V1G2 - is it bad to create these custom frequencies to block constant Acura MDX BSM false alerts?

Bloovy One

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I've seen alerts in the 23.9xx range with my Gen1. I don't recall any of them being proven to be legitimate.
 

Brainstorm69

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Little frequency range test of the V1G1 in Euro mode and R7 in Extended K mode. Unfortunately, I think I broke something in my adjustable K-band antenna going for the upper range...it's now refusing to put out a signal.

V1G1 in Euro Mode
  • Lower limit - ~23.911
  • Upper limit - ~24.272
R7 in Extended K mode
  • Lower limit - ~23.900
  • Upper limit - ~24.251

 
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WildOne

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Little frequency range test of the V1G1 in Euro mode and R7 in Extended K mode. Unfortunately, I think I broke something in my adjustable K-band antenna going for the upper range...it's now refusing to put out a signal.
Hopefully a little rest and it will come back to life...
What version is on the V1G1? The top end is consistent with mine, but I had little difference with Euro engaged. Yours looks more like my Gen2 range on the lower end.
 

cihkal

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So, other than "mistuned" radar guns, is there any reason to search below 24.050? Is there a known threat that lives down there normally? I may run for awhile with this lower limit to see what I pick up.
If you see Redflex or Gatso speed enforcement equipment (automated) in your area it may be worth extending the lower K range a bit to see what you pick up. I don't believe the equipment should be dipping below 24.050 in the states, but there are reports of such things happening.

Otherwise you'll likely pick up some random K junk and wish you didn't haha.

In Canada it's a different story with MRCD, but I think that's on VR's to-do list after they're satisfied with BSM/K performance.
 
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Brainstorm69

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Hopefully a little rest and it will come back to life...
What version is on the V1G1? The top end is consistent with mine, but I had little difference with Euro engaged. Yours looks more like my Gen2 range on the lower end.
H/W version 1.85. FW 3.8945
 

Brainstorm69

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I need to figure out the best way to keep the nut outlined in red below from moving. I think it was secured before I went too far and now I need it to stay stationary when I turn the screw. I don't deal with these sorts of issues much, so any advice would be appreciated.

Problem Nut.jpg
 

WildOne

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H/W version 1.85. FW 3.8945
Ah, a spring chicken! Different hardware and almost a decade younger than mine. They probably extended it when they put in ESP.
Post automatically merged:

I need to figure out the best way to keep the nut outlined in red below from moving. I think it was secured before I went too far and now I need it to stay stationary when I turn the screw. I don't deal with these sorts of issues much, so any advice would be appreciated.

View attachment 169098
OK, that looks like a lock nut. In theory, you should back that off, adjust the screw and then tighten it back down to hold that position. In practice, that may give you enough wobble to retune it a lot as you tighten the nut. I assume that your only turning the set screw a few degrees to change the frequency? It is probably holding tension on the screw to keep it centered at one location in all axis, x, y & z.
I would probably just keep a wrench on it and back it off a little as your turning the screw. Then retighten. I wouldn't put anything like locktite on it. That could creep into the cavity and really mess things up!
 
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Brainstorm69

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Ah, a spring chicken! Different hardware and almost a decade younger than mine. They probably extended it when they put in ESP.
Post automatically merged:


OK, that looks like a lock nut. In theory, you should back that off, adjust the screw and then tighten it back down to hold that position. In practice, that may give you enough wobble to retune it a lot as you tighten the nut. I assume that your only turning the set screw a few degrees to change the frequency? It is probably holding tension on the screw to keep it centered at one location in all axis, x, y & z.
I would probably just keep a wrench on it and back it off a little as your turning the screw. Then retighten. I wouldn't put anything like locktite on it. That could creep into the cavity and really mess things up!
Well, the problem was that I wanted to retain the ability to "tune" the frequency by turning the screw from the hole I drilled in the bottom of the antenna. And the lock nut kept moving every time I tried to loosen the screw. But I won't have to worry about that anymore. Broke the head of the screw off accidentally. Oh well, I do have another MPH Python II K-band antenna I can try this with. *sigh*
 
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WildOne

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Well, the problem was that I wanted to retain the ability to "tune" the frequency by turning the screw from the hole I drilled in the bottom of the antenna. And the lock nut kept moving every time I tried to loosen the screw. But I won't have to worry about that anymore. Broke the head of the screw off accidentally. Oh well, I do have another MPH Python II K-band antenna I can try this with. *sigh*
Ouch! Maybe cut a slot in the remaining screw? A dremel comes in handy for this. You may be able to replace the screw with another one. It may be a normal screw or it may be a smooth cylinder on the end(larger or smaller than the screw). Depending on how brave you are...

Can you cut a larger hole and put a small socket in to turn the nut while using a small screw driver to turn the screw inside of the socket?
 

Brainstorm69

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Ouch! Maybe cut a slot in the remaining screw? A dremel comes in handy for this. You may be able to replace the screw with another one. It may be a normal screw or it may be a smooth cylinder on the end(larger or smaller than the screw). Depending on how brave you are...

Can you cut a larger hole and put a small socket in to turn the nut while using a small screw driver to turn the screw inside of the socket?
Oh, I think I can still get the remaining portion of the screw out if I want to. But where it is right now (right around 24.151) is still usable. I just can't really adjust it anymore except to go down in frequency a bit by tightening the lock nut a little bit. If I try going the other way, things get too loose and unstable.

It's possible I could get another screw, although I question whether it would be readily available at the local hardware store. Probably could find it online if I knew what to get. Maybe I should just try calling MPH.
 

WildOne

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Oh, I think I can still get the remaining portion of the screw out if I want to. But where it is right now (right around 24.151) is still usable. I just can't really adjust it anymore except to go down in frequency a bit by tightening the lock nut a little bit. If I try going the other way, things get too loose and unstable.

It's possible I could get another screw, although I question whether it would be readily available at the local hardware store. Probably could find it online if I knew what to get. Maybe I should just try calling MPH.
If it works for you I would leave it. There is no guarantee that it is a normal screw. I'd give it a 50/50 chance. MPH should be able to help you on that though. They can at least tell you if you can just back it out to take a look at it.
 

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Is mph made in US? If so probably not metric.
 

WildOne

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Is mph made in US? If so probably not metric.
I think they are a US company, but that doesn't necessarily mean anything. It could still be metric, depending on where the part is made. Lots of parts are metric now.
 

BaileyAB

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Those are my boxes. Extremely silent never been wrong in 5 years.
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Capture+_2021-01-01-21-31-03.png
 

Bloovy One

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I like the boxes and announcements but K band is too low for many of the newer K guns I've seen in East Tennessee.
 

DrHow

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Your lucky it picked it up. Technically the V1 only goes down to 24.050. I know mine goes a little below the spec, but I will have to see if it works that low. Many years ago, I was pulled over with no indication of radar at all. Long story short, he had mistuned the gun so much it was outside of the detection band. When I called him on it, he let me go without even a warning. This is why I always run full bandwidth, no filters.
Dalton GA and parts north to TN border have K band working on I75 down that low. Multiple of us have seen it. FYI if you are even in that area. G2 WILL pick those up (well, mine do).
 

LouG

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My Gen 1's accepted sweeps down to 23.950, and I've had Redlex alerts at 24.010.
 

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