Help: Water spots : advice needed

DocTJ

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When I had the water softener installed here in my home, I made sure a soft water spigot was available in the garage (where the softener is located) for exactly this kind of thing. I don’t know if it makes any difference really during the wash, but a filtered soft water rinse seems like a good idea.
It is on my list of things to do for when I move to a place with access to a hose.
i have a pressure washer from when I used to live elsewhere that didn’t have hard water. But the softener/ filter is my next aim.
I guess in meantime I can use distilled water in a spray canister to get a fine rinse .
 

aim4squirrels

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For trim, buy a product called Carpro Dlux. You will never use anything else again on trim. It's like a coating, but doesn't have the crazy prep work and it can bring back the black to rubber and trim.

Clean the rubber and plastic thoroughly with a diluted all purpose cleaner, rinse and let dry.

Apply the Dlux carefully with the included applicator block and suede towel. keep a separate regular towel handy to rub off any you accidentally get on the paint. Do not try to level the Dlux with a towel just apply a bit of fresh product and smooth it out.

Let it dry 24 hours before getting wet and then don't worry about your trim for the next 1.5 to 2 years.
 

DocTJ

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Perfect. Thank you. I think i saw a car pro product when I looking at ceramic coatings , and it had good reviews.

What else do you have in your garage / Arsenal ? Lol

I wish I had more patience for this
 

aim4squirrels

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Perfect. Thank you. I think i saw a car pro product when I looking at ceramic coatings , and it had good reviews.

What else do you have in your garage / Arsenal ? Lol

I wish I had more patience for this
Too much...LOL,. But I'll boil it down to what I use and not concern you with what I've moved on from...

If you want stupid easy, it usually comes at a bit of a premium. I have basically worked it down to this:


If I have to compound (polish with a really heavy cut) I use Wolfgang Uber compound.

I Polish with Carpro Essence to prepare for my coating and correct minor blemishes.

(note: Essence is NOT Essence plus, that's a different product completely and I think it was stupid for Carpro to pick so close a name).

Then I coat. This last time I used 22ple HPC on my Challenger, and I did my wife's car with some Pinnacle Black Label Diamond Surface Coating I had left over from years ago.

Topped both coatings with Kamikaze Overcoat.

Wheels are getting 22ple VM1 signature. Never used this before, but it claims 3-5 years on wheels and has gotten very high praise from guys that I trust in the detailing world. We'll find out. For the tires I use Tuff Shine tire coating.


Interior I only clean everything with a diluted all purpose cleaner, then wipe everything down with Pinnacle Black Label Leather and Vinyl coating. It's expensive, but a little goes a very long way.
 

DocTJ

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dude: 22ple HPC.: not cheap hahaha

thanks for the list, making one for myself now and gonna organize the garage
 

aim4squirrels

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dude: 22ple HPC.: not cheap hahaha

thanks for the list, making one for myself now and gonna organize the garage
Wait for a sale, they always have a sale at detailed image. I think they have one now. I justify it in that I don't really have to do anything to the car for about 2-3 years besides wash it. That's worth it to me.

Oh, make sure if you use any paint coatings that you know how to prep the surface correctly before applying the coating. The only one that doesn't need an IPA wipe down is the Dlux, you just need a clean surface
That Dlux works on any plastic or rubber surface

Good wheel cleaners are sonax full effect for rims and tuff shine tire cleaner for the rubber. You can actually dilute the tuff shine cleaner 50/50 with water and it's just as effective if you let it dwell a minute longer.
 
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RadarScout

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When I had the water softener installed here in my home, I made sure a soft water spigot was available in the garage (where the softener is located) for exactly this kind of thing. I don’t know if it makes any difference really during the wash, but a filtered soft water rinse seems like a good idea.
If @DocTJ doesn't mind my getting off topic for a question, I want to ask about water softeners.
 

DocTJ

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If @DocTJ doesn't mind my getting off topic for a question, I want to ask about water softeners.
Go ahead man. Let’s put all that knowledge here.
This is gonna be the thread i return to for anything car wash related. I can’t read all the auto geek threads and meguiars forums. It’s a lot.
 

RadarScout

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@Deacon I don't know much about water softeners. How do you know if you need one? Are there filters that need to be changed out occasionally? You mentioned the spigot, is that where it attaches? If so, that would mean a softener for each one or is there a centralized place for all water coming into or out of the pipes?
 
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GTO_04

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Too much...LOL,. But I'll boil it down to what I use and not concern you with what I've moved on from...

If you want stupid easy, it usually comes at a bit of a premium. I have basically worked it down to this:


If I have to compound (polish with a really heavy cut) I use Wolfgang Uber compound.

I Polish with Carpro Essence to prepare for my coating and correct minor blemishes.

(note: Essence is NOT Essence plus, that's a different product completely and I think it was stupid for Carpro to pick so close a name).

Then I coat. This last time I used 22ple HPC on my Challenger, and I did my wife's car with some Pinnacle Black Label Diamond Surface Coating I had left over from years ago.

Topped both coatings with Kamikaze Overcoat.

Wheels are getting 22ple VM1 signature. Never used this before, but it claims 3-5 years on wheels and has gotten very high praise from guys that I trust in the detailing world. We'll find out. For the tires I use Tuff Shine tire coating.


Interior I only clean everything with a diluted all purpose cleaner, then wipe everything down with Pinnacle Black Label Leather and Vinyl coating. It's expensive, but a little goes a very long way.
The Meguiar's Waterless Wash is one of the very first waterless washes. I am surprised to see it allow water spotting like that. I have not had that happen. I have normally had very good results with most Megs products. Like @RadarScout mention maybe the rain is mixing with pollen causing your problem. GA is legendary for leaving pollen on your cars, isn't it?

Ditto on the Car Pro Essence! That is what I use on my Charger for paint correction. I top it off with Car Pro Reload Spray Sealant. It won't last as long as a dedicated ceramic coating but works very well and it will get me through the winter when using the Elixir Quick Detailer as a touch up. The ECH2O Waterless Wash is good too. Depending on the dilution ratio that you use it can also be used as a quick detailer.

If you want something super easy try the P&S Bead Maker Spray Sealant. I used that on the rear half of my car so I can compare it to the Car Pro regimen I use on the front. It is not quite as good as the Car Pro system I use on the front end, but still very good. That is the sole maintenance product I have used on the back half of my 2019 Scat Pack and I am very satisfied it. I have had zero water spotting issues with it. Use the Bead Maker right after washing your car. You can also use it on a dry surface if you prefer.

As you might guess I like to try a lot of different detailing products. Recently I have tried Meguiar's new M27 Pro Hybrid Ceramic Sealant and am really impressed! It is super easy to apply and even shows some swirl filling ability. It leaves a very slick surface and sheds water extremely well! I will be using it the next time after I do any paint correction. I like to order from Detailed Image because they have good shipping rates and have good sales. I bought the M27 for $7 off the regular price. You should register on their site for e-mail updates. If you buy anything from them apply the FREEREDFOAM coupon and you will get a good wax/sealant applicator with your order.

GTO_04
 
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DocTJ

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@GTO_04
Thanks for all the info. I’m gonna need a bigger table in the garage to accommodate all the stuff you and @aim4squirrels mentioned. I think the pollen theory is accurate plus the wax seal on my car I’m pretty sure needed to be retouched , that should help with the pollen and water coming off much easier instead of staying on it and. Not moving. (I hit 90-100 usually on my way back from work in the mornings after the cars been sitting outside, and I don’t see the water flowing off easily , by the time I get home 20 min later some is still there )

beadmaker was brought up positively by a different member here , and youtube had a favorable impression on it too, although it didn’t last as long as some of the others after repeated washes /rinses but one can always reapply right?
I’ve still got a lot of reading and YouTube watching to do. I wish y’all lived closer so I can see these cars and the results.
@Deacon @RadarScout mentioned this above : and I only skimmed this topic once maybe 2 years ago when i was in Alabama :
For the water softeners / deionizers : I know there’s some big ass systems that exist that connect between source and house (up to 1000 dollars I’ve seen ) and then there’s some that are the size of refrigerator filters and connect near the hose. The efficacy of the smaller ones is in question as the reviews are mixed. Also not one brand seems to survive more than a few years. Interested to see what (if anything) can be recommended ?
 

aim4squirrels

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I've read good reviews of bead maker as well, the only knock being the longevity. I've not tried it as I already have too much stuff as is.

There's a CR Spotless system that has refillable resin. It isn't cheap. Most guys that run that have a bypass where they only use the CR Spotless for the final rinse to reduce water spotting.

I just haul ass around the car with my blower and a really plush MF towel to get the water off the surface before it dries. Then I'll work the crevices to get the stuff out that would sit and rust other parts.
 

GTO_04

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@GTO_04
Thanks for all the info. I’m gonna need a bigger table in the garage to accommodate all the stuff you and @aim4squirrels mentioned. I think the pollen theory is accurate plus the wax seal on my car I’m pretty sure needed to be retouched , that should help with the pollen and water coming off much easier instead of staying on it and. Not moving. (I hit 90-100 usually on my way back from work in the mornings after the cars been sitting outside, and I don’t see the water flowing off easily , by the time I get home 20 min later some is still there )

beadmaker was brought up positively by a different member here , and youtube had a favorable impression on it too, although it didn’t last as long as some of the others after repeated washes /rinses but one can always reapply right?
I’ve still got a lot of reading and YouTube watching to do. I wish y’all lived closer so I can see these cars and the results.
@Deacon @RadarScout mentioned this above : and I only skimmed this topic once maybe 2 years ago when i was in Alabama :
For the water softeners / deionizers : I know there’s some big ass systems that exist that connect between source and house (up to 1000 dollars I’ve seen ) and then there’s some that are the size of refrigerator filters and connect near the hose. The efficacy of the smaller ones is in question as the reviews are mixed. Also not one brand seems to survive more than a few years. Interested to see what (if anything) can be recommended ?
Using soft water to rinse your car off will definitely help prevent water spots. The water in my garage is connected to a water softener. Otherwise, you will need to rinse and dry each section as you go when you wash your car. I do not use a blower because I found that it dried the paint off so quickly I wound up with even more water spots. A more powerful blower might take care of that. A lot of detailers like them so that my work for you. I like to rinse with a sheet of water using a cut off section of hose rather than a spray nozzle. That really helps the water sheet off the paint (regardless of which sealant or coating that you use). And that will minimize the drying that you will need to do.

I use Bead Maker every time I wash my car so the durability has not been an issue for me. It leaves the paint so slick I hardly have any bonded contaminants on the paint, which came as a nice surprise to me. With RDs there is a tradeoff between quietness and protection and with sealants and coatings there is a tradeoff between ease of use and durability. If a sealant give a nice slick and glossy surface while being easy to use, I am more likely to use it often, which helps offset lower durability. I have never used a full on coating due to the prep work required. That has to be at least a full weekend of work! If I need to do paint correction for swirls, I will do a section one weekend, such as the front fenders and hood.

GTO_04
 

aim4squirrels

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Which blower y’all using?
I have an electric blower so I can use it in the garage. I used to use my gas powered leaf blower but noticed that even with the door open, the gas fumes would build up too much, likely due to the direction it faces and how the wind blows around the house. So I went with one like this:


That brand used to be DP (detailers pride) but they rebranded a number of years ago. When that dryer was first launched, it was only $95.00 so I thought it was a no brainer to try at that price point. After I got It, I found it required some modification to keep the pieces together. I like the mobility of it, but if I had to do it over, I might go with a wall mounted one and a long hose like this:

 
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Deacon

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@Deacon I don't know much about water softeners. How do you know if you need one?
“Need” is always a strong term. Home Depot in my area has these little testing vials that you send in and they call you and give you the hardness results and of course try to push to set up an appointment to have someone sell you a system installation. But at least you’ll have a baseline.

There are lots of upsides to soft water, but there are many variables that are unique not only to your area (or at least your water source) but also your house itself, like whether it’s pre-plumbed with a loop for a water softener and if not what it would take to get it installed.

In my new house (built around 1971) the water is actually relatively soft already at only about 11 grains per gallon. Still hard and enough to leave spots on dishes and build up around faucets and such, but nothing compared to the ~36gpg I used to have. It’s never had a softener installed, but it worked out to cap the main water entry from the road and bury PVC around the side yard through to the garage, where the house is now back fed through the softener and drains through the washing machine drain.

But in that old house I referred to they’d basically have to tunnel under the driveway and were going to end up charging around $2k just for that part of the install. I skipped the whole thing.

Last time, I got a Water Boss 900 through Home Depot, and I was very happy with it. This time I went through a local specialist small business that delivered their own system, and so far so good.

I have no problem recommending the Water Boss.


Are there filters that need to be changed out occasionally?
Any reputable local company or installer will put a whole house mechanical filter before the softener. All it does is ensure there are no little grains of sand or whatever else other than water. The softener itself is almost like a big filter, except it’s full of little resin beads that the source water runs through, and through basic ion exchange the “hard water” chemicals naturally dissolved in the water like calcium end up bonding to the resin beads.

You have a brine tank with salt pellets in it because after a while the resin beads have pretty well built up a coating to the point where they’re no longer doing much. So the resin beads are periodically back washed with the salty water that basically clears off the build up to make sure it stays working. So you just add more salt occasionally. How often and how much salt you go through depends on how hard your water is and how much water your household goes through.

You mentioned the spigot, is that where it attaches? If so, that would mean a softener for each one or is there a centralized place for all water coming into or out of the pipes?
Water just flows where it’s being pushed. You have a single inlet of household water, you run it through the softener, and anything after the softener is soft water. In my case, I went ahead and had them add a hose hookup just after the softener in my garage before it’s plumbed into the house.

PS These are the absolute best. Full-port quarter turn ball valve. American Valve M71QT 3/4" Hose Bibb, https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001GLSLM6/?tag=rdf0cd0c-20


I know there’s some big ass systems that exist that connect between source and house (up to 1000 dollars I’ve seen ) and then there’s some that are the size of refrigerator filters and connect near the hose. The efficacy of the smaller ones is in question as the reviews are mixed. Also not one brand seems to survive more than a few years. Interested to see what (if anything) can be recommended ?
A mechanical filter I guess wouldn’t hurt anything. I can’t imagine it helps in any discernible way with washing cars, though, unless there’s a ton of debris in your water somehow and it’s scratching the paint when you apply a sponge.
 
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DocTJ

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I JUST watched a YouTube video yesterday about Adams ceramic coating on a channel called obsessed garage. He compared it against meguiars ceramic wax and bead maker. These are all great products.
thanks for the recommendation.
 

aim4squirrels

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Be aware. Adam's doesn't make any of their products. They relabel and upcharge other products made to their specifications from a manufacturer that makes a cheaper version of darn near the same thing. Most of the boutique sellers do as well.

Are Adam's products good? Yes.
Are they overpriced? Yes.
Can you find something else that will do what they do? Yes, but you'll have to research.

It's a lot like the Attowave concept we understand. Attowave doesn't sell a specific radar detector, but they make a whole lot of detectors for other resellers, and sometimes the same design is used by multiple resellers. Like the Uniden/ K40 dfr6 thing.

I like Matt from obsessed garage, but he's definitely into making his own brand image. Every bit and bobble he has on his website is marked up about 20-25%. The only thing he doesn't mark up are the high end items, like Kranzle pressure washers, but if you try to buy a customized unit, he'll charge you $53 to customize it in addition to the upcharged customized parts he puts on. Likely because he gets it shipped to himself from his Maryland supplier and then out to you.

The mosmatic pressure washer gun is a perfect example. He charges over $110 for a gun you can buy at a commercial car wash seller for $80.

If you're willing to dig deeper and do the research, you can save a lot of money on stuff in the auto aftermarket, detailing included.
 

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