OK to revisit this statement- it is back in the mid 90s here again and I went out to install my mirror mount for the Radenso and good grief that thing was warm. Wife doesn't bother taking it off the windshield so it gets a pretty unhealthy tan. Sun shows no mercy.Also, not a bashing type statement, I obviously own multiple brands, but my Radenso doesn't seem to get as warm to the touch. The other day in the 90s I was parked in the sun in the family car; I could barely touch the steering wheel. Under the hood and body panel heat was brutal. Pro M was warmish at best. (But I still took it down for good measure.)
I got my lousy R1 from BRD. Luck of the draw, it seems. (QC at manufacturing level, not necessarily the distributor).
On the upshot, Uniden mail in warranty is a pretty easy process. Just unfortunate to have to pay initial shipping and go through the whole ordeal.
So the units can operate while under 200 degrees? I live in Israel and it gets really hot in the summer here. A temperature sensor would be really nice to see, to be honest. Just like the iPhone displays "This device needs to cool down before you can use it" - Meaning that in that "cooling down" period we should not expect any ticket-saving performance, and to take it easy until the unit cools down. Could this be done with a firmware upgrade using any existing temperature sensors, or there just isn't any in the current models?The unit can handle temperatures somewhere around 200 degrees for storage without problem. It's likely that if you are having troubles after it being left in a hot car, you had a problem beforehand.
you can certainly send it in if you are concerned.
@UnidenSupport,just for the record, the tempuratures for the unit are as afollows:
32° to +158° F (Radar/Laser) -10° to +70° C (Radar/Laser)
-22° to +203° F (Radar/Laser) -30° to +95° C (Radar/Laser)
These are the temperatures that testing has shown to be safe (actually it's less than what testing has shown) and temperature ranges inside of there should not cause issues with a normally functioning unit.
Yeah, I caught that before and requested to get it changed in the manual, and then forgot about it when I transferred it here.@UnidenSupport,
Not really important for this discussion, but I thought you may want to know there's a temperature conversion problem for the lowest operating temperature. I'm not sure which value is correct, but 32F and -10C are obviously not the same. I assume -10C is correct, which should be 14F.
By the way, I used to have a black 300ZX. If I parked that thing in the sun in the summer (I'm in Alabama) the cabin temperature would reach a measured 140F. Of course, a windshield mounted detector with the sun shinning on it would have heated above cabin temperature.
Funny that you mentioned this. Just this past week I also had strange suspicions with my R7 that it was eerily quiet in my confirmed /well known k band false alert areas. And my cars parked in a garage always. During that mid afternoon 78 degrees drive it only picked up one weaker then normal K band signal along a route that has exactly 7 known false k band alerts. Went to my destination and parked outside for 20 mins and then started my way back home and it was working normally again. Coincidence, maybe? Then yesterday during the mid afternoon commute it worked fine going to my destination but was silent coming back.Heading out for some 4th of July festivities today, and noticed the R7 was suspiciously silent. Not a single BSM alert, door opener false, and no response to a series of Ka speed signs I usually get great range against.
Over the past couple weeks here in Tennessee it's been in the mid 90's and with a black interior the heat probably reaching 130+ degrees with zero issues.@UnidenSupport,
By the way, I used to have a black 300ZX. If I parked that thing in the sun in the summer (I'm in Alabama) the cabin temperature would reach a measured 140F. Of course, a windshield mounted detector with the sun shining on it would have heated above cabin temperature.
Fully agree. I always remove my detector from the windshield and usually stash it under the seat. It stays much cooler there. (I guess I should try to measure the difference.)You can’t leave a pet in a car so purposely leaving a detector in a hot, confined and unattended vehicle is cruelty.
You are correct. The V1 case is magnesium, which is more conductive than a plastic case. However, if the color of the plastic case and metal case are the same, the inside temperature should eventually reach approximately the same steady-state value. Of course, the colors of the R7 and V1 may be a bit different, but I have no desire to intentionally bake an R7.The V1 dust cover is metal (?) so that would better transfer heat than plastic.