New death machine time - looking for buying tips

Biohazardous

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The time(more like the want) has come to buy a new motorcycle. I really enjoy my zx and plan to stay in that brand and line, having talked with other riders and research I feel good about buying Kawasaki again. Anyways I want 2019 or newer(want that standard quick-shifter). So my question is has anyone bought a new bike within the last few years or used and have any pointers when dealing that are relevant to sport bikes?

I am pretty savvy at looking at used bikes and seeing how they were maintained and ridden but not so good at haggling. Anyone got pointers on talking bike price down based on marks, scratches, drops, low speed crash, counter-arguments to aftermarkets installed(slip-on, tail tidy, blinkers,etc). I honestly have no care to what mods are installed and I don't feel they add value to a street bike other than vanity, nice touches but doesn't tickle me jimmies to pay extra for them on a used machine?


And for brand new dealer bikes any tips on destination fees, set-up fees, etc?
 

Smason

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Anyone got pointers on talking bike price down based on marks, scratches, drops, low speed crash, counter-arguments to aftermarkets installed(slip-on, tail tidy, blinkers,etc). I honestly have no care to what mods are installed and I don't feel they add value to a street bike other than vanity, nice touches but doesn't tickle me jimmies to pay extra for them on a used machine?
Can't say anything about dealers that hasn't already been said by people more qualified than me. But I've bought plenty of vehicles from private parties, generally with good results. My advice is not geared toward flipping for profit or pulling the wool over anyone's eyes, this is just general stuff on trying to get a fair deal on what you want with a minimum of drama which sounds like what you're after.

Before you look at a bike:
Rule #1 is be willing to walk away. Keep that in mind at all times. Genuinely consider walking away during the negotiation. Sellers can often tell who is genuinely on the fence and who has already decided to buy.

Rule #2 is similarly important: Do your research and know the market. If you know what a bike SHOULD cost you'll be comfortable and confident in stating that what you're offering is fair. You are more convincing when you are fully confident.

And "should cost" isn't just what you feel like you want to pay for it. If you think a price is high, prove it to yourself with comparable examples. In some cases you may learn that the overall market disagrees with how you value things.

It also helps to imagine that you are selling this bike instead of buying it. What would you ask for it, and how low would you ultimately go?

Get a feel for the seller based on the ad. If the ad reads like it was written by someone shady, disagreeable, and/or delusional, it probably was. If that's the case, don't bother. Only go to look at bikes that seem like a decently reasonable asking price from a reasonable person.

Regarding mods:
You can usually dismiss a lot of the vanity touches without being insulting. Just something like "You know how it is, everyone's gotta set their bike up their own way, so I always end up re-doing 90% of that stuff anyhow." He doesn't have to agree with your logic, but you can make your position pretty clear without having to argue the particular merits of what he's done.

And there are sometimes exceptions to the "mods don't add value" rule. If a high percentage of buyers will pay more for a certain mod, you may have to allow some value for it or else seek out one that is stock instead. If the market is valuing mods more than you are and if stock examples are rare, you might find that buying new makes more sense.

Regarding scratches, scrapes, etc:
It's ok to show a bit of concern or disappointment if the condition is less appealing than it seemed in pictures: "Oh, ouch, looks like there's kind of a nasty scrape there. I didn't notice that when I saw the ad." But don't waste time playing rental-car inspector over every little nick if the overall condition is accurate to what was represented in the ad.

If the in-person condition is enough of an issue for you that you think his price is substantially too high, you can try a script like "Well, it's got more cosmetic issues than I'd hoped when I saw the ad. But think I can work with that if you can work with me a bit on price. If you could do [whatever price you think is fair minus a small bit of negotiating room] I'm ready to [give you cash/write you a check/bless your Venmo]."

Then let him counter-offer you back up slightly so he can save face, and hopefully his counter will be right around your target price. If he says "Nope, the obvious damage that I failed to disclose in my ad is already priced in," so be it. See rule #1 and be ready to walk.

You can try a last effort with something like, "I'd have liked to have gotten a deal done, but with [X, Y, and Z issues] I just can't go that high. I guess I could come up a little to [the actual price you think is fair with the negotiation padding taken out] but that's my best offer."

If that doesn't work, so be it. "Thanks for taking the time to show it to me. Sorry we couldn't do a deal."
 

Freebird

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I opted for brand new.

I'm starting to dislike you 🤣.
Very envious 😁. Beautiful bike! I've been itching for a new one and trying to decide 600 or 1000. Then Suzuki announced the new Hayabusa this week. Hayabusa would be a hoot but I am sure I would miss the nimbleness of the 600 or 1000 in the twisty stuff.

Stay safe and hopefully you can get some warm weather soon!
 

studio1930

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