BOB with various detectors

Vortex

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Do any of you guys run the V1 BOB?


I've been noticing some issues with my vehicle's start/stop system with different detectors. The display on the Unidens will dim momentarily when the engine kicks back on. My Max360c throws low voltage warnings when it switches over to battery and if the engine doesn't power back on within a few seconds, the detector shuts off altogether and forces me to physically power cycle it with the cable. Oddly enough, I see this only with the hardwire cable that runs all the way from the back of my vehicle and not from my MirrorTap. I guess there's a significant enough voltage drop with the longer cable.

Anyways, I'm thinking about adding in a BOB to see if it solves these issues for me. Have any of you experimented with the BOB and had good luck with your V1 and/or with other detectors?
 

Deacon

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I guess there's a significant enough voltage drop with the longer cable.
You could be right. Do you have a single phone-cable style run from the back to the front? What does the voltage display read when running normally? I don’t know what size wire you have in the cord running to the front, but not all phone cord is created equal. When people run a detector in the rear or else need more than the 8 feet of the standard V1 hardwire cord, I always suggest running a ~14-ga. power wire to the near where the detector will be (or at least near enough to reach with a shorter phone cord) for that reason.

If I recall correctly, you have power fed directly from the battery to your rig runner block in the back, right? If so I imagine there really shouldn’t be an issue at the rig runner itself, even with the engine shut off during a normal stop-start function, though I guess you could test and confirm that a few different ways.

PS Based on my understanding of how the BOB works, I can’t imagine why it wouldn’t work for all other detectors that can otherwise work off a V1 hardwire.
 

wirelessandy

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Had some strange issues with my previous cars and the V1 (honking the horn would cause laser alert). BOB fixed it.

Now I just install BOB regardless of vehicle*. Also works with the R7.

(*edit: ... if the plug fits: V1, R1/3/7)
 
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samq45

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You could get a Ross-Tech Vag Com (VCDS) - or borrow one - and set it to disable the start stop on the Q5. You can also set to reverse the switch (so that is off when you start the car), or remember the last action - if you shut it off, it will still be off when you restart it.

 

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You could get a Ross-Tech Vag Com (VCDS) - or borrow one - and set it to disable the start stop on the Q5. You can also set to reverse the switch (so that is off when you start the car), or remember the last action - if you shut it off, it will still be off when you restart it.
I actually like the stop/start feature, believe it or not. At first it was annoying, but once I got used to it, it was nice having the engine shut off at red lights. Better for the environment and saving gas and all. :)

I've got an OBIIeleven for the car which allows me to permanently disable the feature already, but I choose to leave it on for now. It would be another solution though, you're right.
 

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Do any of you guys run the V1 BOB?


I've been noticing some issues with my vehicle's start/stop system with different detectors. The display on the Unidens will dim momentarily when the engine kicks back on. My Max360c throws low voltage warnings when it switches over to battery and if the engine doesn't power back on within a few seconds, the detector shuts off altogether and forces me to physically power cycle it with the cable. Oddly enough, I see this only with the hardwire cable that runs all the way from the back of my vehicle and not from my MirrorTap. I guess there's a significant enough voltage drop with the longer cable.

Anyways, I'm thinking about adding in a BOB to see if it solves these issues for me. Have any of you experimented with the BOB and had good luck with your V1 and/or with other detectors?
I ran one on my Toyota Camry Hybrid for years with my V1 and it worked great.
 

benzr

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Had some strange issues with my previous cars and the V1 (honking the horn would cause laser alert). BOB fixed it.

Now I just install BOB regardless of vehicle*. Also works with the R7.

(*edit: ... if the plug fits: V1, R1/3/7)
Pro M, DFR7, Redline-O, R3, V1 ALL RUN OFF my Valentine Hard-Wired BOB in my DD Jeep.

Only issue I ever got was Low Power and it was a deadcell battery. 11.45 volts. Replaced battery no issues since. . It uses a cap (CAPACITOR) among other components. So yeah fire it up !!

And as deacon said check your wire gauge.
Personally i use home alarm wires or 4 wire flat from Mouser Electronics. !!

Let us know

Benzr


Posted from my iPhone using the RDF Mobile App!
 
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OBeerWANKenobi

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Do any of you guys run the V1 BOB?


I've been noticing some issues with my vehicle's start/stop system with different detectors. The display on the Unidens will dim momentarily when the engine kicks back on. My Max360c throws low voltage warnings when it switches over to battery and if the engine doesn't power back on within a few seconds, the detector shuts off altogether and forces me to physically power cycle it with the cable. Oddly enough, I see this only with the hardwire cable that runs all the way from the back of my vehicle and not from my MirrorTap. I guess there's a significant enough voltage drop with the longer cable.

Anyways, I'm thinking about adding in a BOB to see if it solves these issues for me. Have any of you experimented with the BOB and had good luck with your V1 and/or with other detectors?
I'm guessing that "BOB" is just a capacitor. If you have all the hardwires splitting off of one wire, you could just put in 1 in-line capacitor in to cover everything.
 

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I'm guessing that "BOB" is just a capacitor. If you have all the hardwires splitting off of one wire, you could just put in 1 in-line capacitor in to cover everything.
It’s actually not a cap. It’s a DC-DC voltage regulator.

It is a “Brown-Out-Booster”. It deals with voltage sag.
 

OBeerWANKenobi

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It’s actually not a cap. It’s a DC-DC voltage regulator.

It is a “Brown-Out-Booster”. It deals with voltage sag.
I'm not an electrical guru but capacitors are made to deal with sag as well, right? We used them all the time for stereo competition, sometimes up to 50 farad versions.....LOL. In either case, it would make sense to me to use 1 capacitor or 1 DC-DC regulator to fix the problem for all the equipment in total than to get several of the BOBs.
 

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Awesome, glad to hear it's been working out well! I went ahead and ordered one and am looking forward to see the impact that it makes. :)
 

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I was going to get one, then JBV1 came out with variable start delay. It's like having a personal Santa. Wish for it and it's there.
 

InsipidMonkey

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There was a post somewhat recently of someone who made their own BoB, I'll see if I can find it. Cheaper any pretty easy to make if you're handy with electronics.

Edit: Thread here Beat Auto Start/Stop with your own Brown-Out Buster

Edit 2: The DC-DC boost converter can be had for ~$1 on eBay, and the rest is just connectors. You could easily just splice one into a phone cord and protect it with some silicone or heat shrink tubing or something and be done. I think I have one laying around, I'll give it a shot.
 
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mswlogo

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I'm not an electrical guru but capacitors are made to deal with sag as well, right? We used them all the time for stereo competition, sometimes up to 50 farad versions.....LOL. In either case, it would make sense to me to use 1 capacitor or 1 DC-DC regulator to fix the problem for all the equipment in total than to get several of the BOBs.
My understanding for this type of application it would have to be a very large capacitor to act as your thinking. The regulator can handle indefinite sag. I originally thought for sure it was a capacitor too until I took one a part. I think I posted pictures a couple years back.

Capacitors tend to be used to correct higher frequency deviations. Hz vs MHz.
 

System

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I'm not an electrical guru but capacitors are made to deal with sag as well, right? We used them all the time for stereo competition, sometimes up to 50 farad versions.....LOL. In either case, it would make sense to me to use 1 capacitor or 1 DC-DC regulator to fix the problem for all the equipment in total than to get several of the BOBs.
Yeah caps just oppose a change in voltage. They hold V(p) and discharge in proportion to load. You could use a larger capacitor here to hold the voltage, but it would have to have pretty large plates. (Hense the larger physical size)
 

benzr

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I couldn't tell but arent those 2 caps one on either side , a voltage reg ic chip, and an isolating transformer.
??

Been too long since i played.


Posted from my iPhone using the RDF Mobile App!
 

BMWBig6

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I was going to get one, then JBV1 came out with variable start delay. It's like having a personal Santa. Wish for it and it's there.
I'm not familiar with this "variable start delay" feature and don't see it mentioned in the official release notes (or maybe it's called something else and I missed it). How does it work, and is it enabled automatically? Are you saying you don't need a BoB if you have JBV1?
 

LouG

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I'm not familiar with this "variable start delay" feature and don't see it mentioned in the official release notes (or maybe it's called something else and I missed it). How does it work, and is it enabled automatically? Are you saying you don't need a BoB if you have JBV1?
You can delay JBV1 starting by 5,10, 15 (I think) seconds. And I've just realised the V1 starts anyway, so this won't help the V1, but it does help connection issues with the app.
 

HotIce

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You could get a Ross-Tech Vag Com (VCDS) - or borrow one - and set it to disable the start stop on the Q5. You can also set to reverse the switch (so that is off when you start the car), or remember the last action - if you shut it off, it will still be off when you restart it.

He's better of just buying a cheap Android device and buying a OBDEleven.
 

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