Official Uniden R1/R3 issues guide

[gigahertz]

Didn't see that post, and no, am using a mirror tap (Blendmount?) same as on two other cars that don't have the issue with the same R3s.

This car is a Holden, SS 4-door, and the powerdown happens randomly. I need to find that post and see the value / type of capacitor. Don't see how 12V supply should vary from my setup to a factory harness.

Gen5DIY did find a fix for it. Are you using their harness?


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[Kaizer911]

As mentioned GEN5DIY.com has a harness for the 6th gen Camaro. My daily is a '17 SS Fifty edition and it works flawless with the capacitor inline.
You've probably already put 2 and 2 together and noticed it only power cycles when traction control kicks in.

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Didn't see that post, and no, am using a mirror tap (Blendmount?) same as on two other cars that don't have the issue with the same R3s.

The Mirrortap and other taps on the Camaro (and I’m guessing the Holden SS as well) have issues due to how much power the R3/R7 pull. It causes the BCM to go into a protected power mode and pulls back when to much draw is present and runs just the vital systems until a key cycle or the voltage draw goes back to normal. But the R3 has to be cycled at that point.

Ditch the mirror tap and get the Gen5DIY harness. They had to redo it to add a capacitor inline. They got involved on the Camaro forums rather well and solved it quickly. Or you could add a capacitor to your setup. Your choice.

I had the original harness and had this issue. Had to RMA it back to them once they caught wind of the issue and they fixed it free of charge. No issues since.

@highwayman very cool on the 50th. I have one as well but it’s not my daily.


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[highwayman]

@highwayman very cool on the 50th. I have one as well but it’s not my daily.


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I'm in your FB group and Camaro forum. We've chatted before. [emoji6][emoji41]

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[Kaizer911]

I'm in your FB group and Camaro forum. We've chatted before. [emoji6][emoji41]

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I thought so but wasn’t 100% sure.


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[gigahertz]

Thanks for the suggestions...any idea of the value of the capacitor? I'll dig one up and try it out.

 

[Kaizer911]

Thanks for the suggestions...any idea of the value of the capacitor? I'll dig one up and try it out.

Not sure off the top of my head. But if you email them over at Gen5DIY they might have the answer.


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[highwayman]

Thanks for the suggestions...any idea of the value of the capacitor? I'll dig one up and try it out.

I don't know the exact value either.

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[spunkymonky]

My R3 falses on laser pretty much non stop. I haven't been able to pin down why but it only happens when I'm around other vehicles or driving through cities. My first thought is oncoming headlights somehow are triggering it. I drove 2 hours up north with no one else around and it never falsed once. As soon as I got into the city again with oncoming traffic I started getting laser falses. I ended up turning laser off but I was a little concerned it wasn't working properly at all so I ran both my DFR7 and R3 and it seems to have no issues on K or Ka band as compared to the DFR7. I also have never had the DFR7 laser alert go off since I've owned it.

 

[DChiJEllis]

My R3 falses on laser pretty much non stop. I haven't been able to pin down why but it only happens when I'm around other vehicles or driving through cities. My first thought is oncoming headlights somehow are triggering it. I drove 2 hours up north with no one else around and it never falsed once. As soon as I got into the city again with oncoming traffic I started getting laser falses. I ended up turning laser off but I was a little concerned it wasn't working properly at all so I ran both my DFR7 and R3 and it seems to have no issues on K or Ka band as compared to the DFR7. I also have never had the DFR7 laser alert go off since I've owned it.

What firmware are you running on your R3?
Do you have a phone on your dashboard near/below your RD? What kind of phone? The IR sensors in newer phones will trigger the laser sensor in the R3.

 

[spunkymonky]

I'm running 1.50, bought it 3 weeks ago, it's definitely not the phone. As stated, as soon as I was in the boonies with no other vehicles or buildings around I got zero laser alerts, 4 hours. During this time I tried everything with the phone to get the laser to alert as I was aware of this possibility and it never did. Also shut the phone off and still received laser alerts. I'm ok with turning laser off but seems this is definitely a problem for these and makes laser detection even less useless than it already is.

Post automatically merged: Mar 5, 2020

I should add that I'm glad I upgraded to the R3, the Ka range is exceptional. This thing alerts me miles before the DFR7 did.

 

[DChiJEllis]

Could be a scratch on the sensor or a dirty sensor. It’s not known to false to laser like that. Especially on later firmware.

 

[spunkymonky]

Could be a scratch on the sensor or a dirty sensor. It’s not known to false to laser like that. Especially on later firmware.

I would argue that it is known for that if you google it. Most seem to just turn laser off.

 

[oversteer325]

I would argue that it is known for that if you google it. Most seem to just turn laser off.

I have laser on and have never had a false or any alert to laser for that matter on my R3. You wouldn’t happen to have a new BMW that has the gesture controls for the infotainment?

 

[spunkymonky]

I have laser on and have never had a false or any alert to laser for that matter on my R3. You wouldn’t happen to have a new BMW that has the gesture controls for the infotainment?

No it's in my 2011 F150. Again as stated it was alert free while driving for hours in the backwoods. This rules out my cell phone and the vehicle as far as I'm concerned. It only starts alerting with other traffic and/or when I'm in a city. However based on the times it alerts I would suspect it's oncoming traffic somehow.

 

[Kaizer911]

My iPhone XS Max has caused false laser alerts a few times. The current/newest R3 firmware reduced that as well as readjusting where my phone sits.

Just my 2 cents worth.


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[bluesxturbo]

I have one major issue with my R3, speaker, speaker speaker.

The speaker is annoying, it broke twice already, I sent it back for repair, I believe it was like $80 each time. I asked the rep on the phone have they heard anyone with broken speakers (I know we got plenty confirmed). He said "no, you are the first person." Why would someone lie?

 

[rsirico]

I just bought a new R3 on Amazon that was delivered yesterday. It is brand new in a sealed package with firmware 1.53. My car is a 2013 Hyundai Genesis Coupe, It has an Escort RJ11 hard wire kit installed in it. The R3 power cycles on and off when plugged into the existing hardwire I was using with the Escort. If I use the coiled 12v cable that came with the R3 does not power cycle and operates perfectly. I am puzzled what could be causing this,
I am reluctant to buy another hard wire cable and replace it. What could be wrong with the cable, it’s a 2 wire RJ11 with a fuse and red hot that goes into an add a fuse switched circuit and a good solid ground under the dash. It worked fine with the Escort. I think its the car causing this.
Any suggestions why it would power off than power on immediately and at other times power off and stay off until I unplugged the RJ11 and plug it back in, then it powers on again. Again it does not act this way using the factory 12v coiled power cable that came with the R3.

 

[schwinn]

Could be a loose/bad connection for the hard-wired cable. For example, I've heard a few people have issues with the mirror-tap style connections. A bad connection at the pins would result in high resistance on that end, which could cause this type of behavior. Do you have a mirror-tap setup, or something more secure?

Don't get me wrong, mirror tap style can work, but it has issues...

 

[rsirico]

The cable is hard wired right into the fuse box. The positive is connected with an add a fuse connector and the ground is connected to a bolt under the dash/firewall

Post automatically merged: Apr 15, 2020

I figured out what was wrong, the ground was loose inside the connector under the dash...all is well.

 

[gigahertz]

My R3 on a 2016 Chevrolet SS (Holden) had the power cut out issue. Went to eBay, purchased a couple 16V 100 ufd (microfarad) 5 x 7mm aluminum electrolytic capacitors, wired them to the 12V leads, PROBLEM SOLVED. No issues since. The capacitors were $1.00 plus $2.99 shipping plus tax. I have one left over for another vehicle, if needed.

Easy and no need to run any more wires.

Note: This issue was not evident with a BEL 300 detector; apparently, the R3 is sensitive to transients on the line.