Absolute Newbie being pushed in different directions!

Randyrj

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I’ll try to be short and to the point. I have a 2017 Harley Street Glide Special and want to add detector and jammers to the bike. I’m a finance manager at an auto dealership so have a few aftermarket connections.

One is K40 installer and recommending their system. The other is a installer who wants to use ZR5 in front and rear with mounted max360c.

Space is always an issue on a motorcycle and under my fairing I already have 2 amps so no room. I was a police officer for 12 years and unless LIDAR has changed it needs a reflective surface to register. My bike is denim black so in the front the only “target” would be headlights and from behind only license plate I am 40 miles each way to work in west suburbs of Chicago, all highway. I know it’s not as quick as most bikes here but I’ve spent a significant amount of money on engine.

Any help or suggestions are greatly appreciated.
 

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RadarSammich

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Fill out a form and post in general radar discussion. More bike riders there I believe that can help out.
 

venom690

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Curious seeing a Harley rider going through so much trouble to speed, no offense but usually you guys are right at the speed limit
 

Biohazardous

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I would avoid the K40 like the plague. I can't comment on Escorts effectivness on a motorcycle.

Since you already stated room is an issue you may want to find out exactly how much room you have before buying anything.

I mocked up cardboard cutouts and string to find my space before installing anything.
 

Randyrj

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It’s definitely not street bike quick but I’m probably 90-120mph. In Illinois that’s plenty of speed for silver bracelets.

Space is not much of an issue unless components have to be close. I have stretched saddlebags with 6x9 speakers and 10” woofers but can mount hardware in there.
 

Vehicle 1

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As mentioned, don't go for K40 or ZR5s, imo. I would go for ALPs and find a way to weatherproof the control box.
Also, LIDAR, specially the new guns, can get your speed off of a nose hair... so you need to be diligent about your install. I got a nasty ticket on my motorcycle with LIDAR once, and the cop told me that he targeted my helmet...
When I play with my guns, I can get readings from almost any surface... fyi.
I’ll try to be short and to the point. I have a 2017 Harley Street Glide Special and want to add detector and jammers to the bike. I’m a finance manager at an auto dealership so have a few aftermarket connections.

One is K40 installer and recommending their system. The other is a installer who wants to use ZR5 in front and rear with mounted max360c.

Space is always an issue on a motorcycle and under my fairing I already have 2 amps so no room. I was a police officer for 12 years and unless LIDAR has changed it needs a reflective surface to register. My bike is denim black so in the front the only “target” would be headlights and from behind only license plate I am 40 miles each way to work in west suburbs of Chicago, all highway. I know it’s not as quick as most bikes here but I’ve spent a significant amount of money on engine.

Any help or suggestions are greatly appreciated.
 

Randyrj

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I did the build your system do you need regular sensor or the sensor with TX. I would like front and rear but don’t know configuration?

Anyone have installer recommendations for Chicago area on motorcycle?
 

Randyrj

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So I have taken a couple pictures to hopefully help. I still don’t understand whether I need to have TX and regular or just regular jammer but know I don’t what the difference is. I want it to be integrated with a detector but can’t decide a good combination. The third picture shows saddlebag space with tape measured for reference. The white is just what I was thinking on front and rear replacing red reflector. I do know that I want something independent of having my phone mounted as the indicator. I can use it via Bluetooth but want something heads-up.

21FEFE90-F641-4269-B9D1-1383954BF7A4.jpeg
F23E5EB1-11E0-48C8-ACAC-127CB815C349.jpeg
46860FCE-12F5-417D-86F9-99B6A0368E84.jpeg
41AA5DCC-BF18-4927-95C7-39A9A44EC87A.jpeg
4D32B589-E8D2-488C-9D97-42986619534A.jpeg
 

IPA

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Could you please include a tape measure for reference on the front and rear shots
 

Randyrj

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6 1/2” between front forks and 6 3/4” is width of rear between two lights. Didn’t measure bags but around 7” wide wit straight depth 8” and 10” angled mount.
 

LuCroix

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My neck hurts from looking at those pics. :D I don't think a Tx is necessary on a bike.

The Rx sensors receive AND transmit. The Tx only transmits.
 

Randyrj

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Sorry it’s a shed I made for bike but counter right behind me and freakin’ snowing in April here in Chicago.

Based on information can some please help me with components. Want laser detector/jammer front and rear, radar detector with location indicator, can use iPhone X if needed but also use it for Spotify while riding, and as discrete as possible. Key importance of system is range of laser detector (and jammer!) because mostly on highway and as much as possible limiting false alarms from other cars technology. Lastly I am mid level electronics savvy and bought adapter for Harley to covert aux power port to 12v power source.

Budget $1500-2000 roughly

Thank you everyone for the help.
 

LuCroix

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I'll just throw this out there and I'm sure more will follow. Someone from your area probably has more specific info/recommendations.

R7 for radar detector since you want arrows, 360c is another good option

ALP quad setup for jammers since you want laser defense

Those are my personal suggestions.
 

TurboDriver

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I have an ALP on my bike and love it...

I would do an ALP RX / TX combo, the dual RX will likely give interference problems if too close, plus leave you vulnerable to some guns so don't do that.

As far as radar, the Netradar will connect to the ALP or you could go with a windshield model but then you have to deal with it being "out there". Arrows are nice but have their side effects especially on the limited space bike install, I would scrap the arrow idea unless a windshield unit.

Another issue is the noise that you have to overcome, ALP offers Bluetooth with your phone so you can connect to your stereo or has a very loud Hi-Fi speaker. GPS, needed with the TX head, is also helpful to set speeds to mute alerts, for example if you pull up to a light on a bike your system quiet.

Posted from my moto x4 using the RDF Mobile App!
 
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Randyrj

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So I think I have devised my setup and want the specialists and motorcycle riders to confirm.

The idea is the AL Priority system with 1 front and 1 rear sensor, Front radar dsp, hi-fi, and Bluetooth.
 

Turbo King

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ALP Netradar, front and rear, regular ALP sensors/transmitters front and rear, and ALPTX sensors front and rear.

You have a big bike, tons of room for an install, and are a bigger target then most bikes.
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And of course you will need the GPS, and "plug in" module and the bluetooth add ons.

That's if you want maximum, integrated protection.

Then hire Vortex for a consultation to set it all up.

With that setup, $2,700 all in, you will have maximum protection.

You can "get away" with no TX transmitters, but for doing it once and doing it right, that is your maximum best way of protecting yourself against everything, within reason, by having a single, integrated system so you can concentrate on riding the bike and not screwing with anything else while on it. The TX sensors only have to be 8" away from the regular ones, and that is easy on a bike with that much plastic and area. I am in the middle of doing mine now just like I advised you on my BMW S1000XR.
 

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Randyrj

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Thank you for the advice. I was thinking 1 regular/1 tx in front and 1 regular on rear. Couple questions.

What is difference between dsp and non for radar and do you need rear and front? Also I never have phone out but Bluetooth is connected. Is it better to go Hi-FI for controls accessibility?

Thanks for the help.
 

Turbo King

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Thank you for the advice. I was thinking 1 regular/1 tx in front and 1 regular on rear. Couple questions.

What is difference between dsp and non for radar and do you need rear and front? Also I never have phone out but Bluetooth is connected. Is it better to go Hi-FI for controls accessibility?

Thanks for the help.
There are a lot smarter people on here than me that can tell you all the reasons why, with better detail and more correct answers, than I will give you here, but I will try:

1. ALP provides me with everything I need. I want an INTEGRATED system. ONE vendor. ONE interface, GUI, etc, whatever its called, to interact with and configure your bikes countermeasures. For me, the only one I liked was ALP. I JUST WANT ONE SYSTEM. I think ALP is the best for MY needs. "Everybody" says ALP is the best jammer. Period. And their stand alone, remote mounted dual DSP detectors should provide fantastic coverage compared to the majority of dash mounted radar detectors out there. I don't care if there are "better" radar detectors out there , with one beating the other by 100 or 200 feet. I don't care. I just want ONE, DIRECTIONAL, ANNOUNCED, SYSTEM. I need to pay attention first and foremost to riding my bike. I need a system that will draw the LEAST amount of attention from that PRIMARY function! For me, that's ALP all the way. One and done. They have every little piece of the puzzle and sell it all to you with immediate shipping and great packaging and all the materials to needed complete your install. I am very impressed so far, and anticipate good results with their solution to providing excellent coverage for using countermeasures against threats.

2. We are not talking about driving a car. You are on a vehicle that requires balance and attention to what you are doing. All your hands and feet are engaged in piloting the vehicle. That should be your primary concern: Not falling off or wrecking. So why not have everything bluetoothed to your helmet? Forget the speakers. I want that thing BLASTING in my ears! "LASER AHEAD!". Especially because I have a full face helmet and wear earplugs. NAd I plan on never using the controls, and using the ALP app for everything. I still don't know how to operate the system, I am busy on getting the install perfect. As in perfectly mounted, perfectly wired and perfectly CONFIGURED and using that app.

3. You want to have front and rear protection for the arrows, sure. but if you are busy looking at the road, other vehicles, surface conditions, speed, weather considerations, etc, you don't want to have to LOOK for a threat, or eve LOOK at the arrows. You can glance at the arrows (in between GPS, Waze, etc,: - its a lot already). But why not have a voice in your helmet that says: "KA>>>...BEHIND". Easier. Your not getting that with one DSP.
Bottom line: There are sometimes threats from behind AFTER you have passed them, where they are hiding: HIGHWAY: Bushes/trees on a highway, ramps on a highway after an overpass, etc. Locally or 2 lane roads: buildings, parked trucks,vans, cars, etc. You are a sitting duck then if you fly past them and they soot you from behind.

4. I am sure most of the threats will come from in front. But I want to know WHERE thy are, IN MY EAR, and I don't want to have to do anything to find their location. I'm busy riding.

5. If a threat located, and speed needs to be lowered quickly: What I have to do then is look ahead, then in my mirrors, determine if it is safe to drastically reduce forward my vehicle's momentum, and engage in operating my controls to lower the vehicle speed to comply with the posted speed limit. This means both brakes [hand and foot], possibly gear/s, body english, clutch, etc. Then its a race to sut off the unit and beat the 4 second delay on the jammer if its a laser threat, so as not to cause suspicion that a countermeasure is being employed.

6. If I am going down south or other states, I want everything I can on there to try and defeat all the new fancy Dragon-Eye 2 lasers, etc, or whatever all the lasers are called. I don't know what they are all called, how they work or what they do. I just know I am better protected with a TX front and rear, a regular sensor/transmitter front and rear, an TWO net radar DSP's.

7. If I am doing the limit, and a threat is coming up strong from behind, I want to know it. I might decide to get on it just as it shows up and get zapped. I don't want that.

Two years ago one of my friends got a ticket down south. He had to get a lawyer and go to some fugazy "driving class" It cost him $2,000. And he is no idiot, it took a bit of work to even get that penalty. There almost the $2,700 for the system right there.

It comes down to money: If you don't have the scratch to do it, do what you can. I totally get that. Just a used R3 is still great and is better than riding naked! Hell, ANYTHING is better than what most people have. At least it's SOMETHING. I run a V1 and JBV1 on my other smaller bike, and my game is as tight as I can afford right now on my KTM. That's all its got. So that's all I use on it. (THANKS JOHN! Greatest App E V E R!) You don't NEED everything I listed to be safe(ER)! You didn't mention cash that I saw. And I didn't just pull the money for mine out of petty cash for my system, I saved up for it, for a while. Mainly because of my friend's ticket. Get what you can afford, by all means. I mean, I would like a Ducati Panigale V4 R, but I don't have $40,000 to spend on a motorcycle.

This is just my thoughts, and I am no expert. I just want to do this misery once, do it right, and never have to f&%k with it again. Then I know I have done everything I can, within reason, to have an integrated system, that gives me the best protection that I can get, and hopefully pay the least amount of attention to as I am riding my bike.

PRIORITY # 1: A safe ride with no accidents.
PRIORITY # 2: No citations.

My $.02

Best wishes for a great system for you!

PS: Hire Vortex for a consult. You won't regret it. Time = money. When you have someone that is available who lives, eats and breathes this stuff, it's a no-brainer. Or spend weeks or months on here reading and learning for free. Your call, your time, your money. I learned to the best of MY abilities (lol, which isn't too much) and realized I needed to get professional advice.

People at NASA don't get a local automotive technician to design their system integration.

And that's no knock on the practical engineers who repair vehicles on a daily basis. They are some of the smartest, most creative people I have ever met. And they exceed my abilities to be sure. But there are different levels of expertise in areas that some people are knowledgeable about and some people are not.
 
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Rossm812

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There are a lot smarter people on here than me that can tell you all the reasons why, with better detail and more correct answers, than I will give you here, but I will try:

1. You want an INTEGRATED system. ONE vendor. ONE interface, GUI, etc, whatever its called, to interact with and configure your bikes countermeasures. We are not talking about driving a car. You are on a vehicle that requires balance and attention to what you are doing. All your hands and feet are engaged in piloting the vehicle. That should be your primary concern: Not falling off or wrecking. So why not heve everything bluetoothed to your helmet? Forget the speakers. I want that thing BLASTING in my ears! "LASER AHEAD!". Especially because I have a full face helmet and wear earplugs.

2. You want to have front and rear protection for the arrows, sure. but if you are busy looking at the road, other vehicles, surface conditions, speed, weather considerations, etc, you don't want to have to LOOK for a threat, or eve LOOK at the arrows. You can glance at the arrows (in between GPS, Waze, etc,: - its a lot already). But why not have a voice in your helmet that says: "KA>>>...BEHIND". Easier. Your not getting that with one DSP.
Bottom line: There are sometimes threats from behind AFTER you have passed them, where they are hiding: HIGHWAY: Bushes/trees on a highway, ramps on a highway after an overpass, etc. Locally or 2 lane roads: buildings, parked trucks,vans, cars, etc. You are a sitting duck then if you fly past them and they soot you from behind.

3. I am sure most of the threats will come from in front. But I want to know WHERE thy are, IN MY EAR, and I don't want to have to do anything to find their location. I'm busy riding.

4. If a threat located, and speed needs to be lowered quickly: What I have to do then is look ahead, then in my mirrors, determine if it is safe to drastically reduce forward my vehicle's momentum, and engage in operating my controls to lower the vehicle speed to comply with the posted speed limit. This means both brakes [hand and foot], possibly gear/s, body english, clutch, etc. Then its a race to sut off the unit and beat the 4 second delay on the jammer if its a laser threat, so as not to cause suspicion that a countermeasure is being employed.

5. If I am going down south or other states, I want everything I can on there to try and defeat all the new fancy Dragon-Eye 2 lasers, etc, or whatever all the lasers are called. I don't know what they are all called, how they work or what they do. I just know I am better protected with a TX front and rear, a regular sensor/transmitter front and rear, an TWO net radar DSP's.

6. If I am doing the limit, and a threat is coming up strong from behind, I want to know it. I might decide to get on it just as it shows up and get zapped. I don't want that.

Two years ago one of my friends got a ticket down south. He had to get a lawyer and go to some fugazy "driving class" It cost him $2,000. And he is no idiot, it took a bit of work to even get that penalty. There almost the $2,700 for the system right there.

It comes down to money: If you don't have the scratch to do it, do what you can. I totally get that. Just a used R3 is still great and is better than riding naked! Hell, ANYTHING is better than what most people have. At least it's SOMETHING. I run a V1 and JBV1 on my other smaller bike, and my game is as tight as I can afford right now on my KTM. That's all its got. So that's all I use on it. (THANKS JOHN! Greatest App E V E R!) You don't NEED everything I listed to be safe(ER)! You didn't mention cash that I saw. And I didn't just pull the money for mine out of petty cash for my system, I saved up for it, for a while. Mainly because of my friend's ticket. Get what you can afford, by all means. I mean, I would like a Ducati Panigale V4 R, but I don't have $40,000 to spend on a motorcycle.

This is just my thoughts, and I am no expert. I just want to do this misery once, do it right, and never have to f&%k with it again. Then I know I have done everything I can, within reason, to have an integrated system, that gives me the best protection that I can get, and hopefully pay the least amount of attention to as I am riding my bike.

PRIORITY # 1: A safe ride with no accidents.
PRIORITY # 2: No citations.

My $.02

Best wishes for a great system for you!

PS: Hire Vortex for a consult. You won't regret it. Time = money. When you have someone that is available who lives, eats and breathes this stuff, it's a no-brainer. Or spend weeks or months on here reading and learning for free. Your call, your time, your money. I learned to the best of MY abilities (lol, which isn't too much) and realized I needed to get professional advice.

People at NASA don't get a local automotive technician to design their system integration.

And that's no knock on the practical engineers who repair vehicles on a daily basis. They are some of the smartest, most creative people I have ever met. And they exceed my abilities to be sure. But there are different levels of expertise in areas that some people are knowledgeable about and some people are not.
All good advice... Although Vortex doesn't ride motorcycles- several have asked about bikes on videos and threads before. So that may not be as exacting help.

It may be worthwhile to start with an ALP 3 head setup (2 standard and one TX head) setup first and figure out with that as a baseline as to what protects your bike best. Try 2 heads or 1 head/1tx up front or in back and test against guns used where you live. And then buy what you need to add to complete the system.

Where are you located if we might ask, that could steer what you should use to protect yourself. If no dragons in your area or where you plan to travel that dramatically changes your needs.

DSP vs original Netradar is a difference in range and overall performance. Vortex had a great video about them.

Additionally somewhere around here I had seen a 3D printed CPU mount for the ALP CPU. Something like that could mount VERY cleanly on the side of one of your saddlebags. Unfortunately cables are long and designed for cars so you will have to cut/splice (or re-terminate RJ ends and void warranties), have custom cables made, or find a way to cleanly coil slack.

You could always order a spare set of extension cables and just crimp new RJ ends (or find someone who can for you) to make custom short cables.

The hifi control set has a speaker connector on the control set so that's the only addition other than a speaker it offers over the standard control set. Bluetooth should do well for you unless you can connect the output to your bike sound somehow. It's a mini TRS connector is all.

If you would like to chat real-time im happy to share my own experiences in testing against several lidar guns on my own installs. Shoot me a message...
 
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Transporter

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As for headlight being the only target on the huge front end, keep believing that and wonder why you got pulled over. Color has absolutely nothing to do with it. Not even Black 2.0 prevents a return signal!
 

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