Second guessing R7

GolNat

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I have not received the detector yet. Actually, I just canceled my R7 order; hope that wasn’t a mistake.

Seems like the V1 gen 2 Is shipping or close to shipping again.

Also, I’m a dedicated iPhone user. Can anyone tell me if V1Driver functions well in the background on iOS?
Yes V1driver works great in the background. If you have an older iPhone with a weaker battery like I do it can drain the battery quick with the auto connect stuff running. I run it without auto connection enabled and just open the app when I get into the car, it connects in seconds. When you go out of V1driver and go into Waze it continues to run in the background beautifully. I use it with a V1G1 and it helps keep it quiet.
 

raddoc

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The contrast between the two is funny, on one hand you have the R7 that can't run with an app, and on the other you have the V1G1 that must have an app.

And in the end I want to keep my in car process as streamlined as possible, so just reordered the R7. I think I'll be able to tinker with the settings until I find the right balance. Hoping for those auto-lockouts soon.

Thanks to all those who chimed in to help me (re)decide.
 

Bloovy One

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The V1 Gen2 doesn't have to have an app. But if you let an app run in the background the automatic lockouts are fantastic. :)

Sorry...
 

RadarScout

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I think you made the right choice since you said you need MRCD and MRCT protection. Both have long range and sensitivity. The R7 can be quieted down without making it "dumbed down". And, you said you want to stay streamlined, so I guess that means everything "under the hood". I love my R7 and hope you'll love yours.
Congratulations!
 

GolNat

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If you are new to the RD world sometimes you just gotta try one. If you choose a good detector though you will have no trouble selling it if it does not meet your needs. Sounds like the R7 is a good choice for you.
 

L4D44

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Try the R7 for 30 days. If you don’t like it - return it and order the V1G2. Isn’t having OPTIONS a beautiful thing! :cool:
 

Boozehound

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@L4D44 should Uniden be charging $450 for their barebones R7 that lacks bluetooth and the option of a decent concealed display but comes standard with an OLED known for burnin?

@raddoc , you ordered one of the two best detectors available now. It will protect you well if you set it up correctly. Others can speak to whether you can quiet K band adequately and still detect MRCD well enough to make it useful. The popular nav app may be better protection for fixed photoradar. G2 is equipped with BT that allows you to use the GPS in your pocket. R7's GPS will not allow you to use an app. You be the judge as to which is most helpful to you.

It's great to have these outstanding detectors to choose from. I found JBV1 to be so helpful that I didn't go to the R7 over my G1 in spite of the R7's substantially superior sensitivity. G2 solved that problem for me. R7 is a great detector. Test and see. If you can't get it set up to your liking, return it and try G2. Either will save you a bundle if you're a leadfoot and you use the detector correctly.
 

L4D44

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@L4D44 should Uniden be charging $450 for their barebones R7 that lacks bluetooth and the option of a decent concealed display but comes standard with an OLED known for burnin?
ou to use the GPS in your pocket. R7's GPS will not allow you to use an app. You be the judge as to which is most helpful to you.
Funny. What the point of having bluetooth when the R7 is all-in-one RD? WHY would I need to run an app??? I also run my R3 in "dark mode" thus no need for concealed display and don't have to worry about OLED burn-in.

The problem for me, if I want to run the V1G2 properly, is that I would need to get an Android phone to install the JBV1 app. I don't want to have 2 phones with me (I'm an iPhone/iOS user) and connect one to an app just to eventually have the same options/features as the R3/R7. I'm a "plug n' play" guy. I don't want to mess with apps and multiple phones. I know some don't mind but I do. Just a matter of preference.

I set up and fine-tuned my R3 perfectly for my needs in SoCal. Neutered K band (could have really turned it off in my area but chose to keep it in super quiet mode just in case) and it rarely goes off. I get handy RLC and Speed Cam notifications w/o the use of any external device. I love the size and getting band frequency readouts. Is it perfect? No, but what RD detector is? Heck even the Theia is going to have some issues and most likely not even live up to the hype.
 
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Boozehound

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Funny. What the point of having bluetooth when the R7 is all-in-one RD? WHY would I need to run an app??? I also run my R3 in "dark mode" thus no need for concealed display and don't have to worry about OLED burn-in.

The problem for me, if I want to run the V1G2 properly, is that I would need to get an Android phone to install the JBV1 app. I don't want to have 2 phones with me (I'm an iPhone/iOS user) and connect one to an app just to eventually have the same options/features as the R3/R7. I'm a "plug n' play" guy. I don't want to mess with apps and multiple phones. I know some don't mind but I do. Just a matter of preference.

I set up and fine-tuned my R3 perfectly for my needs in SoCal. Neutered K band (could have really turned it off in my area but chose to keep it in super quiet mode just in case) and it rarely goes off. I get handy RLC and Speed Cam notifications w/o the use of any external device. I love the size and getting band frequency readouts. Is it perfect? No, but what RD detector is? Heck even the Theia is going to have some issues and most likely not even live up to the hype.
For sure everyone has different preferences. I want as up to date as possible warnings of photo enforcement and even the popular nav app warnings. I also appreciate when a detector can display frequency on its own. In the end I saw the G2 as more versatile, if more complicated in using it with a phone. Theia is certainly interesting. Looking forward to its release. If Theia can knock off I/O at 6 or 7 miles I'll be throwing a party!
 

Bloovy One

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if I want to run the V1G2 properly, is that I would need to get an Android phone to install the JBV1 app. I don't want to have 2 phones with me (I'm an iPhone/iOS user) and connect one to an app just to eventually have the same options/features as the R3/R7. I'm a "plug n' play" guy. I don't want to mess with apps and multiple phones. I know some don't mind but I do. Just a matter of preference.
You could just use the one phone with V1 Driver on your iPhone.

Superior lockouts and it wouldn't have to leave your pocket if you didn't want it to.

You are totally right to have your preferences, proper facts are helpful to everyone.
 

Jamienbaker

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Greetings from Westchester. No need to run Ka Wide. 2,4,5,6,8 is the way to go. In fact, you can jettison 2 but I wouldn’t take the risk. It’s Stalkerville up here, and I’ve been doing the NYC-Westchester run for 20 years. In fact, I don’t even run K as the areas it’s used are virtually impossible to exceed the PSL. If you’re willing to share your starting/end point, that would help. If simply blasting up WSH to Saw Mill, for example, all you need is Ka.
 

raddoc

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Greetings from Westchester. No need to run Ka Wide. 2,4,5,6,8 is the way to go. In fact, you can jettison 2 but I wouldn’t take the risk. It’s Stalkerville up here, and I’ve been doing the NYC-Westchester run for 20 years. In fact, I don’t even run K as the areas it’s used are virtually impossible to exceed the PSL. If you’re willing to share your starting/end point, that would help. If simply blasting up WSH to Saw Mill, for example, all you need is Ka.

Great info! My usual route is Hawthorne to the UES. So depending on traffic, usually the Sprain to 87, to the FDR via the the RFK/Randles Island bridge. Going North it's pretty much the same thing except I take the Willis Av Bridge from the FDR to 87. Traffic and construction sometimes has be going all sorts of ways though; Bruckner to Harlem River/Sprain, just 87 straight-up and crossing over to the Saw Mill briefly, and on rare occasions even going cross-town and taking the WSH to either 87 or the Sprain at Cross County. Pretty much I leave it up to Google Maps/Waze find the best route every time.
 

Beachman64

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Don't trust GPS lockouts now.

The police have learned to use these known false areas to their advantage.

After my recent trip to Florida and back to
Pa. last week with my new Pro-M. I really don't trust Gps lockouts. I encountered (4) instances were the police where running K-band radar at the radar/speed signs. West Virginia and Maryland. If I wasn't running Waze/Highway Radar app. I could have had a bad night, "plus many many many other saves that week". The app says police ahead (but sometimes they move and aren't their anymore) The Pro-M started to ramp up and boy it seems like it takes forever. Then you see the sign. You think false and start to speed up, but the Pro-M is still screaming like a 2 year old. You look around and their they sit, in the lot next to the sign, gun pointed at you. If you lived in a area that have these False hits and lock these signs out, you'd be in trouble.

The Pro-M did great, it is a very quite unit which was really nice to keep my sanity being in a car for 16 hours straight. But lord do I miss the boogie counter and arrows of my old V1GEN1.
 

wgmontgomery

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Don't trust GPS lockouts now.

The police have learned to use these known false areas to their advantage...(sic)...I miss the boogie counter and arrows of my old V1GEN1.
I couldn't agree more. There isn't a single GPS integrated RD whose lockouts I would trust. I understand why people like GPS lockouts, and there's nothing wrong with that. It's just that I am of the mindset that I would rather deal with a beeping RD than a ticket.
The Boogie Counter saved me SEVERAL times; I would feel almost "unprotected" without it. It kind of like the arrows: once you have them you wonder how you ever lived without them.
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Let me emphasize that my opinion of integrated GPS lockouts is JUST that...my OPINION.
 

Bloovy One

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Vortex has a recent video where he discusses the differences between built-in lockouts and app-based lockouts. Even there he doesn't have the time to really get into how much of a difference there is. It's a good start though.
 

Jamienbaker

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Great info! My usual route is Hawthorne to the UES. So depending on traffic, usually the Sprain to 87, to the FDR via the the RFK/Randles Island bridge. Going North it's pretty much the same thing except I take the Willis Av Bridge from the FDR to 87. Traffic and construction sometimes has be going all sorts of ways though; Bruckner to Harlem River/Sprain, just 87 straight-up and crossing over to the Saw Mill briefly, and on rare occasions even going cross-town and taking the WSH to either 87 or the Sprain at Cross County. Pretty much I leave it up to Google Maps/Waze find the best route every time.
In your case, doesn’t hurt to run with K but I’d throttle the sensitivity WAY back. Sprain and 87 are only Ka and I’ve had several Band 6 saves. But FDR you could run up against K. Good luck!
 

raddoc

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Correct me if I'm wrong, but my understanding is that it will only lockout a limited frequency ran
In your case, doesn’t hurt to run with K but I’d throttle the sensitivity WAY back. Sprain and 87 are only Ka and I’ve had several Band 6 saves. But FDR you could run up against K. Good luck!
Fortunately, or unfortunately depending on your perspective, it's pretty tough to go above the PSL on the FDR.

My game plan is to run City mode (K throttled to ~15%), Ka segmented (2,4,5,6,8 - as you said), K narrow.

How do you feel about the TSF settings? And do the RLC/speed camera alerts bother you?
 

RayC

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The contrast between the two is funny, on one hand you have the R7 that can't run with an app, and on the other you have the V1G1 that must have an app.

And in the end I want to keep my in car process as streamlined as possible, so just reordered the R7. I think I'll be able to tinker with the settings until I find the right balance. Hoping for those auto-lockouts soon.

Thanks to all those who chimed in to help me (re)decide.
The R7 with a couple minutes of setup will be pretty damn quiet. The lockouts have been tightened up on the R7 but I have yet to have any issue with missing an alert but see mostly Ka in my parts with a few towns still around with an old K gun here or there. As for auto lockouts I haven't missed not having them as I locked what I needed the first time through them and can't say that I have added more than one or two additional lockouts in the past 9 months. I ran the G2 for a period as well but found the R7 to be much more quiet as a stand-alone unit when set up correctly and the built in display on the R7 makes it easy to see all the info you could want along with better K band protection. No reason not to segment the R7. I would say that if you want to mount a phone to get a better display than the V1 or even the R7 running alone then it's a very good option as well as it does give you all the missing features of the standalone V1 and more than the R7 overall. I also wanted just one unit and not have to mount/run a phone to get the display and features that the new V1 never added into the unit.

Without the app I would see no reason to opt for the V1 over the R7 other than physical size of the unit. R7 is lower cost, all kinds of custom settings, frequency display and a display that can be changed in many ways along with plenty of custom audible tones set however you want. Don't worry about the plastic vs metal case. No plastic cases have failed (while internals inside metal cases have had a good number of issues lately so the metal case hasn't prevented failures or need for repairs).

Good luck with your choice.
 

wgmontgomery

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Without the app I would see no reason to opt for the V1 over the R7 other than physical size of the unit. R7 is lower cost, all kinds of custom settings, frequency display and a display that can be changed in many ways along with plenty of custom audible tones set however you want.

Don't worry about the plastic vs metal case. No plastic cases have failed (while internals inside metal cases have had a good number of issues lately so the metal case hasn't prevented failures or need for repairs).

Good luck with your choice.
The V1G2 has better sensitivity (better range) on 2 out of 3 Ka frequencies. It MAY have better K range too considering how much he says he'll be throttling back the R7's K sensitivity.
Better filtering too.
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This is based on the numbers that I saw on Vortex.
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...& this is all WITHOUT an app.

Re: metal vs plastic cases. IDK about the R7 specifically, but I'm pretty sure that at least one manufacturer has had failures with their plastic cases.

All of that stated the R7 is a great RD. I don't think that you will be unhappy with either.
 
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RayC

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The V1G2 has better sensitivity (better range) on 2 out of 3 Ka frequencies. It MAY have better K range too considering how much he says he'll be throttling back the R7's K sensitivity.
Better filtering too.
Ka range is similar from the various tests that I have seen but have seen the G2 has edged the R7 on some tests (both are more than adequate and quite long). K range on the V1G2 from my own experience was very poor (and others have reported the same) almost to the point of dangerous unless you run in logic or all bogeys mode and then there goes the filtering and quiet. Almost every test of the G2 K range is running it fully open and the R7 at 40% and even then I don't think it could keep up. Put the G2 in advanced logic mode to get filtering and it's not even a close call even with the R7 dailed back to 18% of it's K range sensitivity.

I think ultimately though it comes down to if you want an all in one unit or want to pair a phone and possibly mount it if display is important. There were 2 to 3 things I really liked on JBV1 that I thought were really really great and that's the only place to get them. In the end they were not must have for me but I see why people love that app so much. It's probably good to at least try both if you can take the shipping hit and decide what works best for you.
 

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