D.I.Y ALP Cables, connectors, fixes

Saussie

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After much prepping and finally testing with power on, I can confirm that MY Rx head wire colors DO match the wire colors of the Connection Cable (cable that plugs into CPU) that @Saussie shows above. THEY MAY NOT MATCH EXTENSION CABLE COLORS, as BRD warned above. My system is working on the bench for Parking mode and does go into Defense mode.
Grey = Gnd
Yel = signal
Grn = +12V
White= signal (to yellow?)
Blue = signal (to red/brown?)
Red/Brn = Gnd (same as Grey Gnd)
------------- do not blame me if your colors/signals don't match this, it's FYI on my system only ------
If you can elaborate on this in respect to the pin locations allocated to which colour, that would be good. Pic or diagram would enhance your post and make it a bit more understandable E.g we don't know what side of the connector you're looking at it from (top or bottom as it would be reversed).
Appreciate the input though!
 

Saussie

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This isn't really anything to consider as a brag. More of a test, and no way a comparison to an original cable.
Diy high temp cable has had 2000km pushed through it.
Questions now that come to mind are how long will it actually last?
Will it need further maintenance?
I'd say possibly it might, but when..... I've no idea.
Running alongside an original though, no issues.
 
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200V

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That's my plan. I'm traveling a lot, so I've not had the time or access to update my original drawing.
 

200V

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i THINK this is correct, but I'm not responsible if your system is different:. Photo is courtesy of @Saussie .
ALP CPU2 schematic of ports updated.jpg
 
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mb300sd

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Love it. Ordered a pile of connectors from DigiKey, now I can get rid of the mess of bundled cables under my dash and hood.
 

Saussie

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i THINK this is correct, but I'm not responsible if your system is different:. Photo is courtesy of @Saussie .
View attachment 135352
MISSING grey in the middle there, but I'm only saying this for those who loose count often.
Good diagram you're getting together there.
Don't ask me to sketch anything. I can't draw a straight line to save my life. I admire artists. Especially pencil portrait types. I got no idea how they make a photo finish on paper with pencil. Insane skills.
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Love it. Ordered a pile of connectors from DigiKey, now I can get rid of the mess of bundled cables under my dash and hood.
Yeah, this thread helps trimming the cable. I still think you can't beat a factory finished one. But diy is doable. I'm just not 100% about the shielding on this. Maybe an expert can chip in. I'm unsure of its importance. Unsure where or if it's earthed (I'd presume it's earthed on the chassis wire, but where in the cable I'm not sure). Few of the deeper technicalities could be researched a bit more. I foil taped my cable in an attempt to block interference but unsure if it matters. There's alot of electrical stuff going on in the engine bay, so I thought something is better than nothing. As I said earlier, my version works, but whether it will need maintaining along the way is something to consider as well as how long it lasts. It got the system tested and up and running. I can hunt down original cables as I go and eventually diy ones can be thrashed out or used as backups. Or used as summer cables as I made a high temp version. Least I'm part of the AL P gang now.
 
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Abarth695

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Hi guys
Is the wiring any different for the original to head cable that went directly into the back of the controller
I need to make a female 6 pin from the extension cable to go into back of a new controller so only short cable within car but this is for the original heads and cable not the revised heads with the new smaller type locking system if that makes sense
 

Radario

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Hi guys
Is the wiring any different for the original to head cable that went directly into the back of the controller
I need to make a female 6 pin from the extension cable to go into back of a new controller so only short cable within car but this is for the original heads and cable not the revised heads with the new smaller type locking system if that makes sense
I'm about to make a similar (same?) cable due to a customer burning the original cable that has MALE Mini-DIN to an RJ12.

The difference in format is that the NEW design (twist and lock) sensor cable connections feature a 5 pin circumference format with a center pin (gray). This is the diagram provided on this forum.

The old design (Mini DIN) has 6 pins around most of the circumference with a rectangular plastic "key" at the bottom.

It can be (can it be?) assumed that Pin "1" is RED at the bottom right when looking at the pins. Pin "6" would be Grey.

The flat 6 core cable you use may have a different color sequence from left to right. You need to write down the colors left to right looking at the RJ12 with the lock pin underneath. Left to Right is "1" to "6". You then write down a Color Substitution Code..

Based on the flat telephone cable I am using (interior it's OK) the color substitution code is:

RED = Blue; Blue = Yellow; White = Green
Green = Red; Yellow = Black; Grey = White

Best to draw a DIN diagram with the ALP colors crossed out and the actual cable colors beneath.

Hope this helps.
 

Blasirl

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I'm about to make a similar (same?) cable due to a customer burning the original cable that has MALE Mini-DIN to an RJ12.

The difference in format is that the NEW design (twist and lock) sensor cable connections feature a 5 pin circumference format with a center pin (gray). This is the diagram provided on this forum.

The old design (Mini DIN) has 6 pins around most of the circumference with a rectangular plastic "key" at the bottom.

It can be (can it be?) assumed that Pin "1" is RED at the bottom right when looking at the pins. Pin "6" would be Grey.

The flat 6 core cable you use may have a different color sequence from left to right. You need to write down the colors left to right looking at the RJ12 with the lock pin underneath. Left to Right is "1" to "6". You then write down a Color Substitution Code..

Based on the flat telephone cable I am using (interior it's OK) the color substitution code is:

RED = Blue; Blue = Yellow; White = Green
Green = Red; Yellow = Black; Grey = White

Best to draw a DIN diagram with the ALP colors crossed out and the actual cable colors beneath.

Hope this helps.
Would you fix the link please?
 

licwid

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What type of RGB LED should be used? Mine came off in the install and is now lost. The cables were backordered when I checked, and it hurts a bit to pay $15 for it when I can get 100 LEDs for $5
 

Saussie

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What type of RGB LED should be used? Mine came off in the install and is now lost. The cables were backordered when I checked, and it hurts a bit to pay $15 for it when I can get 100 LEDs for $5
Couldn't say. A few measurements need to be taken to check forward voltage ect. I'm not going to call it and say such n such just in case. Someone here will figure it out tho no doubt. I'm sure there's something out there, but unless tried and tested, I'm not calling it out (just in case) at this stage.
 
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gsx1200

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Does anyone know the connection points for connector C?
 

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Maz3

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Does anyone know the connection points for connector C?
I can tell you some, and that may be all that are actually used, but I have nothing to support that, other than I've accounted for everything from a user control perspective.

Absolutely sure on the following as I determined them myself, and then used them for remote switches to replicate the control set. I recorded the pin numbers so my memory is not involved 🤣

Pin 3 = GND
Pin 5 = +5 VDC
Pin 6 = Menu Button (Using pins 3 & 6)
Pin 8 = PWR Button (Using pins 3 & 8)

If you use these for remote switches the control set still has to be connected as the ALP recognizes if it's not there and won't stay powered up. If your interested in this let me know and I'll show you the inexpensive part you require to make it happen - very easy to do.

My memory is that 12 VDC is there too, but I don't remember which pin, and could be entirely wrong. A multimeter can confirm that readily though.
 
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SquirrelMaster

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Does anyone know the connection points for connector C?


This is old but still viable enough.


Also port G for gps has power, ground, and RS232 data
 

Maz3

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Has anyone come across an aftermarket tee connector compatible with the ALP sensor cables, like the one used to share one sensor cable with two sensors?

I've searched the web extensively without success.
 

Saussie

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This is old but still viable enough.


Also port G for gps has power, ground, and RS232 data
Yo Squirrelmaster!
Can I have your permission (if it was you) to add your thread with the dissected controller into the controller section here in first post for all to have easy access?
Think it was you who shot pic of an open controller. Correct me if I'm wrong. Cheers.
 

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