D.I.Y ALP Cables, connectors, fixes

Saussie

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NOTE TO USERS :
BRD STATES - Please just be careful and note that overtime we (AL Priority) might use different cable suppliers and cable colors will not always be the same so please dont use this thread as a guarantee how to re-pin cables.

I (Saussie) REINFORCE THE ABOVE STATEMENT.
ALWAYS CHECK YOUR CABLE TYPE BEFORE ANY REFERENCE! USE A MULTIMETER TO FOLLOW THE WIRE PATH TO BE SURE, AS COLOURS MAY CHANGE BETWEEN MODELS. AS STATED, IT IS A WORK IN PROGRESS BASED ON USERS EXPERIENCE AND OBSERVATIONS. WHAT APPLIES TO ONE PERSON'S SETUP, MAY NOT APPLY TO ANOTHER'S. DOUBLE CHECK AND MAKE SURE.
AL PRIORITY ISN'T A LOW COST ITEM. MAKE SURE YOU KNOW WHAT YOUR DOING BEFORE ATTEMPTING ANYTHING. NO RESPONSIBILITY WILL BE TAKEN FOR ANY MAINTENANCE CONDUCTED BY USING THIS THREAD. IT IS A FEELER TO SHED SOME LIGHT ON THE SYSTEMS WORKINGS.
YOU ATTEMPT ALL MAINTENANCE AT YOUR OWN RISK. SO DON'T BE A DICK ABOUT IT (Basically) !


THIS IS CURRENTLY A WORK IN PROGRESS. UPDATING AS THE THREAD EVOLVES! DO NOT TAKE THIS LIST AS PERFECT AT THIS STAGE! FEEL FREE TO ADD PICTURES AND INFO IF YOU CAN SO WE CAN GATHER IT ALL TOGETHER.
Cheers!

----------------------------------------
Hi All,

Cables, fixes or repairs to replace a broken/intermittent functioning cable, or add the extra length needed for a rear sensor.
Might save someone time waiting for shipping, or be convenient if the cars already apart during an install, and you've not enough length to finish the install on the day, or whatever other reason.
Correct me if I'm wrong (and I'm happy if we get this right together), by rounding up the knowledge and contributions of users, we could knock up a d.i.y cable/fix thread.

General tools I think we need to cover repairs...

1.RJ45, RJ10, RJ12 Crimper
2.Multimeter
3.Heatshrink or some decent electrical tape.
4.Solder and Soldering Iron.
5. High temp resistant cable sleeving (depending on your region)
6. Aluminium foil tape for shielding

This shouldn't end up as a big thread but figured it could be handy.
We could also compare the cost of a d.i.y to an original pre made. Possible improvements or enhancements built on people's ideas, as well as some experimentation and experiences (within reason).
Some may say why not just buy one?
I'd agree, first and foremost. Sometimes, they don't seem common to find or easy to buy straight out online outside of USA. They may be unavailable to some users in certain regions. It may be worthwhile to make your own, LONG AS YOU HAVE A CLUE AS TO WHAT YOU ARE DOING. IF NOT, JUST BUY ONE NEW. IT'S EASIER!

In some instances, there's a chance someone has broken theirs, and just wants to snip the cable and add a new connector to repair it.

Unsure what scenario may unfold, but let's discuss it.
If it's already been done on rdforum, please point this out. I can drag the scattered info into here for ease of locating.

POWER CABLE/HARNESS
-------------------------------------------
P4 MB Connector
(Cut one off an old computer power supply)
Wiring colours that exit from the rear of the connector are shown in the picture.
Recommended wire gauge????
Fuse tap with 2A add on or line in on a vacant spot.

Make sure the position you choose isn't constant on, or you'll probably end up with a slow drain and a flat battery.

Some add a fuse double fuse holders, might be too big and bulky for a neat fit. Be aware of the ratings, some might only take 10amp a slot. Have seen 30amp plus 20amp but depends where you're tapping into. If the original fuse is E.G 15amp DON'T add a 2amp so you're pulling 17amp. Do not exceed the existing amperage of the fuse in the slot!
Also consider the older glass fuse style holders. With a crimp connector on the end, these can fit neater in the fusebox, and help you E.G actually get the fusebox lid on, as the add a fuse can be too large or tall for some areas.

sketch-1562849009357.png


BLUETOOTH CABLE
---------------------------------

1.RJ45 (Shielded connector) X 2
(One connenector each end)
2.RJ45 crimper
3.Cable (type I'd say is 24-26awg on estimation. I'd say the wiring is uniform but don't quote this as gospel)
4.Wire colours from left to right as shown in picture.
(Orange, Brown, Blue, Yellow, Green, Red, Black, White)
_20190711_210049.JPG


STANDARD CONTROLLER
------------------------------------------
1.RJ45 (Shielded/Unshielded) X 1 Connector
2.Wire colours from RIGHT to LEFT (As shown in picture below, which is difficult to take a photo of, as the back of the connector is covered well. Rj clip side is barely visible to see the colours in this pic).
_20190711_213644.JPG


White with Orange stripe, Orange, White, Blue, Blue with white stripe, Green, White, Brown.
THIS... seems tricky as there looks to be 2 white cables.

Courtesy of the legendary master of squirrels, or if you're German, Der Eichhörnchenmeister, and not to be confused with Jagermiester. Honoured to have a tear down pic of the hifi controller here...
Screenshot_20200802-210034.jpg


Standard controller...
_20190711_224159.JPG


LED CABLE
-------------------
Shout out to Eloi for doing the RJ end fix already! Slotted his fine photography as the first picture in this section.
Led cable crimping as follows...
RJ10 (4P4C) connector.
Second pic attached is where the wire colours lead to on the Led end. Cannot see a resistor on any of the lines. No bulges behind the individual heat shrink to make it obvious. Even by feel, each leg of the LED is as even as the next.
You could probably d.i.y this cable but selecting a suitable RGB LED, may be tricky if attempting to create your own. Maybe someone can suggest something for this, as I'm not game enough to call it.
_20190711_232324.JPG

DSC_0026.JPG

In order from left to right (Red, Yellow, Blue, Green).
Zoom in on this picture to see which side of the Led is shown. Yes it matters!
_20190711_234344.JPG


GPS CABLE
--------------------
GPS cable wiring connector pictures contributed by user 200V and once again Squirrelmaster. Cheers!
ALP GPS plug.jpg

ALP GPS wires.jpg

IMG_20191030_231631.jpg

SENSOR AND SENSOR CABLE
--------------------------
1.RJ12 (Shielded or unshielded, hard to tell on an original but I'd say unshielded, however, the cable is apparently shielded, but if it's grounded, I suspect, but don't know, it's on the ground wire. I'm unsure which colour this is though). Here's a comparison for discussion.
_20191021_173512.JPG

6 pin (6P6C) connector for CPU cable end.
2. Cable is 26awg, be careful with rj selection here, as there are specific types for this gauge. Also be aware high temp rated cable has thicker insulation and may not fit as I've found out. You may have to go 24awg from the connector which will have less resistance anyway. If you choose this route, with high temp resistant cable and thick silicon insulation, be aware it may not fit the rj as it's too thick.
6 single strand cables or 6core and you're good. (heatshrink it)
3.NOW CONFIRMED (Shout out to andi for this) - Either,
Amphenol part numbers:
AU-06BFFA-LL7001
AU-06BMMA-LL7001
Depending which end you need...
(The above connectors are confirmed to fit to original ALP connectors. If they're unavailable in your region, you may wish to seek alternative 6pin weatherproof connectors to suit your needs)
4.The wiring diagram.
(Colours of the wires at the rj12 end, and how they are arranged at the circular weatherproof connector end and rj.
(Pic of an rj12 6 pin 6P6C shielded connector)
_20190714_004622.JPG


Andi's alp match for the weatherproof connector suggestion -
Amphenol part numbers:
AU-06BFFA-LL7001
AU-06BMMA-LL7001
Depending which end you need.
BE CAREFUL WHEN SOLDERING THESE!!!!!!
TOO MUCH SOLDER AND THIS CONNECTOR IS USELESS. SIMPLE MISTAKE CAN RUIN THIS CONNECTOR. IF YOU DROP A SOLDER BLOB BETWEEN THE PORT PINS, IT WILL CONNECT THE WIRES INTERNALLY. IF THIS HAPPENS, DISCONTINUE THE FIX AND GET A NEW CONNECTOR. IT'S EASY DONE. DON'T ATTEMPT TO CONTINUE TO USE THE CONNECTOR AND DEFINATLY DO NOT POWER THE SYSTEN ON!!!! DON'T RISK IT.
I ADVISE YOU USE THE SMALLEST TIP ON THE IRON YOU CAN FIND TO PREVENT THIS PROBLEM. TIN THE WIRES AND USE A VERY SMALL AMOUNT OF SOLDER AT A TIME PER WIRE. STRIP ABOUT 5MM ONLY OF INSULATION TO TRY AND PREVENT BARE WIRES TOUCHING INTERNALLY. THIS CONNECTOR IS THE TRICKY BIT OF THE OPERATION.
(TO BE HONEST, IF YOUR REPLACING THE MALE AND FEMALE ENDS, I'D ADVISE CHOOSING A BIGGER WEATHERPROOF CONNECTOR FOR EASE).

2708025-40.jpg

images (2).jpeg




(Pic of an alternative - LLT-USA M12c06 6 pin weatherproof IP67 connector that could substitute the above, but unconfirmed compatibility with and ALP original.)
images (1).jpeg

Original ALP Cable
View attachment 124854
sketch-1570081832694.png

sketch-1570081453179.png

NOTE - RED actually looks either dark red or brown.
Get decent crimper. Cheap ones are crap and most likely won't crimp evenly.
Get a pile of connectors and check/practice prior to going for it, and examine the outcome. Check the connections with a multimeter to be sure.
-------------------------------------------
TX SENSOR CABLE
--------------------------------
For now, refer to this thread... - > TX sensor wiring
Attempting to gain further info at this stage. If that's not enough info for users in meantime, we'll need to update this bit in future.
Once again, this area is for someone else to donate the info. I've no experience with Dragon eye and hope it stays that way. For those that encounter it and have to run a TX head, their experience can count in this section.

RADAR CABLE
-------------------------
Another section here for a net radar or RCM user to possibly contribute. I'd personally run a portable, so no experience with these devices from me. I'll leave this contribution to a fellow user with experience in this area. Happy to add the info to the section if donated, for the benefit of others when it arrives.
----------------------------------------------
-----------------------------------------
Cable insulation for your engine bay.
-----------------------------------------
HIGH TEMP BASALT FIBRE SLEEVING :)
This protective sleeve has been woven from extruded volcanic rock and is the ultimate in cable protection! It will handle temperatures up to 650°C. It is also quite strong and abrasion resistant.
OR....
If you want to save a buck and go for something around 260C, have a look at Hellermantyton Hellaglass fibreglass sleeving. Used on things like Halogen lighting cable as an insulator. My other tip as both can be expensive, buy a smaller size like 4mm in bulk. Run 3 cables through each then heatshrink over the 2 lots combined.
My example is cable rated to 200C. Could heatshrink and/or just sleeve it with 260C fibreglass sleeve then heatshrink over it if you're after thermal protection.

---------------------------------------------
If you needed to repair a rear sensor, you may want to d.i.y the full length if it's a rear. You could eliminate the connector all together, solder it, and run cable from sensor to rj12 at the CPU.
For fronts, it might be easier to poke bare cable through the cars firewall with a smaller drilled hole, and then crimp the rj12 at the dash end as some have done.
BE AWARE! SOME CARS MAY ALREADY HAVE A FLANGE OR RUBBER HOLE COVER IN THE FIREWALL! ONLY DRILL IF YOU HAVE TO! EXAMINE THE FIREWALL CAREFULLY FIRST! IT MAY ALREADY HAVE ACCESS. ALTERNATIVELY, I RECOMMEND VISITING A JUNKYARD OR WRECKERS AND SEE IF THEY WILL LET YOU DRILL HOLES IN THEIR CARS FIRST! YOU CAN EXAMINE, MAKE MISTAKES, VIEW CABLE INLETS/OUTLETS. WELL WORTH IT!
PRACTICE MAKES PERFECT. :)
Custom cables might make it easier and cheaper (slightly).
I know what some maybe thinking.... Spend thousands on a setup and skimp on the cable to shave a buck. This isn't really for brand new setups. So be smart about it, and don't go voiding your warranty.

The thread's good for general cable and connector repairs e.c.t. more aimed at out of warranty set ups or second hand classified buys, and people missing a few bits and pieces when buying used broken up and parted out systems. Helps to test and get things up and running before fully committing, assist with unfortunate repairs and maintenance due to unforeseen circumstances.

Feel free to submit info for the cause.

Hi I'm a squirrel (said the master of. :)) Thanks for letting me edit this portion.
 
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doubledge

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It’s a great idea. Thank you for starting the thread.
 

Saussie

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It’s a great idea. Thank you for starting the thread.
No problem man! Thought it might be missing from the section.
Happy to see people benefit from the info and maybe save a buck, or be able to do a custom cable job or repair for themselves if convenient, or get an out of warranty or parted out second hand kit up and running.
We'll need to get this all correct first though.
I'm not bothered as long as the info is correct and useful.
 
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Flonase

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Love gathering this info, even though I’d always buy the pre-made cables if possible. I’ve been impressed with the quality of the ones I’ve purchased...
 

Saussie

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Weatherproof connector seems to be the expensive bit and the high temp sleeving if required.
 
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andi

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@Saussie
The original ALP weatherproofed connector is an Amphenol LTW. For example, the Connector from the ALP-Sensor is labeled with "ALTW".
A few days before, a bought 2 connectors, female and male with this Amphenol part numbers:
AU-06BFFA-LL7001
AU-06BMMA-LL7001

Both connected perfect to the original ALP Counterparts.
I want to install a sensor in the luggage compartment door, and there is almost no place to get one of the ALP Connectors through the bellows. But the cable alone should go through, afterwards i can solder the amphenol connector to the cable. I bought a 6-pin LiYY-Cable to build my own Extension cable.
 
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Saussie

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@Saussie
The original ALP weatherproofed connector is an Amphenol LTW. For example, the Connector from the ALP-Sensor is labeled with "ALTW".
A few days before, a bought 2 connectors, female and male with this Amphenol part numbers:
AU-06BFFA-LL7001
AU-06BMMA-LL7001

Both connected perfect to the original ALP Counterparts.
I want to install a sensor in the luggage compartment door, and there is almost no place to get one of the ALP Connectors through the bellows. But the cable alone should go through, afterwards i can solder the amphenol connector to the cable. I bought a 6-pin LiYY-Cable to build my own Extension cable.
Excellent, I did see the amphenol connectors online but wasn't sure. Fully appreciate your confirmation for all. After looking that up, it's availability is more abundant.
I've not confirmed the above ones I've shown connect to an original, but posted them as they look like the connector. So it's good you posted with confirmation.

I did a little more research on my selection and found some good info people may appreciate.
You can get the alternative connectors for free apparently! Have seen 1 Chinease manufacturer that offers free samples. The catch is you have to pay for shipping, but thought that wasn't too bad. I'll post the link for an alternative male & female to try. I'll enquire and see if I can get a set sent out snail mail...
Post automatically merged:
I've seen 70feet of 26awg on a roll for $5 somewhere locally online. This will vary depending where you are, and up to the user to cut their own costs if they want.
Crimpers I've found cheap, but be careful on this. Some are not great at actually crimping nicely. If you buy one you get to keep it for next time.
Big thanks to everyone who's contributed so far. Keep the little bits of info flowing in.
I'll update the initial list in the 1st post as we gather all the info.
 
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Tb12

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I wouldn't trust the Chinese connectors to be as high quality as the Amphenol ones. Amphenol is a massive connector company, I've collaborated with them on some new medical connectors and used some other circular connectors that are extremely common for medical use. I generally trust their claims. Random Chinese suppliers... Not so much. Especially for underhood connections with heat cycling, vibration, and moisture, I wouldn't cheap out.
 

studio1930

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Saussie

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I wouldn't trust the Chinese connectors to be as high quality as the Amphenol ones. Amphenol is a massive connector company, I've collaborated with them on some new medical connectors and used some other circular connectors that are extremely common for medical use. I generally trust their claims. Random Chinese suppliers... Not so much. Especially for underhood connections with heat cycling, vibration, and moisture, I wouldn't cheap out.
Agreed. I'm not 100% sure they match up with an original anyway, better to go with what works.
Suprised if Amphenol aren't made in China either though. What connectors aren't these days? Hard to escape the Chinease manufacturing powerhouse without blowing up costs.
I've found Amphenol make great audio cables and some of their stuff's stocked locally for me.
 
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Tb12

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Agreed. I'm not 100% sure they match up with an original anyway, better to go with what works.
Suprised if Amphenol aren't made in China either though. What connectors aren't these days? Hard to escape the Chinease manufacturing powerhouse without blowing up costs.
I've found Amphenol make great audio cables and some of their stuff's stocked locally for me.
Made in China vs Chinese manufacturer are two different animals. Just because something is made in China doesn't mean it's bad - I've worked with awesome manufacturers there that exceed the capabilities and expertise of all the domestic suppliers I've used. I've also seen the opposite. The key is the quality control and ongoing manufacturing inspections and controls put in place by the company. You can get total crap and great parts out of the same factory depending on how you manage them. I trust Amphenol to have their shit on lockdown (iirc, at least their Chinese medical connector supplier was actually co-owned).
 

Saussie

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Made in China vs Chinese manufacturer are two different animals. Just because something is made in China doesn't mean it's bad - I've worked with awesome manufacturers there that exceed the capabilities and expertise of all the domestic suppliers I've used. I've also seen the opposite. The key is the quality control and ongoing manufacturing inspections and controls put in place by the company. You can get total crap and great parts out of the same factory depending on how you manage them. I trust Amphenol to have their **** on lockdown (iirc, at least their Chinese medical connector supplier was actually co-owned).
100% agree. It's often not the manufacture, but the design.
I'm the type to fiddle about until I get something perfectly tried and tested if I'm working on it. I've got the patience though. Others might crack the s**ts long before someone like me would give in. That said, there's no use making a job harder than it should be, as there's no bonus points for that, and you can't reclaim the time in life wasted mucking about. In saying that, we should probably just buy the original cable haha! I'm thoughtful of others that don't have immediate access to purchase one, or the many other reasons why someone might like to make one. First main reason is try and get ALP USA to ship outside the country. You've a snowflake in hells chance.
I'd have a go myself at making one as shipping could be a while where I'm at.
I think we should agree (for everyones sake and an all round safe win) we'll make the Amphenol connector on this thread the component of choice. If people choose to try anything else, by all means go for it and troubleshoot themselves. Dedicating the thread to chosen components, everyone gets the same experience and help (not that this is a mammoth task to achieve).
I'll edit the original post to reflect this and then it specifically locks the list down for one and all. Cheers for chipping in your $0.02 as every little bit helps. Good stuff!
Post automatically merged:
OK, original post updated.
Thanks to all for helping out

Cheers!
 
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thanks

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I'd go with OEM ALP cables, but if a patch cable is needed, this is a great idea!
 

Saussie

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I'd go with OEM ALP cables, but if a patch cable is needed, this is a great idea!
I agree.

I've have found, that with some countries suppliers, you cannot just go online and purchase if you're not in the same country, and seeing as American distributors won't deal with overseas customers, some might prefer this method.
 
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Saussie

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Think I as we go, might be good to gather the info for each cable and post it all up. Make an all in one custom cable fix thread. It will be a little work, but if we spread it out between users and gather it all together in one spot (this thread) it's there for future reference.
If other users can cover the LED, GPS, Power harness and whatever else, that would be cool for future reference. Might take a while, but no rush, we'll get there...
It's the only trouble I've found with ALP outside of USA. The availability of spares.
People have to wait around for emails trying to find parts, then wait for shipping.... I'm a bit anti establishment, and a day without a countermeasure for some is one more days win for them (the establishment). Hopefully this helps a few people out.
When you're parallel parking a limo, you'll want your parking sensors! ;)
 
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200V

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Made in China vs Chinese manufacturer are two different animals. Just because something is made in China doesn't mean it's bad - I've worked with awesome manufacturers there that exceed the capabilities and expertise of all the domestic suppliers I've used. I've also seen the opposite. The key is the quality control and ongoing manufacturing inspections and controls put in place by the company. You can get total crap and great parts out of the same factory depending on how you manage them. I trust Amphenol to have their **** on lockdown (iirc, at least their Chinese medical connector supplier was actually co-owned).
Iphones are made in China. ..to help make your point.
 

oktavf

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Iphones are made in China. ..to help make your point.
As I always say there is made in China and made in China. Ie one is cheap as hell junk and other is high end made for peanuts on the dollar "junk"...
 

Saussie

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Other thing I've noticed that's difficult to obtain online outside of USA is an original controller, but hifi is available.
 

Saussie

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Slight update to push it along a little. Feel free to let me know where it needs correcting. I'll try and organise this a bit better as I go.
 

200V

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If you need a international shipping source for connectors and such. that is super fast, I would suggest www.DigiKey.com
They are not the cheapest, but have huge inventory and often ship same day. They even have an app for searching and ordering.
But, if you order in low quantity you might end up paying more for your finished cable than an ALP original - if you don't need a custom length.
 
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