2019 Audi RS3

edconline

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It’s done! Just installed my system over the weekend in the new daily. Thinkware F770 dual with Cellink battery, Radenso RC-M, ALP Triple (RX/TX/RX) front and rear.

This car was relatively easy to work on, there is a nice unused grommet in the front footwell that’s begging for CM wiring. The grill being gloss black REALLY hides the sensors well which is nice. And the openings on the RS3 grille are JUST big enough for a standard ALP head with bracket attached.

For the front RC-M head, it did have to go behind the grill. However, it is “looking” right through the opening, and up against it. It seems to be performing exactly as well as it did out in the open on the last car, but I’ll do some proper testing to confirm performance isn’t impacted once I get a chance.

In the rear, the license plate area offers a pretty damn level and big area for the ALP heads. As with most sedans, the plate is on the trunk lid so the cables have further to run down the rotating arms but it still wasn’t bad. The rear RC-M head just sits inside the rear window on the ledge there.

The RC-M controller fit nicely in the front cubby area next to the USB port, and the ALP controller went on the steering column where it is quick and easy to reach for a JTK. External LED is mounted right up by the virtual cockpit cluster. The speakers are in the drivers footwell, as are both CPU’s. (Lots of space up in there!)

Just have to get a DET to test with and confirm placement for the heads, but it’s nice and stealthy and looks like it should perform quite well!

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edconline

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Thanks everyone!
It’s a super fun car, and it’s nice that I can finally enjoy it without worry now that the CM are all in haha

So far I’ve noticed zero issues with falsing from the ACC/BSM on the car either which is nice.
 

ron topa

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Very nice-Now get it tested with 3 different DE guns and others if you can and get the results so you can feel truly confident! I did thanks to members here willing to go out of their way for me. Its fun and meeting other fellow CM fiends rocks! New friendships develop and understanding how to drive defensively and safely will help in staying free from Leo!
 

Stretch

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Very nice-Now get it tested with 3 different DE guns and others if you can and get the results so you can feel truly confident! I did thanks to members here willing to go out of their way for me. Its fun and meeting other fellow CM fiends rocks! New friendships develop and understanding how to drive defensively and safely will help in staying free from Leo!
2X what he said. I’m currently looking to test with DE up here in buford Ga I have to find someone willing and drive to them
 

edconline

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I can get “tested” by like ten DE guns on the way to the mall here

But doing formal testing where I don’t have to wait for a surprise in the mail may take a bit longer.
 

L2lift

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as a fellow RS driver, how do you attach the sensors in the grill..do you have to do any drilling or permanent work that would lower resale/trade in value of the car?

That's my largest hesitation with getting a LJ
 

Deacon

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That's my largest hesitation with getting a LJ
Even if you wanted to replace the grille when it came time to sell it, in the intervening years the savings from the shorten would probably dwarf the cost of a grille. But it doesn’t have to be replaced.
 

edconline

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as a fellow RS driver, how do you attach the sensors in the grill..do you have to do any drilling or permanent work that would lower resale/trade in value of the car?

That's my largest hesitation with getting a LJ
Nothing anyone would ever notice. In the rear, I drilled and grometted for the cables up under the lip of the license place area. After removal a simple plug grommet on either side would look completely OEM and seal it again.

In front, nothing at all required for the two side sensors. They JUST fit even with bracket. The TX one I did drill a 5/8” hole in that plastic area for the cable to run straight back. I also made a tiny dremel cut for the head to sit nice and flush at the back. Neither would be noticable even when the head is removed.

However as was mentioned below, you could replace the grill before selling. I looked into it and it’s actually surprisingly cheap, a few hundred for a new one.
 

Tb12

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Sad you got rid of the R, but awesome replacement! That grill is made for CMs.
 

edconline

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Clean and crispy.

Might want to edit the plate out.
I was going to, but that’s the plate from my Golf R. My new plate is in the mail for this one so it’s changing soon haha
 

DeerHunter

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Nice install, indeed. I looooove the RS3. Managed to drive a friend's last winter and it is indeed a beast (and I love the 5-cylinder warble). Enjoy!
 

Starbuck

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@edconline I have the exact Rs3 as you, even color, that's the good news... bad news is that I just got a ticket, I have run a Uniden R3 for a couple of years and it's done fabulous with radar. It alert me of the laser, I got on the brakes but still got a ticket. The ticket listed 5 readings, 77, 77 65 61, 61 and my blackvue cam confirmed everything, so got stuck with $265. I thought they should give me some credit for my reaction time...

So... I want to set my Rs3 up just like yours in terms of the ALP. Would you be willing to provide some addtional advice and photos where applicable, here are my questions:

1) What was your routing for the wiring to the rear of the vehicle? Any tips on specific panel removals, etc.?
2) How did you run the wiring into the rear lid, can you get into those metal curve arms? any tips?
3) Did you connect to the fuse box under the steering, which fuse (did you piggyback?)
4) How are your front sensors brackets connect and to what? Did you have to remove the grill?

I'd really appreciate any help you can provide. Thanks.
 

edconline

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@edconline I have the exact Rs3 as you, even color, that's the good news... bad news is that I just got a ticket, I have run a Uniden R3 for a couple of years and it's done fabulous with radar. It alert me of the laser, I got on the brakes but still got a ticket. The ticket listed 5 readings, 77, 77 65 61, 61 and my blackvue cam confirmed everything, so got stuck with $265. I thought they should give me some credit for my reaction time...

So... I want to set my Rs3 up just like yours in terms of the ALP. Would you be willing to provide some addtional advice and photos where applicable, here are my questions:

1) What was your routing for the wiring to the rear of the vehicle? Any tips on specific panel removals, etc.?
2) How did you run the wiring into the rear lid, can you get into those metal curve arms? any tips?
3) Did you connect to the fuse box under the steering, which fuse (did you piggyback?)
4) How are your front sensors brackets connect and to what? Did you have to remove the grill?

I'd really appreciate any help you can provide. Thanks.
Hey! Sorry to hear about the ticket, that’s never fun. ALP is a great investment.

Here is how I got the ALP wired in from the back. I drilled a hole on the left and right side under the rear lid where the plate is. Straight up and in. I used a grommet kit to seal the holes, with a bit of silicone too.

The TX sensor wire runs along the trunk lid, underneath with some foam tape in two spots, and goes into the grommet with the RH RX. That’s the best approach, as you’ll see from the photos, you don’t want to drill/grommet where I have the TX mounted, as the camera is right there. (Yes- I see the TX head in the top corner of the backup camera image, but it’s not a big deal, still perfectly usable. When you see the photos you’ll think the TX wire is quite unsightly - so did I when I did the install. However, due to the angle of the trunk lid, and height of the car, you cannot see it from behind the car unless you’re lying on the ground. Even a driver in a Mazda miata directly behind you at a light would not be able to see that wire, I checked lol.

Then, I made all the connections to the extension cables inside the trunk lid. There is room in there, but you need to be calculated with how you bundle the excess wires, as it’s not a ton, and you want the trim to go back on, with no rattles anywhere.

As you suspected, I used the factory angled hinge arm (LH) and routed the cables in there. It has sufficient room for the two wires, and the plastic cover goes back on. At the exit to the hinge, you want to leave a drop loop that can move freely as the trunk opens and closes. Then, the wires route behind the panels on the left hand side of the car, up to the drivers footwell. All the outermost kick panels basically.
Photos:

IMG_1026.jpg

IMG_1027.jpg

IMG_1028.jpg

IMG_1029.jpg

Adjustments.jpg

Adjustments.jpg

Adjustments.jpg


The fuse I tapped was F45, with an add-a-fuse kit. It is unused stock, and provides switched ACC power. I would never piggyback a stock wire, the gauge is too small, and I want nothing I use to impact the factory electrical in any way. Normally I wire in an independent fused panel for switched/Unswitched power with a relay, but decided that was not required in this car.
I attached a photo of where the grommet for passing wires to the front is in the drivers footwell for clarity.

IMG_1034.jpg

Adjustments.jpg

IMG_1035.jpg


The front RX sensors utilize the mounting brackets that I bent in a unique way to allow them to be double sided taped on the crash bar behind the grille. Then, pressure keeps them very secure inside the grille - the RS grill openings were basically designed for ALP RX sensors with the mount haha. No need to remove the grille, can all be done thru it. Just make sure you check the levels for bending the brackets, etc. Hopefully the photos I’ve attached provide enough of an idea of what I did here. For the front TX sensor, I had to drill a small hole to get the cable into the engine bay, but that’s it, I used the TX mount (cut down for length) to 3M the sensor as pictured.

IMG_1036.jpg

IMG_1037.jpg

IMG_1038.jpg

Adjustments.jpg


Ignore the disgusting car - it was -30 and snowstorm here less than a week ago, now it’s +7. And they use sand instead of salt on the roads here. I swear, I meticulously maintain it even in the winter! It’s just not clean RIGHT now lol. Most of the winter, it looks like this.

Adjustments.jpg


Take your time removing the panels, with proper tools. There is no “trick” to any of them per-say, but Audi uses very strong clips. You need to pull/pry in the right spots. Triple check the heads are level. You need to use 3M tape to “shim” them level in the back, as that lip is anything but level as it sits. 3M permanent outdoor mounting tape is all I use. It lasts in -40 to +40, through tons of car washes, etc. No need for screws.

Let me know if you run into any issues or have any other questions, need photos, etc and I’ll try to help.
Good luck!
 

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mattguy10

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@edconline I have the exact Rs3 as you, even color, that's the good news... bad news is that I just got a ticket, I have run a Uniden R3 for a couple of years and it's done fabulous with radar. It alert me of the laser, I got on the brakes but still got a ticket. The ticket listed 5 readings, 77, 77 65 61, 61 and my blackvue cam confirmed everything, so got stuck with $265. I thought they should give me some credit for my reaction time...

So... I want to set my Rs3 up just like yours in terms of the ALP. Would you be willing to provide some addtional advice and photos where applicable, here are my questions:

1) What was your routing for the wiring to the rear of the vehicle? Any tips on specific panel removals, etc.?
2) How did you run the wiring into the rear lid, can you get into those metal curve arms? any tips?
3) Did you connect to the fuse box under the steering, which fuse (did you piggyback?)
4) How are your front sensors brackets connect and to what? Did you have to remove the grill?

I'd really appreciate any help you can provide. Thanks.
Hey! Sorry to hear about the ticket, that’s never fun. ALP is a great investment.

Here is how I got the ALP wired in from the back. I drilled a hole on the left and right side under the rear lid where the plate is. Straight up and in. I used a grommet kit to seal the holes, with a bit of silicone too.

The TX sensor wire runs along the trunk lid, underneath with some foam tape in two spots, and goes into the grommet with the RH RX. That’s the best approach, as you’ll see from the photos, you don’t want to drill/grommet where I have the TX mounted, as the camera is right there. (Yes- I see the TX head in the top corner of the backup camera image, but it’s not a big deal, still perfectly usable. When you see the photos you’ll think the TX wire is quite unsightly - so did I when I did the install. However, due to the angle of the trunk lid, and height of the car, you cannot see it from behind the car unless you’re lying on the ground. Even a driver in a Mazda miata directly behind you at a light would not be able to see that wire, I checked lol.

Then, I made all the connections to the extension cables inside the trunk lid. There is room in there, but you need to be calculated with how you bundle the excess wires, as it’s not a ton, and you want the trim to go back on, with no rattles anywhere.

As you suspected, I used the factory angled hinge arm (LH) and routed the cables in there. It has sufficient room for the two wires, and the plastic cover goes back on. At the exit to the hinge, you want to leave a drop loop that can move freely as the trunk opens and closes. Then, the wires route behind the panels on the left hand side of the car, up to the drivers footwell. All the outermost kick panels basically.
Photos:

View attachment 140197
View attachment 140198
View attachment 140199
View attachment 140200
View attachment 140201
View attachment 140202
View attachment 140203

The fuse I tapped was F45, with an add-a-fuse kit. It is unused stock, and provides switched ACC power. I would never piggyback a stock wire, the gauge is too small, and I want nothing I use to impact the factory electrical in any way. Normally I wire in an independent fused panel for switched/Unswitched power with a relay, but decided that was not required in this car.
I attached a photo of where the grommet for passing wires to the front is in the drivers footwell for clarity.

View attachment 140205
View attachment 140204
View attachment 140206

The front RX sensors utilize the mounting brackets that I bent in a unique way to allow them to be double sided taped on the crash bar behind the grille. Then, pressure keeps them very secure inside the grille - the RS grill openings were basically designed for ALP RX sensors with the mount haha. No need to remove the grille, can all be done thru it. Just make sure you check the levels for bending the brackets, etc. Hopefully the photos I’ve attached provide enough of an idea of what I did here. For the front TX sensor, I had to drill a small hole to get the cable into the engine bay, but that’s it, I used the TX mount (cut down for length) to 3M the sensor as pictured.

View attachment 140207
View attachment 140208
View attachment 140209
View attachment 140210

Ignore the disgusting car - it was -30 and snowstorm here less than a week ago, now it’s +7. And they use sand instead of salt on the roads here. I swear, I meticulously maintain it even in the winter! It’s just not clean RIGHT now lol. Most of the winter, it looks like this.

View attachment 140211

Take your time removing the panels, with proper tools. There is no “trick” to any of them per-say, but Audi uses very strong clips. You need to pull/pry in the right spots. Triple check the heads are level. You need to use 3M tape to “shim” them level in the back, as that lip is anything but level as it sits. 3M permanent outdoor mounting tape is all I use. It lasts in -40 to +40, through tons of car washes, etc. No need for screws.

Let me know if you run into any issues or have any other questions, need photos, etc and I’ll try to help.
Good luck!
Ask and you shall receive! Wow!

Excellent write up @edconline!
 

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