Mirror tap? Greatest thing since sliced bread!

HyperM3

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What he is talking about are the half inch long exposed terminals at the end of the Mirror Tap IE the metal tips at the end of the Black and the Red colored ends. They are completely exposed and the Hot (red side) can easily touch grounded metal and the some versions of the MT idea don't even have a fuse.

Which is again why I highly recommend doing it correctly with a fused hardwire or using a proper Tap like the Posi-Tap that has NO exposed metal or probes! My best friend Kevin received two tickets because of Mirror Tap and the connection vibrating free dropping the power to his RD when he thought he was protected. He runs a proper hardwire now.
Im confused. Those half inch taps are what goes into the terminal(hopefully touching metal) to create the contact. Once they are in, they are no longer exposed. Plus, they vary in thickness(options) so if you have one that vibrated loose, you chose the wrong size. I literally needed pliars to pull mine out when I tested if they would stay in place.

Look, you use what you want to use. I had been doing a fuse tap for my detectors for the past 20 years. I got tired of taking apart a-pillars and dashes to wire every thing cleanly. Saw this option and gave it a shot. 5 minutes vs. 45 minutes and a lot cleaner Im sold. No issues with it so far.
 

Transporter

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Im confused. Those half inch taps are what goes into the terminal(hopefully touching metal) to create the contact. Once they are in, they are no longer exposed. Plus, they vary in thickness(options) so if you have one that vibrated loose, you chose the wrong size. I literally needed pliars to pull mine out when I tested if they would stay in place.

Look, you use what you want to use. I had been doing a fuse tap for my detectors for the past 20 years. I got tired of taking apart a-pillars and dashes to wire every thing cleanly. Saw this option and gave it a shot. 5 minutes vs. 45 minutes and a lot cleaner Im sold. No issues with it so far.

It takes me all of 5 to 10 minutes to do it right. No need to take the A-pillar or dash apart. The connection the MT makes was NOT what the connector was designed for and one either has excess contact sticking out the front side or it goes all the way in which is too far so there can be unprotected exposed hot either way usually.

If one doesn't want to be in the fuse box properly, then again like I said, use a Posi-Tap to tap the mirror power wires so the connectors stay original. And yes MT is an option, all I am saying is I have been doing high end car audio and accessories since my first car and dong it correctly is how issues are avoided.
 

tgsweat

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Im confused. Those half inch taps are what goes into the terminal(hopefully touching metal) to create the contact. Once they are in, they are no longer exposed. Plus, they vary in thickness(options) so if you have one that vibrated loose, you chose the wrong size. I literally needed pliars to pull mine out when I tested if they would stay in place.

Look, you use what you want to use. I had been doing a fuse tap for my detectors for the past 20 years. I got tired of taking apart a-pillars and dashes to wire every thing cleanly. Saw this option and gave it a shot. 5 minutes vs. 45 minutes and a lot cleaner Im sold. No issues with it so far.
this. i don't understand over complicating things.
 

heliskyr

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Why did I wait so long? Just picked up a new car Saturday and preemptively purchased a mirror tap to try. Other than figuring out which wires to actually tap into, this is amazing! I had been using the same V1 hardwire in my car(s) for the past 15 years. I just kept using it for each successive detector(thankfully they all used RJ11) and kept moving it from leased car to leased car.

I got tired of the routing of the wire through the car and the ugliness if someone saw it. For the money and the ability to pretty much use over and over again like I did the old hardwire, its a no-brainer.

Anyway, that's all I got, but I've never had such a cheap modification cause me so much joy before.
I agree that a mirrortap is a joy- until it's not. I had a situation where I had successfully created a functioning mirrortap for my R3 (& then R7) and took my car into the shop for some unrelated work. Apparently the tech didn't like my RD making noise so he unplugged the RD (apparently roughly, as the cord was pulled out of the tap.) I attempted to redo the tap and was unsuccessful, so I used a new cable and proceeded to short out my mirror-driven electronics. Operator error for sure, but now my built-in garage door opener, autodimming mirror, and whatever else is all apparently fried. So I'm back to using a clip-on garage door opener and annoying cigarette lighter smart cord for the R7.

I bring this up as a cautionary tale that if not done correctly, a mirror tap can go awry.
 

FunkyDoc

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Can anyone point me in the direction of the pins to use for Ford F350 RVM?
Not sure if this will work for you, but since Ford reuses parts across it's assembly lines, I found this video and used it to locate the pins for my Lincoln. YMMV, but hopefully it'll work for you.
 

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