Interconversion of a DFR7 US model to a DFR7 NZ

Mithheru

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is there any way to determine if the segmentation list in the above quoted post is accurate for USA DFR7's converted to NZ?
The Ka segmentation bands in #18 I haven't checked. However, it does look as though the reported Ka frequencies on these converted detectors has dropped, so whilst the segments may be correct, the detected frequency may be a bit low. If I get more time this weekend, I'll have a look more closely at this, and see if there is a way to retune the detector.
 

droidxt

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Some good news. Picked up 3 cops on SH1 today including a real good save (guy following behind got pulled over :/ )

I turned on Ka 3,4,5,6,7. When it picks up cops the frequency changes rapidly from 34.6 to 34.57 to 34.46 to 34.13GHz. It sort of cycles through these frequencies when I get a detection.

The frequencies have definitely dropped as it used to display 34.7Ghz back on the US firmware. Not a big deal for me however.

This verifies that the reason I didn't pickup the highway patrol the other day was due to only having Ka 5,6 turned on.

Probably best to leave Ka 3,4,5,6 ON until we figure out the exact segmented frequencies/calibrate the detector.
 

UncleArthur

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This explains some of my observations, I was wondering if the police had changed frequences, I used to pick them up on around the 34.7Ghz range, and now I'm typically picking them up around the 34.6Mhz range. I have KA segments 4,5,6 enabled. Although let's face it. KA false alerts are rare, and the segmentation I was after was to cut down the K false alerts, so I could happily just open KA wide again. But I seem to be picking up LEO's just fine with 4,5,6 although yes the read out does seem to be about 0.1Ghz lower than actual. I can live with that if I have to.
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Some good news. Picked up 3 cops on SH1 today including a real good save (guy following behind got pulled over :/ )

I turned on Ka 3,4,5,6,7. When it picks up cops the frequency changes rapidly from 34.6 to 34.57 to 34.46 to 34.13GHz. It sort of cycles through these frequencies when I get a detection.

The frequencies have definitely dropped as it used to display 34.7Ghz back on the US firmware. Not a big deal for me however.

This verifies that the reason I didn't pickup the highway patrol the other day was due to only having Ka 5,6 turned on.

Probably best to leave Ka 3,4,5,6 ON until we figure out the exact segmented frequencies/calibrate the detector.
Thanks, I think I'll widen my segments to match yours
 

LinuxD

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is there any way to determine if the segmentation list in the above quoted post is accurate for USA DFR7's converted to NZ?
From what I have seen in my use, it's accurate
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The redlight database apparently works here in the US, I was in Raleigh,NC and got a coupe red light warnings and visually confirmed them. I too notice that the frequency detectio has seemed to drop just a tad
 
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KABAND

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I don't know if my detector is faulty or not - but with the NZ firmware on my LRD950 I've not had any Ka alerts from cop cars. I had 1 false Ka alert but that was it. I've driven past about 8 cop cars over the past 2 weeks and picked up nothing. Yesterday I was following highway patrol in a 60km/h zone and saw a cop flick his lights on, turn around and pull over a car for presumably speeding (unless based off number plate or something)? Maybe no one has been running radar lol.

I've turned on all Ka 4,5,6 and K1. I still get plenty false K band alerts from automatic doors etc. I doubt it's the firmware but to be sure I might try revert to US firmware.

Just in case, has anyone with the converted detector had real Ka alerts? I might have to get my detector tested with a stalker gun to be sure.

Hi,

Yes ... I am getting KA Alerts here in the states....
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I converted my US LRD950 to NZ FW
However compared to my Redline the reported frequencies are about 170-190MHz lower.
Initially I thought my Redline was defective.
 

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Mithheru

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Okay, I have spent some time taking the DFR7 apart and to retune against a Ka source.

I have now retuned the Ka by adjusting the 'centre' point screw, and then went for testing... Found a redflex van at the bottom of the road which was ideal coincidence. Tested the retuned DFR7 against Zakks DFR7 NZ original, and also my R7. Looks as though I have now dropped the K frequency down by about 0.04. Therefore, looks as though I also need to adjust the screw that likely alters the scanning width ('span') as well as adjusting the screw that adjusts the midpoint ('centre'). To get this right I probably need both a K source and a Ka source which I can use during tuning.

Note that the screws are really very fine adjustment, only a very small fraction of a turn is needed. I would generally not recommend attempting the adjustment unless you know your Ka detection is being compromised after the conversion.
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Sorry, meant to attach this file also showing the three screws, which clarifies exactly what I altered...

Tuning.jpg
 

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zuul

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Okay, I have spent some time taking the DFR7 apart and to retune against a Ka source.

I have now retuned the Ka by adjusting the 'centre' point screw, and then went for testing... Found a redflex van at the bottom of the road which was ideal coincidence. Tested the retuned DFR7 against Zakks DFR7 NZ original, and also my R7. Looks as though I have now dropped the K frequency down by about 0.04. Therefore, looks as though I also need to adjust the screw that likely alters the scanning width ('span') as well as adjusting the screw that adjusts the midpoint ('centre'). To get this right I probably need both a K source and a Ka source which I can use during tuning.

Note that the screws are really very fine adjustment, only a very small fraction of a turn is needed. I would generally not recommend attempting the adjustment unless you know your Ka detection is being compromised after the conversion.
thanks again for your hard work on this! i would imagine that most people are like me... and don't mind having to include an extra segment or two to cover +/- .04 of a variance as opposed to cracking the thing open and having a go at fine tuning.

i recently was able to confirm accurate red light camera detection as well as a picking up K band from a stationary "your speed is" warning sign... haven't run into any Ka band yet...

the only thing i noticed with the K band alert is that the signal seemed to be modulating rather rapidly between 24.09 and 24.12...

i noticed during the initial video test you shot that there was some modulation with the Ka band as well...
 

Mithheru

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the only thing i noticed with the K band alert is that the signal seemed to be modulating rather rapidly between 24.09 and 24.12...

i noticed during the initial video test you shot that there was some modulation with the Ka band as well...
I haven't noticed anything unusual in this. The noticed a similar thing also on the DFR7, but likewise noted the same behaviour on an unmodified R3 and DFR9 tested inhouse under similar conditions. In fact I note the R3 makes a little 'dingle' sound when it confirms a shift in the Ka frequency. It did this even when there was only a single Ka source in my garage with the door shut, when I was elsewhere in the house.

It would be so much easier if we could actually 'see' radar. You'd then be able to see what it was reflecting off, as well as seeing a difference in the shade of the colour depending upon what it was reflecting off, and whether that thing was in fact moving. So yes, it could be something in the way the detectors are processing the signal, or something about the signal itself. Can't really say more than that.
 

KABAND

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Interesting,

Couldn't you just have measured the resistance of the potentiometer / trimmer setings of the NZ DFR7 and
compare it to the converted unit?

I know it might not be directly apply-able because of tolerances though.

My KA frequency shift was about -.200 GHz (200MHz)

You're saying you could adjust by 40MHz? (0.04) ?





Okay, I have spent some time taking the DFR7 apart and to retune against a Ka source.

I have now retuned the Ka by adjusting the 'centre' point screw, and then went for testing... Found a redflex van at the bottom of the road which was ideal coincidence. Tested the retuned DFR7 against Zakks DFR7 NZ original, and also my R7. Looks as though I have now dropped the K frequency down by about 0.04. Therefore, looks as though I also need to adjust the screw that likely alters the scanning width ('span') as well as adjusting the screw that adjusts the midpoint ('centre'). To get this right I probably need both a K source and a Ka source which I can use during tuning.

Note that the screws are really very fine adjustment, only a very small fraction of a turn is needed. I would generally not recommend attempting the adjustment unless you know your Ka detection is being compromised after the conversion.
Post automatically merged:

Sorry, meant to attach this file also showing the three screws, which clarifies exactly what I altered...
 

Mithheru

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Couldn't you just have measured the resistance of the potentiometer / trimmer setings of the NZ DFR7 and
compare it to the converted unit?

I know it might not be directly apply-able because of tolerances though.

My KA frequency shift was about -.200 GHz (200MHz)

You're saying you could adjust by 40MHz? (0.04) ?
I possibly could have done that, however, everybody is reporting different amounts of shifting. My two units were not quite the same.

I found a K source and went to recalibrate against both K and Ka. However, my K band was reading almost the same the original DFR7 NZ, and within the degree of error when compared to the R7. So overall, I think it probably just needs adjusting to 'center' the detector. Therefore it suggests the firmware change likely cuts a part off the top of Ka band and uses this to extent the bottom of K band. I'm not quite sure, but it seems to be about right now. I'll run this as my main detector over the next couple of weeks and see what frequencies it reports, especially on Ka band, and lower K band. I'll also run conventional NZ segments, i.e. K1 and Ka 4, 5, and 6.
 

Phil Mc

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successfully converted my USA DFR7 to NZ spec today. thanks $1,000,000.00 to @Mithheru for all his hard work on this project and the excellent step by step instructions!
Hey, can you send.me the instructions?
i haven't actually used my DFR7 since the conversion to NZ firmware... but what you're reporting is scary... that potentially we are losing Ka functionality by doing the NZ conversion...

i would be curious if anyone else has done any real world testing with the conversion... it seems like this issue needs to be resolved one way or another ASAP.
hi, is the nz conversion worth it?
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successfully converted my USA DFR7 to NZ spec today. thanks $1,000,000.00 to @Mithheru for all his hard work on this project and the excellent step by step instructions!
Hey, can you send.me the instructions?
 
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Mithheru

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All the instructions you need are on that thread. Let me need help if there's anything you're not sure about.
 

zuul

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I have a MacBook and I can’t download the USB drivers for windows.
as far as i know the conversion works with windows only. stuff like this... is why i keep a cheap windows machine around... i don't use it that much... my main machines are mac's. but it's nice to have the windows laptop lying around for scenarios like this.
 

jonup

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I have a MacBook and I can’t download the USB drivers for windows.
as far as i know the conversion works with windows only. stuff like this... is why i keep a cheap windows machine around... i don't use it that much... my main machines are mac's. but it's nice to have the windows laptop lying around for scenarios like this.
It installation instructions here include Mac subfolder. If the make drivers are not included on there, just go to uniden website and grab them from there. But everything else is already included in the .zip file.
 

Mithheru

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Sorry, guys, I perhaps could have made this clearer:

The DFR7 conversion is WINDOWS only (see also the instructions).

The USB drivers are available for Mac but there is no upload tool. As far as I know, Uniden never released anything for the DFR7 which was compatible with Mac. Uniden New Zealand do not even support updates for the R3 NZ and R7 NZ on Mac. I can convert the R3 US to R3 NZ on Mac, but that is as far as I can go on Mac without proper upload tools. DFR7 upload tool is too fragile to modify, and has no recovery mode. Please don't attempt updating a DFR7 on Mac as you will likely waste your time, or else risk a high chance of terminating your detector.
 

KABAND

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@Mithheru
Have you (between converted/NZ type) actually cross checked the frequency divination on X,K,KA Band.
?
And did adjusting the 'trimmer' fix the issue?
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As posted earlier my converted LRD950 reports about 150-200MHz lower than the actual radar frequency.
I tested this on KA band (not sure about other bands)

Interestingly 150- 200MHz is also the difference in lower K band detection between the US version and the NZ version.

US Version (K BAND) -> 24.150GHz
NZ Version (K BAND) -> 23.950 – 24.110GHZ / 24.110 – 24.250GHz

Here's the link for the US spec ... would be interesting to get the NZ version (if there is such a thing)

 
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Mithheru

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And did adjusting the 'trimmer' fix the issue?
I think you are probably correct. I very finely adjusted the 'center' screw checked against a calibrated stalker. Seems to be about right on both Ka and K bands now. At least within the error of difference when compared to an NZ original DFR7 and an R7. If people do feel the need to retune, I can post some instructions for opening up the detector without damaging the case or plastic clips etc.
 

KABAND

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I wonder why there is a deviation at all, I would have thought that the frequency readout is 'just' a digital frequency counter ...

I'm also slightly concerned that by adjusting the 'center' trimmer other parameters get changed.
Such as band frequency sweeps ...

Please share how to open up the unit :)




I think you are probably correct. I very finely adjusted the 'center' screw checked against a calibrated stalker. Seems to be about right on both Ka and K bands now. At least within the error of difference when compared to an NZ original DFR7 and an R7. If people do feel the need to retune, I can post some instructions for opening up the detector without damaging the case or plastic clips etc.
 

Mithheru

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Okay,

Here's a video I just made for you...


When adjusting the tuning with the PH1 screwdriver bit, just use the bit in an extension part and turn it very gently in your fingers. If you use a screwdriver, you'll probably over do it. As long as you don't touch any of the main board you should be fine tuning this with the unit turned on (preferably with the Ka source frequency being visible on the display as you tune it).
 

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