Powering V1 and V1C on battery

Benji

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Given my stability issues with powering the V1 and V1C through the cigarette lighter adaptor I was wondering if anyone has powered theirs through a separate battery? I was thinking about using the hardwire kit I have and connecting the power leads to something like this:

http://www.walmart.com/ip/UPG-85983...s-12V-5-AH-.187-Tab-Terminals-UB1250/21618810

But I'm no electrician so I'm not sure how much of a bad idea this is. According to specs on V1's website the V1 never draws more than 425mA in full alert:

http://www.valentine1.com/v1info/pdf/manual_2012/Pg34_Specifications.pdf

Throw in the V1C and I would imagine something like 500mA and highly unlikely to be anything more than 600mA. Any thoughts?
 

azu5021

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Well if you have a poor connection I would try out the brown out booster:
http://www.valentine1.com/v1info/bob.asp

it basically acts like a short term batter that will keep the deivce on if the power drops momentarly.

Something like this could also work for you:
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B002YT84QM/?tag=rdf0cd0c-20

Both of these would work if your 12v just 'glitches' sometimes and drops the voltage.

If your 12v outlet doesn't work you could run it through an external battery, just be sure both systems are completely isolated from each other.

Addtionally, you could always just hardwire it using a vampire tap or an add-a-fuse and get 12v that way.
 

Benji

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I want to run it from a separate battery because this is my girlfriend's car and I don't want to tap anything into her loom, yes it should be absolutely fine but I want to avoid it and it's also her wishes so I'm not going to argue with her :D

Once running from a separate battery a BOB shouldn't be necessary, nor any other capacitors. Just looking for a suitable battery that will last a while and is easily recharged.
 

azu5021

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Yeah once it is connected to a battery you'll be fine. Battery wise I think you would want something for >12 hours of runtime. So your looking for something in the neighborhood of 6ah (6000mah) if not greater.
 

Benji

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I have a feeling NiMH would be the 'safest'/cheapest but maybe a LiPo may be a better bet? For example the difference between this:

http://www.batteryspace.com/SLA-Battery-Sealed-Lead-Acid-Battery-12V-4.5AH.aspx

And this:

http://www.batteryspace.com/Poweriz...5Ah-60Wh-12A-rate-with-PCB---Replace-SLA.aspx

Hmm.... Nearly six times more expensive but at least it has a lot of battery protection built and... it helps if I also use it to justify bench building other car projects since I'm looking to build this all in (including my Nexus 7) into the dash of my Miata.
 

azu5021

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I have a feeling NiMH would be the 'safest'/cheapest but maybe a LiPo may be a better bet? For example the difference between this:

http://www.batteryspace.com/SLA-Battery-Sealed-Lead-Acid-Battery-12V-4.5AH.aspx

And this:

http://www.batteryspace.com/Poweriz...5Ah-60Wh-12A-rate-with-PCB---Replace-SLA.aspx

Hmm.... Nearly six times more expensive but at least it has a lot of battery protection built and... it helps if I also use it to justify bench building other car projects since I'm looking to build this all in (including my Nexus 7) into the dash of my Miata.


Ex-Hobby shop employee here. I recommend a123 li-ion batteries to everyone for nearly everything. They are an incredibly impressive battery. You can charge them from 0 to 100% in 15/20 minute (assuming your charger can). Built in safety vents. Fairly durable and won't generate a 'memory' like some other battery technologies. These were used in the fisker karma and dewalt drills.

Here is a source: http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/..._Lithium_Ion_2300mAh_Single_Cell_Battery.html
My local 'batteries plus' also stocks them and some hobby stores do.

I would suggest using a 4 series 2 parallel pack. So 8 total cells. That would give you something like 13.2v at 4600mah.

Additionally these cells are very good for cycle count and are usually good for >1500 cycles at a light load (like yours).

Here is the datasheet: http://e-motion.lt/wp-content/uploads/2010/01/ANR26650M1A_Datasheet.pdf

And if you ever get a dead car battery you can always jump start your car with it.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=j1tfL8lon9k


Edit: With any lithium based battery you should run a low voltage cuttoff/indicator. If you discharge these batteries too low you won't be able to recharge them.
 

Benji

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That video is nuts! If you could get the alternator to charge it properly that would be a CRAZY lightweight car/bike battery, small and MUCH cheaper than these!:

http://www.summitracing.com/search/brand/braille-battery?SortBy=DisplayPrice&SortOrder=Desc

However, didn't A123 go bankrupt or something? I'm also not sure I'd know how to put it all together safely but it looks BADASS...

It would be nice to use that as an actual car battery but I'm not sure how you would go about the charging circuit.
 

azu5021

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Yeah the charging part is a little bit more complex than with SLA's.

They are used for race bike batteries. I forget the company but yes they do use them for that.

Yes they did. Fortunately there are still plenty of them around.

Here is one with power management built in and the user guide says it works with some chargers: http://www.buya123batteries.com/ALM_12V7_p/400520-301.htm

*I have never used that company before and can't say how legitimate they are.


Really though for your application any 12v battery that is over 4500mah/4.5ah will work for you. From a cost and charging aspect a sla might be your best choice
 

staze

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V1 powered by replaceable battery?

Hello! Could anyone please advise, what accessories would be needed to power my V1 with a small replaceable battery assembly vs. car charger or fuse box?

If possible, I'd like to put a small battery assembly in my concealed overhead sunglasses compartment, with just a short cable run (6") from there to the V1.

If possible, this would be preferable to the greater visibility of the other corded options.

Thanks in advance! :)
 

V1Jake

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Re: V1 powered by replaceable battery?

Why? Making something like that sounds like a pain and not to mention having to take apart something to take out the battery when it needs replacing. The hardwire kit they provide is simple and provides continuous power the V1 and can be installed near the sunroof motor area which is completely hidden and the phone cable can be tucked up out of view.
 

Eloi

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Re: V1 powered by replaceable battery?

Hello! Could anyone please advise, what accessories would be needed to power my V1 with a small replaceable battery assembly vs. car charger or fuse box?

If possible, I'd like to put a small battery assembly in my concealed overhead sunglasses compartment, with just a short cable run (6") from there to the V1.

If possible, this would be preferable to the greater visibility of the other corded options.

Thanks in advance! :)

One good way to power your V-1 is to use a stack of 3 lithium cell batteries .
Each one has 3.7 volts X 3 = 11.1 v
better yet 4 x 3.7 = 14.8 v .

Those voltage are in the V-1 range , obviously the pack of 4 will run longer.
You have to test which pack will meet your need.

The pack of 4 will be chargeable via your cigarette lighter .
The best place to find those batteries : from a used computer battery pack.
Make sure each battery has 3.7 v , if below the battery is defective, discard it.
Many will claim it is dangerous to charge them on 12 v , though when placed in
series , this problem is avoided . In SERIES is of ultimate importance.
Caveat : 4 batteries make quite a long assembly if placed in line , though
you can place them side by side = be sure you know how to connect them :
+...- +...-+...-+...-

Never short a lithium battery for a long time : they become very hot as the
delivered amperage is large : + 10 amps.

Second option : a motorcycle batteries will be perfect if you can find a safe and good spot.
This one can but charge via cigarette lighter.

Dont try those options if you are not familiar with basic electricity !!!!!!

But you can achieve the same stealthiness by using 1 small wire :
the ground is taken locally (near your rd) ,
the + is taken from a dome light or the fuse box ,
easy to bring 1 wire up.
Good luck.
 

flank

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Re: V1 powered by replaceable battery?

A hardwire kit is the way to.

You can always go to bestbuy or an audio shop and have them run the wires. Shouldn't cost very much due to how easy it is. Bestbuy does it for $50. I think that is reasonable if you can't do it yourself or don't want to.

http://www.bestbuy.com/site/geek-sq...218417801236&skuId=3582111&st=radar&cp=1&lp=1

There are also installcard (gift cards) that you can buy then take to a participating shop.

http://www.buyradardetectors.com/products/installcard/42-1017-direct-wire.aspx

AIDJqARNHbmaFomb-1H2pzGj0NHy9uSq.jpeg
 

Andrew21

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Re: V1 powered by replaceable battery?

Why use batteries? God forbid the juice runs out when you need it the most!

Let's say your driving and the batteries die. You will never hear it or see it then smokey is right around the bend. Worth it?

Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk
 

GTO_04

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Re: V1 powered by replaceable battery?

One good way to power your V-1 is to use a stack of 3 lithium cell batteries .
Each one has 3.7 volts X 3 = 11.1 v
better yet 4 x 3.7 = 14.8 v .

Those voltage are in the V-1 range , obviously the pack of 4 will run longer.
You have to test which pack will meet your need.

The pack of 4 will be chargeable via your cigarette lighter .
The best place to find those batteries : from a used computer battery pack.
Make sure each battery has 3.7 v , if below the battery is defective, discard it.
Many will claim it is dangerous to charge them on 12 v , though when placed in
series , this problem is avoided . In SERIES is of ultimate importance.
Caveat : 4 batteries make quite a long assembly if placed in line , though
you can place them side by side = be sure you know how to connect them :
+...- +...-+...-+...-

Never short a lithium battery for a long time : they become very hot as the
delivered amperage is large : + 10 amps.

Second option : a motorcycle batteries will be perfect if you can find a safe and good spot.
This one can but charge via cigarette lighter.

Dont try those options if you are not familiar with basic electricity !!!!!!

But you can achieve the same stealthiness by using 1 small wire :
the ground is taken locally (near your rd) ,
the + is taken from a dome light or the fuse box ,
easy to bring 1 wire up.
Good luck.

I would NOT charge lithium batteries with 12V supply out of your car. That is playing with fire IMHO. I would only charge lithium batteries with a charger specifically designed for them.

What you are suggesting is trickle charging the batteries and it is not recommended for lithium cells. If you are lucky enough to not have the batteries catch fire, they will not last very long.

GTO_04
 
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jdong

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Re: V1 powered by replaceable battery?


Sure in terms of a product that can run off 2 AA batteries.

But a laptop or tablet Li-Po pack can probably run a V1 for a good 12+ hours before needing to be charged, so if that's for some reason more convenient than hardwiring.... I don't see a disadvantage.


Do not attempt to recharge lithium primary cells though, which I saw suggested. That's a horrible idea.
 

Benji

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Re: V1 powered by replaceable battery?

I looked into this myself but the biggest problem is getting a battery worth a damn (unless you want to charge it every trip/day) that doesn't cost a fortune and more importantly you can SAFELY charge, as has been mentioned, Lithium Ion (LiON) batteries are a no no! Additionally you want something that isn't going to try and kill you because it's venting in the car (lead acid batteries for example).

I actually started a thread on this a while ago with some links to batteries I thought would be the most sensible but the cost is quite high because I wanted to run the V1 for roughly a week (not constantly on, just my average commute) without needing to charge the battery:

https://www.rdforum.org/showthread.php?t=30054
 

Radar Hunter

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Re: V1 powered by replaceable battery?

Staze...The V1 isn't made to run off batteries and if you do run it off a couple AA's just to say,your not going to get the full performance out of the V1... The V1 needs a constant source of 12 volt power from either your cigarette light plug or a hard wire connection.Even Mike Valentine stresses the point about a cordless radar detector and its functions to run properly:
There's no cordless version of V1

It's possible to run a radar detector on two throw away AAs, but you have to give up any hope of high performance.
Performance takes power. There's no getting around the physics of it. Batteries are weak sources of power. That's why electric cars use battery packs weighing hundreds of pounds, yet few of them can top 100 miles without recharging.A radar detector operates like a sentry making its rounds. If the territory is small, then he can watch carefully and often. Expand the territory and he has time for only quick glances. When "superwide Ka" radar guns came on the scene a few years back, the microwave territory a radar detector has to watch was expanded more than 1000 percent, compared to the good old days of X and K bands only. Now the sentry needs powerful circuits."SOLO 3 uses only a fraction of the power used by conventional corded detectors,"The SOLO 3s "High-Efficiency Power Management" is hardly rocket surgery. It saves the two AAs by putting the sentry to sleep more than 85 percent of the time. It just switches off the power-using detector circuitry.A sleeping sentry can't possibly give early warning when radar is used in the instant-on mode. And it gives up all hope of detecting the POP mode.
Sure, a cordless detector would be convenient. And I'll be out in the lab cooking one up as soon as the laws of physics are repealed.


FPXK2GRDRxDCsxngvSuWLzSWbMLHXoQ-.jpeg

Mike Valentine
 

ersin

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Threads merged per Benji's request.


Cheers.
 

Benji

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Re: V1 powered by replaceable battery?

Staze...The V1 isn't made to run off b
atteries and if you do run it off a couple AA's just to say,your not going to get the full [FONT=Arial, Verdana, sans-serif]performance out of the V1... The V1 needs a constant source of 12 volt power from either your cigarette light plug or a hard wire connection.Even Mike Valentine stresses the point about a cordless radar detector and its functions to run properly: [/FONT]
[h=2]There's no cordless version of V1[/h]It's possible to run a radar detector on two throw away AAs, but you have to give up any hope of high performance.[FONT=Arial, Verdana, sans-serif] [/FONT]
Performance takes power. There's no getting around the physics of it. Batteries are weak sources of power. That's why electric cars use battery packs weighing hundreds of pounds, yet few of them can top 100 miles without recharging.A radar detector operates like a sentry making its rounds. If the territory is small, then he can watch carefully and often. Expand the territory and he has time for only quick glances. When "superwide Ka" radar guns came on the scene a few years back, the microwave territory a radar detector has to watch was expanded more than 1000 percent, compared to the good old days of X and K bands only. Now the sentry needs powerful circuits."SOLO 3 uses only a fraction of the power used by conventional corded detectors,"The SOLO 3s "High-Efficiency Power Management" is hardly rocket surgery. It saves the two AAs by putting the sentry to sleep more than 85 percent of the time. It just switches off the power-using detector circuitry.A sleeping sentry can't possibly give early warning when radar is used in the instant-on mode. And it gives up all hope of detecting the POP mode.
Sure, a cordless detector would be convenient. And I'll be out in the lab cooking one up as soon as the laws of physics are repealed.


MDEuWPIlXLSbtuSFejDDT08vyBR90iJD.jpeg

Mike Valentine

That's just marketing spiel by Mike V, most of it is old or bunk. The simple fact is this:

http://www.valentine1.com/v1info/pdf/manual_2012/Pg34_Specifications.pdf

"Power Requirements: 11.0-16.0 Volts DC negative ground
225 mA typical standby, 425 mA maximum alarm condition"

Modern day mobile phone batteries do perfectly fine and some of them will be consuming 1.2A+ in full use. Provided you spec your battery right, it wouldn't matter, after all it runs just fine from your car battery.
 

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