A thought on Theia wiring for installation.

Penumbrian

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Something occurred to me today as I was contemplating Theia.

Even with a windshield mount detector, many like to install the wiring for a clean installation. In some installations, pulling a USB plug might be a hindrance. With modular plugs it was no big deal to cut a plug off and crimp a replacement on, but USB is not as straightforward.

I don't have experience rewiring USB stuff... it might be useful to know what options are available for USB plugs, if someone runs into that issue in an installation.
 

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Something occurred to me today as I was contemplating Theia.

Even with a windshield mount detector, many like to install the wiring for a clean installation. In some installations, pulling a USB plug might be a hindrance. With modular plugs it was no big deal to cut a plug off and crimp a replacement on, but USB is not as straightforward.

I don't have experience rewiring USB stuff... it might be useful to know what options are available for USB plugs, if someone runs into that issue in an installation.
That is an excellent observation. It's so easy to cut a modular to length and terminate it. IIRC the modular connector won't support the current Theia requires. If I remember 30W correctly and I'm not sure, but if so that's 6A at 5V. That can lead to substantial drop on a 5V line.
 

Buz

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Hopefully Theia ships with a hardwire kit like the V1 does.
 

riseboi

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have you seen this thread?

 

Penumbrian

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I'm thinking specifically about just the plug, if one would run into an installation where it was not possible to pull the plug through and replacing one would be needed. I'm sure I could order some random USB-C connectors from Mouser or somewhere, but just wondering if anyone has any experience or insight. There might be a particular style of plug that would be relatively easy to put on a cable.
 

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I'm thinking specifically about just the plug, if one would run into an installation where it was not possible to pull the plug through and replacing one would be needed. I'm sure I could order some random USB-C connectors from Mouser or somewhere, but just wondering if anyone has any experience or insight. There might be a particular style of plug that would be relatively easy to put on a cable.

Question why? No really, it is just like any other hardwire job. Nobody made you cut the module jack off to make a custom length and with a minimal amount of planning I would bet you really didn't need to either. But lastly and worse case scenario that is what they make zip ties for! Besides, USB-C cables come in so many lengths, why would anybody need to cut one? Really, if a one meter is to short than use a two meter and either move the power connection point so the excess cable gets used or keep the same point and use a zip tie under the dash or in the headliner.

THERE IS ABSOLUTELY NO REASON TO NEED TO CUT A USB-C CABLE TO LENGTH WITH ALL THE PLACES TO EITHER HARDWIRE FROM OR CABLE LENGTHS AVAILABLE EVEN IF USING A CIG ADAPTER.

.
 

mpatel1080

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Something occurred to me today as I was contemplating Theia.

Even with a windshield mount detector, many like to install the wiring for a clean installation. In some installations, pulling a USB plug might be a hindrance. With modular plugs it was no big deal to cut a plug off and crimp a replacement on, but USB is not as straightforward.

I don't have experience rewiring USB stuff... it might be useful to know what options are available for USB plugs, if someone runs into that issue in an installation.

It sounds like you want to hardwire the detector, rather than plugging it into a USB port in the car...in this case there will be a hardwire kit. Yes USB cables can be spliced, there are 3 or 4 wires inside the sheath, you can cut and splice the wire with solder or butt splices...you would only be interested in the power transfer, so dont really need to worry about the shielding for data.
 

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Question why? No really, it is just like any other hardwire job. Nobody made you cut the module jack off to make a custom length and with a minimal amount of planning I would bet you really didn't need to either. But lastly and worse case scenario that is what they make zip ties for! Besides, USB-C cables come in so many lengths, why would anybody need to cut one? Really, if a one meter is to short than use a two meter and either move the power connection point so the excess cable gets used or keep the same point and use a zip tie under the dash or in the headliner.

THERE IS ABSOLUTELY NO REASON TO NEED TO CUT A USB-C CABLE TO LENGTH WITH ALL THE PLACES TO EITHER HARDWIRE FROM OR CABLE LENGTHS AVAILABLE EVEN IF USING A CIG ADAPTER.

.
Has nothing to do with length, just that for some installations it might be problematic to pull the plug instead of a bare wire.
 

Bloovy One

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Depending on the vehicle it might be easier to pull the A-pillar cover off, etc. rather than mess with the integrity of the USB-C cable. (In most vehicles it's pretty easy anyway)
Also, I would suggest that any excess be looped like a water hose. Folding cables is not as "kind" to them.

This is one of those manufacturer design choices that will have to be lived with I'm afraid.

It's not that a modular cable couldn't be made that could handle the power. It's that there are a ton of manufactured modular cables out there that can't.
If Radenso wants to be able to use premade cables, USB-C fits their purposes. (By default)

What's going to suck is when a USB-C cable gets damaged and can't easily be re-terminated.
 
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fishing66

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Something occurred to me as well while Thinking about Theia. It's Saturday, the supermarket is open and they have pies.
 

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Has nothing to do with length, just that for some installations it might be problematic to pull the plug instead of a bare wire.

Incorrect, you are thinking of the WRONG end. The BIG end (USB-A) will either be at the hardwire power point or at the USB Cig Adapter point! A USB-C end isn't any harder to snake then a wire much less a power cable with a module phone jack. Plus there is the bonus if one has to pull it back some there is not phone jack clip to get caught on anything.

This is over thinking but especially over worrying.

.
 

goblin

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I hard-wired my Vantrue cam last week with their own hardwire kit and I have to say if I could do it - any monkey can.

As for the difficulty of pulling a usb-c vs pulling a cut cable - I don't see much of a difference given the small size of a usb-c plug. Fishing for the cable will be much less work than fishing that went into finding this as a potential problem :)
 

Bloovy One

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USB-C being a little flatter than RJ-11 might be a benefit to those that haven't ever cut the end off and re-terminated to run cables.
 

SwankPeRFection

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Some of you guys just overthink some things to beyond belief. USBC is pretty small and if you’ve got a cable issue, just buy another one of the appropriate length. They come in like a bunch of different sizes. 🙄 And just get USBC on both ends. The newer adapters for QC power have more than enough juice to power this thing if you get a reputable brand. I already have mine, it’s low profile and doesn’t stick out.
 

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Incorrect, you are thinking of the WRONG end. The BIG end (USB-A) will either be at the hardwire power point or at the USB Cig Adapter point!
That unnecessarily presumes a “big end” when in reality it’ll probably be best to use a cable with a USB-C connector on both ends.

A USB-C end isn't any harder to snake then a wire much less a power cable with a module phone jack. Plus there is the bonus if one has to pull it back some there is not phone jack clip to get caught on anything.
Correct on both points!
 

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