolearn features my inferior brand allows. Just saying..
That's because you don't drive in an area like I do where all I ever see is point blank I/O shots! Your only hope is either to slow the hell down, which I'm not going to do, or you get the fastest most sensitive detector you can buy which sure as hell ain't a 360! The whole point of having a killer detector is getting a whiff of 34.7 around that next curve over a mile a way where mr. state trooper is hiding waiting to ruin your night! My R1's will reach out and touch his @ss! Btw I solved the back antenna K false problem! I'm running my Redline-O in the back glass with K band off segged to 2-5-8! I don't mean anything personal with this post either! Lucky for me I can filter the hell out of K band because I never see it anymore, otherwise I would still be running K band wide open as well! Ka band is a whole different story!
 
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RoadDogg

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In the two days I have been running my R3 with firmware 1.50 with the K-block notch filter on, it has really made a significant positive difference in the K-band BSM false alarms. I have been running my R3 only in Highway mode in the city and on the highway. I don’t use lockouts in the city, and my R3 is pretty quiet. I have seen a lot of Acuras, Hondas, and a few Pacificas with BSMs, and I have only had one BSM punch through from a newer Honda Pilot Elite with a BSM at 24.160 outside of the K-block range.

I already was satisfied with the BSM filtering of my R3 under 1.48 (and 1.37), but the K-block makes a positive significant difference if you are willing to take the slight risk of turning that small segment of K-band off. Most of the K-band I have encountered is in the 24.110 to 24.125 range in my region.

I know it’s not an “apples” to “apples” comparison, but my R3 with 1.50 and K-block on seems to be quieter than my Max 360c in terms of false alarms now with BSM false alarms (and especially with the increased laser false alarms under firmware 1.9 on my Max 360c). I will have to spend more time with my R3 to “firm up” this opinion, but I feel like I have a brand new detector with firmware 1.50. It is still early on, and I haven’t had many real police radar encounters, but I like 1.50 so far. I don’t have an R7 so I cannot comment on that detector, but I am glad that Uniden has given the R1/R3 owners the option of the K-block. My wife and daughter are going to like the quieter R3 with K-block as they don’t have the same “noise” tolerance as I do.


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Brainstorm69

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Oh really? I did not know that, I just assumed they were pretty much the same thing set up in a sign...

How do they differ? Less power?

ETA: googled and found this on another forum, which was interesting to learn...

Most of the older speed signs use a conventional police radar antenna (circularly polarized, pumping out 25-50 milliwatts) on either K or Ka Band. With the amount of power these units drawl, they are usually supplied by several car batteries.
Since you spied the solar panel (if this is a radar sign) it is VERY likely to be a very low power unit like the SS3300 which pumps out a max of only 5mw and uses a linearly polarized horn. The bugger about linear polarized horns is that they can be set up to transmit in either the vertical or horizontal plane. Veritical would not be an issue, but horizontal is problematic for several reasons.
First, the horns inside our detectors are vertically polarized.......which are compatible with either Circular or Vertically polarized radar transmissions but not very good at picking up Horizontally transmitted signals. Second, Horizontally polarized transmissions are VERY tightly focused in the ground plane meaning you pass through the beam very quickly. This problem is usually compounded if the antenna is targeted across the road at a sharp angle as opposed to being in line with traffic.
The fact that you stated the sign only displays your speed only seconds before passing the sign would indicate (if it is radar) that it is low power, horizontally polarized and targeted across the road at an acute angle. The typical range on these units is supposed to be at least 300 feet so either this unit was running out of juice or they angled it too sharply to achieve the prescribed range.
In any case, I wouldn't worry, this is nothing like the radar we are concerned with. Most M4's (9500ix, 8500/X50) will probably miss this detection and even the vaunted M3 (RedLine, 9500ci, and Magnum) would only give a few seconds of alert.

Good info. I think I have one not terribly far from my house. My detectors only give about 300 feet of detection, if that. I've been meaning to stop and check it out, but haven't had the time whenever passing by.
 

crabu2

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This morning, I counted... The drive was 1hr 20mins.. 66.7 miles.

The R3 on fw 1.50 alerted to 8 BSM polluters. 2 were Honda Pilots, and I must say the ramp up was like a real LEO radar, up to 3 bars on both. The others were Jeep, Mazda, and one of those Chrysler mini vans.

As for BSM that K block kept silent.... I counted 5 Hondas. I watched their side view mirror to see that little BSM light blink.. There may have been more that I missed.

With that said, I say K block has reduced my BSM falses to around 50% on my R3. It's fantastic for now, but I sure hope Uniden comes out with a real BSM filter since Honda looks to have moved their BSM to 24.16x and some are saying Benz is now polluting around 24.100.
 

tempnexus

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Everyone should be sensitive because it creates complacency. Constantly hearing a beeping that is not real 99% of the time (in my experience / location with K-band) makes it extremely hard to take it seriously for a real alert.

I can deal with it and have ways to mitigate it like you said with Quiet Ride and reducing sensitivity, but my point is that they can do it much better on the older R3, why not their new flagship R7? I also used a V1 since 2000 and it was almost unusable with X band on. And you are right that today they are super silent in comparison.

I'm sure it will get there eventually, but it really should be better for what they are charging (and already provide on the R3).
Sadly that's me and K alarm....I should run with K off since I mostly ignore it...sigh
 

Stormwatch1968

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I think Uniden built what they thought everybody wanted: an R3 with arrows.

What they, (and likely we) didn't understand is exactly what that would mean.

The rear horn likely DOES NOT need the same amount of sensitivity as the front to be very effective as the best RD on the market.

When traveling forward, the distance to a threat is rapidly being consumed, especially if they are traveling in opposing lanes toward each other. You need max range to give you maximum reaction time.

In a rear encounter, the Leo might be closing on you, but you're still going in the same direction as the threat so the Leo will close much slower on your position, so range likely needs to be much less to be just as effective.

I think we're seeing the full potential right now of an R3 rear horn, the question is, do we really need it?

Personally I would say no, unless the filtering abilities can be greatly improved, then you can let fly with the full range.

When my R3 alerted to KA this weekend on 69 in Indiana, I noticed the signal strength rising and falling for over 5 minutes, which led me to believe the officer was traveling in the same direction- but was either in front or behind me. I pulled my R3 off my windshield and pointed it backwards, and it lit up full strength. 2 minutes later the ISP charger passed me in the left lane. Poor man’s R7


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leesrt

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With 1.50 is there a benefit to running TSF? What are the pros and cons?
 

nomore55

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I've witnessed new highs and lows (reported frequencies) on K band over the past few days. Have reverted to "K narrow" as of last night.
 

aim4squirrels

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When my R3 alerted to KA this weekend on 69 in Indiana, I noticed the signal strength rising and falling for over 5 minutes, which led me to believe the officer was traveling in the same direction- but was either in front or behind me. I pulled my R3 off my windshield and pointed it backwards, and it lit up full strength. 2 minutes later the ISP charger passed me in the left lane. Poor man’s R7


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For the longest time, I never worried about arrows on a detector for that exact reason. If you learn to interpret how the detector operates and alerts, you can get a pretty good idea of where the officer is regardless of arrows. My current detector now has arrows, but I can only recall one instance where the arrows helped me figure out what was going on faster than without them.

I was traveling down one of our local "State highways" that's really just a glorified unlimited access major street thru several local smaller towns. This street has been under construction for over 6 years. There are parts of it that are basically done, but they leave the all the lower construction speed limit signs up along the whole mess whether they are truly necessary or not.

Well I was traveling east and the R7 picks up a 34.7 signal in front of me. I slow down and pass by the cop traveling the opposite direction, but the arrow didn't flip and it still points forward but the signal shifted from like 34.706 to 34.722 and I noticed on the side screen that a weaker 34.7 signal was showing in the "bogey box". About 30 seconds later, a second LEO passes going the opposite way and the arrow flips to show that was the newer locked on signal.

Now, the R3 wouldn't have missed either cop, and I'm not dumb enough to drop the hammer with any detector screaming full alert, but the R7 did provide that little bit of extra info to help me assess the situation more quickly.

That's about the only real use I've run into for arrows. If Uniden can clean up the arrow transitions a bit it'll likely be a better tool for determining if the threat is on your road or you're picking up an off axis alert from a street or two over.

If city mode would allow me to adjust Ka band sensitivity, that would be perfect for setting up "profiles" for me. I could run an adjusted city on in town roads to bump down those Ka off-my-street grabs a bit, advanced for high speed urban highways, and full on highway for the long run out-in-the-boonies highways.
 
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Bloovy One

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If you learn to interpret how the detector operates and alerts, you can get a pretty good idea of where the officer is regardless of arrows.

The question is, how long does it take to determine where the signal is coming from in various situations? Arrows are like using both ears to locate a sound instead of just one. :)
 

rut

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Without Any Personal attacks meant, I feel like My drivers needs may meet up to others as well. Nothing personal meant-
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Oh BTW If Im not mistaken the 360C is on the M6 platform, as its been commented on several occasions, just quoting others here.
360c is a m4 360ci is a m6 I believe
 

KnightHawk

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Everyone should be sensitive because it creates complacency. Constantly hearing a beeping that is not real 99% of the time (in my experience / location with K-band) makes it extremely hard to take it seriously for a real alert.

I can deal with it and have ways to mitigate it like you said with Quiet Ride and reducing sensitivity, but my point is that they can do it much better on the older R3, why not their new flagship R7? [b/] I also used a V1 since 2000 and it was almost unusable with X band on. And you are right that today they are super silent in comparison.
This question is a no brainer. You can't compare apples and oranges. An extra horn makes a difference in terms of sensitivity and number of alerts. Back then, there were no BSM's and now time has change. Any gadget that emits radar signals will alert any detector depending on frequency. You already have K block that Uniden gave us. You can only do so much as blocking or filtering the source specially in K band BSM's because they use different frequencies and the biggest problem here is that some BSM frequencies are getting close to true radar frequencies. There will be no 100% solution for K band false from now on. You've used the V1 for a long time. Have you ever noticed that the performance of the V1 has deteriorated with K band sensitivity? Have you ever thought why? MV put more filtering to it. I Have 2 V1's now. The current version and my 1.813. My 813 beats the hell out of the current version with K band sensitivity but it has tripled the amount of false alert in K band. The R7 will alert you with the rear antenna and not the front from vehicle going the opposite direction because BSM radars are located at the rear at an angle of maybe 45%(just guessing) and obviously you will get a front alert when you going the same direction with the vehicle in front of you. I know you stated you understand there are 2 antenna's but I don't think you fully understand. What if you had 2 R3's facing opposite direction? Will it give you the same number of falls alert than the R7 or will it give you the same number of false alert with just one R3? Most features for the R3 and R7 are a lot similar except for arrows and 2 horns. I believe Uniden has given us a lot of options with R7 and R3. EVERYONE here has it's OWN preference. There will be a lot of fine tuning that suits your need and preference. In the end, you can keep filtering K band and risk a citation in K band country or loss performance in K band sensitivity. Where I live and work, K band is highly used. I set my Q ride to 50 mph - Q ride keeps it quiet by muting the K band alert but also gives you good situational awareness with a muted 2 beeps. My K band sensitivity is at at 100%. One more thing. Having a radar detector WILL NOT be a guarantee that you will be free from having any moving violations/speeding.

Sorry guys, don't why the letters got bold.

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I cant help but laugh at the comments about Uniden products and how the rear antenna needs to be tuned down being to sensitive etc... The Escort 360 has no problems with falsing using their system and picks up from the perfect distance to me. Who cares what goes on in the next county? To me a mile detection is long enough to comfortably slow down to the PSL. Anything further is just an annoyance to me and my co riders. Plus you get to thinking it may be false alerts, BSM, etc. and quit taking your warnings seriously. I just don't get all the hype about 10 mile detection capabilities with that comes that many more false alerts as well. Who wants that? Not me. So give me the Escort 360 and ZR5s and I'm a happy matched brand terror on the roads. (Yes I own an R3-Use only the KA band when I do use it, in wifes car, maybe new Notch filter may help-band aide fix- )
All you have to do with the R7 is bring the K band sensitivity down to match the escort 360 or Pro M. Problem solve. Problem is, a lot of people complain about K band falses with the R7 out of the box. Had the same experience with the V1 the first time I used it. This is what I don't understand. These are people who needs education specially newbies that don't understand how radar detector works and don't have "enough" understanding on how radar works. They don't need to be an expert to know all of these but you need a "lot" of experience using a radar detector, a radar gun and how radar works. Bottom line, I would prefer to have more options than having less if I need to increase or decrease K band sensitivity because everyone of us has different situations in every location. This is where the R7 shines. The R7 can go down to the level of K band sensitivity with the 360 or Pro M but not the other way around when you know how to fine tune the R7. I will be dishing out the V1 soon and replace it with the R7. Current R3/V1 user now. To really get the full benefits of the R7, you have to be a "very experienced" radar detector user - a user who has tried every radar detector out there, knows the strengths and weakness of police radar and knows about how radar works. The people who will only complain about the R7 in terms of increase K band false alerts are inexperienced users.
 
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Heywood

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Dialing down to match the Pro-M or Escorts?

A good idea on paper, and could possibly quiet down the R7/R3 to K band signals from door openers and speed signs, but when you run up against BSM’s, you pretty much have to kill the Unidens to get them to the level of the Pro-M’s and the Remote Escort against BSM ‘s.

It’s one thing to have all that range when you need it. It’s another when your crawling in traffic where you can’t speed anyways and surrounded by BSM emitters.

How does a normal consumer do that reliably? It can be done, but how many actually take the time to try it?

The R7 now has a much broader off axis detection that rivals the Pro-M. The R3 is in the same league as the R-Ex for off axis. That’s another consideration.

Again, we here on RDF are not the target market. Most of the people that buy detectors just slap it in their windshields and drive. They’re not tinkering. They’re not looking at frequencies. They can barely grasp the concept of K band coming from Speed signs and even less about door openers.

They do however get slapped in the face when they’re travelling next to a common BSM problem child for miles and it won’t shut up no matter how many times they mute it or try to lock it out.

Unfortunately the inexperienced users are 99% of the target market. Whatever’s the most expensive on the shelves at BestBuy must be the best.

It’s getting better gathering information from
The internet, but that’s very hit and miss. Look at that web site that used @Vortex screen shot. Would any of us agree that those would be the 5 best detectors on the market???
 
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