Which V1 gen1 accessories work with gen2 ?

radark

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My V1 gen1 (pre K guard) has been sent to V1 for an upgrade to gen2. When I get the gen2, can it just go into my car as is (after changing to the new suction cup mount?)

I currently have :
  1. the original V1 wiring and splitter going to the fuse box and
  2. the original (pre mute button) concealed display.
Does the wiring/splitter need to be changed?
Will the old concealed display still work?
 

WildOne

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My V1 gen1 (pre K guard) has been sent to V1 for an upgrade to gen2. When I get the gen2, can it just go into my car as is (after changing to the new suction cup mount?)

I currently have :
  1. the original V1 wiring and splitter going to the fuse box and
  2. the original (pre mute button) concealed display.
Does the wiring/splitter need to be changed?
Will the old concealed display still work?
Yes, it should all just work. The old mounts don't work on the new one, but the cord will and the old display may. The only thing is there are only 6 LEDs on the new one vs 8 on the old, so not all will light. And there is no bluetooth indicator. I know that the newer but still Gen1 display will work, but I'm not sure about the pre mute version.
 

DifferentialT

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Yes, what @WildOne said in more detail plus the following from @Vortex:

Newer ESP Gen1 concealed displays are mostly compatible with the Valentine Gen2.
 
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Bloovy One

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The pre-mute button Concealed Display is pre-ESP. I don't believe that will work. A few have tested the earlier pre-ESP Concealed Displays with mute buttons (so, newer than the one in question here) and they don't work with the Gen2.

Only the Gen1 ESP Concealed Displays and the Gen2 Concealed Displays work.

Also, depending on the power supply installed, there could be issues. I had to swap out my 20+ year old (memory retention feature) power supply with the one supplied in the Gen2 box. It did power up, but there were a few weird behaviors.
 

radark

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Sounds like my remote display wont work then. I don't remember hearing about "memory retention" so I am guessing I have to replace that power component. If stuff doesn't work, that's okay. I just don't want anything to burn up due to connecting the old stuff to the new gen2 detector.

Although I plan on connecting to JBV1, I would like the remote display to be used on shorter trips where I may not want to make the JBV1 connection (in order that the V1 stays dark and and yet I can still see the arrows.)
 

Bloovy One

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Same reason I use a Concealed Display still. I have it, it's installed (custom), and I want the detector dark as much as possible.

I will say though that the Gen2 display looks really nice! :)
 

radark

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Thanks to the post by @SwankPeRFection , I went looking on the V1 page for compatibility information. Here is the link where I found it: https://www.valentine1.com/store/. I didn't find information on the original concealed display since they no longer carry that particular one. I'll need to verify what version of the power connector I have.
 

bovatec

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BOB...Not for use on the V1 Gen2? anyone know why?
 

Bloovy One

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There's a built-in "BOB" in the Gen2. It will also operate from 6-35v. :)
 

radark

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Got my V1 Gen2 today. Plugged it in to the wiring I had in the car for the old V1 (one just before K guard was introduced) and the Gen2 powered up and works properly. As to be expected, my "pre ESP" remote display did not work.

For mounting I use the suction cup mount, but I use screws into a plate above the visor in the car. Although the mount is new to accommodate the wider Gen2, the other dimensions are the same. All I had to do was unbolt the old mount, bolt in the new one and slide in the V1.

This has been a very easy transition but I may have to get a remote display as I was very fond of it for many years. I know I can use an app, but for just "get in and go" trips, the remote would work well for me.
 

ALS

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Having JBV1 on your phone is like having a hidden remote display.

The V1 stays blacked out and all visual alerts go to the phone.
 

jester7677

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So if I am using a BOB and an LE to connect to my iPhone, I remove them but can keep the rest hard wired cable, yes?
 

Bloovy One

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So if I am using a BOB and an LE to connect to my iPhone, I remove them but can keep the rest hard wired cable, yes?
Should be able to. Take BOB out and plug directly into the Main port of the power supply. Unplug the V1C-LE from the Accessory port.

Depending on the age of your power supply, you might need to change that as well. I had one from 2002 that gave me a little trouble and the V1 parts section of the website said that it wasn't compatible. Installing the newest power supply fixed my issues.
 

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