Wiring up the VC1 LE BT Dongle

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Im a bit stumped here. Tried everything and cant figure out. I made my own power wire tapping into my rearview mirror switched +12v dc. I found the port wiring diagrams for the V1 on the web and also the lighter PSU with the main and accessory pin layouts. Very simply in a 6 conductor phone cable pin 3 is ground and pin 4 is +12v. I even added a 2 amp micro fuse in the +12 line.

The issue is I can't get the dongle to power up. I figured I better rule out my homemade cable having the issue and tested it outside of my own designed cable plugging directly into the V1 lighter accessory unit with various supplied phone cables that came with the V1 packaging and still doesn't work. Yet when I use the dongle in my other car where I purchased a premade cable from Mirror Tap it works for both V1 and the dongle! The cigarette power adapter does work because I tested it to power up the V1 and all ok there. Just won't power the dongle either.

Does someone know what could be the issue here in the wiring? I read you need to use 4 conductor phone wire but I only have 2 wires in use and power up the V1 no problem using my designed cable. Just not the dongle and no matter using the 4 wire phone cable with the cigarette PSU it still doesn't work and that does also power the V1.

If I do go 4 wire to the dongle and it's required for it to function, where do the other extra 2 wires (Pin 2 and Pin 5) get connected to if you really are only tapping into ground and #12v in the powered rearview mirror?
 

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You need all 4 wires. The other two are for data between the devices. (Actually, one more for data sharing the common negative but if you are going with 3 might as well do all 4)

Also, each factory cable is a reverse from end to end (Bell standard). As you make connections, keep that in mind.
 
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You need all 4 wires. The other two are for data between the devices. (Actually, one more for data sharing the common negative but if you are going with 3 might as well do all 4)

Also, each factory cable is a reverse from end to end (Bell standard). As you make connections, keep that in mind.

Thanks Blue - Ok so if I understand correctly, Pin 2 and Pin 5 have to be wired directly to each other between the V1 and the Dongle? In addition to getting power and ground from the powered mirror to both RJ11 connectors on each?
 

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Yes. If you have the two devices at opposite ends and power in the middle of a custom cable, the two ends need to be "polarized" identically inside the RJ plugs and all 4 wires connected straight through. Then you can simply add power to the two in the center. In this case, ignore the bell standard concept.

(Man, I really hope I haven't forgotten something important here!)
 

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Yes. If you have the two devices at opposite ends and power in the middle of a custom cable, the two ends need to be "polarized" identically inside the RJ plugs and all 4 wires connected straight through. Then you can simply add power to the two in the center. In this case, ignore the bell standard concept.

(Man, I really hope I haven't forgotten something important here!)

Thanks brother. Simple enough to fix. I'll clip off the 2current RJ11's I terminated and add 2 more wires between the 2 and report back.
 

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These might help. :)
 

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These might help. :)

Thank you. Yes...I had the second pic you posted with the pin out diagrams and used that for guidance.

Well...still no go. The V1 display does now go dark as I have set to do when I use JBV1 and connects to dongle however the JBV1 app isn't seeing the dongle. Perhaps because of voltage and continuity.

Is it ok I send +12v to BOTH the V1 and Dongle from the mirror? I have running to each. Or is the +12v and Ground only sent to the V1 port and then power/ground transfers internally from the V1 to the dongle?

If not that than only other issue may be that I used RJ45 wire throughout my made cable and the continuity is an issue using that wire.
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Man I don't get this. I just made another cable using 4 conductor RJ11 wire and same result as previous. Tried removing the fuse in the loop too thinking maybe that was causing an issue and didn't change anything.

So this is the wire color and setup.

I'm using 1 pair 4 conductor RJ11 wire (same length) with 6 conductor RJ11 connectors. Each 4 of the RJ11 wire crimped on each connector with exception of Pin 1 and Pin 6 since will not have any wire connection at all and left bare. Pin 2 = Black (Display output) , Pin 3 = Red (Ground), Pin 4 = Green (+12V), and Pin 5 = Yellow (Audio/Mute).

Moving to both bare wire ends - Solder each same color coded wire together. I extend another piece of bare wire on Ground and +12v that were soldered together to offer an extention line to get to the source +12v and Ground on the powered rear view mirror.

Where am I going wrong?
 
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Bloovy One

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SKIP TO THE BOTTOM OF THIS POST>

What's the voltage output at the mirror? I don't do mirror taps at all and I'd recommend that you run the wire to the fuse area for reliability. Take that recommendation or leave it, I won't nag you about it. :)

Maybe the question is; where am I (BlueV1) going wrong? :)

Do you have a tester for RJ-11 or RJ-45?

The factory cables send 12v to each device. I'm not saying that each device uses it, but they might as well since it's there.
This is a poor diagram of what I think should work.
Code:
V1C                                 Power                          V1
--------------------------------------------------------------------- 2 or 5
----------------------------------- (-) ----------------------------- 3 or 4
----------------------------------- (+) ----------------------------- 4 or 3
--------------------------------------------------------------------- 5 or 2

I'll investigate more. :)
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Yet when I use the dongle in my other car where I purchased a premade cable from Mirror Tap it works for both V1 and the dongle! The cigarette power adapter does work because I tested it to power up the V1 and all ok there. Just won't power the dongle either.

I read through this again. The above sentences make me wonder about the V1C itself.
 
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Blue - I'm measuring over +14v switched at the mirror with voltmeter on the GMC Acadia where the install is going in. My Jeep Cherokee that has the Mirror Tap brand wire and measures the same switched voltage and confirmed through JBV1 app on phone. Remember the dongle is working in my Jeep as is the V1. To my previous point why the dongle wasn't working through the cigarette adapter earlier was probably because I didn't realize you had to have both V1 and Dongle connected to it. I thought all data flowed via BT which when you confirmed those 2 other hard lines needed to be connected between both devices I figured that's why but haven't tested again that way. I will now.

I don't have a RJ11 tester to see juice at dongle connector end but Id be hard pressed to see lack of voltage. That's the only thing I haven't tested. Also to confirm connecting the V1 to either RJ11 connector it does power up so each line does have power in the cable I made.

I do know that the Mirror Tap wire I bought have marked V1 and Dongle connectors ends and are not interchangable. One RJ11 is marked with yellow band specific for the V1 connection. So there must be a difference for how to wire this cable to have the Dongle and V1 operate. I must be missing something really simple somewhere along this circuit.
 
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Perhaps you are right! It would come down to how the factory power supplies are wired then.

My thoughts:
If you plug the V1 into the power with one reversing cord, then plug the V1C into the ACC jack with a reversing cord, the only change would have to be the power supply wiring. Because I've just used my tester in the past to replicate the factory results (not for voltage, but polarity of two ends of a cable) it's possible that I over-looked this.

The power supply and your mirror tap specify a connection to the appropriate device so polarity matters.

So maybe this then: (Plus and minus might need to be switched around)
Code:
V1C                                 Power                          V1
2 --------------------------------------------------------------------- 5
3 ----------------------------------- (-) ----------------------------- 4
4 ----------------------------------- (+) ----------------------------- 3
5 --------------------------------------------------------------------- 2
 
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Perhaps you are right! It would come down to how the factory power supplies are wired then.

My thoughts:
If you plug the V1 into the power with one reversing cord, then plug the V1C into the ACC jack with a reversing cord, the only change would have to be the power supply wiring. Because I've just used my tester in the past to replicate the factory results (not for voltage, but polarity of two ends of a cable) it's possible that I over-looked this.

The power supply and your mirror tap specify a connection to the appropriate device so polarity matters.

So maybe this then: (Plus and minus might need to be switched around)
Code:
V1C                                 Power                          V1
2 --------------------------------------------------------------------- 5
3 ----------------------------------- (-) ----------------------------- 4
4 ----------------------------------- (+) ----------------------------- 3
5 --------------------------------------------------------------------- 2

That has to be it and all that remains. I bet the V1C pins has +12v and Ground switched and not the same as the V1.

If this indeed the case, than those port diagrams floating around are also incorrect.

Onward we go with this saga.
 
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Bloovy One

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Yep, I would think that all the wires are reversed. I wish I could easily get to my cables and verify for you. I've got everything mounted tightly and hidden.
 

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Yep, I would think that all the wires are reversed. I wish I could easily get to my cables and verify for you. I've got everything mounted tightly and hidden.

Blue - while we are at this, what about pins 2 and 5 then on the V1C? Those lines switched too you think? Hate to drag this out while I redo this connection again.
 

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Yes. I expect that the cable between the V1 and V1C to be a bell standard reversing cable like all of the others that they supply. 123456 to 654321 or 2345 to 5432.
If the V1 was powered separately from another input, the bell standard cable would make sense to me. (Much like a serial cable between devices)

So, the only variation to that is to add power to 3 and 4 somewhere along the cable. :) If that's not right, I'd be surprised. Perhaps you can hook it up temporarily and get the V1 going and then add the V1C with alligator clips?
 

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That did it Blue! Sparked up immediately on the bench. The VC1 LE ports, those pins are completely arranged in the reverse from the V1 pins. It took me to talk this all out with you on this post but the light bulb finally went off once I knew the Mirror Tap harness was designated for each device.

I really appreciate your input.

If anyone want me to make up this cable for you I'll be happy to help. Just PM me. I've become a pro with it LOL. I have 2 extra cables sitting here now :p
 

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Fantastic! I'm sorry for leading you astray last night! Enjoy!
 

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