Thoughts on aftermarket power cords

ARkaband

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I'm tired of having my coiled cable hanging down, it doesn't look good and it draws attention to the detector.
Unfortunately, my mirror doesn't have power running up to it so hardwiring isn't an option.
What do you guys think of this cord?

I don't wanna mess up the electronics or anything like that by using a sub-standard power cable.
 

Smason

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Hardwiring is definitely an option. You can get a hardwire kit from various places that doesnt require a cig plug in.

Run the wire from the fuse panel by the kick panel up the a-pillar.

Or you can go with that if youd prefer.
 

NVR2FST

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Which Uniden detector do you have? If there is a button on your cigarette lighter plug you will lose whatever function it provides with the aftermarket straight wire adapter.

I just straightforward my curly cord by hand. I don't like seeing the coils, either.
 

ARkaband

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Which Uniden detector do you have? If there is a button on your cigarette lighter plug you will lose whatever function it provides with the aftermarket straight wire adapter.

I just straightforward my curly cord by hand. I don't like seeing the coils, either.
DFR7. I never use the mute button on the cable anyway.
 

Smason

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Currently using a R1 but im switching over to V1.

In the case of the R1 you loose the button for mute and dimming. Which could be easily bypassed by reaching up and pressing the button.

Your call at the end of the day.

Unless you want to get real fancy in which case i can tell you which two wires to put on a switch for your own mute/dim button on a hardwire install.
 

ARkaband

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Currently using a R1 but im switching over to V1.

In the case of the R1 you loose the button for mute and dimming. Which could be easily bypassed by reaching up and pressing the button.

Your call at the end of the day.

Unless you want to get real fancy in which case i can tell you which two wires to put on a switch for your own mute/dim button on a hardwire install.
Yeah, the Uniden hardwire kit on Amazon has this. My car is tiny and the detector is mounted right by the RVM, so I never use the mute button on the cable and don't care about losing it.
 

Tedles

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Hardwiring into the fusebox is really nice, cleans up the wires and frees up your 12V. I have a 10th gen civic, only big difference is you need to yank the A-pillar cover off. Fusebox is right in the driverside footwell, and there should be plenty of space in your headliner for a cable. The kits on amazon make it super easy. This is the one I used: Amazon.com: Radar Detector 10ft Hardwire Kit for Escort Valentine One Uniden Beltronics | 3 Sizes of Tap a Fuse Included | Quick Connection Plug and Play: Car Electronics
I have a Viofo A129 and R3 hardwired.
 

CobawLT2010

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I usually buy escort branded ones... although the V1 hardwire is quality as well...

I actually just hardwired to my new car again this last week...
 

Ropchips

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There are two reasons that I personally prefer using the oem Uniden hardwire kit.
1. The mute button. (It can be placed anywhere you want it with a little modification.)

2. The power and alert leds allow me to run with display off. If my R3 is on...so is the power led. (Leds also can be placed anywhere with modification.)
Extended%20Mute%20.jpg
2019-10-06%2015.55.05.jpg


Sent from my
 

oktavf

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There are two reasons that I personally prefer using the oem Uniden hardwire kit.
1. The mute button. (It can be placed anywhere you want it with a little modification.)

2. The power and alert leds allow me to run with display off. If my R3 is on...so is the power led. (Leds also can be placed anywhere with modification.)View attachment 131628View attachment 131629

Sent from my
That is sliiiiick! Nice job!! :shadyhat:
 

Toyotask

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Using the unit's own cable will cause image pollution for me. So I chose the connection from the fuse box. The only problem is the mute button. If I can access the electronic schema, I will do it in the future
 

Ropchips

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Using the unit's own cable will cause image pollution for me. So I chose the connection from the fuse box. The only problem is the mute button. If I can access the electronic schema, I will do it in the future
Why do you need the schematic?
 

Deacon

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Unfortunately, my mirror doesn't have power running up to it so hardwiring isn't an option.
As others have pointed out, it’s absolutely an option, and a good one, too. Go ahead and do a proper hardwire to the fuse box. You’ll love it.

I have my vehicles hardwired for V1, so no additional work is needed if I want to run my R3 or DFR6 or Bel Magnum, etc. But these guys have a great selection of options including discrete mute buttons and alert LEDs of you want them. Their website is the absolute worst, though.

 

dino ssss

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There are two reasons that I personally prefer using the oem Uniden hardwire kit.
1. The mute button. (It can be placed anywhere you want it with a little modification.)

2. The power and alert leds allow me to run with display off. If my R3 is on...so is the power led. (Leds also can be placed anywhere with modification.)View attachment 131628View attachment 131629

Sent from my
Nice! can you go into more detail on what leds were used?
 

Ropchips

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Nice! can you go into more detail on what leds were used?
Absolutely. They are a dual color milky diffused low mcd green/red 5mm led. Simply reverse the polarity to change the color. I purchased from a local electronics parts store. Here's a link to their website http://www.intertexelectronics.com/mobile/Linrose-B4301H15-RedGreen-LED-T1-5mm-Diffuse66-MCD2228V-P10493.aspx and a way more expensive Amazon link https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008JH3UZ8/?tag=rdf0cd0c-20
The led lenses I use were purchased from https://www.mouser.com/Optoelectronics/LED-Indication/LED-Lenses/_/N-b1d1r?P=1z0wumc
 

Ropchips

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I want to place the mute button where I can easily reach it.
The mute button is a momentary switch. Just solder the wires from the switch of your choice to the underside of the board where the mute button is soldered like in the attached pic. To verify that you are going to solder at the correct location you can use a DMM and check for continuity, with mute button pressed, between the two solder joints.

Sent from my
2019-09-06%2001.30.07-1.jpg


Sent from my
 

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