Anyone use an aftermarket Amp on factory BOSE speakers (Porsche)?

Gothamnyc

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So I am going to be driving a 2007 997 Porsche 911 for a while... Currently has the awful and dated Porsche head unit and a Tooki bluetooth adapter that is horrible.... Car has a BOSE system with the rear subwoofer... I am going to swap out the head unit for a double din Alpine ILX-2007 touch screen unit with car play. Bose/Porsche has a rather expensive fiber optic cable system, the adapter is about $600 retail... My installer said he will bypass it and run a nice 5ch JL Audio amp and some crossovers to the factory speakers....Has anyone ever used an aftermarket amp on factory Bose speakers? Debating swapping out all the factory speakers if they sound bad once amped....
 

Smason

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An audio enthusiast will say sure. Its a speaker so all it does at the end of the day is produce sound from a signal.

An audiophile will tell you that will mess everything up as they weren't designed for each other.

Your call.

I have a cheap walmart amp (~100bucks) for my bose speakers that i pulled out some optioned out Acura that was in a front end collision. Sounds great and ive had no issues.

What does 'driving for a while mean'? Weeks/Months/Years?
 

sdrawkcaB

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An audiophile will tell you that will mess everything up as they weren't designed for each other.
@Smason is correct. The bose speakers that came with the car run through the factory amp, connected with fiberoptics to the factory headunit. If you bypass the factory amp and connect to the bose speakers, you'd really want to end up replacing the bose speakers as well. You don't have to, but once you replace the headunit and the amp, you'll find that the speakers are now the bottleneck in sound quality. Nothing against Bose, but it's like upgrading performance parts on your cars powertrain, you want to have them all be able to support each other to really enjoy it.

Which JL amp are you looking at? Way back in the mid 2000's, I had the JL 300/4 (v2) and 500/1 (v2). Those were unbelievably powerful. In 2010 I had a JL XD 600/6 (v1). That was an awesome amp, and being a digital amplifier (as opposed to the Slash series) it used 1/2 the power that the Slash series did. The audio quality was also very impressive. I used that amp with Hertz HSK165 XL's. Hertz HSK XL's really blew my mind for sound quality. They didn't distort when you cranked it. FWIW the HSK appears to have been replaced by the ESK series now. Look up Hertz Energy ESK and Hertz Mille MLK and Hertz Mille MPK (MLK Pro).
 

The Mighty Four Banger

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Upgrading from stock to a quality head unit will do wonders on a car and I’d say try that first but you’re in a real predicament with that adapter.. you might as well have him do the amp too.

As for the speakers themselves, factory speakers are a real mixed bag. But most likely with the Bose upgrade they probably have a lot more life left in them Importantly, if the guy does everything and you still decide to put new speakers in down the road, all the work has been done already and you just swap the speakers out which should be real easy, especially if you use crutchfield.
 

Smason

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Just a quick google found this!!

Click me
Allows connection to the Porsche factory amplifier, the output from all speakers including subwoofer, and premium sound quality to be retained when installing ANY aftermarket radio.

Compatible with the following models:
Porsche Cayenne 2005 - 2011
Porsche Cayman 977 / 911 2005 - 2011
Porsche Boxster 2005 - 2011
 

Gothamnyc

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Just a quick google found this!!

Click me
Allows connection to the Porsche factory amplifier, the output from all speakers including subwoofer, and premium sound quality to be retained when installing ANY aftermarket radio.

Compatible with the following models:
Porsche Cayenne 2005 - 2011
Porsche Cayman 977 / 911 2005 - 2011
Porsche Boxster 2005 - 2011
Thanks! I appreciate you taking the time to look!The reviews on most of those inexpensive ones are they are pretty bad sadly...Volume control suffers, fade/balance is out of wack and the sound quality is a crap shoot... Nav TV makes the unit everyone seems to be happy with...

@sdrawkcaB I am looking at this one, my price is closer to $300 which makes it a lot less than the NAV TV adapter...
Paired with this

In this care I am not overly worried about sound quality, just would prefer it doesn't sound worse than stock... You sit in front of the engine to start with and it has a full exhaust header/cats and cans... The primary reason for the upgrade is well the Infotainment system is almost 16 years old and dated, the Nav is slow, radio adjustments awkward and the Tooki bluetooth is beyond quirky...

@The Mighty Four Banger that's a great idea, get them up and running and if its not livable do a component swap....Thanks
Post automatically merged:
What does 'driving for a while mean'? Weeks/Months/Years?
Its not my daily driver and living in the Northeast it spends most of winter in storage out of the way... Combined with my wife's SQ5 being ton of fun to beat on it sees limited use...Thinking about trading it in off and on too...
 
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The WiZard

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I have done what you are considering many times on the 996, 997, and 986 platforms. You will need a passive or active crossover setup to manage the door speakers, as the factory amplifier does this currently. The tweeter, midrange, and door woofer all have dedicated channels at the amplifier. If your car is equipped with a center channel speaker on the dashboard, you will lose use of it after swapping to an aftermarket head unit and amplifier. There are much more expensive options which allow you to retain this.

Also, as you know, communication between the factory head unit and amplifier is done via fiber (MOST) system. Electrical noise does not travel via fiber. But it can travel via copper / aluminum. So if the new aftermarket amplifier is installed in the trunk, great care must be taken in routing the rca cables to minimize any induced system noise. If the amplifier is being installed somewhere in the cabin, you “should” be fine. Porsche’s historically have been notoriously noisy platforms for aftermarket stereos due to many high current cables running the length of the car.

The easy way out is the Nav-TV option. It’s a 30-60 min install start to finish. Whichever route you choose, good luck.
 

romclean

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Trash the Bose. Jl is a much better platform for car audio. It’s like comparing a cobra and Uniden for us countermeasures enthusiasts.
 

Gothamnyc

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Trash the Bose. Jl is a much better platform for car audio. It’s like comparing a cobra and Uniden for us countermeasures enthusiasts.
I know when I was a kid the subs were amazing as I had 2 12's ins a sealed box and the bass was intense... Are the components the same? Been a long time since I did this...
 

997ONR

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I have done what you are considering many times on the 996, 997, and 986 platforms. You will need a passive or active crossover setup to manage the door speakers, as the factory amplifier does this currently. The tweeter, midrange, and door woofer all have dedicated channels at the amplifier. If your car is equipped with a center channel speaker on the dashboard, you will lose use of it after swapping to an aftermarket head unit and amplifier. There are much more expensive options which allow you to retain this.

Also, as you know, communication between the factory head unit and amplifier is done via fiber (MOST) system. Electrical noise does not travel via fiber. But it can travel via copper / aluminum. So if the new aftermarket amplifier is installed in the trunk, great care must be taken in routing the rca cables to minimize any induced system noise. If the amplifier is being installed somewhere in the cabin, you “should” be fine. Porsche’s historically have been notoriously noisy platforms for aftermarket stereos due to many high current cables running the length of the car.

The easy way out is the Nav-TV option. It’s a 30-60 min install start to finish. Whichever route you choose, good luck.
Hi there, came across this comment while researching how to replace the head unit on my 09 C4S. It was very useful and on point.

Like the OP indicated, I'm inclined to replace the BOSE amp rather than spend the money on the MOST adapter but for reasons of simplicity and cost, I'd prefer to keep my existing BOSE speakers. Could you please elaborate on 'passive or active crossover setup to manage the door speakers'? Is this a function of most amplifiers or is it a separate product that I can buy?

Another question...I understand my BOSE amp is under the passenger seat, so I presume that the speaker wiring is all routed there. Are there amplifiers with the same pinout connections as the BOSE, or will my installer have to make his own custom wiring connections?

FWIW - I understand that one of the limitations of the Nav-TV (and similar products) is that you lose the front / rear fader capability.
 

Deacon

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Could you please elaborate on 'passive or active crossover setup to manage the door speakers'?
I can’t speak to the rest of your stuff, but a crossover in general is used to limit the frequencies sent to a given speaker. So you can dial back the low-frequency signal to a speaker that doesn’t handle it well or cut the high frequencies to a sub that shouldn’t be trying to reproduce them, etc.
 

Gothamnyc

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@997ONR Long story short, PM me if you need more details... We were able to replace the head unit and run parts of the factory speaker system off of it, than replace the factory Bose amp and power the remaining factory speakers, removed the bose sub amp and ran the sub off the 5ch amp too with a bass control knob...The speakers have some sort of internal passive crossover... End of the day the factory Bose speakers and subs sound better to my ears and I got all the benefits of a modern GPS/Bluetooth?apple play etc...
 

The WiZard

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Just a heads up for future reference, the limitting factor of most Bose systems is NOT the speaker, it’s almost always the active processor / crossovers that output signal to the speakers. At the expense of fidelity, Bose uses active filtering and tuning curves to limit the low and high frequency output at the speaker in order to control distortion and preserve the driver unit (tweeter, woofer, etc). This is why industry folks can usually pick out a Bose system in autos, commercial spaces, etc without ever seeing the components of the system. It’s also where the term “No highs, no lows, it must be Bose“ came from.

On a separate note, I myself and a few sound engineer colleagues have done research and comparisons on several noise canceling headphones available on the market today. Sony 1000x series, Sennheiser PXC-550, Beats Studio 3, and Bose QC35 were all compared. The worst audio performing headphones at the time were the Bose QC 35, and for the same exact reasons I mentioned above. The QC 35 does have the most effective noise cancellation, but does create quite a bit of pressure in the ears when NC is active. I can go into more detail on the others if desired, but if you air travel a lot and were on the fence, buy the Sony’s.
 

Autotech198

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Been there done that trash all of those speakers and start go aftermarket, WAY BETTER.
 

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