BOB with various detectors (1 Viewer)

radarrandy

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Does anyone have instructions or video on how to hook it up? I need one for my Chevy Cruze. It cannot be disabled. I have a Bel rx 65 that recycles at each stop. Thank you. I was thinking about buying a BOB.
 

spinner55

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Does anyone have instructions or video on how to hook it up? I need one for my Chevy Cruze. It cannot be disabled. I have a Bel rx 65 that recycles at each stop. Thank you. I was thinking about buying a BOB.

You also could use some 'type' of battery between the power source (vehicle) and the detector. To keep my cell phone charging when the car is off. (while I am still on the call) I use a 20,000 mAh battery pack between the phone and cig lighter. When the vehicle is on it is charging etc. They are fairly cheap $20 on a Black Friday sale at wally world. You wouldn't / shouldn't need that large of one but it was cheap. I've had it in the vehicle for over a year. Been 100F+ and - 40F and still working just fine. Uses the USB plugs but should be able to find cables to connect the detector I would think. (or I would build one)
Take care
Spin
 

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Vortex

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Welp, the BOB has arrived. I had no idea it was green.

118348


It comes with a short RJ11 cable to plug into the V1 power cable. Installation was a piece of cake.

118349


Now to take it for a spin and see if it does the trick! :)
 

Up All Night

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Do you need a diode between the capacitor or added battery to isolate the cars battery / electrical system?
Posted from my iPhone using the RDF Mobile App!
 

InsipidMonkey

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Do you need a diode between the capacitor or added battery to isolate the cars battery / electrical system?
If you're referring to the BOB, it's neither a capacitor nor battery. It's a DC-DC boost converter that provides a constant 12v+ output to prevent the detector from restarting even if the vehicle voltage drops below the 11v cutoff (for the V1).
 

tempnexus

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If you're referring to the BOB, it's neither a capacitor nor battery. It's a DC-DC boost converter that provides a constant 12v+ output to prevent the detector from restarting even if the vehicle voltage drops below the 11v cutoff (for the V1).
Interesting:

 

Won Hunglo

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Having a 2019 GMC Sierra with start/stop, the BOB is essential and works flawless. Upon taking delivery, the V1 reset constantly every time you rolled to a stop.
 

HotIce

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I love the BOB. My V1 doesn’t constantly keep rebooting anymore.
 

Vortex

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I grabbed the Max360c today and it looks like I’m still having issues even with the BOB. The detector shut off on me twice.

I switched to the voltage meter and with the M1 dashcam, it is around 10.1-10.5v at idle and drops to 9.0v with the start/stop. It goes higher of course while driving. Without the M1 in line, it sits around 11.2v at idle.

That’s lower than I’d expect, but still. I thought the BOB would help regulate that more than it does. hmm
 

CJR238

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Did you try it with a V1 to see if it may just be the Max360c?
 

Deacon

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Yeah it would be interesting to see the results from other detectors like R series and the V1, etc. The power is being sourced from the rear cargo area, right? Do you have a multimeter that the installer or you have hooked up and watched during a drive? I’m assuming there’s a sufficiently heavy gauge power wire run to the front (rather than a phone cord from the rear), in which case the voltage drop shouldn’t be much. Otherwise it may simply be that there’s too much voltage voltage drop from a long run with too small a wire gauge.

That power source is supposed to come off the battery, and if the battery is sitting at ~12.6V with the car off, you shouldn’t see anything near as you are.
 

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Yeah it would be interesting to see the results from other detectors like R series and the V1, etc. The power is being sourced from the rear cargo area, right? Do you have a multimeter that the installer or you have hooked up and watched during a drive? I’m assuming there’s a sufficiently heavy gauge power wire run to the front (rather than a phone cord from the rear), in which case the voltage drop shouldn’t be much. Otherwise it may simply be that there’s too much voltage voltage drop from a long run with too small a wire gauge.

That power source is supposed to come off the battery, and if the battery is sitting at ~12.6V with the car off, you shouldn’t see anything near as you are.
Yeah it's running from the rear. I was wondering the same thing about that wire... I just hooked up the V1 and at idle it's sitting right around 11.1v or so which is right in line with what the Max360c was saying sans M1.

In other news, I was just poking around the options for JBV1 and WOW... There's SO much there. The design and main options screen isn't super intuitive with names like PAWS and CSA, but it's just a little more lingo to learn. I'm impressed with just how much capability is in here. Time to go look through the reference that @Tregar put together and learn more about what all is in here.


(I still gotta work on other stuff first before diving too deeply into JBV1, but this looks great.)
 

dchemist

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In other news, I was just poking around the options for JBV1 and WOW... There's SO much there. The design and main options screen isn't super intuitive with names like PAWS and CSA, but it's just a little more lingo to learn. I'm impressed with just how much capability is in here. Time to go look through the reference that @Tregar put together and learn more about what all is in here.
While the BOB not fixing your power issues is disappointing, it looks like there is a silver lining. Be forewarned, JBV1 can become very, very addictive. So much so, that it might even have you dusting off the old V1.
 

LouG

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I grabbed the Max360c today and it looks like I’m still having issues even with the BOB. The detector shut off on me twice.

I switched to the voltage meter and with the M1 dashcam, it is around 10.1-10.5v at idle and drops to 9.0v with the start/stop. It goes higher of course while driving. Without the M1 in line, it sits around 11.2v at idle.

That’s lower than I’d expect, but still. I thought the BOB would help regulate that more than it does. hmm
That seems very low voltage at idle. I've never had a car drop below 12v
 

knight_man

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That seems very low voltage at idle. I've never had a car drop below 12v
That is very low. Have you checked that your alternator is outputting solid voltage? Also, make sure your belt isn’t loose or worn.

It is also possible that if you are running this stuff in a Miata or something very basic (like my old CRX), the alternator is not designed to carry the additional load of all your toys+AC+radio+etc at an idle. Might need a real capacitor (like a .5/1 farad) in line of your power distribution to carry that load, or a bigger alternator for the car. If you are piggy-backing circuits to feed toys you might need an independent power source.
 

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