Oil change opinions.

Th3 Factory Freak

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Opinions please.
I have an Beemer garage queen that I probably put less than 300 miles a year on.
It uses synthetic oil.
Should I follow the change oil every six months rule regardless of the miles driven? There are a lot of different opinions on this online so I thought I'd ask here.
Thanks
I have an ISF garage queen. I use RedLine 5W-30, car gets about 3000 miles a year of usage. I change the oil once a year.
 

Up All Night

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Hope you guys have qualified workers with cleaning certifications in dusting to clean them off while they are sitting.
IMG_5181.JPG

Wait a min, I haven’t started the G in a month & half but he’s on life support with a battery tender.
Which reminds, have to go get a e-check while the weathers nice since he doesn’t play in the snow. AHH, a reason to take him out.
Posted from my iPhone using the RDF Mobile App!
 
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2019Redeye

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If it’s a new car and covered under a warranty follow manufacture suggested intervals.

Hellcat is every 6 months.
 

angrypenguin

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I don't know much about this, but I don't see why you would need to change synthetic oil after 6 months.
Most important thing would be to make sure you at least start it every week to keep it circulated.


View attachment 127652
No, you need to not only start it every once in a while but you need to get it to full operating temperature in order to burn off the water and fuel that is in the crankcase. Fuel dilution is a major problem for several engines these days that are direct injected.

As far as oil frequency changes, you must follow whatever the OEM specs. Too frequent oil changes is also bad as virgin oil has very high volatility which in turn causes excessive intake valve carbon buildup.

I have written essays on this very topic but this is a high level summary.
 

Buz

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- You start your garage queen every morning 365 days an year and drive it 0.82191780821917808219178082191781 miles ?
Your oil will get humidity and whatnot from condensation. Change it every six months or less.

- You start your garage queen every morning 365 days an year, let it idle at 2000rpm for 15 minutes so it can warm up correctly and drive it 0.82191780821917808219178082191781 miles ?
Change your oil every six months.

- You start your garage queen every weekend and drive it 5.7692307692307692307692307692308 miles ?
Change your oil every six months

- You start your garage queen every month and drive it 25 miles ?
Change your oil once per year.

- You start your garage queen once per year and drive it 300 miles ?
Keep your oil level one quart under the maximum amount of oil allowed for an oil change (unless your beauty has a 2 qt oil capacity or something, which I doubt :) ). Before starting it, pour half a quart in, so you can get some fresh oil on your bone dry camshafts and whatnot (I'm exagerating, with a modern quality synthetic oil you'll still have some oil film left)

Short story: if you drive more often than once per month - change it once per year.
If you drive it in warm weather only - change it once per year.
If you let it sit for more than a couple of months, during the winter for example - pour some oil in before starting it.


If you're this guy and need to go to the boat every day - every six months or less.

View attachment 127653


All this - provided you're a maniac, and that we are talking good quality synthetic oil.
If not - change it once per year with good quality synthetic oil and don't worry about it.
Nailed it!
Thread should have been closed after this post.
 

Phantom Z3

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No, you need to not only start it every once in a while but you need to get it to full operating temperature in order to burn off the water and fuel that is in the crankcase. Fuel dilution is a major problem for several engines these days that are direct injected.

As far as oil frequency changes, you must follow whatever the OEM specs. Too frequent oil changes is also bad as virgin oil has very high volatility which in turn causes excessive intake valve carbon buildup.

I have written essays on this very topic but this is a high level summary.
My OEM spec is 15k miles. Certain BMWs and Volkswagens from the 90s and 2000s had sludge issues if you followed OEM spec. Also, the older the car and the harder it's driven, the more blowby you get.

As for direct injection engines, fuel dilution of the oil is nothing compared to the deposits you get from blowby getting shoved up the intake.
 

oktavf

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My OEM spec is 15k miles. Certain BMWs and Volkswagens from the 90s and 2000s had sludge issues if you followed OEM spec. Also, the older the car and the harder it's driven, the more blowby you get.
If I recall correctly that was right around the same time BMW offered "free oil changes" so they jacked up the mileage to save money and in turn screwed up a bunch of engines instead...
 

Phantom Z3

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If I recall correctly that was right around the same time BMW offered "free oil changes" so they jacked up the mileage to save money and in turn screwed up a bunch of engines instead...
I believe this was when BMW overestimated stuff to show they are better than other brands. They still do it and you'll find many BMW engines with oil ring carbonization issues causing increased oil consumption or just plainly sludge and stuck lifters.
 

angrypenguin

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If I recall correctly that was right around the same time BMW offered "free oil changes" so they jacked up the mileage to save money and in turn screwed up a bunch of engines instead...
While I agree with you the optics are bad, depending on when they did this (early 2010s?), that was when oil makers finally realized that NOACK values are important and that volatility of engine oil is a key factor in intake valve buildup of carbon.

It was determined actually that too frequent of an oil change interval (OCI) did in fact lead to increased carbon buildup.

That said, I'm happy to talk about engine air oil separators that are built in and what components of oil now are responsible for keeping carbon buildup at bay but I suspect I'll bore many. Those of you interested, take a look at the new SN Plus designation which helps with mitigating LSPI and intake valve buildup.
 

Phantom Z3

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While I agree with you the optics are bad, depending on when they did this (early 2010s?), that was when oil makers finally realized that NOACK values are important and that volatility of engine oil is a key factor in intake valve buildup of carbon.

It was determined actually that too frequent of an oil change interval (OCI) did in fact lead to increased carbon buildup.

That said, I'm happy to talk about engine air oil separators that are built in and what components of oil now are responsible for keeping carbon buildup at bay but I suspect I'll bore many. Those of you interested, take a look at the new SN Plus designation which helps with mitigating LSPI and intake valve buildup.
Or just go watch the oil showdown from Project Farm...


This is also a good starter video on oil.
 

oktavf

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Gentleman... Lets not turn this into another oil thread. The internetz has enough and we don't want anymore stress and fighting here or over taxed new servers! :shifty::hmm::locked::cheerleader::drinking:

On topic: But yeah newer GDI engines for sure need oil separators from everything I've read!
 

Phantom Z3

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Gentleman... Lets not turn this into another oil thread. The internetz has enough and we don't want anymore stress and fighting here or over taxed new servers! :shifty::hmm::locked::cheerleader::drinking:

On topic: But yeah newer GDI engines for sure need oil separators from everything I've read!
Looks like I need to join bobistheoilguy.com :woot:
 

oktavf

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angrypenguin

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Looks like I need to join bobistheoilguy.com :woot:
BITOG is where I learned 100% of everything I know on this topic.

For those of you who want a VERY GOOD crash course:

 

oktavf

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angrypenguin

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No offense but that was murder to watch and could’ve been less than half the length and still could’ve gotten in the same kinda sorta close to some truth.
No offense taken. Did you really expect an engineer to get to the point? :D
 

holeinthehead

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Depends, is it a full true synthetic or one of the ones based on a petroleum oil or contains petroleum. The lowest grade so called Penzoil synthetic is mainly petroleum.

True Synthetics really only need changed when contaminates reach too high a level or they are really worn out and no longer provide sheer protection IE still providing proper lubrication (both are only known by oil testing). For those that don't test their oil, this is what the mileage and time guidelines are for so additives can be maintained, possible contaminates removed, and lubrication maintained IE better safe than sorry whether the oil is worn out/bad or not.

If I was only putting 300 miles a year on a vehicle with full true synthetic and I had no evidence of water, coolant, or gasoline in my oil IE no known engine issues such as leaks or worn rings, I would change the filter every year on my birthday, top off the oil, and do a full oil and filter change every 10 years.

I change the oil in my Expedition every 50K to 75K depending on the oil testing results. Every 5000 miles it gets a high quality filter, every 10K the bypass screen gets cleaned and bypass filter replaced, and of course I keep it topped off which is what replaces the used additives. I use a 25K miles/1 year interval Amsoil but since I do testing after the 6th filter change and I have a bypass filter that removes carbon it can go to 75K depending on hot weather and towing use. Because of the extended and bypass filter the truck also has an extra two quarts of oil a normal Expedition doesn't.
So pennzoil is no good?
I’ve seen a lot of YouTube videos where people rave about it, etc.
 

Deacon

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Asking about motor oil brands is too broad. There are numerous motor oil products and compositions that meet different standards for different applications. It’s a little like asking about brands of gasoline. Any top tier gasoline of the appropriate octane rating (resistance to combustion) for your vehicle (factory or tuned) will get the job done. There are some special cases where specific detergent formulas may be beneficial over time, but for most people just going with any tier one brand of gas for their Corolla or Tahoe or whatever is going to be just fine. Saying Exxon gas is great while Chevron is awful or that Valero has the best gas starts getting a little silly. Get it from a high volume station, and when in doubt go with Shell V-Power Nitro+ ;)
 

Phantom Z3

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No offense but that was murder to watch and could’ve been less than half the length and still could’ve gotten in the same kinda sorta close to some truth.
It's more aimed at car enthusiasts who just got off oil threads on forums. It also brings @angrypenguin and his case for using OEM mileage intervals and weights. Good for Joe and Suzie. Bad for someone like myself who hits redline about 20 times a day.
-- Double Post Merged: --
Italian tuneup!? :quagmire:
Only on non direct injection engines. Especially on rotaries. A redline a day keeps the carbon away.

Seriously though, it's not extremely effective to do once or twice a year. It's a lifestyle. (Also, if you really don't want carbon, get a catch can or PCV/EGR delete)
 
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