Power cord - would it be possible?

crabu2

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I'm on my 2nd power cord for my R3 and the usb port on it has already broken... and I don't know why, but this thought just popped in my head.

Would it be possible to make a cable that was RJ11 and USB A so you would use a USB car charger to power the detectors, or is the voltage wrong?

If this worked, it would be so much easier, at least for me... It would be even better if this cable you have a mute button on it near the USB A side.

Thanks!
 

SquirrelMaster

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Sure it's possible. A usb plug with a step up voltage converter would make it work.
As far as does it make sense for that to be manufactured, not really.

If it's something you really need, you can find these buck voltage boosters on ebay and solder on the appropriate leads to each end to make it work for ya
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For example: USB DC 5V to DC 12V Step up Module Converter 2.1x5.5mm Male Connector Plus MF 714067860322 | eBay

Just need to chop off the barrel connector and crimp on an rj11 connector instead.
 
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crabu2

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Hmm.. I was thinking about taking one of those hardwire kits that has a voltage converter and using it. Maybe I'll give it a shot because the factory plug just sucks.

Thanks all.
 

SquirrelMaster

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Hmm.. I was thinking about taking one of those hardwire kits that has a voltage converter and using it. Maybe I'll give it a shot because the factory plug just sucks.

Thanks all.
Those hardwire voltage adapter kits won't work. Most hardwire adapter kits drop 12v down to 5v to use on a Dashcam or whatever.

The r1/r3 uses 12v directly. You'd need something obscure like what I linked you.
 

crabu2

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Sure it's possible. A usb plug with a step up voltage converter would make it work.
As far as does it make sense for that to be manufactured, not really.

If it's something you really need, you can find these buck voltage boosters on ebay and solder on the appropriate leads to each end to make it work for ya
Post automatically merged:
For example: USB DC 5V to DC 12V Step up Module Converter 2.1x5.5mm Male Connector Plus MF 714067860322 | eBay

Just need to chop off the barrel connector and crimp on an rj11 connector instead.

I just order a 5V-12V converter, like you suggested. It was under $2, but it's going to be a while, since it's from China.

Will a RJ11 connector do, or do I need RJ14?

Thanks!
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Fuse taps are cheap and easy.
I didn't want a wire hanging on my dash, when my detector isn't in us.
 
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SquirrelMaster

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Fuse taps are the better option. You'll still have a wire going to the detector nonetheless. The fuse tap method will let you hide all the wiring.
Here is my R1 fuse tapped. The only bit of wire you can see anywhere in the car is the bit plugged into the side of the detector.
109460
 

Stkrdknmibalz

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Fuse taps are the better option. You'll still have a wire going to the detector nonetheless. The fuse tap method will let you hide all the wiring.
Here is my R1 fuse tapped. The only bit of wire you can see anywhere in the car is the bit plugged into the side of the detector.
View attachment 109460

Yeah if done right, there shouldn’t be any cables hanging


(ノ ゜Д゜)ノ ︵ ┻━┻
(╯°Д°)╯︵ /(.□ . \)
 

lastdeadmouse

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Fuse taps are the better option. You'll still have a wire going to the detector nonetheless. The fuse tap method will let you hide all the wiring.
Here is my R1 fuse tapped. The only bit of wire you can see anywhere in the car is the bit plugged into the side of the detector.
View attachment 109460
If you have 12v at the RVM, it's a perfectly fine option. The fuse for the mirror will be small enough to blow in any unlikely event a fuse is even needed, and it's only powered when the ignition is on in most cases. Just 6 inch's of phone line or cat, an rj11 plug, and 2 t-taps, splices, or a bit of solder and heatshrink needed. Takes all of 5 min if you've ever done any in car wiring before.

Sent from my moto g(6) using Tapatalk
 

crabu2

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If you have 12v at the RVM, it's a perfectly fine option. The fuse for the mirror will be small enough to blow in any unlikely event a fuse is even needed, and it's only powered when the ignition is on in most cases. Just 6 inch's of phone line or cat, an rj11 plug, and 2 t-taps, splices, or a bit of solder and heatshrink needed. Takes all of 5 min if you've ever done any in car wiring before.

Sent from my moto g(6) using Tapatalk

I keep my detector on the bottom side of my windshield and taping anything up high isn't going to work for me. That's why I want a cord. The only reason I want to use a USB to RJ11 cord is because I feel the Uniden lighter piece is junk. 1st one broke. as in the plastic broke. The one I got 2 or maybe 3 months ago is partially broken. The UBS plug is loose.
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I don't know why I didn't just search for a ready made cable before, but I think I found one.

Update.. Nevermind.. It looks like it doesn't step up the voltage to 12V.


Can anyone tell me if the power and ground are at the correct pins?

109498
 
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Bloovy One

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This looks like a lot of unnecessary work for what you might want.

If you are looking at this option, you probably don't care about the mute button or light.
How about a simple RJ-11 cord with hardwire fusebox ends? Plug in the positive to the fusebox and attach the negative behind a nut nearby.

I hate seeing so many weak Uniden power supplies. :oops:
 

Deacon

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Look, it’s difficult for me to imagine someone commercially producing an affordable setup that takes 5V USB, steps it up, and outputs it to 12V with an RJ11 termination with detector-friendly wiring.

The closest you’re going to get is something like this. You could cut the socket off and splice on a phone cord if you like, I guess.

ARECORD USB A Male to 12V Car Cigarette Lighter Socket Female Converter Amazon.com: ARECORD USB A Male to 12V Car Cigarette Lighter Socket Female Converter: Car Electronics

I have one. It can’t run radar guns, but it can power most detectors. 12V output at 0.8A maximum, maybe less depending on how much amperage your USB charger is putting out at 5V.
 
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lastdeadmouse

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I can't because then I can't move it from car to car. I'm looking for a solution where I can just move the cable with my RD, when I change vehicles.
You could just unplug it from your daily driver and use the lighter adapter or another hard wire in another car...

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Deacon

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Ha! Good luck, let us know how it works out. Might want to put a multimeter to it for a while and test its output first. Some of those power supplies are notorious for unstable power killing electronics.
 

lastdeadmouse

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In a 12V vehicle, the whole idea of going 12V to 5V, back to 12V just seems like unnecessary over complication, IMHO.

Sent from my moto g(6) using Tapatalk
 

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