RL360c vs V1 Gen2 vs R7 BSM filtering

DC Fluid

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If I had to guess (and that's what it would be in this case, a guess), I'd say this one...so you might want to be careful about messing with things. Maybe someone else has actually tuned one of these things and can say for sure.

View attachment 175065
Sure looks like it, every one I opened its the brass screw like that.
Yes, mark it.
Turn on R7 Extended before turning.
Turn fractions, barely perceptible the first few times, as if that is the screw, you can blow right past what the detector will pick up with 1/4 turn.
 

VariableWave

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If I had to guess (and that's what it would be in this case, a guess), I'd say this one...so you might want to be careful about messing with things. Maybe someone else has actually tuned one of these things and can say for sure.

View attachment 175065

Thats the one... and my first thought vs another...

note to self.... very very small turns next time. I took it way past pickup frequencies to the detector. Have it at 24.203GHz figure a good +/- when warm.
 
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OBeerWANKenobi

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can a kr10 be made to be set a certain frequncy
I would imagine that almost all of them can. If you're brave enough to open it up and look inside you'll usually find a couple screws like the pictures above. And you can turn on one of your detectors and start transmitting well moving the screw around to change the frequency showing on the detector.
 

DC Fluid

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That the one... and my first thought vs another...

note to self.... very very small turns next time. I took it way past pickup frequencies to the detector. Have it at 24.203GHz figure a good +/- when warm.
On mine, colder makes frequency go up.
 

OBeerWANKenobi

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That the one... and my first thought vs another...

note to self.... very very small turns next time. I took it way past pickup frequencies to the detector. Have it at 24.203GHz figure a good +/- when warm.
Yeah, I've run into both problems while tuning..... Having that segment off and wondering why it stopped alerting and adjusting the screw too much. LOL
 

VariableWave

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Sure looks like it, every one I opened its the brass screw like that.
Yes, mark it.
Turn on R7 Extended before turning.
Turn fractions, barely perceptible the first few times, as if that is the screw, you can blow right past what the detector will pick up with 1/4 turn.

Too late... I turned a smig and it didn't change, so I went 1/2 turn and had to comeback the other way, and blew past the other side.... :dance:
 

DC Fluid

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That the one... and my first thought vs another...

note to self.... very very small turns next time. I took it way past pickup frequencies to the detector. Have it at 24.203GHz figure a good +/- when warm.
So the warnings came too little too late? ;)
 

OBeerWANKenobi

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Keep turning the screw until it warms up your food adequately and then back it off a notch.
 

DC Fluid

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Too late... I turned a smig and it didn't change, so I went 1/2 turn and had to comeback the other way, and blew past the other side.... :dance:
For some reason my GE antenna didn't work for the longest time turning the screw, like it was stuck being in one position so long. Then BAMM, blows right off the detection scale and I thought I broke it. LOL.
 

Bossdad71

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I would imagine that almost all of them can. If you're brave enough to open it up and look inside you'll usually find a couple screws like the pictures above. And you can turn on one of your detectors and start transmitting well moving the screw around to change the frequency showing on the detector.
thank u
 

VariableWave

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For some reason my GE antenna didn't work for the longest time turning the screw, like it was stuck being in one position so long. Then BAMM, blows right off the detection scale and I thought I broke it. LOL.
I thought the same, then I pulled out the tuning fork and it read the proper speed to fork.... just was lost to how bad I was out. Didn't think just a small turn was that sensitive. The R7 I did first to figure tune, then it was like it was trying to alert, as it was flashing... my battery was going dead, it was connected to. I grabbed another, and still nada... I pulled the R3 out, and was like shhhht. I eyeballed that last thought position after first and second turn too far to recenter... had it at 24.001.
 

Brainstorm69

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For some reason my GE antenna didn't work for the longest time turning the screw, like it was stuck being in one position so long. Then BAMM, blows right off the detection scale and I thought I broke it. LOL.
Yeah, you do need to be careful. I f'd up my Python II K-band antenna that had worked perfectly even after adjusting many times by going too far one day...
 
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DC Fluid

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I thought the same, then I pulled out the tuning fork and it read the proper speed to fork.... just was lost to how bad I was out. Didn't think just a small turn was that sensitive. The R7 I did first to figure tune, then it was like it was trying to alert, as it was flashing... my battery was going dead, it was connected to. I grabbed another, and still nada... I pulled the R3 out, and was like shhhht. I eyeballed that last thought position after first and second turn too far to recenter... had it at 24.001.
I did the same, I heard the doppler making a squeak, tried the tuning fork, got a speed, so back to the screw until R7 beeped again. Was hard cause I had it set to narrow (Extended is so much easier LOL)
Post automatically merged:

Actually, the GE was Ka and I had segmented, and got lost in between 5 and 8.
 
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Vortex

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Did you see pics where I insulated the circuit board and screw driver with electrical tape, to prevent any contact shorting out the Bushnell?
Some have bricked them by accidental touch while tuning.
My tape stays on while assembled now so it's just holding batteries in place while tuning.
I thought of drilling a hole for screw driver access and filling it with rubber grommet, but one of the case screws and molding id directly in the way, so not pretty if I do.
That's not a bad idea. I had a couple times where the gun turned off while working on the mod, but it was the plastic orange battery cover not being tight enough to close the circuit, haha. I also just finished it, but I didn't make the hole big enough. My small screwdriver can fit in, but it's not long enough to reach the screw. My longer screwdriver would work, but it's too wide to fit in the hole.. so I gotta make it wider. I'm doing it on video for fun and this is not going to be my smoothest video ever... the spring-loaded batteries shot out at one point and hit maybe an inch from a direct nutshot, lol.

Anyways, maybe we can move the radar gun frequency mod discussion to this thread. :)
 

jonup

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So I went for a test with City mode. Didn't adjust anything after switching from Expert. Tons of 24.160; like a handful. I got one at 24.102 and one 24.111 near a b6 A4. Didn't keep track of everyone. I would hope R360c and v1g2 do a better job with BSM and other falses.
Decent cop activity though. Got some decent picks. I even had my first good arrow experience. Got on the freeway and was approaching a round speed when I got a Ka from behind where I usually sometimes I pick scattered Ka for the surface streets even with my other radars. I slowed down and the signal strengthened. a couple of tunnels and a few turns and the signal disappeared so I headed for the horizon and that round number, when the signal came back and it was strong. merged in the middle lane between traffic and I saw the "light"(s) in my rear view mirror. I thought they were coming for me or some of the other fast moving traffic in front of me. Once they passed me and they kept going I thought they were after someone else. The got of the same exit I was, went up the highway/surface street for about a mile and turned around. I'm not sure if they were after someone or the MISP were just out having some fun at 100+. We'll never know.
Well, I know nothing about winter tires, including what speed rating they go up to. But that generally sounds like a lot to me. Especially if in wintery conditions...lol.
Winter tires vary widely. I will leave it out to your imagination not to incriminate myself. :cool:
 

DC Fluid

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Didn't adjust anything after switching from Expert
Can you clarify?
Expert menu means all the settings are available to you.
Basic menu is limited easier to use menu.
Neither makes any changes to your detector settings, they are just menu layout options.
 

jonup

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Can you clarify?
Expert menu means all the settings are available to you.
Basic menu is limited easier to use menu.
Neither makes any changes to your detector settings, they are just menu layout options.
I have expert with my settings - filters, reduce sensitivity, etc. I've gotten it pretty close to where I want it. So I just changed it from that to City. I didn't go into the City settings to adjust anything. I would guess it didn't pick up any of my filters, and sensitivity reductions from expert and I probably need to tune City too if I want it to stop falsing. It's just test and tune like on the drag strip. I will eventually get it where I want it. But wanted to test the stock City settings.
 

DC Fluid

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I have expert with my settings - filters, reduce sensitivity, etc. I've gotten it pretty close to where I want it. So I just changed it from that to City. I didn't go into the City settings to adjust anything. I would guess it didn't pick up any of my filters, and sensitivity reductions from expert and I probably need to tune City too if I want it to stop falsing. It's just test and tune like on the drag strip. I will eventually get it where I want it. But wanted to test the stock City settings.
Do you mean Advanced mode settings? City and Highway are fixed, Advanced is the mode you can change sensitivity by band for.
Filters stay where you set them on all 3 modes.
 

jonup

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Do you mean Advanced mode settings? City and Highway are fixed, Advanced is the mode you can change sensitivity by band for.
Filters stay where you set them on all 3 modes.
Yes, I meant in Expert menu I went from Advanced to City, but I didn't adjust anything when I switched to City.
 

DC Fluid

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The only thing that changes going Advance to city is sensitivity level.
City is [email protected]%, Advanced is what ever you set them to like K 50%, Highway is always 100%.
So your K Filter, TSF, Quiet Rides etc all stay the same no matter what mode you're in (C,A,H):thumbsup:
Post automatically merged:

You don't have to go into the menu to change City/Adv/Hwy.
Just long press Menu button, then scroll through the 3 settings.
 

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