Car detail help

The Mighty Four Banger

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One thing to note too, is if you use the wrong type of soap, it will strip wax off. Many people use dish soap and they don't realize it pulls wax off the car.
interesting. I guess I’ll have to do some more research on that but I’m sure the self serve places wouldn’t pull something like that.
 

rvacs

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So @The Mighty Four Banger - I am in Texas as well.

I live in Central Texas (Austin area) - Black Porsche - shows anything bad...
Car Washes - very picky - some don't use filtered water which means Calcium deposits showing...I never wash at home or I would see white Calcium from the water.

My suggestion is:
1. Find a good Wax (I like Chemical Brothers stuff and Griots)
2. Use an orbital waxer ($65 on Amazon) to put the wax on (they have come down in price) - this will get any top layers down to where you get a clean polish and wax from a machine vs. hand. Then I hand wipe off after applied with orbital waxer.
3. If you want another layer of wax can then go Carnuba based (this step can be skipped)
Should like the shine now - then let's protect it:
4. Don't overpay but find a good reviews bottle of 9h Ceramic Coating (I use Hocossy on Ceramic Coating off Amazon) $29 bottle - Apply small section at a time...wait a couple minutes and buff out.


RESULTS? See my car as one of the Reviews on the Hocossy Ceramic Coating reviews - glossy shiny black
Very Happy....
 

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GTO_04

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So @The Mighty Four Banger - I am in Texas as well.

I live in Central Texas (Austin area) - Black Porsche - shows anything bad...
Car Washes - very picky - some don't use filtered water which means Calcium deposits showing...I never wash at home or I would see white Calcium from the water.

My suggestion is:
1. Find a good Wax (I like Chemical Brothers stuff and Griots)
2. Use an orbital waxer ($65 on Amazon) to put the wax on (they have come down in price) - this will get any top layers down to where you get a clean polish and wax from a machine vs. hand. Then I hand wipe off after applied with orbital waxer.
3. If you want another layer of wax can then go Carnuba based (this step can be skipped)
Should like the shine now - then let's protect it:
4. Don't overpay but find a good reviews bottle of 9h Ceramic Coating (I use Hocossy on Ceramic Coating off Amazon) $29 bottle - Apply small section at a time...wait a couple minutes and buff out.


RESULTS? See my car as one of the Reviews on the Hocossy Ceramic Coating reviews - glossy shiny black
Very Happy....
I totally agree. Not all car washes are bad. And I am VERY picky about the paint on my Scat Pack!

GTO_04
 

RoverTtx

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I totally agree. Not all car washes are bad. And I am VERY picky about the paint on my Scat Pack!

GTO_04
You mean self service ones, right?

Sent from my Moto Z2 using Tapatalk
 

The Mighty Four Banger

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So @The Mighty Four Banger - I am in Texas as well.

I live in Central Texas (Austin area) - Black Porsche - shows anything bad...
Car Washes - very picky - some don't use filtered water which means Calcium deposits showing...I never wash at home or I would see white Calcium from the water.

My suggestion is:
1. Find a good Wax (I like Chemical Brothers stuff and Griots)
2. Use an orbital waxer ($65 on Amazon) to put the wax on (they have come down in price) - this will get any top layers down to where you get a clean polish and wax from a machine vs. hand. Then I hand wipe off after applied with orbital waxer.
3. If you want another layer of wax can then go Carnuba based (this step can be skipped)
Should like the shine now - then let's protect it:
4. Don't overpay but find a good reviews bottle of 9h Ceramic Coating (I use Hocossy on Ceramic Coating off Amazon) $29 bottle - Apply small section at a time...wait a couple minutes and buff out.


RESULTS? See my car as one of the Reviews on the Hocossy Ceramic Coating reviews - glossy shiny black
Very Happy....
The two words I like are calcium and orbital polisher.
I’m the same area ish I think we share the same aquifer.. but the calcium deposits line up with the problems I’ve been having since I started really washing the car here so that’s what I needed to hear.

I was going to get a polisher for the polishing and keep it around for helping me wax.

that’s a good looking car.
Post automatically merged:

I totally agree. Not all car washes are bad. And I am VERY picky about the paint on my Scat Pack!

GTO_04
You mean self service ones, right?

Sent from my Moto Z2 using Tapatalk
yeah so I only use self service ones. I had a laser wash scratch my car, and now I have jammers and a couple steel whips so automatic washes are permanently off the table.
 

nomore55

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When I used to do the spray car wash booth routine, I took my own soap + mitt in a closed-up bucket. I only used the car wash sprayer for their water, never their harsh chems.
 

RoverTtx

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I've got hard water as with most Texans but I still try to wash at home. If you do it at night and are super quick about drying the car it works alright.

I envy those who never have water staining problems.

Sent from my Moto Z2 using Tapatalk
 

aim4squirrels

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OP if you're looking to do this on the cheaper side, do this first:

Go to harbor freight and pick up their DA polisher. Do not get something from Walmart or target for $40. Those aren't true polishers, we call them wax spreaders because that's basically all they are good for.

Watch this video and decide if you want to mod it. It'll work even better if you do.
Buy about 4 of their medium pads and try a cleaner wax first to see if it gets you the result you want. Like this one that can be picked up just about anywhere that sells car cleaning supplies:


Another good brand is klasse all in one if you can find it.

Most people will recommend actually polishing the paint by removing a thin layer of clearcoat with an abrasive compound. I believe you should start with the least aggressive methods possible, and if you're happy with the result, who cares what everyone else thinks.

Put a pad on the backing plate and put enough cleaner wax on the pad to lightly coat the whole surface and work a 12" x 12" section with half a pad overlap about six times traveling up and down and alternating left to right. Wipe down with a soft cloth and check your result. If you like what you see, do the whole car. If not go more aggressive with an actual compound. I'd suggest meguiars ultimate compound because you can get it anywhere and it has more oils than their M105 product so it's easier to work with for a newbie. Replace the pad when it gets caked up with spent wax and oxidation. It'll happen fairly fast with a heavily oxidized car. Wash the pads with dawn dish soap and water and wring them out thoroughly. Set them out to dry and reuse them when you need them.

Whatever you use, do NOT get it anywhere near plastic trim. Cleaner waxes and compound can scuff and stain plastic trim pieces, so tape them off with painters tape before you start buffing. And never ever buff a dirty car.
 
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GTO_04

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You mean self service ones, right?

Sent from my Moto Z2 using Tapatalk
No. There are some good automatic washes you just have to know where they are. I dry the finish myself though I would not trust anyone else to do that. I use a good QD and MF towels to get the water off that the blowers miss. Believe me if a car wash causes swirls I will be the first to notice and would NOT go back there ever again.

If I am going to use a self service one I'll wash it at home and use the faucet in the garage connected to the water softener. I prefer a good automatic wash to get the underbody washed. There is no good way for me to do that otherwise I don't own a hydraulic car lift lol.

GTO_04
 

RoverTtx

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No. There are some good automatic washes you just have to know where they are. I dry the finish myself though I would not trust anyone else to do that. I use a good QD and MF towels to get the water off that the blowers miss. Believe me if a car wash causes swirls I will be the first to notice and would NOT go back there ever again.

If I am going to use a self service one I'll wash it at home and use the faucet in the garage connected to the water softener. I prefer a good automatic wash to get the underbody washed. There is no good way for me to do that otherwise I don't own a hydraulic car lift lol.

GTO_04
Ah interesting on the underbody washing. I never considered that but then again I live in Texas and my car only sees snow/salt on road trips. I think I've pressure washed the underbody of my car once and that was to help trace an oil leak.

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Gothamnyc

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Sorry to chime in late... Check craigslist and see if someone is selling an older Porter Cable or Flex orbital polisher or better yet a 1st Gen Rupes bigfoot 15 or 21 on eBay.... If your not looking for a pro finish 1 step it with Rupes Yellow Keramik polish and a few yellow foam pads than protect with a wax of your choice... You can get a nice sampler pack for $10 on the Rupes web page, more than enough products and options in it, to play with various polishes... Protect with a wax of your choice.... Clay isn't the miracle product a lot of people think it is, it helps with a smooth contamination free surface but it is just one tool/step in a larger process... Keep in mind if this is your first attempt, without experience lots of things will go unnoticed like when a pad is over saturated, when it is gunked up with too much dead paint and or dirt etc... I am guessing you don't have a compressor to blow out the pads, clean frequently etc...Sounds like your paint isn't perfect so rotate out pads from section to section... Watch a few videos on how to prime the correctly too... Orbital and Dual Action polishers are really safe, not to be a wise guy but I let my 3 year old lose on my Porsche when she "wants to help" as long as she keeps it off the ground nothing bad is happening...
Post some pics and we can better assist you!
 

ferravette

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Got it inspected by a detailer, looks like the paint is in good condition, just needs a good cleaning.
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I was looking at getting a cheaper orbital polisher, running over it real light just to clear everything up. I’ve been sifting through YouTube quite a bit
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I got it as a second owner in 2016. And that’s basically what the detailer was getting at: Clean her, nice clay bar, and keep putting wax on it about monthly with weekly car washes.

the headlights are the only thing with actual damage but I’ve got a pretty good idea on how to restore that.
Hey Mighty Four Banger,

All the great advice you have from the guys here is all you need. So I will just give my opinion as to how to approach this.
Just as a background, I have been detailing my own cars for over 20 years and never had an issue and my cars always look brand new. I also did a youtube video on my buddy's 2007 Porsche that we ceramic coated that you can watch (I will put the link at the end).

So your paint (actually your clear coat) is in good shape, your car will look like new when done. Don't use a rotary polisher, very easy to overheat (burn) paint. Does not sound like an orbital polisher will do the trick. Use a Dual Action Polisher. The polisher I used in the video is a Rupes, which is on the expensive side but I own a few cars and detail them quite a bit. Harbor Freight has dual action polishers that will do the job. As far as the polish itself and the pads the ones we used in the video have been working extremely well. At the risk of being pretentious, I used the exact process you see in the video on my factory new Huracan the day I got it from the dealer. When I was done it looked much better and the paint felt like a baby's tush. The point I am trying to make is if you work with safe equipment and polishes do not be afraid to do the process. I wish you lived closer to the east coast, would love to bring your car back to life. If I can be of further help, let me know.
 

omgboost

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Harbor freight dual action polisher is what I use. Buy a 5 or 5.5 inch backing plate on Amazon, along with hexlogic pads, white and orange. Meguairs 105 and 205, watching tons of junkman YouTube videos and I went to town on my BMW. Turned out decent, I know it's not perfect but I'm also not paying $1500 to get it done. Was able to remove scuff marks and what not so I was happy about that. After spending the time and living in the city, I just gave up caring. I will still wash my own car but I don't really care much about swirls and imperfections anymore because once I fix that, the next day adouche could come and give me something new to fix.

Now I would just buy cquartz 3.0 uk edition and apply to your car instead of a wax. I did this with my Sequoia. I didn't bother with claying or waxing, but it would help tremendously if you did. After claying and waxing, apply 2 coats of the cquartz, let it cute and you should get a nice glossy look and water will bead right off. Every once in a while, get the cquartz reload and spray and wipe off the extend the life of the ceramic coat.
 

The Mighty Four Banger

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Hey Mighty Four Banger,

All the great advice you have from the guys here is all you need. So I will just give my opinion as to how to approach this.
Just as a background, I have been detailing my own cars for over 20 years and never had an issue and my cars always look brand new. I also did a youtube video on my buddy's 2007 Porsche that we ceramic coated that you can watch (I will put the link at the end).

So your paint (actually your clear coat) is in good shape, your car will look like new when done. Don't use a rotary polisher, very easy to overheat (burn) paint. Does not sound like an orbital polisher will do the trick. Use a Dual Action Polisher. The polisher I used in the video is a Rupes, which is on the expensive side but I own a few cars and detail them quite a bit. Harbor Freight has dual action polishers that will do the job. As far as the polish itself and the pads the ones we used in the video have been working extremely well. At the risk of being pretentious, I used the exact process you see in the video on my factory new Huracan the day I got it from the dealer. When I was done it looked much better and the paint felt like a baby's tush. The point I am trying to make is if you work with safe equipment and polishes do not be afraid to do the process. I wish you lived closer to the east coast, would love to bring your car back to life. If I can be of further help, let me know.
That's kind of sad your car wasn't even looking great straight out of the dealership...

I was looking at the harbor freight dual action polisher if I can't find anything cheap off craigslist. Once I'm there I'll go back and do a whole cleaning process, clay it over, then go at it with a polisher and use it to put on some wax.

The detailer I spoke with said that it's fine to just go with wax for now and put a new coat on every month, and if I really want to coat it then I can but the ceramic coats need boosters just like wax needs fresh coats.

The only thing I'm worried about is rain spots. A fresh clay bar and wax worked pretty well and beaded the rain up well but the rain would dry up without rolling off and I'd be left with a front-wheel drive cheetah... Wiping the car off before it would dry helped but I can't do anything about rain at 3am or the sprinklers.

As for my paint condition, the detailer says it looks good and I'm assuming it's good because the car looks beautiful when it's wet.
Post automatically merged:

Harbor freight dual action polisher is what I use. Buy a 5 or 5.5 inch backing plate on Amazon, along with hexlogic pads, white and orange. Meguairs 105 and 205, watching tons of junkman YouTube videos and I went to town on my BMW. Turned out decent, I know it's not perfect but I'm also not paying $1500 to get it done. Was able to remove scuff marks and what not so I was happy about that. After spending the time and living in the city, I just gave up caring. I will still wash my own car but I don't really care much about swirls and imperfections anymore because once I fix that, the next day adouche could come and give me something new to fix.

Now I would just buy cquartz 3.0 uk edition and apply to your car instead of a wax. I did this with my Sequoia. I didn't bother with claying or waxing, but it would help tremendously if you did. After claying and waxing, apply 2 coats of the cquartz, let it cute and you should get a nice glossy look and water will bead right off. Every once in a while, get the cquartz reload and spray and wipe off the extend the life of the ceramic coat.
As a side note, do you use it on your wheels? Had an old friend that would coat his wheels to help with brake dust.
 

omgboost

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That's kind of sad your car wasn't even looking great straight out of the dealership...

I was looking at the harbor freight dual action polisher if I can't find anything cheap off craigslist. Once I'm there I'll go back and do a whole cleaning process, clay it over, then go at it with a polisher and use it to put on some wax.

The detailer I spoke with said that it's fine to just go with wax for now and put a new coat on every month, and if I really want to coat it then I can but the ceramic coats need boosters just like wax needs fresh coats.

The only thing I'm worried about is rain spots. A fresh clay bar and wax worked pretty well and beaded the rain up well but the rain would dry up without rolling off and I'd be left with a front-wheel drive cheetah... Wiping the car off before it would dry helped but I can't do anything about rain at 3am or the sprinklers.

As for my paint condition, the detailer says it looks good and I'm assuming it's good because the car looks beautiful when it's wet.
Post automatically merged:


As a side note, do you use it on your wheels? Had an old friend that would coat his wheels to help with brake dust.
You can, but I don't. I've learned to live with brake dust.
 

GTO_04

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That's kind of sad your car wasn't even looking great straight out of the dealership...

I was looking at the harbor freight dual action polisher if I can't find anything cheap off craigslist. Once I'm there I'll go back and do a whole cleaning process, clay it over, then go at it with a polisher and use it to put on some wax.

The detailer I spoke with said that it's fine to just go with wax for now and put a new coat on every month, and if I really want to coat it then I can but the ceramic coats need boosters just like wax needs fresh coats.

The only thing I'm worried about is rain spots. A fresh clay bar and wax worked pretty well and beaded the rain up well but the rain would dry up without rolling off and I'd be left with a front-wheel drive cheetah... Wiping the car off before it would dry helped but I can't do anything about rain at 3am or the sprinklers.

As for my paint condition, the detailer says it looks good and I'm assuming it's good because the car looks beautiful when it's wet.
Post automatically merged:


As a side note, do you use it on your wheels? Had an old friend that would coat his wheels to help with brake dust.
Sprinklers are the worst for water spotting because it is often hard water, and that can leave hard-to-remove deposits. I suppose it depends on where you drive, but I have never had water spot problems from rain. They just come right off during the next car wash. If your outside water faucets at home have hard water, that can cause water spots too. If you rinse with a flow of water, instead of a hard stream, the water will sheet and roll off the surface, making drying process much easier!

GTO_04
 

The Mighty Four Banger

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Sprinklers are the worst for water spotting because it is often hard water, and that can leave hard-to-remove deposits. I suppose it depends on where you drive, but I have never had water spot problems from rain. They just come right off during the next car wash. If your outside water faucets at home have hard water, that can cause water spots too. If you rinse with a flow of water, instead of a hard stream, the water will sheet and roll off the surface, making drying process much easier!

GTO_04
Sprinklers are definitely hard. The rain isn't hard per se but leaves residue that comes off in the car wash, it's just that I've never really had to wash my car off... after the rain.
 

Gunney57

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I'd probably look at spending $150 and getting a polisher...I'd consider it a lifetime tool and it will likely yield the result you want. Griot's just released a machine a few weeks ago that people are liking a lot.

If you are having paint problems, only a re-paint is going to fix that.
Unless you are cutting orange peel I wouldn't recommend anything but a DA or dual action unit.
Removing wax before polishing will make your results much better. Polishes are easiest and safest to work with. No heavy cut compounds unless you have to hand work certain panels.
As far as what to use, lots of options here. The most avail available brands that are worth using are Mothers and Meguiars. I used 3m stuff mostly in the past but the players in this field are many.
Again, light polishing compounds are about all you should need to bring back you're finish. Always start at an inconspicuous spot if your not sure of yourself.
P.S. No "glazing" compounds are not polishes and are nothing but a bandaid. Don't use them.
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Oh, and aimforsquirrels was right on with the waxing "toys". My son uses a $79.95 Harbor Freight unit made by Bauer for most of his work. He is a professional detailer.
Post automatically merged:

And cheap polisher pads just make the job harder. My son uses Cooks auto supply in Brookfield, Wi for his but most good auto stores can help.
 
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The Mighty Four Banger

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How does this look? It's an hour drive one way so I'd need to know if it's worth it


List of Supplies:

Harbor Freight Dual Action Polisher
16oz Meguiar's gold class car wash
Meguiar's 205 (half bottle)
Meguiar's 105 (half bottle)
16oz Collonite Insulator Wax
New Meguiar's cleaner wax with pad
2 Orange cutting pad
1 white cutting pad

asking price, $50
 
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Gunney57

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Probably a decent deal for the pads and buffer. The chemicals are are always a question of age. No on the cleaner wax, yes on the wash. The rest is debatable.
 

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