D.I.Y ALP Cables, connectors, fixes

[Saussie]

Multimeter tells me this for the CPU to sensor cable...

(Also now pictured in the 1st post)
NOTE - RED actually looks either dark red or brown.
Cable is 26AWG (printed on it in the pic)

 

[200V]

I just got a bag of RJ12 male connectors. (No shields, just plastic). Let me know if you want 20 of them.
WARNING - they make RJ12/45 connectors for stranded OR solid wires - make sure your connector matches your wire/cable type!

 

[Saussie]

I'm not in USA bro. Probably cost you more in shipping than they're worth.

I can't tell on this cable type but cable looks unshielded. Can't see any metal cable insulation through the clear plastic but could be wrong.
I've been looking at outdoor cat6 cable for higher heat resistance and weatherproofing, as well as it being shielded. Then cover it in the engine bay with basalt fibre sleeving or something similar for added heat resistance.

Post automatically merged: Oct 4, 2019

@200V Are you using solid or braided? I'd say the original is braided as it's got flex in it, and depending on the car, could be a fair bit of weaving around to position it.

 

[Saussie]

Constantly getting the ooops message when trying to edit my first post. I'll attempt to update and correct the info asap. Unsure what's going on there atm. Have mentioned it to the mods as well. Trying to organise the thread but rdf not letting me edit. Can't seem to get around it, although yesterday it let me add pictures. Can't edit the text tho or add more pics.
I seem to be able to edit everything else after it though.

 

[200V]

I'm not in USA bro. Probably cost you more in shipping than they're worth.

I can't tell on this cable type but cable looks unshielded. Can't see any metal cable insulation through the clear plastic but could be wrong.
I've been looking at outdoor cat6 cable for higher heat resistance and weatherproofing, as well as it being shielded. Then cover it in the engine bay with basalt fibre sleeving or something similar for added heat resistance.

Post automatically merged: Oct 4, 2019

@200V Are you using solid copper cable or braided? I'd say the original is braided as it's got flex in it, and depending on the car, could be a fair bit of weaving around to position it.

My cat6 is stranded/braided, and my rj12 cons are for braided.

 

[Saussie]

I'm finding cable choice tough here when thinking about it and not cutting corners. Mainly due to my region. Few people are saying use ethernet cat6. I personally don't think this is good. Maybe for others yes. My reasons are heat. If you live in a place where the weather is hot, it will be an issue. Say ambient temp is 45 Celcius, then add underbonnet/hood engine heat, let's say a turbocharged car for a more extreme example. Under the hood you might even hit temps of 150+ Celcius if your driving it hard (coolant heat can hit 120C easy and that alone is likely spread from every area possible, then consider the exhaust). Have to remember on hot days once you pull up and stop, there's no air coming in through the grill (stationary) but the heat is there for a while after while the engine cools. Also take into account being stopped at the lights after a hard drive and add the heat from the car infronts exhaust pipe if you're close on his tail for example and things like that.
Normal computer ethernet cable in my opinion risks fire in these circumstances once the insulation breaks down, as it's not designed for this extreme "office use" temperature. So I believe there's a risk here, unless you're driving around in the snow or something. I'd be checking the cable temp limitations. Personally I'd avoid using it, but what you do to your car is your business in your region. A lighter worse case scenario is the cable melting and shorting your sensor or CPU which is expensive.
I aim to replicate the original cable, so pay close attention to the specs of what's written on it. Some people may get away with a cheap mod, but when it comes to heat, I prefer to not skimp and corner cut. That said, the ALP cable is rated to 80C tops, the baseline cold wouldn't apply to me. I'd be sleeving it to be honest, due to where I'm at, for a little more heat resistance. Running the cable round the engine bay edges, and low as possible is probably not a bad idea in any setup.
I'm welcome to users thoughts here (as always) about cable and engine temps. I should add there is oil and coolant and some cable jackets are made to resist this. Sleeving should also be suited and resistant to car fluids and heat for best results. The more I look into this the more technical it gets if you properly take into account the variables associated, and you're sensible and serious about it. That said, once someone figures out suppliers, costs and quality, I'm confident a proper diy cable is possible. Like I said, depending on the region, a cheap setup may be sufficient. This will vary on the user. Sure, you might get away with ethernet cable for a while, but seems like it will be only a matter of time before it fails earlier than expected. On the flip side, I think it's possible to use a higher heat resistance cable than ALP use, but might cost a bit more or the same as an original. This isn't a bad thing though at all. THIS type of ethernet cable I'd consider - Product details
For example - It's oil & chemical resistant, heat resistant to 150C - 180C, flame retardant and self extinguishing. Much better choice and rating for the application in a hot region. I'd much prefer to go with this at a higher cost than the ALP original to be honest.

Post automatically merged: Oct 8, 2019

Here's an example. Be aware this guy is measuring temp with the bonnet/hood open on a car motor without the engine running, and he gets a reading of 186 Fahrenheit which is 85.5C off the manifold. Car doesn't look like a performance vehicle to me.

Would not be hard to fry an egg on the hood of a car in summer where I am. There have been people who've slow cooked steak in an aluminium tray on their dashboard. Surface temperatures alone are high in the summer season.
Pic of people last summer slow cooking inside their car. Surface temp reached a little over 88C. Imagine the sensor head roasting in a car park.

Post automatically merged: Oct 8, 2019

After extensive searching, I think cost effectively, a cable could be made with a heat rating of 190C.
Possibly 2 cables for the price paid for one original, with a little change leftover for extras. Not sure just yet but looking possible as I number crunch temp ratings vs price. The big question.... Will it work and operate as normal?

Post automatically merged: Oct 8, 2019

I also found the data sheet for the Amphenol 6pin.

Specs say this connector at best is rated 80-105C. Changing connector might be of advantage. Unfortunately doing this to the sensors female connector would devalue it, if sold again second hand, as someone might hate having to go through the hassle of modding it back to normal and working out the wiring if they're not cluey or practical. Modding it back before resale just doesn't make it look great either and weakens the original manufacture. Plug in and play is the order of the day for most people. Tinkering is for the few interested.
Doubt modding the connector to something else with a higher heat resistance on the sensor end is a good idea anyway, as it's going to get the most airflow front on. I don't mind improving on things, but going to massive lengths butchering the system is far fetched. I think modding the CPU to sensor cable that will sit in the engine bay and take the beating, to make it more heat resistant is not a bad move if attempting to make the cable yourself for tropical or desert climates. As mentioned, outside USA the cable is harder to obtain. I'd bank with the heat cycling taken in its lifespan, it would be the first thing to fail, or second to the sensor possibly.
Sorry for typing so much and putting my thoughts down on the thread but the info is here for discussion. Best to point things out so people can consider and weigh up the possibilities when considering this. I'm always open to people chipping in and adding ideas too, so don't be shy.

 

[Saussie]

OK. Pulled the trigger. Ordered the Amphenol connectors and selected my cable. Going for a heat rating now of 200C for heavy duty custom cable. Managed to get the 26awg braided in 6 different colours (I found this difficult but seemed to be looking in all the wrong places. Nearly went with solid cable but there will be movement, so felt it's not the right application for the job).
Now I'm after rj connectors BUT, I want a cable relief boot for it. Rj45 boots everywhere but anything under this seems difficult. Any tips? I could just heat shrink it but I actually would prefer it to look decent and not like a backyard job.
Have seen the modular connector with the boot but they are rare. I don't feel like paying a premium and $100 shipping for something that costs $0.50.
Any suggestions?
Aiming to make 2 X 200Celsius rated cables for around the price of what it would cost me for one original, but customised for high temp engine bay use.
If it costs a bit more, I don't care. My aim or direction is now steering towards building a higher temp rated cable. May as well try and go the extra mile if going to the effort.

 

[Saussie]

Double confirming the Amphenol connectors mentioned. They are spot on correct. I'll update the first post when I can get it to save. Having issues with it at the moment but all good.

 

[200V]

The RJ12 conns are on ebay . For 100 each, about $10 including ship to US, not sure about Aus.

 

[Saussie]

There's 2 types. The original cable has a long body rj12. A little harder to obtain in clear locally. Shielded is considerably more expensive but long body in this version is available locally, and I've got some boots/cable strain relief off an old ethernet connector I could put to use and recycle. Long or short don't matter. Longer one gives the boot something to hold onto, which is why alp used it I gather.
I'm not 100% sure the cable is shielded. It has shielding in or around it but don't think it's earthed. The whole system would be though, at the fuse box back, as every car is earthed anyway on the negative to the body of the car, so I doubt it matters. A sleeve may assist in reducing emf from other car electric systems, but most car wiring isn't covered or shielded anyway. Probably overkill, but temperature resistance of 200C on the cable in the engine bay is the thing I'm going for by making one. The cable I'm using is braided and has silicon insulation for heat resistance and is quite flexible which is good to work with and weeve around things and takes movement and vibration a little more, should it need it.
Might try solid core another time.
Any experts care to chip in on this for arguments sake?

 

[Saussie]

For the record. I'd estimate the rj12 isn't shielded. Comparison pic here, and as you can see the shielding would be sticking out further than the strain relief boot.
I couldn't get a non shielded one locally. Actually struggled to find any long body rj12 like this one. Plenty of the shorter ones though.
Non shielded long body style are available on Ali express in a 10 pack for about $12 if you're outside USA, but takes a few weeks for shipping.
Did find them listed under Rj11 at RS components. I couldn't be bothered waiting but planning in advance you'll get them cheap.

 

[Saussie]

I need a close up picture of the extension cable rj45 that pugs into the cpu, to get the color, and order, of the wires. Or if someone can write down the order, color of the wires, that would be fantastic. Thx all!

Post automatically merged: Aug 1, 2019

Here are photos of the ALP GPS wires and RJ45 connector:
View attachment 126996 View attachment 126997



Here are the wires coming from a RX head (connector was cut off), with marking on the back of teh Rx with e26 and sn P58xxx. Appears to be the same colore wires as the earlier post of the Extension Cable (?).
Need to figure out what wire goes to what location on the RJ45 that plugs into the CPU - if anyone can photograph and Extension cable RJ45 !!
View attachment 126998

Hey! The editing issue has been fixed for the first post. I've added the gps pics you posted to the section. Can you give me a colour order for one of the pics in text? I'll add it to the section also. Cheers for contributing!

 

[BestRadarDetectors]

Please just be careful and note that overtime we might use different cable suppliers and cable colors will not always be the same so please dont use this thread as a guarantee how to re-pin cables.

 

[Saussie]

Please just be careful and note that overtime we might use different cable suppliers and cable colors will not always be the same so please dont use this thread as a guarantee how to re-pin cables.

I will make this top post on the original to notify all.

 

[thanks]

Please just be careful and note that overtime we might use different cable suppliers and cable colors will not always be the same so please dont use this thread as a guarantee how to re-pin cables.

Agree! Best to document the connector to connector correlation!

 

[Saussie]

Agree! Best to document the connector to connector correlation!

Yes and No,
If you checkout TX sensor wiring link in the first post, you will see someone repaired theirs. The join between wires did not match colours.
The sensor itself may be redesigned in future though, or the circuit board the wires attach to may change.
Depends what a user does to their wires, but I get what you are saying.
Always 2 ends to a cable. I've no idea, at the sensor end, what's going on, as I have not opened and examined one. I'm sure whoever does will be popular for doing so and posting pics haha!

Post automatically merged: Oct 30, 2019

Please just be careful and note that overtime we might use different cable suppliers and cable colors will not always be the same so please dont use this thread as a guarantee how to re-pin cables.

ALP should redesign their wiring. I think it should be a 3 piece setup. Interior cable, exterior cable and then the sensor and cable. Interior could be rated at 80C as it's under air con e.c.t in the ambient temperature inside of the car.
Once it's reached the engine bay, depending on where you live (and this could be a simple optional add on or customer request), I think that section of cable should be rated for higher temps, as well as the sensor cable.
If you see my engine bay youtube video I posted, temps exceed way beyond 80C, and add a tropical climate to this, the cable is taking a beating. IF ALP made an optional high temp cable, that would be cool and doubt it would cost extra.
I did start this thread attempting to just make a cable, and it's gone well beyond that. After I really started examining things, my aim became to make a cable, but for high temperature that exceeds the original. I won't be doing the cable attached to the sensor though, as I'm not going to dismantle a working device.
Not having a go at you either, but I am saying I'd buy one if there was one.

 

[BestRadarDetectors]

Yes and No,
If you checkout TX sensor wiring link in the first post, you will see someone repaired theirs. The join between wires did not match colours.
The sensor itself may be redesigned in future though, or the circuit board the wires attach to may change.
Depends what a user does to their wires, but I get what you are saying.
Always 2 ends to a cable. I've no idea, at the sensor end, what's going on, as I have not opened and examined one. I'm sure whoever does will be popular for doing so and posting pics haha!

The wiring does not change but the colors will vary. Its best to start with for example a sensor cable to show Pin 1 of RJ45 goes to which Pin "X" on the Sensor Connector. That will not change but the colors will change depending on who supplied the cables.

 

[Saussie]

Just to add... I googled "Turbo Temperature". First post came up saying - The turbines in most current production turbochargers are suitable for continuous operation at an exhaust gas inlet temperature of 1750°F (950°C).
Not all cars are turbo, or have it at the front for example, but that's a hell of alot of heat for a cable rated (printed on it) 80C.
Not all turbo cars might reach that kind of temp either. Still think it would be a bit more than 80C though.

Post automatically merged: Oct 30, 2019

The wiring does not change but the colors will vary. Its best to start with for example a sensor cable to show Pin 1 of RJ45 goes to which Pin "X" on the Sensor Connector. That will not change but the colors will change depending on who supplied the cables.

That's exactly what I posted too. Good to know. Note to others getting involved...

 

[Saussie]

OK, so I finished making cables. Unfortunately I could only use one of them, as a very small blob of solder slid off the iron and decided the best place for it to land was between the Amphenol pins where the wires are inserted for soldering. Looking like no chance of saving it and didn't want to risk the pins shorting each other. Unfortunate as it was the very last thing before completing it. Didn't have a spare, so had to abandon it for now.
That said, running an original cable alongside a home made high temp cable, no errors, passing self test on startup.
Personally, the Amphenol connector is tight working space. Would be better if it suits, to find a different and slightly bigger and better wire spaced connector to work with. If you're OK with a soldering iron it's doable if you're careful. Just don't use that little bit too much solder like I did, and/or have it roll off and splatter when moving. Does not take much at all to fill the gaps!

 

[200V]

After much prepping and finally testing with power on, I can confirm that MY Rx head wire colors DO match the wire colors of the Connection Cable (cable that plugs into CPU) that @Saussie shows above. THEY MAY NOT MATCH EXTENSION CABLE COLORS, as BRD warned above. My system is working on the bench for Parking mode and does go into Defense mode.
Grey = Gnd
Yel = signal
Grn = +12V
White= signal (to yellow?)
Blue = signal (to red/brown?)
Red/Brn = Gnd (same as Grey Gnd)
------------- do not blame me if your colors/signals don't match this, it's FYI on my system only ------