GPS Acquisition problem RC-M

Starz26

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New Radenso install with ALP..

GPS is placed in the center of the dash, under a cover. When it connects the signal is always strong. It has even connected inside my garage and other obstructed areas pretty quickly. I say this to make an assumption the placement of it inside the car is not an issue.

About 75% of the time (total of approx 10 starts as a new install) after starting the car (and thus the Radenso) the GPS will not obtain a lock and the GPS indicator keeps flashing. I waited for almost 20 minutes while traveling on an open highway...The only way I could get the GPS to lock was to hold the power button on the Radenso to power off, wait 10 seconds or so, then turn it back on. Upon turning back on the GPS locked immediately. Now, a few times I had to power cycle a several times for it to work but I may not have been powering down long enough so....

All times there was what I would believe to be no obstructions to obtaining a signal.

Has anyone seen this before?

Install background:

In the BMW the installer could not find a fuse that had no power on shutting the car down, even after 5 minutes. They did find a fuse with low voltage on shut down so they attached a relay to it and connected to the power for the Radenso. Then connected that to a 30 amp fuse. So when the voltage dropped it cut the power to the Radenso. When the car started, the relay saw the increase in voltage and allowed the power to the Radenso.

Otherwise, so far, the Radar seems solid. several K band BSM falses but much less that previous detectors. I think one was to a Honda and Ford truck but cannot confirm. Working on getting the BlackVue situated so I can go back and review to see what the falses were from. It is really quite though.
 
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Starz26

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Pretty rare that you wouldn't have any switched fuses but it's possible.

Does the BMW have timed fuses? Apparently they can stay on for 30min.

www.thedashcamstore.com: How to Identify Constant and Switched Fuses | DIY Dashcam Install




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Yea, they are timed but I know they waited for a while and checked and they all still had voltage. I do not think that is the issue though but put it in just in case. Everything else turns on and shuts down just as expected, including the Radenso.....Not sure it the GPS issue is related in any way
 
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dinkydi

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I waited for almost 20 minutes while traveling on an open highway.

mine always takes longer when i drive off,think that's normal, same with my ALP gps and dash cam
 

ThreePedals6.2

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Just to rule out positioning of your GPS itself I would mount it on your dash for a week or so and see how it does out in the open. I used to have have longer lock times until I moved it out in the open, now not that its instantaneous, but it locks much much quicker, and this is where it has been ever since.

Note* I dont have the Radenso GPS unit but as with all GPS units it's best for them to have a clear view.
 

beaker

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You say the GPS receiver is "under a cover" - what kind of cover? Where is it, exactly? Is it within the dash, or sitting on top of it?

+1 to what ThreePedals said. As a test, move it to the top of the dash, with a clear view of the sky, to see what happens. I did that on my install (same as yours, an RC-M with ALP) and I'd get a lock anywhere from one to three minutes. I've since moved it to inside the dash, sitting on top of an internal support and almost touching the underside of the dash. I get consistent quick locks now.

I'm surprised your installer had a problem locating a good fuse to tap into. What model BMW do you have? Which fuse box did the installer use - the one in the engine bay or the one in the trunk? You shouldn't need to use a relay - you can connect directly to the fuse using an add-a-circuit.

I'm a bit concerned about the 30 amp fuse, though. Is that the only fuse in the circuit to the ALP and RC-M? The fuse that comes with the RC-M is only a two amp (both the RC-M and ALP are max 2 amp).
 

Starz26

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You say the GPS receiver is "under a cover" - what kind of cover? Where is it, exactly? Is it within the dash, or sitting on top of it?

+1 to what ThreePedals said. As a test, move it to the top of the dash, with a clear view of the sky, to see what happens. I did that on my install (same as yours, an RC-M with ALP) and I'd get a lock anywhere from one to three minutes. I've since moved it to inside the dash, sitting on top of an internal support and almost touching the underside of the dash. I get consistent quick locks now.

I'm surprised your installer had a problem locating a good fuse to tap into. What model BMW do you have? Which fuse box did the installer use - the one in the engine bay or the one in the trunk? You shouldn't need to use a relay - you can connect directly to the fuse using an add-a-circuit.

I'm a bit concerned about the 30 amp fuse, though. Is that the only fuse in the circuit to the ALP and RC-M? The fuse that comes with the RC-M is only a two amp (both the RC-M and ALP are max 2 amp).
1. GPS is under cover (with hoes as it is a grill type cover). In the same location it will sometimes lock instantly and other times not
2. 2019 BMW X3 M40i. Trunk fuse box primarily, also check front after checking trunk
3. Not sure how the wiring is done after the line from the fuse but I know it is not just the Radenso. There is a dash cam, external battery pack that draws 9A, etc. I only know about the relay part. Everything else works perfectly. The installer is one of the best in the state so I would trust they know what they are doing vs my ability to explain. I would assign any confusion to me before their choices. All I know is they could not find a circuit that was completely dead on shut down. Beyond that, where the wire leads, or what else is present I do not know.

Given that everything else works, I probably should not have mentioned the wiring thing as it may be a bit of a red herring. Then again, I also know that sometimes thing you think do not need to be mentioned turn out to be the issue so....

I'll try it on the dash vs the cover in the next few days. The fact that a reboot gets an immediate lock concerns me more....Its new so I also really need some more data points. The last 2 drives it locked immediately.
 

ThreePedals6.2

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I'll try it on the dash vs the cover in the next few days. The fact that a reboot gets an immediate lock concerns me more....Its new so I also really need some more data points. The last 2 drives it locked immediately.
Yea I would try that first, run it this way for a bit and then if things still seem off just contact @Jon at Radenso , and he will definitely help take care of ya.
 

beaker

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GPS is under cover (with hoes as it is a grill type cover).
I still don't understand where the GPS is located. Is it inside the driver's cabin and on top of the dash, but under something? Is it mounted in the engine bay somewhere? Can you post a picture of it so we know exactly where it is?

The installer is one of the best in the state......they could not find a circuit that was completely dead on shut down
Those two statements contradict each other. I did my own install, which I had never done before, and even I had no problem finding not one, but many circuits that were tied to either accessory power or only powered when the engine was running. In BMWs there is even a printed diagram in the fuse box that shows a map of the fuses and which parts of the car are linked to which fuses.

It's not enough to say "Well, every thing works so it must be OK". It's fine to have the RC-M and ALP tied in with other electronics, but if it's being protected by a 30A fuse, there's a chance that your RC-M and ALP could get fried since they should be protected by a 2A fuse. There's a chance that the installer added an inline fuse to the RC-M and ALP in which case you'd be fine, but if I were you I'd trace the lines (or have someone trace them) to make sure since it's your money on the line.
 

Starz26

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Alright, so the GPS was mounted under the trim for the Heads Up display. As such there was a foam gasket and plastic trim piece above it. I moved it to be on top of the heads up. Does not look good but will suffice for the testing.

As for the power on the 30 AMP, that is just to get a tap into power that drops when the car shuts down. Everything else is protected behind their own fuses.

It will be a week or two before I can post results and Radenso and I are supposed to meet up to test the BMW ALP install with 2 standard and 1 transmit sensor against the dragon eye on the 24th. Hopefully will have some videos and pics to upload after that.
 

sdrawkcaB

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30 amp is a no no
I used an add-a-fuse right on the fuse box. The original circuit has a 30 amp, and for the equipment I added in, I used a 5 amp. If done right and with an add-a-fuse, it can be done properly. Otherwise, I would agree with you in general -- 30 amp would be a lot of power to be running through a cable.
 

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