Quick Mount for V1gen2 in Tesla Model 3

TonyJag

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INTRODUCTION. Working on a quick mount and wired power connection for a new V1gen2 in my 2020 Tesla Model 3 Performance, I have been taking pictures and will post the rest of the story, once it is done and working properly, with lessons learned.

In order to power the V1gen2 optimally-mounted below the rearview mirror, I decided to use a 12V source in the near-by dome light panel as shown here:
This 12V source has also appeared in other forum posts and videos. Constant 12V (vs. switched) is not ideal, but i had several work-around ideas (PIR to see the driver, vibration/acceleration sensors, quick mount, etc.). The extra components and work seemed easier than tearing some of the interior apart to get to a switched 12V connection, which seem rare and hard to access in the Model 3. It was far easier to find and connect to ignition-switched 12V to power V1s in previous ICE cars, including Saabs, Volvos, and Acuras. These cars could not change the behavior of 12V sources via software updates like the Tesla can do.

Across the yellow (pin 1) and black (pin 16) wires in the Tesla dome-light panel connector, I measured about 14 V with a Fluke DVM. Other videos or postings say it shuts off after the car goes to sleep. To investigate, i hooked up an LED+resistor that was visible from outside without waking up the car. The LED did stay on for at least 24 hours, even with the car not connected to its charger, so it must be constant. I later found a post that says it drops from 12V to 9V when the car sleeps. But the V1 would still draw current at 9V. The table (attached File) lists measurements with the V1gen2 on with bluetooth, but not receiving any signals. It is interesting that the current increases as the voltage decreases, exhibiting roughly constant power.

With a nearby 12V source identified, I built a “quick" mount to hang the V1gen2 under the mirror. I call it a quick mount because all you need to do is slide the V1 in/out. There is no RJ-11 connection to fuss with, so it can be done one-handed without looking. It works great mechanically. BUT the Tesla microphone, also in that panel with the dome lights, did not work so she quit responding to voice commands! But if I switched off the V1, the mike worked again. Huh?

I was going seek inputs from the forum before I invoke plan B and go find a better 12V source, like the one under the left edge of the dash that many recommend. BUT today, Mar 21, I went to measure the voltage and it was 14.7V, even with both dome lights and the V1 on and the main battery at 60% and not charging. JBV1 on my phone also read 14.62 Volts. And the microphone works! I will try it for a few more days before completing the story.
 

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alee

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My best understanding is sometime in 2019, VCLEFT stopped being terminated so even if you tapped it, nothing is there. It works for my 2018, but has slowly worked itself loose (probably from launching my car hard too many times, lol).

The other thing I've seen folks do is tap the 12V under the armrest and just run a very long cord, tucking under the center console, etc.
 

TonyJag

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My best understanding is sometime in 2019, VCLEFT stopped being terminated so even if you tapped it, nothing is there. It works for my 2018, but has slowly worked itself loose (probably from launching my car hard too many times, lol).

The other thing I've seen folks do is tap the 12V under the armrest and just run a very long cord, tucking under the center console, etc.
Yeah. This 2018 movie shows how to get the 12V from under the console via the blue wire under the left edge of the dash, closer but still a pita.
I just verified that in my 2020, 12V under the console stays on when you enter power off via the touch screen, but turns off within an hour after the car goes to sleep. I may end up using that if 12V from the dome light panel doesn't work out.
 

TonyJag

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My best understanding is sometime in 2019, VCLEFT stopped being terminated so even if you tapped it, nothing is there. It works for my 2018, but has slowly worked itself loose (probably from launching my car hard too many times, lol).

The other thing I've seen folks do is tap the 12V under the armrest and just run a very long cord, tucking under the center console, etc.
Thanks. What is VCLEFT?
 

alee

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Thanks. What is VCLEFT?
There's a module in the car which controls a number of vehicle functions, and used to have a powered but unused slot which many believe was for trailer hitch lights for the EU. The nice part of tapping power in VCLEFT is that it's totally non-invasive - no wires to tap.

Here's the instructions that I used.
 

TonyJag

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There's a module in the car which controls a number of vehicle functions, and used to have a powered but unused slot which many believe was for trailer hitch lights for the EU. The nice part of tapping power in VCLEFT is that it's totally non-invasive - no wires to tap.

Here's the instructions that I used.
Thanks. I have seen this video from Ingineerix.
Is VCLEFT the big red wire, the harness that it is part of, the connector, the module, or something else?
 

InDecay

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What a time for this thread, as I just picked up a ‘21 Model 3 today and was curious on the best method for reconnecting my V1G2.
 

TonyJag

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Update: today, I made a number of decisions and just about completed the installation. It should be back together over the weekend when i will finish writing it up, with lots of pictures, lessons learned, details, alternatives, and references.
 

mwjoe

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Update: today, I made a number of decisions and just about completed the installation. It should be back together over the weekend when i will finish writing it up, with lots of pictures, lessons learned, details, alternatives, and references.
I look forward to seeing what you come up with. I've ordered a V1G2 and plan to hardwire it in along with a remote mount. I'm still weighing options on exactly where to mount it and run wires.

I'm fairly certain I will pull power from the powerport in the center counsel as I have already tapped into it for additional USB power in the center counsel. I did this to be able to have additional power ports and charging power, while keeping the data ports focused on data. Another option that I used for a powered subwoofer is a 12 volt switched source under the back seat.
 

InDecay

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IMG_1035.jpeg


I just used the permanent windshield mount and will snake the cable back to the center console for power. Still unsure where to mount the concealed display.
 

TonyJag

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Sorry, Figure 7. somehow got inverted. Attached is a corrected version of it. I also noticed that the links don't seem to work just by clicking...you need to cut and paste them into a browser. Based on comments, I may issue a revised document.
 

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TonyJag

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The Quick Mount has been working very well in my Model 3. Attached is a better picture of it.
QuickMount Photo.jpg
I have a revised version of the story, mostly minor edits, just about ready to post and would appreciate any comments, corrections, questions, etc. that might be incorporated. Thanks
 

kilpatds

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I'm looking to mount it to the right of the mirror instead of under (never liked under as it obstructs my view more, don't live in CA and so don't have to worry about their specific "don't touch the windshield" rules)

Also, I really wish there was a switched 12V reachable.

Re: connector... I'm kinda curious what I could wire up with a USB-C magsafe-style adapter plus a USB-C to 12V adapter and a bit of wire crimping....
 

InDecay

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I'm looking to mount it to the right of the mirror instead of under (never liked under as it obstructs my view more, don't live in CA and so don't have to worry about their specific "don't touch the windshield" rules)

Also, I really wish there was a switched 12V reachable.

Re: connector... I'm kinda curious what I could wire up with a USB-C magsafe-style adapter plus a USB-C to 12V adapter and a bit of wire crimping....
I’ve posted this recently elsewhere, but this easily works. I moved the Tesla flash drive with a USB-A to C adapter to the center console.
 

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Deacon

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I’ve posted this recently elsewhere, but this easily works. I moved the Tesla flash drive with a USB-A to C adapter to the center console.
Out of curiosity, since it doesn’t have an engine to start or stop or a key to be used to enter accessory mode, is that USB port live 24/7? Or if not, under what circumstances does it turn off?
 

InDecay

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Out of curiosity, since it doesn’t have an engine to start or stop or a key to be used to enter accessory mode, is that USB port live 24/7? Or if not, under what circumstances does it turn off?
It’s live when the car is in use, sentry/dog/climate mode is on, and when charging or remotely being accessed. Otherwise the car goes to sleep model fairly quickly once your key or phone is out of range.
 

Deacon

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It’s live when the car is in use, sentry/dog/climate mode is on, and when charging or remotely being accessed. Otherwise the car goes to sleep model fairly quickly once your key or phone is out of range.
So in some instance where you get pulled over or whatever and don’t want the detector on, your need to power it off via an added kill switch or manual intervention, yes? That’s not too bad, but I’d probably add a kill switch just to have easy, quick access to turn it off more subtly.
 

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