When your detector alerts to KA Band do you hit the brakes immediately?

When do you drop anchor?


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Euurx

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Generally, I like to do it by the time I have the Uniden voice say Ka Band "frequency"
 

deanoobaby

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last time i seen KA was when i needed to mount my detector on its side for the 6Fs but before that having the detector horizontal it was slam on the brakes on first innitial allert
 

JayDog

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Let off gas and evaluate. If needed I’ll hit the paddle shifter instead of brakes to eliminate brake lights.
 

OBeerWANKenobi

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V1G2: Brake immediately since currently a single blip and point blank I/O alert the same until 3 seconds in or so.

R7: If a single blip, let off and cover the brakes while evaluating and coasting to PSL. If full-tilt alert, drop anchor.

RMR: Immediately look for a likely place to pull over and wait for the LEO to come and hand me a ticket.
 

nighthawk

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Been seeing a lot of I/O lately, so I'm typically harder on the brakes than usual.

The more time I spend with a radar detector, the more my behaviour changes with it as I learn how it reacts to different situations.

On corners and tighter places I will usually be on the brakes, but I will scrub speed or take of cruise when I get a few blips on long straight aways.
 

Signal Environment

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If I'm flying, say PSL+25 or better, there's probably gonna be some immediate braking. If my speed is merely "brisk" and the alert is weak, probably ease off and evaluate. As others have stated, the reaction will vary a lot based on the situation.

RDs are legal where I am, so I'm not shy about hitting the brakes right away if the situation seems urgent. But most of the time I find it's not necessary.
 

MellowBob

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I use my parking brake lever to slow down without lighting up the rear lights. Too bad the manual levers are going away with newer cars.
 

Gatortotz

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Lots of good responses guys.
It's interesting to hear everyone's different methods to deal with alerts. Interesting to see a pretty even split across the options I presented, and NOBODY chooses to wait until their alert is full tilt :)
 

jon5

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I think i might point out that i've heard of cops who are less likely to pull you over if they see you slowing down when you see them. So eliminating brake lights may not be your best option when you're caught red-handed.

In my opinion, eliminating evidence (acquisition of speed) is more important than evading the attention. Having said that, radar detectors aren't illegal here.
 

benzr

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V1G2: Brake immediately since currently a single blip and point blank I/O alert the same until 3 seconds in or so.

R7: If a single blip, let off and cover the brakes while evaluating and coasting to PSL. If full-tilt alert, drop anchor.

RMR: Immediately look for a likely place to pull over and wait for the LEO to come and hand me a ticket.
WELL STATED AND CONCISELY PUT !!! 👍👍🤓🤓

Agreed 🎃🎃

Benzr
 

FastStevie

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I think i might point out that i've heard of cops who are less likely to pull you over if they see you slowing down when you see them. So eliminating brake lights may not be your best option when you're caught red-handed.
More than once I have been targeted (doing an 180 and following me for 3 miles is pretty obvious targeting) and failed to react each time.

My theory is that IF...... the big IF..... I react in any way, such as tapping the brakes, then I must have been going faster than my current speed. Therefore my current 41 in the 40 has always been 41 and LEO's eyes must have been deceiving him thinking I was doing 55.

Of course getting down to 41 from 55 without making it obvious is the trick. So is no constant peaking in the rearview.
 

Super Dave

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As others have said. Depends on many factors. If I’m in familiar territory and not too far over the limit I will coast and assess. If I’m in unfamiliar territory I pretty much hit the brakes. Also depends on the detector I’m using. I like the max 360 but if ka goes off I’m hitting the brakes immediately. R3 range is better so I can assess more before hitting the brakes.
 

DC Fluid

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I immediately lift off the throttle on bike or truck, and hover over brakes.
More speed reducing action if it goes up more than 1 bar on the R7, as then I know I'm on collision course.
R7 alerts so strongly to anything close I hard brake immediately if sound is fast on first two beeps.
I check the display after I take initial actions.
 

jon5

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More than once I have been targeted (doing an 180 and following me for 3 miles is pretty obvious targeting) and failed to react each time.

My theory is that IF...... the big IF..... I react in any way, such as tapping the brakes, then I must have been going faster than my current speed. Therefore my current 41 in the 40 has always been 41 and LEO's eyes must have been deceiving him thinking I was doing 55.

Of course getting down to 41 from 55 without making it obvious is the trick. So is no constant peaking in the rearview.
It's going to depend a lot on the officer and the area.
In a lot of places, if they don't "lock" your speed, there is no evidence against you. Best chance of "beating the lock" is to slow down quick. Best chance to slow down fast, usually, is with the brakes. In most places, no evidence means no ticket, or at least thrown out.

This truly is one of those topics that "depends". It depends on everything - including variables you don't know in the moment. Your vehicle, speed, terrain, cars around you, the jurisdiction you're in, the officer taking the reading, the judge hearing your case...

In my particular area, dropping anchor quickly when encountering 35.5 is my best chance at beating the officer - and beating his ability to get evidence is all that matters here. Other bands (yet another variable), like K-band might not get the same reaction. Generally i treat all Ka as 35.5 until i know it isn't.

I will say that having an exhaust brake is a nice advantage if you want to slow down stealthily. (within reason...) Best other option is a downshift, but those might be more obvious due to non-linear deceleration.
 
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