Help needed with ALP install

HankLloydRight

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Hello everyone!

I finally got my ALP system installed by a professional shop this week. I bought the ALP part of the system used, but it's the newest black control box. The package included 5 RX sensors, control set, black box, GPS antenna, and BT module and all cables/connectors.

To go along with those used parts, I bought 2 new NR-DSP units (for front and rear), the ALP-RG3, and the HI-fi control set and speaker.

I had a number of initial problems which I solved by doing updating the firmware, 'reset to defaults' and other troubleshooting (getting stats, etc).. But a few problems still remain.

First, I have is that I have 3 RX sensors in the front, and 2 RX in the rear (see photo below), but the stats page only says:
Connected sensors (memorized)Front1, Front2, Rear1
Connected sensors (actual)Front1, Front2, Rear1

Is this normal for 5 RX sensors?

Second, the stats page says:
Last error6 - Control box defective; service required. Error may be neglected if it does not repeat after reseting.

Is this normal? Through several resets to defaults and a firmware update, the error is still there.


Third, it appears that there's something wrong with either the Bluetooth module, or the short cable that attaches to the BT module. The BT itself works, and I can access and control the unit fully with the iOS mobile app. The problem is that when I plug in the Hi-fi control set, I don't get any activity -- no LED, the buttons don't work, and there's no sound out of the Hifi speaker. But if I plug the Hifi control set directly into the black box, it appears to work totally normally (LED works, menu and voice announcements out of the speaker). So while the BT module works for BT, it isn't working with the Hifi Control set. I also have the old used (non-HiFi) control set that came with the used equipment, and that also doesn't work when plugged into the BT module. I didn't try using that in the main control box, but I can if needed. From my testing, it appears the faulty(weak) link is the BT module or cable. What can I do in this case?

I can post the URL link for the Statistics page if that would help.

Thank you for any assistance.

Photo of control box. (Note: I swapped the center front RX into F2 and the right front RX into F3 after this photo was taken and also did another reset to defaults. The stats page above is current).

1615676550077.png

Post automatically merged:

Additional info: The NR-DSP seems to be working normally:

Radar antennas (RG3 Plugin)
Radar Antenna F1 version201.209
Radar Antenna R version201.209
 

Smason

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I think that activity is normal for the control pad when the BT is active.
 

thebravo

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It is not normal for it to only show those few sensors when more are connected. Also I did note that the cables are labeled LRC which I assume is left, right and center. Center must be in port F2, left and right need to be in 1&3. Make sure the twistlock connectors are tight and the cables are fully inserted. I would enable parking mode and check to make sure all the sensors react when something is placed in front of them.

The error 6 issue is just the last issue the CPU had, it doesn't mean it's a current issue, that will show until something else causes an error at which point the new error will post there and stay.
 

89q2hiu54warefs

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I don't have my ALP yet, but in the research I've been doing prior to arrival, I read that it's a known issue that if the Bluetooth module is active, certain features such as 1/2 buttons on the keypad, or audio may not function, until Bluetooth is disabled. This seems to be exacerbated if you have more than a 2+1 install on your vehicle.

Others may be able to correct/clarify/expand on my comment.
 

HankLloydRight

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Also I did note that the cables are labeled LRC which I assume is left, right and center. Center must be in port F2, left and right need to be in 1&3.

I did note that I swapped them back into that order in the caption above the photo. Front center is in F2 currently.

I would enable parking mode and check to make sure all the sensors react when something is placed in front of them.

Good idea, thanks.

I read that it's a known issue that if the Bluetooth module is active, certain features such as 1/2 buttons on the keypad, or audio may not function, until Bluetooth is disabled.

Huh.. if I knew that, I wouldn't have bought the Hifi control set at all.

How do you do JTK if the control set buttons aren't working when BT is enabled?
 

HankLloydRight

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So problems 2 and 3 appear to be solved.
For problem #1, I'll have to take it back to the install shop to diagnose the missing front and rear sensors.

How do I go about getting Perspex convers for the rear RX sensors? Is that a custom build sort of thing?
 

thebravo

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I did note that I swapped them back into that order in the caption above the photo. Front center is in F2 currently.



Good idea, thanks.



Huh.. if I knew that, I wouldn't have bought the Hifi control set at all.

How do you do JTK if the control set buttons aren't working when BT is enabled?
you can JTK by tapping on your phone screen when hit with laser, or I believe the menu button on the control pad also works as a JTK even though the pad doesn't appear to work, if your phone disconnects from bluetooth then the HIFI should automatically switch over and take control of the system.
 

HankLloydRight

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Center must be in port F2, left and right need to be in 1&3.

Just want to confirm, that's only for a TX head in F2, correct? I have three RX heads for the front so they can go into any F1,F2, or F3 port, correct?

Also, what's the backstory on having the HiFi control set OR Bluetooth active at any one time (except now for JTK and power)? That seems like a unfortunate constraint to have. Why not make it an option for the user to decide which way they want it (exclusive or simultaneous)? Like I mentioned, if I knew that before I bought the new equipment, I wouldn't have paid for the Hifi control set. I just thought it would work in tandem with the mobile app, not "one or the other". I didn't see this mentioned on the website or anywhere while I was researching the products. I'd like to have a hybrid -- use the mobile app for the visual displays, and the hifi speaker for the voice/audio outputs. Is that ever going to be possible?
 
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thebravo

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Just want to confirm, that's only for a TX head in F2, correct? I have three RX heads for the front so they can go into any F1,F2, or F3 port, correct?
No, even with three rx the center head needs to be in port F2. The reason is when encountering some dragoneye guns the center head (port F2) will go into a receive only mode, and the outer two heads (F1 and F3) will fire back. If you don't have them in that order you will end up with your receiving head on one side and you will get terrible dragoneye performance, it doesn't matter for any other gun but for dragoneye it needs to be center head in F2. The tx setup (which you don't have) also needs to be on F2 as well.


As far as the Bluetooth/hifi conundrum, I think the Bluetooth module came out later than the original control pad, for a long time the hifi was completely killed when bluetooth was connected, they were finally able to find a way to allow jtk from the control pad. As to why in later revisions of hardware they haven't changed it I'm not sure, I'm sure originally they had limitations based on the original hardware not having been designed with bluetooth in mind.... It's still a good idea to have a control pad where you can reach it, that way in case you have a bluetooth disconnect at some point you still have a way to kill the system as the system will revert fully to hifi when bluetooth disconnects or if you don't have your phone with you. The only time personally I recommend bluetooth for a control pad is with NR as you need it to have the frequency displayed. It is also nice for updates and settings....
 

HankLloydRight

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Ok, so I've diagnosed one of the bad laser sensor heads -- the front center sensor seems to be dead. I have three cables running from the front bumper into the cabin, and all three runs are live (Front1, Front2, and Front3) -- but I can't get the center sensor to be recognized at all. I'm doing a "Reset Defaults" each time and I can't get the center sensor to register on any of the three lines (the Left and Right sensors register fine). How often do these RX sensor heads go bad?

I haven't diagnosed the non-responsive rear sensor yet, I'll do that at the pro shop on Tuesday. Hopefully that's just a cable problem and not another dead RX head.

Worst case scenario I'll just run without the front center sensor RX head and only one rear RX head. I've already spent $3600 on getting this system installed (including two new NR-DSP,RG3, and Hifi control set), not sure I can spring for one or possibly two replacement RX sensors.
 

HankLloydRight

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Well, we confirmed that I have two bad RX heads out of 5. Center Front and Left Rear.

I swapped the L+R sensors in the rear and the R sensor which was previously detected on Rear1, was then picked up on Rear2 and the L sensor still not picked up at all. So that tells us the cabling both from the front of the car and the rear to the main CPU is good (which is a big relief), but now I have to deal with two dead RX heads.

If I can only afford to replace one sensor, what's the lesser risk, running with 2 out 3 sensors in the front (center missing) or 1 out of 2 in the rear?
 

NorEaster18

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Well, we confirmed that I have two bad RX heads out of 5. Center Front and Left Rear.

I swapped the L+R sensors in the rear and the R sensor which was previously detected on Rear1, was then picked up on Rear2 and the L sensor still not picked up at all. So that tells us the cabling both from the front of the car and the rear to the main CPU is good (which is a big relief), but now I have to deal with two dead RX heads.

If I can only afford to replace one sensor, what's the lesser risk, running with 2 out 3 sensors in the front (center missing) or 1 out of 2 in the rear?
If you're in CT like what your location says, you'll be good to run just two Rx heads per side for now. That will cover you for every gun that you are likely to see in CT. Obviously, three Rx on the front is the best option, but you can get away with two for now.

If you decide to do this, make sure your two front heads are plugged into ports F1 and F2.

After having the two heads I purchased used go dead (one killing the CPU), I no longer recommend buying used ALP heads. It's just a safer bet all around to purchase new from BRD and get the warranty.
 

HankLloydRight

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If you decide to do this, make sure your two front heads are plugged into ports F1 and F2.

So just to confirm, if I run only two front heads (left and right), it's F1 and F2, but if I run three heads (Left, Center, Right) the center goes into F2 and the L+R go into F1 and F3.


If you're in CT like what your location says, you'll be good to run just two Rx heads per side for now. That will cover you for every gun that you are likely to see in CT.

I am in CT, but I drive frequently to NY/NJ/PA/MA.

Occasionally to MD/DC and also once a year to NC through VA.

Any problem areas there?

After having the two heads I purchased used go dead (one killing the CPU), I no longer recommend buying used ALP heads. It's just a safer bet all around to purchase new from BRD and get the warranty.

How often do the RX heads go bad and why do they fail?
 
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NorEaster18

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So just to confirm, if I run only two front heads (left and right), it's F1 and F2, but if I run three heads (Left, Center, Right) the center goes into F2 and the L+R go into F1 and F3.
Correct!
I am in CT, but I drive frequently to NY/NJ/PA/MA.

Occasionally to MD/DC and also once a year to NC through VA.

Any problem areas there?
MA, NY, and MD have DragonEye in some spots, and I wouldn't rely on a dual Rx for protection against it. Back when I ran a dual Rx up front, it was IPT against multiple copies of DE. Dual Rx should be fine in the interim against any other gun with a good install, but triple Rx or 2Rx/1Tx definitely offers much more substantial protection. You can PM me if you want more specific info about locations in New England, especially CT and MA.
How often do the RX heads go bad and why do they fail?
No real consistency to answer this question with. My first head failed about a month after I purchased the system. It gave plenty of warning from the ALP's system error check, so I knew it was coming. My second head died back in January, about 9 months after purchase. This one didn't offer any warning and actually had an internal short, which I only discovered after frying two CPUs and tracing it with a multimeter. I ended up having to buy a new CPU as well as a new Rx head.

As of now, basically all of my system has been replaced with new parts. BRD has been extremely helpful in troubleshooting the problems, but it's still not fun having to buy new components.
 

HankLloydRight

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Ok, I've broken down and decided to buy two new ALP heads to replace the busted used ones I got (instead of messing around with more used equipment).

I suspect it's nearly a no-brainer to spend $99 more for a front TX head, yes?
 

Flonase

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I suspect it's nearly a no-brainer to spend $99 more for a front TX head, yes?
Unless you have a vehicle with an extremely large front area that can be targeted, then yes, the TX head is worth the extra $99.
 

HankLloydRight

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Unless you have a vehicle with an extremely large front area that can be targeted, then yes, the TX head is worth the extra $99.

Thank you. I have a Tesla Model S with the old-style nosecone.
(stock photo, not my actual car)

1617629473287.png

Th
 

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