4Runner Switched 12Volt Outlet Issue

3kushn

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I've got a 2021 4Runner and temporarily have my V1 powered with the 12V Cig outlet.
The problem I have is when starting the engine the V1 briefly see's power then turns off.
I'm assuming the source of the issue is with the truck, not V1.

Anyone have this with their vehicles? Maybe other Toyota drivers. Is there a solution.

In the end I'd simply like the V1 to turn on with engine start up and turn off on shut down.
Is that too much to expect for crying out loud?
 

LouG

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Unless you can wire a timer delay into the cig lighter circuit I doubt there's an easy fix.
I've hard wired my all cars for a long time now. there's usually a switched circuit that doesn't get killed on start up.
 

IcePick74

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It seems to happen depending on how long and when the aux power interruption occurs.

If you hardwire you can use a circuit on the engine bus, it wont "blink" like the auxiliary bus powered circuits.
if you need to keep using the 12v aux plug adding the delay circuit will be needed.
 

biolink

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My car sees this with the direct wore I did to the socket circuit. When I get around to it I'm going to install a kill switch.
 

aspexin22

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The V1G2 when I first got it in June 2020 (after trading in the G1) plugged into the 12v socket would startup with the 2020 Subaru Outback. Then at some point the behavior changed and the V1G2 would start to turn on then turn off requiring me to push the front button to bring the V1G2 back to life. This continued for all of the winter months of 2020 and 2021. About 2-3 weeks ago I got in the Outback and turned the car on and the V1G2 stayed on without turning off. And it has been functioning like that each and every time since. Still plugged into the same 12v socket. So I'm stumped. All I can think is there is something about cold weather starts that is different than warm weather starts in the Outback. This has all happened in both Central Illinois where I am now and Central Indiana where we lived until the end of 2020.

I believe Subaru's also share a lot of componentry with Toyota.
 

sbx7

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My Mazda does the same thing. When starting the engine all power goes to the ignition and all other accessories are cut off, including the radio and the a/c. However my R360C will power on after start up but not the V1G2. You have to push the power on button.
 

barry

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The V1G2 when I first got it in June 2020 (after trading in the G1) plugged into the 12v socket would startup with the 2020 Subaru Outback. Then at some point the behavior changed and the V1G2 would start to turn on then turn off requiring me to push the front button to bring the V1G2 back to life. This continued for all of the winter months of 2020 and 2021. About 2-3 weeks ago I got in the Outback and turned the car on and the V1G2 stayed on without turning off. And it has been functioning like that each and every time since. Still plugged into the same 12v socket. So I'm stumped. All I can think is there is something about cold weather starts that is different than warm weather starts in the Outback. This has all happened in both Central Illinois where I am now and Central Indiana where we lived until the end of 2020.

Could this problem be occurring simply because it takes a little longer for the car to start in the winter than in the summer? A small change in the amount of time the power is off to the V1G2 during starting the engine (i.e., the time before the power comes back to the V1) could make a difference. In the winter case the detector may be interpreting the power off timing as a "power down" command.
 

LouG

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Car systems are becoming so complex that it's possible the "kill on start" may be temp dependant.
Or there's been a change of gremlins. A gremlin coup occurred.
 

barry

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Car systems are becoming so complex that it's possible the "kill on start" may be temp dependant.
Or there's been a change of gremlins. A gremlin coup occurred.

This example isn't really the same thing, but I know the disconnect of accessory power on our our Audi TDI varies with temp. It starts very quickly when it's warm out. However, when it's cold it takes more time (up to several seconds) to preheat the glow plugs before the engine will even crank.

Most gasoline engines take a bit longer to start when it's really cold out than when it's hot. Since the cigarette lighter outlet is usually disconnected while the engine is cranking it would be off longer when cold out than when warm.

Of course, it could also be a gremlin coup.
 

bluehemi

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My toyota doesn't do that. It does kill everything during start up though
 

3kushn

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I dont believe this is temperature related. Purchased the truck Nov 2020, the V1 G2 acted the same way every time in all temps. Curiously there was one instance where it stayed on.

I'll go over to the 4Runner forum and see if anyone recommend a circuit that doesn't power down during engine startup and is powered down on engine shut down.

bluehemi: I'm wondering if the Push to Start system has something to do with this.
Do you use a normal key to start your Toyo?
 
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STS-134

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Car systems are becoming so complex that it's possible the "kill on start" may be temp dependant.
Or there's been a change of gremlins. A gremlin coup occurred.
To those of us who drive HEVs, PHEVs, or BEVs, this issue seems so archaic lol. Cranking an engine with a starter battery? Haven't done that in months.
 

LouG

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Quite.
But I fill from empty to full in 2 minutes. I don't have enough years left for 40 minute refuels.🧓

I also don't have to rely on a battery to move my car, that seems so 1870's.
 
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STS-134

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Quite.
But I fill from empty to full in 2 minutes. I don't have enough years left for 40 minute refuels.🧓

I also don't have to rely on a battery to move my car, that seems so 1870's.
I'm not sure what you're talking about. My PHEV refuels in 2 minutes, as does my father's HEV. And my BEV goes from 0 to 50% in ~10 minutes. And none of these vehicles have issues with stupid voltage drops due to cranking, which is such a 1990s issue. Fortunately, none of my pure ICE propulsion cars (I got rid of the last of those 3 months ago) ever had a problem with accessories (like dashcams) shutting down but I highly doubt manufacturers design the 12V sockets with this stuff in mind. I did have an annoying issue with the phone charger though; sometimes it would not charge the phone after the power got cut off and switched back on, and I'd have to unplug it and plug it back in to get my phone to charge.
 
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LouG

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I'm not sure what you're talking about. My PHEV refuels in 2 minutes, as does my father's HEV. And my BEV goes from 0 to 50% in ~10 minutes. And none of these vehicles have issues with stupid voltage drops due to cranking, which is such a 1990s issue. Fortunately, none of my pure ICE propulsion cars (I got rid of the last of those 3 months ago) ever had a problem with accessories (like dashcams) shutting down but I highly doubt manufacturers design the 12V sockets with this stuff in mind. I did have an annoying issue with the phone charger though; sometimes it would not charge the phone after the power got cut off and switched back on, and I'd have to unplug it and plug it back in to get my phone to charge.
PHEV and HV have IC engines. 0 - 50% in 10 minutes is not the same as 10 - 100% in 2 minutes. And, as I understand it, many EV's charging rates slow as they "fill up".
And, the cranking issue is not present in all modern cars, our VA Group cars aren't affected. (Those clever Germans)
Now, I don't care about your choice of vehicles, in fact we're thinking seriously about the new Cupra Born (VW iD3) for my wife, especially now that our Government will give us $NZ8500 to buy one.
But if there's banter going on about outdated IC vehicles I just love to dive in ;)
 

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