Mirror tap? Greatest thing since sliced bread!

HyperM3

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Why did I wait so long? Just picked up a new car Saturday and preemptively purchased a mirror tap to try. Other than figuring out which wires to actually tap into, this is amazing! I had been using the same V1 hardwire in my car(s) for the past 15 years. I just kept using it for each successive detector(thankfully they all used RJ11) and kept moving it from leased car to leased car.

I got tired of the routing of the wire through the car and the ugliness if someone saw it. For the money and the ability to pretty much use over and over again like I did the old hardwire, its a no-brainer.

Anyway, that's all I got, but I've never had such a cheap modification cause me so much joy before.
 

thebravo

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you can also get mirror taps for dash cam's too so if you have one of those it's an easy add as well :)
 

HyperM3

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you can also get mirror taps for dash cam's too so if you have one of those it's an easy add as well :)
Shut the front door! I spent an hour routing the wires for my dash cam last night! The thing is, I couldnt use a mirror tap for my cam because I use something on the side that shuts it down from parking recording if it depletes the battery below a certain point. If I mirror tapped it, it would just keep going and going and battery would be dead.
 

user

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The only caution on the mirror tap is that I have had two professional installers tell me they won't use them any more. Both said that the wires tapped into in the RVM are very small quage with very little power and they have had several installs with them turn "flaky" with problems that were fixed by changing the power to come directly from the fuse box. Obviously that isn't always the case, but apparently often enough that they recommended against using them.
 

HyperM3

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The only caution on the mirror tap is that I have had two professional installers tell me they won't use them any more. Both said that the wires tapped into in the RVM are very small quage with very little power and they have had several installs with them turn "flaky" with problems that were fixed by changing the power to come directly from the fuse box. Obviously that isn't always the case, but apparently often enough that they recommended against using them.
Flaky with what kind of problems? I dont think the detector really uses that much power to cause any issues. If I were to add in the dash cam to the tap, I could imagine drawing too much current from one source without upping the fuse or something.
 

thebravo

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Part of it is getting a solid conection and proper strain relief. overtime vibrations can work the pins loose and cause the power to become intermittent. If the pins were a super tight fit then they should hold ok, if they were a touch loose might need to use a zip tie or a little dob of super glue to hold them in place so they don't wiggle out.
 

HyperM3

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Part of it is getting a solid conection and proper strain relief. overtime vibrations can work the pins loose and cause the power to become intermittent. If the pins were a super tight fit then they should hold ok, if they were a touch loose might need to use a zip tie or a little dob of super glue to hold them in place so they don't wiggle out.
I feel pretty confident they are tight since I had to use a needle nose plier to get them in there good and deep.
 

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Flaky with what kind of problems? I dont think the detector really uses that much power to cause any issues. If I were to add in the dash cam to the tap, I could imagine drawing too much current from one source without upping the fuse or something.
I'm honestly not sure. They both just said power supply problems that caused "flaky problems" that were hard to run down. Like the detector shutting down and back on, some display issues, that sort of thing but was alway solved by using a fuse tap instead. Just keep it in mind if you notice anything weird, otherwise your mirror tap is good.
 

Kennyc56

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I just did a mod sort of like this. I just upgraded Jane's Mustang from a Whistler CR95 to a new R1. I already had a new Whistler hardwire in place and didn't want to tear the dash and all of the panels apart again, so I cut the end of the Whistler cord which is a barrel style and cut an old V1 cord which of course is a RJ11 style end. I found the pos. and neg. wires and spliced them together, and the "new" cord is as good as new! This is why I never get rid of anything!
 
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EmJay

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It’s a great product and I’m pretty happy with how how much it cleaned things up next to my rear view mirror. Install was pretty straightforward and didn’t really experience any complications during the entire install process. Would absolutely recommend it to others!
 

Up All Night

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I already had a new Whistler hardwire in place and didn't want to tear the dash and all of the panels apart again, so I cut the end of the Whistler cord which is a barrel style
Future ref: you could have got an adapter



Posted from my iPhone using the RDF Mobile App!
 

Kennyc56

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Future ref: you could have got an adapter



Posted from my iPhone using the RDF Mobile App!
I called Best radar detectors for that adapter and they said it wouldn't work with a Whistler cord. It fits an older Escort cord with the barrel style end.
 

ScvttH

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I have a fusetap for my R7, and love it. Same concept as to why you got a mirror tap though, hides that wire nicely. My friend wont admit that he wants one, because he saw how difficult it was to route the wire up the A pillar, with an airbag and speaker in the way lol.
 

F350NAK

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Can anyone point me in the direction of the pins to use for Ford F350 RVM?
 

Transporter

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dma550x

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No judgement, but I've been doing 12V work since the 80's, and I have some serious cringe whenever I see those taps with 1/2" of exposed copper hanging out behind the connector. I've seen soldered de-strained connections come loose and start a little fire, I know the mirror probably has a 10a fuse behind it but I can't imagine just leaving that exposed like that. There is a reason the connection is completely contained within the connector.
 

HyperM3

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No judgement, but I've been doing 12V work since the 80's, and I have some serious cringe whenever I see those taps with 1/2" of exposed copper hanging out behind the connector. I've seen soldered de-strained connections come loose and start a little fire, I know the mirror probably has a 10a fuse behind it but I can't imagine just leaving that exposed like that. There is a reason the connection is completely contained within the connector.
Not sure what mirror taps youre looking at, but the one I used is completely sealed with no exposed copper. Amazon.com: Radar Mount RJ11 Mirror Wire Radar Detector Hardwire Power Cord for Uniden DFR Series (3005201U): Radar Mount: Gateway
 

Transporter

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Not sure what mirror taps youre looking at, but the one I used is completely sealed with no exposed copper. Amazon.com: Radar Mount RJ11 Mirror Wire Radar Detector Hardwire Power Cord for Uniden DFR Series (3005201U): Radar Mount: Gateway

What he is talking about are the half inch long exposed terminals at the end of the Mirror Tap IE the metal tips at the end of the Black and the Red colored ends. They are completely exposed and the Hot (red side) can easily touch grounded metal and the some versions of the MT idea don't even have a fuse.

Which is again why I highly recommend doing it correctly with a fused hardwire or using a proper Tap like the Posi-Tap that has NO exposed metal or probes! My best friend Kevin received two tickets because of Mirror Tap and the connection vibrating free dropping the power to his RD when he thought he was protected. He runs a proper hardwire now.
 

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