I picked up a new set of wheels, supposed be my wife's car, but oddly enough I've needed to "test it" every day since we got it a couple weeks ago. Any way the Model 3 is a pretty unique vehicle with a super uncluttered dash. But I think I found a really cool spot to mount the Valentine One. Since I run V1Driver on my iPhone I (I mean my wife) really doesn't need physical access to the V1 nor does it's display need to be in view. V1Driver will Automute, Display Direction, Speed Mute, Auto Connect, Speak Direction over hands free protocol. I (my wife) can even have the radio blasting and it will mute the radio and announce the alert. You can see it running on the phone sitting on the wireless charger. Note: my wife never touched the V1 or ever blasted the radio. Obviously, I have not hardwired the V1 yet. I think it will be easier than up front. I need to confirm performance here before I commit wiring. I plan to route the wire down the right rear pillar and find a switched 12V on the Amp. There has to be some switched 12V there. I'd like to put the Dongle back at the Amp and not at the V1, but I'm not sure how reliable it will be that far from the phone. I really didn't want to clutter up the windshield and spoil the Model 3 look, nor interfere with the rear view mirror, nor route wires in the front at all (I have in many cars before). There is just too much stuff going on up front that could cause an issue. After all that camera behind the mirror does drive the car. I used that 3M Dual Lock (or Scotch) stuff you see on EZPass to mount it. The V1 is upside down because it's flat on the bottom. It looks tilted in some pics but it's level and points straight at the rearview mirror. What's also cool is it's completely invisible from the outside as well. Day or night. Even if you know where to look. The only mammal that will ever see it are my 2 four legged friends. Did you notice the hidden DashCam too (Tesla V9 any day now). This is where I tapped power, on the Rear Amp. Note: Any time the car is not "Sleeping" this is ON. It is on more often than the Cigarette Lighter Adapter Circuit. But it does shut OFF. I bent U shape lug to 90 degrees and wedged it in there. I didn't want to tap the wire. Partly because it's very large gauge. The V1 is immediately fused after the tap. This is where I mount the Valentine One Hardwire Kit. Grounded to Radio and Clips on the Subwoofer. This is the route to get up to the inside of the bottom of the rear window The lining comes out easy. Just fold back the trunk gasket. You do not have to remove gasket. I tied it back with string while I worked. This are the plastic rivets you have to remove to get the center trim off before you can peel back the lining. Getting these rivets back in was the hardest part. They come out easy. But they are a little bit sprung and the whole has very sharp edges. Maybe a file on the hole edges to smooth it or a little bit of lube would have helped. This is a close up of the center trim you need to remove. So you can see how the clips work. You do not have to pull hard and it came out very easy and went back in easy. Except those darn rivets. You need to remove this rivet on each side. Pull the center plug back with a small screw driver then wiggle the whole plug out. This is where I went down into trunk. I shined a flash light from the bottom at night to find it. It goes direct to trunk. It's not along some path. Just push the wire down and you'll see it below. It's in a little double wall cavity though. Which has lots of large holes in it. This is what the V1 looks like looking back from drivers seat. This is the path the wire takes in the cabin. I used a plastic pry bar to tension the trim away from glass as I tuck the wire in. Some spot didn't even need the prying but some did. It varied a bit. And more... It was a little snug around the rear defog connector. But was fine. Looking up at V1 from rear seat. The Dongle and splitter could be in trunk but it might not get a good signal there. I might add the conceal display facing forward.