Is It The Battery Charger?

Discussion in 'Car Discussion' started by KrazyK, Nov 25, 2018.

  1. KrazyK

    KrazyK Remember the Humboldt Broncos Intermediate User Premium Member

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    About a month ago I started suspecting my SUV battery was getting weak. You see, the SUV has a battery protection system that detects if the voltage is getting low (with the engine off, parked). Prior to a month ago I could shut down the engine in the SUV and my dash cams and RD would stay powered up for maybe an hour before the battery protection system would shut things down. Over the last month, when I shut off the engine all the accessories go off immediately. I put the charger on about 2 weeks ago and right off the bat it shows very low charge left in the battery. Next day the charger is showing pretty much fully charged but when I shut off the engine after driving all the accessories go off right away.

    Interestingly, several days ago I put the charger on again and again it shows a very low state of charge. I left the charger on for 2 days (trickle charge) and at the end nothing had changed, still low but more interesting is, I put the charger on another fully charged battery in the garage and it shows full charge.
    Really interesting is the service department at the dealership checked the battery and charging system and everything came back 100% (no charge, warranty). I then took the vehicle to a independent battery shop I know well and they also say it is decent shape and load checked well!

    So, on a fully charged battery in storage the charger shows it is fully charged yet on the battery in my SUV it shows very low charge and 2 other sources also say fully charged. Any ideas?
     
  2. yandreev3

    yandreev3 Has a subscription with CHP Intermediate User Premium Member

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    Either a faulty charger or something along the lines ofof what happened to me. My car has a weird form of regenerative braking and that system started throwing trouble codes and eventually stoped working. I also noticed that my engine didn't fire up as crisply as it normally does. I had the battery tested twice and it passed both times. Couple of weeks later my car refused to start so I changed the battery and everything went back to normal. How old is your battery and is it an AGM battery?

    Another thought is maybe your car "learned" there's something wrong with it because every time you park it battery rapidly discharges?
     
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  3. Deacon

    Deacon TXCTG Advanced User Premium Member

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    Have you checked the water levels in the battery? Hopefully the shops did, at least.
     
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  4. KrazyK

    KrazyK Remember the Humboldt Broncos Intermediate User Premium Member

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    A 3 year old lead/acid. The engine gets turned over perfectly but stumbles a bit until warm but has been doing that for awhile.
    --- Double Post Merged, Nov 26, 2018, Original Post Date: Nov 26, 2018 ---
    Correct, both shops tested the S.G. and the level. All normal.
     
  5. oktavf

    oktavf Premium Member Beginner User Premium Member

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    Don't think you mentioned it but if you did apologies... Have you tried running a pretty accurate volt meter even if its one of those 12v socket ones!? I got one for about $15 with a built in USB charger and its been decently accurate versus my Fluke and thus I ALWAYS know what my charging system is doing no guessing. Just a thought as it could be a random loose ground, in/out alternator, etc...
     
    Last edited: Nov 27, 2018
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  6. KrazyK

    KrazyK Remember the Humboldt Broncos Intermediate User Premium Member

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    Thanks for the reply @oktavf . Yes, using a good voltmeter. At the time it went to the shop it was showing 13.0 volts. After the shop it has been steady now at 14.2 volts. They may have hit the battery with a good bit of juice. We'll see if it hangs in.
    I am still getting the phenomenon of the charger showing great charge on my spare battery and showing a poor charge level in my SUV vehicle. I don't know what to make of it.
     
  7. yandreev3

    yandreev3 Has a subscription with CHP Intermediate User Premium Member

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    I'm assuming spare battery is disconnected and SUB battery is installed and connected. Because there's load on the suv battery from the car's electrics, the charger can't account for it and says poor charge where as the unloaded spare battery it has no external factors.

    Honestly I think it's something up with your car if you are 100% sure the battery is fine but it still immediately shuts off the accessories on ignition off
     
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  8. KrazyK

    KrazyK Remember the Humboldt Broncos Intermediate User Premium Member

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    Thanks for the reply @yandreev3 , and yes, the spare battery is disconnected and the SUV battery is connected.
    To clarify, at the moment, with battery in the SUV, after the visit to the shop they must have really put some charging amps to it because it is showing 14.2 volts and all the accessories are staying on now. The charger is still showing a very weak charge level in the battery.

    The only thing I can think of is that like you mentioned, maybe the electronics are causing a false reading....................
     
  9. oktavf

    oktavf Premium Member Beginner User Premium Member

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    Crazy talk here but short of being on my bike... The voltage starts low (especially when cold) and then goes down. If your constantly charging high then the battery is NOT holding a charge and your alternator is just constantly charging. For example I'll hit 14.2 in the morning when its 35 degrees out and after about 10-15 minutes it'll drop to 14.1 then 14.0 after about 30 minutes when I get to work this is on a dead cold start in the AM. On the way home it starts at 14.2 and drops to 13.8 by the time I'm home. Sure if its a bike with a simple charging circuit a constant voltage is "normal" but not in a car with a alternator and actual voltage regulator...
     
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  10. The Pope

    The Pope Learning to Fly Beginner User

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    Something else to look at..... the belt that drives the alternator and the tensioner.
    Check to make sure that it's in good shape and is tensioned to the proper amount.

    But this wouldn't cause the immediate shutdown of your accessories, but could cause a less than optimum charging of your battery while you're driving.
     
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  11. KrazyK

    KrazyK Remember the Humboldt Broncos Intermediate User Premium Member

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    The charging system was checked, belts too.

    The SUV has its own battery protect system. The system shuts down all accessories when the voltage drops to a set amount.
     
  12. oktavf

    oktavf Premium Member Beginner User Premium Member

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    If they hooked up a quick tester then it won't show what I described. Ie "oh hey yeah its within spec @ 14.2v because spec in the manual shows 13.5v-14.5 so its fine"... Stealerships have been wrong before! :)
     
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  13. Up All Night

    Up All Night Premium Member Advanced User Premium Member

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    With the car off, take the positive terminal off the battery insert an amp meter and see if there is a gremlin that’s pulling current and sucking the battery down.


    Posted from my iPhone using the RDF Mobile App!
     
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  14. KrazyK

    KrazyK Remember the Humboldt Broncos Intermediate User Premium Member

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    I don't think they used a quick tester. They had the vehicle overnight. The service guy said they would start by fully charging the battery and then they would put a load on the battery to draw it down. When I picked up the vehicle it sounds like it took between 4 - 5 hours to run down and they were happy with that and all the other checks they did.

    That's a great idea. I will try that right after my next experiment. I am borrowing my son's charger and I know it is a really good one. With that charger I will once again test both batteries (the spare and the in service one). Thit will tell me if my charger is goofy or not. If my son's charger shows the same issue I will disconnect the battery totally in the SUV and test it like that. I am very suspicious of my charger right now and I am wondering if the electronics of the vehicle are causing false indications. I will post here as soon as I can try these things.
     
    Last edited: Nov 30, 2018
  15. yandreev3

    yandreev3 Has a subscription with CHP Intermediate User Premium Member

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  16. Up All Night

    Up All Night Premium Member Advanced User Premium Member

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  17. benzr

    benzr Been there done that !! Original V1 user !! Advanced User

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    Wow Pretty obvious stuff yet I NEVER put it together in that manner. !!!

    Thanks for the share.

    Thanks alot buddy NOW i have yet another quick project to do !!! L0L

    NOT cause i need to but curious what I'll find. !!

    Benzr


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  18. benzr

    benzr Been there done that !! Original V1 user !! Advanced User

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    If it was a car .... i would check the "TRIODE ASSBLY" inside the Alternator.
    In a bike I am sure theres a similar component.
    Do a google search your bike and triode assembly,
    Sure something will come up.

    Good Luck


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  19. oktavf

    oktavf Premium Member Beginner User Premium Member

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    My bike used a old school "shunt" setup. Turns extra unused energy into heat. That's basically it. Its a crappy voltage regulator. Since I've gone to a newer Mosfet style my voltages make much more sense and more like a car regulator! :)
     
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  20. benzr

    benzr Been there done that !! Original V1 user !! Advanced User

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    Nice touch on the MOSFET Transistors.
    They'll be more hardy and will produce Clean" voltage = much easier on your ignition box coil pack or whatever they are using these days !

    Bike should run better too I would think.

    So whats the issue then ??
    Did this start after the cold weather hit?
    Did this issue occur when it was warmer?




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