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INTRODUCTION. Working on a quick mount and wired power connection for a new V1gen2 in my 2020 Tesla Model 3 Performance, I have been taking pictures and will post the rest of the story, once it is done and working properly, with lessons learned.
In order to power the V1gen2 optimally-mounted below the rearview mirror, I decided to use a 12V source in the near-by dome light panel as shown here:
This 12V source has also appeared in other forum posts and videos. Constant 12V (vs. switched) is not ideal, but i had several work-around ideas (PIR to see the driver, vibration/acceleration sensors, quick mount, etc.). The extra components and work seemed easier than tearing some of the interior apart to get to a switched 12V connection, which seem rare and hard to access in the Model 3. It was far easier to find and connect to ignition-switched 12V to power V1s in previous ICE cars, including Saabs, Volvos, and Acuras. These cars could not change the behavior of 12V sources via software updates like the Tesla can do.
Across the yellow (pin 1) and black (pin 16) wires in the Tesla dome-light panel connector, I measured about 14 V with a Fluke DVM. Other videos or postings say it shuts off after the car goes to sleep. To investigate, i hooked up an LED+resistor that was visible from outside without waking up the car. The LED did stay on for at least 24 hours, even with the car not connected to its charger, so it must be constant. I later found a post that says it drops from 12V to 9V when the car sleeps. But the V1 would still draw current at 9V. The table (attached File) lists measurements with the V1gen2 on with bluetooth, but not receiving any signals. It is interesting that the current increases as the voltage decreases, exhibiting roughly constant power.
With a nearby 12V source identified, I built a “quick" mount to hang the V1gen2 under the mirror. I call it a quick mount because all you need to do is slide the V1 in/out. There is no RJ-11 connection to fuss with, so it can be done one-handed without looking. It works great mechanically. BUT the Tesla microphone, also in that panel with the dome lights, did not work so she quit responding to voice commands! But if I switched off the V1, the mike worked again. Huh?
I was going seek inputs from the forum before I invoke plan B and go find a better 12V source, like the one under the left edge of the dash that many recommend. BUT today, Mar 21, I went to measure the voltage and it was 14.7V, even with both dome lights and the V1 on and the main battery at 60% and not charging. JBV1 on my phone also read 14.62 Volts. And the microphone works! I will try it for a few more days before completing the story.
In order to power the V1gen2 optimally-mounted below the rearview mirror, I decided to use a 12V source in the near-by dome light panel as shown here:
Across the yellow (pin 1) and black (pin 16) wires in the Tesla dome-light panel connector, I measured about 14 V with a Fluke DVM. Other videos or postings say it shuts off after the car goes to sleep. To investigate, i hooked up an LED+resistor that was visible from outside without waking up the car. The LED did stay on for at least 24 hours, even with the car not connected to its charger, so it must be constant. I later found a post that says it drops from 12V to 9V when the car sleeps. But the V1 would still draw current at 9V. The table (attached File) lists measurements with the V1gen2 on with bluetooth, but not receiving any signals. It is interesting that the current increases as the voltage decreases, exhibiting roughly constant power.
With a nearby 12V source identified, I built a “quick" mount to hang the V1gen2 under the mirror. I call it a quick mount because all you need to do is slide the V1 in/out. There is no RJ-11 connection to fuss with, so it can be done one-handed without looking. It works great mechanically. BUT the Tesla microphone, also in that panel with the dome lights, did not work so she quit responding to voice commands! But if I switched off the V1, the mike worked again. Huh?
I was going seek inputs from the forum before I invoke plan B and go find a better 12V source, like the one under the left edge of the dash that many recommend. BUT today, Mar 21, I went to measure the voltage and it was 14.7V, even with both dome lights and the V1 on and the main battery at 60% and not charging. JBV1 on my phone also read 14.62 Volts. And the microphone works! I will try it for a few more days before completing the story.
