Weatherproofing a V1

CA90

Learning to Fly
Beginner User
Premium Member
Joined
Jul 10, 2019
Messages
242
Reaction score
261
Location
somewhere, over the raiinbow
I've seen the Armour cases that are/used to be available, but has anyone weatherproofed their V1 for remote installs using other methods?

I'm considering a remote mount and while it isn't direct contact with rain like mounting it in the grill, rain may splash or drip in the area. I only need the front facing horn in this situation.

A couple ideas:
- Put inside metal or plastic "project box" and cut an opening for the front horn and seal with silicon.
- (Crude) Wrap V1 in a plastic bag and taping off the end.
 

Deacon

TXCTG
Advanced User
Lifetime Premium Member
Joined
Nov 13, 2016
Messages
10,205
Reaction score
12,540
Location
Hill Country, TX
You don’t need to cut a window in the thin flat plastic of a box you put it in. Radar will go right through.

Without more details I don’t have much less to add, but if you think it’s just some drops I wouldn’t worry so much about it. Put a Tupperware lid over it and call it a day. Let air circulate :)
 

CA90

Learning to Fly
Beginner User
Premium Member
Joined
Jul 10, 2019
Messages
242
Reaction score
261
Location
somewhere, over the raiinbow
You don’t need to cut a window in the thin flat plastic of a box you put it in. Radar will go right through.

Without more details I don’t have much less to add, but if you think it’s just some drops I wouldn’t worry so much about it. Put a Tupperware lid over it and call it a day. Let air circulate :)
I've been debating installing dual V1s in the Model S. When I bought one for the bike I ended up getting two for a decent price. The reason I considered the cut out is because it would already be sitting behind the nose cone plastic, so covered it's got more to go through.

I'm just not sure how much water makes it up into that area of the nose. It would be nice to keep the STiR+ for Ka, but in the nose they would probably be 18" apart.

It can't in the cabin because the windshield blocks the signals and between the PhotoSync and a new windshield it would cost as much as a Radenso RC M.
 

LouG

PSL +5
Intermediate User
Joined
Jan 2, 2014
Messages
2,668
Reaction score
2,820
Even if it's not in a splash zone, it's in a damper, more humid atmosphere. (unless you live in Death Valley) If you're anywhere near salt laden air that'll play havoc with the electrics.
I had a clear moulded housing for the V1 on my bike, but I could take it out easily and keep it in a dry area when not in use. For a permanent installation I'd look at a sealed box of the type they use for electronics. I used one of those for the dongle, hardwire connection etc under a side cover on the bike.
 

chakeubeam

To Be Determined...
Advanced User
Manufacturer
Joined
Jul 11, 2014
Messages
4,002
Reaction score
2,311
Location
Texas
on’t have much less to add, but if you think it’s just some drops I wouldn’t worry so much about it. Put a Tupperware lid over it and call it a day. Let air circulate :)
If im being totally honest you could probably pull this off as a short term thing with just plastic wrap depending on how hot the climate you live in is and proximity to the engine.
Cons:
It could ruin your V1
loss of arrows
loss of range
additional acc cost

Solution: Why not just buy a used STIR or 9500ci built for the task? Youll have worse filtering but butter range and itll probably cost half as much.
 

CA90

Learning to Fly
Beginner User
Premium Member
Joined
Jul 10, 2019
Messages
242
Reaction score
261
Location
somewhere, over the raiinbow
If im being totally honest you could probably pull this off as a short term thing with just plastic wrap depending on how hot the climate you live in is and proximity to the engine.
It's going in a Tesla so no engine heat. The climate is hot 100-105 in summer, but in the nose it won't be as hot as it would be sitting in most people's cars.

Cons:
It could ruin your V1
loss of arrows
loss of range
additional acc cost
I have 2 V1s in hand so I can have ghetto arrows, but range is an issue.

Solution: Why not just buy a used STIR or 9500ci built for the task? Youll have worse filtering but butter range and itll probably cost half as much.
I have dual STiR+ in the car already and K band is horrible. It isn't so bad around where I live, but on a recent road trip it was muted almost the entire trip because it never stopped alerting. I mean that seriously, it was HORRIBLE! If I had known how out of date the STiR was I would have sold the NIB I had instead of installing it.

I can only space them about 18" apart so running both isn't an option either.
 

mrmagloo

PSL +5
Intermediate User
Lifetime Premium Member
Joined
Jun 15, 2017
Messages
429
Reaction score
362
Location
NW Chicago Burbs
Imho, if you want a remote unit, get rid of the V1 and go with something else. I've seen people try all sorts of things over the years to convert the V1 to a remote with minimal degrees of success. You will lose range moving it to the nose compared to high up on the windshield, and as mentioned earlier, the rear will be severely compromised. So from a tactical standpoint, it significantly reduces the performance of the RD.

My buddy has his V1 mounted on the windshield of his Tesla, and it's working perfectly fine for him. What issue are you dealing with, other than looking for a more stealth mount?
 

IPA

Gimme Shelter
Intermediate User
Lifetime Premium Member
Joined
Feb 3, 2019
Messages
547
Reaction score
657
Location
Atl
Save your coin and get a true remote detector.

ALP + NR DSP
 

CA90

Learning to Fly
Beginner User
Premium Member
Joined
Jul 10, 2019
Messages
242
Reaction score
261
Location
somewhere, over the raiinbow
You will lose range moving it to the nose compared to high up on the windshield, and as mentioned earlier, the rear will be severely compromised.
Range loss is definitely a concern. The nose isn't that bad. The STiR+ picked up 34.7 over 2 mile away with X/K/2/4/5/6/8. I don't know how well it would have done if it was on the roof, but I don't feel the nose impacts it too too much. However, that may be different with a V1.

The rear would be taken care of with a 2nd V1 pointing out the rear.

My buddy has his V1 mounted on the windshield of his Tesla, and it's working perfectly fine for him. What issue are you dealing with, other than looking for a more stealth mount?
I have a pre-refresh P90D so the windshield blocks the signal. The 3 and refreshed Model S are fine. The cost to change that (windshield+PhotoSync) is as much as the Radenso RC M.
Post automatically merged:
Save your coin and get a true remote detector.

ALP + NR DSP
Yeah there's enough "don't do this" that I'll keep the dual STiR for now.
 

nicholat

Advanced User
Premium Member
Joined
Mar 24, 2012
Messages
1,612
Reaction score
1,110
Unless you can remove the air. Like the ac in your car. It is Evacuated to remove air and moisture, Replace with Freon. Heating and cooling will create moisture in the unit, damaging your V1.
 

LouG

PSL +5
Intermediate User
Joined
Jan 2, 2014
Messages
2,668
Reaction score
2,820
Unless you can remove the air. Like the ac in your car. It is Evacuated to remove air and moisture, Replace with Freon. Heating and cooling will create moisture in the unit, damaging your V1.
Nope. I've run my V1's in summer and winter, enclosed and not. Swapped from car to bike.
Did 650 km's, 500 in pouring rain and sleet, never had a problem. As long as it gets a spell in a dry area it's fine.
Even in your car it can go from 22C - 25C with heating on then drop to single digits in the garage overnight.
 

nicholat

Advanced User
Premium Member
Joined
Mar 24, 2012
Messages
1,612
Reaction score
1,110
yes by opening the enclosure, you are letting the moisture that was created out.
 

LouG

PSL +5
Intermediate User
Joined
Jan 2, 2014
Messages
2,668
Reaction score
2,820
No, the enclosure is vented, but rainproof.
 

Discord Server

Latest threads

Forum statistics

Threads
78,337
Messages
1,192,681
Members
19,977
Latest member
iunyan
Top