Hiding ALP CPU

Flonase

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Mine is behind instrument cluster. Kind of regret that location. Was easy to get all cables routed to it, but good grief was it a PITA to get back to it for HW4 CPU upgrade. If I had to do it again I’d go for the back of the under-dash panel beneath steering wheel / instrument cluster.
 

Saussie

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Yeah, 3M tape down the pants is fine until you need to remove it. I'm not Brazilian either.
Air con ducting ;) acts like a CPU heat sync
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Mine is behind instrument cluster. Kind of regret that location. Was easy to get all cables routed to it, but good grief was it a PITA to get back to it for HW4 CPU upgrade. If I had to do it again I’d go for the back of the under-dash panel beneath steering wheel / instrument cluster.
Was going to do this. I'm lucky, I've played around at the junkyard and examined wrecks, and learned all the ins and outs on particular models. Never seen a cop with a screwdriver either. If it's getting impounded, well... Ain't no place worth hiding it if they're going to pull everything apart anyway. Pays to hide it deep, but not too deep if you want to check cables or something. That applies to the CPU down the pants as well. Kinda gets awkward. Makes your balls heat up. Risk of electricution.
But you know the saying...

Never a lie spoken,
with electrodes on your scrotum. :spazface:
 
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davGTS

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I have mine in my kids lunch box sitting next to the battery just in front of the firewall. You need to remove the plastic covers to see it. Fortunately with the blue tooth it works well and no need to run cables into the cabin! Although I have no way of turning it off at the moment except for putting it in park mode as it is hard wired to the battery.

I'd like to make a more permanent solution once I work out how to get the wires through the firewall and to the fuse box!
 

Saussie

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I have mine in my kids lunch box sitting next to the battery just in front of the firewall. You need to remove the plastic covers to see it. Fortunately with the blue tooth it works well and no need to run cables into the cabin! Although I have no way of turning it off at the moment except for putting it in park mode as it is hard wired to the battery.

I'd like to make a more permanent solution once I work out how to get the wires through the firewall and to the fuse box!
Unsure what you're driving, but triple check if there's a rubber grommet or flange in the firewall. Sometimes they are hard to see from above. Sometimes it doesn't occur that they are removable. Might see one from underneath. If you're lucky the manufacturer has left one for accessories. Also have a look around the steering column, as that leads into the engine bay. Might find enough space there as well. Might need to shine a torch around it in the engine bay, and see if any light creeps through into the car. Also see if they have been generous with space where the existing cables enter the firewall. Could be room to squeeze there as well. Dunno. Worth a look before you start drilling anything.
If it's not a new car, try the junkyard and drill a few holes in their shells first and see where they come out. I did this and thought I had a prime spot behind the instrument cluster, only to find out it was a double wall with a slight cavity. Drill bit didn't come out the other side.
Wreck their stuff first before you attempt on your own car to be sure (if possible). They will only squash it into a block for scrap anyway, so no harm done. Originally planned to go wireless as well but worried about the heat. Turned out to be easier than I first thought due to a small rubber firewall cover over a hole. Also check around the brake booster, as your pedal has to plunge the master cylinder through the firewall. Windscreen wiper motor area on some cars is a good place to scope if the shroud on top is removable below the windscreen. Might need to unbolt the wipers to access it. Accelerator cable has to pass through a hole somewhere as well. Check behind the carpet if possible at your feet for space.
It's difficult sometimes to access these spots though. This is where the junkyard is handy to learn all the bits that might need removing and where the screws are. With any luck, someone's already dismantled half of the dash and interior for you.
If you service your car at a mechanics, ask if you can walk under the hoist and have a look upwards, or get the mechanic to check over it.
Fingers crossed for you when the time comes you get lucky and find an easy way.
 
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davGTS

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Thanks for the tips. My car, a 718, has electric steering and engine is actually behind the back seats so no issues withe heat up the front/frunk but car is fairly new so I've been hesitant to going too far with pulling off panels. I know Musicar has done a similar install but not sure if they will want to share with me their trade secrets! I did email them but will need to trying to ring. Anyway there is obviously a way, just a matter of hunting around as you say.
 

Saussie

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Cool.
I've never owned a new car. I've bought cars for a few thousand and found them to be not much better than ones for a few hundred. Had some very bad luck when younger with engines. Cracked 3 heads in 18months on a notorious lemon of a car I attempted to persist with. I got put off for a while. Even used to only ride a mountain bike over 100km a week as my only form of transport at one stage.
Eventually got back into it buying cheap cars. Bottom of the barrel restorations, backpackers leftovers, other people's problems. Have been repairing and restoring and flipping for a few years now. Most are around 20 years old which is why I looooove the junkyards! It's a playground for me. Cheap. Thrash the car. Care factor of zero. Crash it, run it into the ground. Don't care. Start over again for $500-$1000 bargain hunting and do it all again. Awesome haha!
If I win lotto though, for sure, I might buy something new and extra ordinary.
Only trouble with a new car is someone else knocking a shopping trolley into it in the car park or opening a door onto it, and all those little things. Daily wear and tear. Paint ain't cheap alone!
 
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