R1/R3 v1.50 Firmware Released

venom690

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I cannot get the v1.28 Updater to run on my desktop. The program won't open, yet appears in the task list. Tried it on my laptop and it worked fine, wierd.

Drove to work this morning, and silence. Thought something was wrong, but got a chirp just as I was parking. I always get one there so I'm liking it so far.
I have bad news for you.

Unfortunately, you have somehow corrupted the registry and now it will never run on your PC .

It happens to me, the only thing i can do is run it on the wife's PC and it opens fine.

I have tried uninstalling and reinstalling, including using Reevo.

Other than re-imaging the computer i do not know what to do about this.



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goblin

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...

Other than re-imaging the computer i do not know what to do about this.

...
I have yet to see anything that can't be uninstalled by Miscrosoft's own advanced uninstaller. Google MicrosoftProgram_Install_and_Uninstall.meta.diagcab

If that doesn't work, a registry search and delete for anything Uniden might also help (if it's a Uniden thing that is damaged in the registry and not something else).
 

westwind77

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I had a feeling there was a delay imposed to K Band when I updated from 1.37 to 1.50, and this helps confirm that. That bums me out, because I do see a lot of legit K around my area. However, I sit in so much dense traffic every day that having the K block made a world of difference around my area. I'll take the tradeoff honestly, albeit reluctantly.
There is no benefit to myself with K-block as one of my locals runs at 24.198/.199 - after seeing that I doubt I would ever run K-block. The risk is still slight, but not worth it.
 

CPB

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I've been using 1.50's K-Block for my commute since release. My commute is essentially Ka and LIDAR only, so the risk of k-band is already very low. So far I'm pleased with it, I've started to actually pay more attention to a K alert.

I intend to turn it off when traveling outside my area, as I don't want to risk missing some legitimate threats.
 

schwinn

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Bought a new cable on Amazon. It communicated the first time I plugged it in and auto loaded the drivers. I keep getting stuck at various points in the process. My screen doesn’t do what the video does at all. Have tried word for word from the Uniden instructions. Got to the desktop icon but it won’t do anything from there. I clicked the “auto” box but it just says “searching”. Can’t get past that.


Sent from my recliner while in stealth mode.
On Win10, I found I had to manually install the driver for the detector - Device Manager shows an error or unknown device. So, you open that up and then tell it to update driver from the one in the ZIP file. That's what worked for me.

On my older computer, I didn't have to do any of this, but W10 does weird things on USB sometimes.
 

SWB

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After several weeks with 1.50 update. No more Honda/Acura falses seems like. Have picked up few other falses that I didn't have before. All in all good update. Ka still has that range.
 

crabu2

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After several weeks with 1.50 update. No more Honda/Acura falses seems like. Have picked up few other falses that I didn't have before. All in all good update. Ka still has that range.
You'll still get Honda.. The just went lower in the band. There's just not as many as before, but it's growing. The other one that will get you is 24.12x... It's mostly Mazda. I never use to get Mazda till about a year ago. They started popping up and now I can't go 30 mins without one or two setting off my BSM.

BTW, I ignore my K band less than before.. and I'm starting to see more local leos running K band.. And they all seem to be between 24.150 and 24.157. At least that's what I'm seeing.
 
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Up All Night

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I have yet to see anything that can't be uninstalled by Miscrosoft's own advanced uninstaller. Google MicrosoftProgram_Install_and_Uninstall.meta.diagcab

If that doesn't work, a registry search and delete for anything Uniden might also help (if it's a Uniden thing that is damaged in the registry and not something else).
I run ccleaner on my PCs and it seems to work well. And it’s shareware.
To clean your Registry:
In CCleaner, click the Registry icon at left.
Optionally, select the items under Registry Clean you wish to scan (they are all checked by default). This is for advanced users - we recommend you leave all the items checked.
Click Scan for Issues. You'll see a progress bar and a list of potential issues.
Posted from my iPhone using the RDF Mobile App!
 
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mookiwan

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Reverted back to 1.37 tsf on tonight. Sure I had no Honda Acura on 1.50 but the random other k chirps seemed to increase exponentially.


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goodtimes40

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Unfortunately Europe is not their target market. Even if they offer K band segmentation, not many run it in the United States as it seems their gun calibration laws vary from State to State. The chance of them running into a gun that’s drifted off its rating plate designation is a real concern.

Canada and Europe it seems, have much stricter laws country wide than the states. Then again, Europe and Canada are not the target market.

I think they’re only paying attention to what goes on in Canada is because MRCT/MRCD is starting to make inroads into the US. Both are small potato markets.

The State of California has I believe 40 million people. Canada, the whole country, is about 35 million.



Your going to have to watch what happens on the progress of the R7 before it comes to the R3. That seems to be the focus, and rightly so, as it is their new flagship detector.

Of course Uniden (Attowave) is going to state it’s a temporary solution. It’s been an ongoing annoyance. Some just do it better without relying on blocking (muting), out a chunk of frequency, or even little bits of it.

No detector manufacturer is going to flat out state that they can’t achieve the level of BSM or false filtering that some of the competition can. Everything’s a trade off in the bigger picture.
You know what I drive with K Band 70%. 100% everything else. Xband off of course.
And with just regular settings k y k filter on and that's it except for the additional BSM filtering They just added and let me tell you that thing is so quiet around town and on the highway that it really just doesn't even bother me and maybe that's because I had a red line for 6 years that just was so chatty on K ban I've learned to mute it but for the most part I've hit my speed signs and mark them and muted the GPS which is a wonderful feature I cannot complain especially their range is absolutely sick. Laser is not an issue as on a radar it really doesn't matter anyway how good your detection is in my opinion it all comes down to how good your Jammers are
 

oversteer325

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Reverted back to 1.37 tsf on tonight. Sure I had no Honda Acura on 1.50 but the random other k chirps seemed to increase exponentially.


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Let us know if they really go away or if it is just the increase in quietness in 1.50 that made the other falses more noticeable. Also, when you see Honda falses watch the All Threat display and see if you get multiple signals that K-Block might be bringing forward rather than showing the 24.195-24.205. I’ve seen my heartbeat display stutter like crazy around Hondas on 1.50 so it seems like there may be more to the signal than just the K Block range.
 
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mookiwan

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First day of driving back on 1.37. I don’t want to say it is quieter (seems the same) but it seems like I can easily identify all the k bands coming in where as on 1.50 I would get random alerts even with nothing around that I could not distinguish. However, I could be crazy. This is by no means a good test environment with documented results. Maybe 1.37 tsf truly is magical.


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Deadhead1971

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I went from 1.37 to 1.50 just out of curiosity. The k-band 'delay' is still present, if not worse, than it was on 1.48 for myself. 1.37 is almost instant to react to my K-band Bushnell and 1.50 is very slow to alert.

I really want to get my hands on an R7 to see how it compares to the R3 on 1.37. If it is anything like 1.50 I might pass. The 360 alerts so much quicker than the R3 does now with 1.50 (all important settings equal). I might just drive around with it for the next week or so to see how it performs to see how it plays out in the 'real world', but I have a feeling I will drop back to 1.37 eventually.
What are /were your K settings? and I will do a test on my R1 with 1.5 using a MPH Python to see delay. I can post video
 

westwind77

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What are /were your K settings? and I will do a test on my R1 with 1.5 using a MPH Python to see delay. I can post video
Advanced w/ K @100% - K Filter On - TSF Off
 

KnightHawk

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I went from 1.37 to 1.50 just out of curiosity. The k-band 'delay' is still present, if not worse, than it was on 1.48 for myself. 1.37 is almost instant to react to my K-band Bushnell and 1.50 is very slow to alert.

I really want to get my hands on an R7 to see how it compares to the R3 on 1.37. If it is anything like 1.50 I might pass. The 360 alerts so much quicker than the R3 does now with 1.50 (all important settings equal). I might just drive around with it for the next week or so to see how it performs to see how it plays out in the 'real world', but I have a feeling I will drop back to 1.37 eventually.
One thing to keep in mind with your testing, your Bushnell K band radar is not as strong as police radar. That's is why I don't use a Bushnell radar gun for RD testing. You want to use real police radar to better and accurate results.
-- Double Post Merged: --
What are /were your K settings? and I will do a test on my R1 with 1.5 using a MPH Python to see delay. I can post video
This is the way to do a test.
 

KnightHawk

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What is its transmit power rating, and how does that compare to the range of different police radar offerings?
Bushnell does not give us enough information regarding the power rating/output for their radar guns. So we really don't know and can't compare it with other police radars. Technically speaking, I don't know. But practically speaking based on some testing in the past using a velocity Bushnell radar gun vs a police radar gun, a radar detector can pick up the signal farther away when a police radar gun is used compared to the Bushnell radar guns.
 

NorEaster18

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Let us know if they really go away or if it is just the increase in quietness in 1.50 that made the other falses more noticeable. Also, when you see Honda falses watch the All Threat display and see if you get multiple signals that K-Block might be bringing forward rather than showing the 24.195-24.205. I’ve seen my heartbeat display stutter like crazy around Hondas on 1.50 so it seems like there may be more to the signal than just the K Block range.
I’ve been paying attention a lot to this lately and realizing that I do indeed still get some Honda/Acura falses, just on different frequencies. And I’m convinced it comes from the detector getting hammered so hard by the signal it’s blocking that it punches thru on a different number. For instance, the other day I was alone on a backroad behind an MDX, and when we pulled up to a stop sign, I got blasted with 24.013. That’s below the R3’s scanning range. But I got it at the next stop sign too, still behind that MDX. Same frequency. No other possible sources of radar around.

I’ve been seeing it from other Honda’s and Acura’s too. Punch thrus at 24.11x - 24.14x with no other cars on the road and no other possible pollution points. I’m convinced there’s either still a signal to pick up or the detector cannot process what is going on with the block on and gives an arbitrary K band frequency


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Deacon

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Bushnell does not give us enough information regarding the power rating/output for their radar guns.
Oh? What’s the model number?

a radar detector can pick up the signal farther away when a police radar gun is used compared to the Bushnell radar guns.
There are many variables at play, even without including including the charge level of the batteries. Some guns produce signals that look closer to BSMS than others. And “police radar” is not an output figure. The output power specs of police radar can vary across quite a wide range.

Regardless, when testing the best question to ask is how different detectors (or firmware versions) respond to the same controller input that day. Power output ratings may make one source more convenient for one test or another, but writing off a source because it’s not putting out RF at the same number or mW as another is kind of irrelevant. If a detector with one firmware reacts more quickly or detects further away than with a different firmware on the same gun, you’ve got your answer no matter what brand the gun might be.

PS Lower output power, regardless of brand, is often helpful for testing. It gives you more options to up the difficulty and begin to tease out the differences between detectors without having to drive for loops measured in miles because you’ve got your K-cannon blasting straight down the barrel of a flat road.
 

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