Uniden BCD436HP GPS Mod (1 Viewer)

surprisinguy

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The usb in the side is so ghetto
It's not really... Looks like it was originally there - flush with the unit and much more convenient than opening the little flap on the side -
 

surprisinguy

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dchemist

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Yeah I figured if I can eliminate the GPS cable, I should also look at eliminating the USB cable.
Still its just a thought and not a sure thing.

Need to test and see how the inductive charging would affect the radio in terms of interference and whatnot. Plus would add weight, bulk, and cost.
:pray:Holy crap!!! This would be awesome and I would definitely pay up for such a device! Eliminating those unsightly cables would be fantastic!!!
 

robbyb413

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Yeah, sure would be something to go from two cords sticking out of the 436 to none. Would make the dash area so much cleaner. I'd support that effort!
 

Deacon

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I would absolutely throw my dollars behind that effort. It's migraine-inducing to try to figure out why Uniden didn't do all this from the beginning.

The only thing missing is a low-latency Bluetooth transmitter paired to my phone with an app that will interrupt spoken audio or duck music to play the scanner output through the phone's Bluetooth/CarPlay/AA stream through the car stereo, just like V1Driver does. But that's a little much for some. I already have a BT transmitter and earbuds when I need to keep it quiet for others in the cabin or even sometimes when I actually want to pay close attention (since the built in speaker doesn't always cut it, and I don't want to have to have an external speaker that is loud enough for the lower-volume transmission but painfully loud for the loud ones).
 

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I would absolutely throw my dollars behind that effort. It's migraine-inducing to try to figure out why Uniden didn't do all this from the beginning.

The only thing missing is a low-latency Bluetooth transmitter paired to my phone with an app that will interrupt spoken audio or duck music to play the scanner output through the phone's Bluetooth/CarPlay/AA stream through the car stereo, just like V1Driver does. But that's a little much for some. I already have a BT transmitter and earbuds when I need to keep it quiet for others in the cabin or even sometimes when I actually want to pay close attention (since the built in speaker doesn't always cut it, and I don't want to have to have an external speaker that is loud enough for the lower-volume transmission but painfully loud for the loud ones).
So I have a preliminary design for the battery module. I have ordered parts and will put together a prototype when they show up.
The idea is it'll be a battery pack that slots into the existing battery compartment and has 3 lithium cells, a charge controller, and optional USB port and optional wireless charging coil.
It will have contacta that connect it to the battery terminals on the scanner so virtually no modifications needed.
The end cap will be a pcb with the charge controller and wireless charging bits.

You could use it in 3 different ways:
  1. (no mods) pop it in and then take it out or cut a hole in the battery cap to charge over usb.
  2. (no mods) leave it in and just charge wirelessly
  3. (mod required) put the battery in and solder 2 connections to charge it over the oem USB port and/or wirelessly.


Also looked into Bluetooth but it would have added a lot of interference, battery draw, and extra parts so it wasn't worth it.
 

Deacon

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(mod required) put the battery in and solder 2 connections to charge it over the oem USB port and/or wirelessly.
I think that’s how I’d want to do it, since I believe charging while operating would require a mod anyway. If a mod to the factory board is in order, might as well do both.

Another option would be to leave the factory USB port alone and just use two wireless charging mounts, one on the desk and one in the vehicle. Honestly I may well end up doing that! No wires, just pull it out of one mount and put it in the other when I leave or come home (I work from home).

Also looked into Bluetooth but it would have added a lot of interference, battery draw, and extra parts so it wasn't worth it.
Yeah, I can see that. My little piggyback Bluetooth transmitter works well already and has its own battery. I ran it with Dual Lock attached to the back of my 396XT, but for the 436HP I’ll probably affix it to the back of mount, and with a hardwired USB power supply providing continuous power from the vehicle via its micro USB port. If I want to use it, I’ll just turn it on and plug it into the headphone jack.

 
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dchemist

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I think that’s how I’d want to do it, since I believe charging while operating would require a mod anyway. If a mod to the factory board is in order, might as well do both.

Another option would be to leave the factory USB port alone and just use two wireless charging mounts, one on the desk and one in the vehicle. Honestly I may well end up doing that! No wires, just pull it out of one mount and put it in the other when I leave or come home (I work from home).


Yeah, I can see that. My little piggyback Bluetooth transmitter works well already and has its own battery. I ran it with Dual Lock attached to the back of my 396XT, but for the 436HP I’ll probably affix it to the back of mount, and with a hardwired USB power supply providing continuous power from the vehicle via its micro USB port. If I want to use it, I’ll just turn it on and plug it into the headphone jack.

I've been thinking of getting a BT module and running through my phone that would then go out to my car stereo. Like @SquirrelMaster said, interference could be a problem according to RR. Many have had pretty good luck with a remote BT module and short aux cable (to distance it from the antenna). Is this what you were doing on the 396XT? If so, did you experience any issues?
 

Deacon

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Is this what you were doing on the 396XT? If so, did you experience any issues?
No, I stuck it right on the top of the back of the 396XT. Never had any issues, or at least noticed any. In the truck I plan to set an NMO Mount antenna in the middle of the roof, and that would have even fewer possibilities of issues.

At my desk it’s usually sitting just a few feet from a router and right near a wireless mouse, no issues. I have a feeling people are looking for issues and attributing any little perceived thing to interference? In the truck there’s the BTLE, a phone or two, etc. I mean, you can’t really get away from it. If I were going to go straight to the stereo I’d probably just run an AUX cord, but even that’s not immune from theoretically being a source of interference.

PS I plan to run this on the truck roof:


One day I may set up a couple of antennas on an existing mast at the house and a diplexer, really see what I can pull in. Maybe.
 

dchemist

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No, I stuck it right on the top of the back of the 396XT. Never had any issues, or at least noticed any. In the truck I plan to set an NMO Mount antenna in the middle of the roof, and that would have even fewer possibilities of issues.

At my desk it’s usually sitting just a few feet from a router and right near a wireless mouse, no issues. I have a feeling people are looking for issues and attributing any little perceived thing to interference? In the truck there’s the BTLE, a phone or two, etc. I mean, you can’t really get away from it. If I were going to go straight to the stereo I’d probably just run an AUX cord, but even that’s not immune from theoretically being a source of interference.

PS I plan to run this on the truck roof:


One day I may set up a couple of antennas on an existing mast at the house and a diplexer, really see what I can pull in. Maybe.
Alright so that's great news. I'm running the same antenna on a 5" mag mount. Since BT doesn't seem to be on the Squirrel mods list, I'll bite the bullet and give it a try.
 

dchemist

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I don't mean to be a tease
Oh BS! None the less, some of us like a good tease! What cells are you using? I'm trying to remember what blue was. Panasonic?
 

Deacon

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I don't mean to be a tease
A good tease can be fun :)

That looks almost exactly like I imagined it. If the OB-Grip design can be modified to house the supply coil, perhaps with a Micro-USB input port, then that would be awesome. Not sure how feasible that is. The good thing is that these scanners have a very low draw compared to what most chargers are required to put out, so it doesn’t take high wattage to provide more power to the batteries than the batteries are providing to the scanner, even if they’re also powering GPS and whatever else. And even the lesser coils in consumer Qi devices still are capable of putting out 10W, some 15W, assuming you’re providing enough amperage compared to basic 500-1000mA @ 5V USB chargers.

I love the idea of getting two of these set up permanently mounted, one in the truck and one on my desk. Pull it out and walk around with it or whatever, and put it back, and the scanner itself doesn’t know the difference. Just running off battery power as far as it’s concerned. That’s especially important because some USB power supplies are noisier than others, and skipping the scanner’s USB circuitry should help alleviate that issue.

I love pretty much everything about this.
 

robbyb413

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@SquirrelMaster that looks awesome!

Something I just thought of that I wanted to check, I took the 436hp, put a small metal disk on the FCC label, and then stuck it on a mag mount. It caused an issue - the 436 started getting a whole bunch of noise on frequencies I previously didn't even know it was watching (see: "New Hampshire Fire Radio Interoperability Plan " section of New Hampshire - Department of Safety Scanner Frequencies and Radio Frequency Reference). Just static, no actual activity. When I removed the mag mount, I never saw those channels again.

It was obviously the magnet - with the 436 on the mount, it was scan and then hang on one of those channels. I'd avoid it, it would just go to the next one and hang, Repeat, repeat, repeat. If I removed the magnet and hung the 436 in the same spot using the clip, it would not stop on any of those channels. Put the magnet back, and those channels came back. Played with it for a while just in case I happened to be catching a time when those channels were truly emitting something that came to me as static, but always came back to magnet present being the difference.

I know that usually the wireless chargers use magnets to keep the device positioned on the pad, so wondering if there would be any issues having those magnets so near to where my mag mount caused issues.

If not, hopefully @Deacon 's thoughts about getting the OB-Grip and wireless charging mod converged can come to life. :thumbup:
 
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Deacon

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I know that usually the wireless chargers use magnets to keep the device positioned on the pad
Only if they’re magnet mounts in the first place, which this is not. And this design puts a coil on the outside of the battery pack, where originally people were putting layers of foil to help reduce noise from an incomplete/faulty original PCB design (mostly fixed in units produced in the second half of 2016 and pretty much unheard of from 2017 on).

So while the design you’re experimenting with is unrelated to what’s being perfected here, try putting that same magnet on the back of the battery compartment instead and see what you get. Might be better, not really sure.
 

robbyb413

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Interesting. All of the wireless charging pads, cradles, and docks I have do have magnets in them, even the free give aways from conferences. Great to hear that isn't always the case so I can experiment with wireless charging on the 436, or use a solution someone else creates.

Sent from my Pixel using Tapatalk
 
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Deacon

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The two wireless charging pads (coaster/puck style) I have, one Samsung and one from Bezalel, have no magnets. I can’t imagine why they would. Maybe paired with adhesive metal plates for positioning the phone like on a magnetic mount? Seems strange.
 

robbyb413

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They seem to be to position the device and make sure it stays charging. I found a pad myself today that appears to have no magnets, since when I throw various Samsungs at it they don't latch on. It's some Chinese no-name low profile Qi-compatible pad. Have not pulled it apart yet to confirm but seems like the evidence shows NO magnets. I mean regardless, bigger picture if none of the standards need the magnets than I can just cut them away and it's not a concern. I just need the coil and board, after all, right?
 

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