CPU Speaker Died- But LI's still Jam

usna93

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Just sharing for the other LI holdouts out there. In the first 30 minutes (of course) of a 14 hour round trip road trip, I noticed my speaker sound quality garbling a bit. I turned the system off then on and then now there was zero sound at all (i.e. no "parking aid is deactivated"). So I didn't have any way to know if it's working. I got back from my trip and finally got to test the system with my trusty PL3 and I validated that the system does still jam as the PL3 couldn't get a reading. I SUSPECTED the system was still working b/c the power light on the on/off button was still illuminated. The concern I had was that normally, prior to the speaker going out, I noticed how the power light had always turned off for a 1-3 seconds during initialization, then turned on when the system was armed and I assumed that is normal. Now with the speaker broken, the power light stayed right from the start. Despite that difference in the light, I thought indicating there's power is a good thing. Oh, I also did a "test" with the handheld LI tester and the power lights did flicker, just as they normally would so that told me they at least detected the laser.
Yeah, now I'm expecting that the next thing to go is the entire CPU...but for now it works. Bottom line, if your speaker conks out, don't assume the system is dead, test out the system with the guns that it defends against. Hope this helps someone out.
 

hiddencam

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Just sharing for the other LI holdouts out there. In the first 30 minutes (of course) of a 14 hour round trip road trip, I noticed my speaker sound quality garbling a bit. I turned the system off then on and then now there was zero sound at all (i.e. no "parking aid is deactivated"). So I didn't have any way to know if it's working. I got back from my trip and finally got to test the system with my trusty PL3 and I validated that the system does still jam as the PL3 couldn't get a reading. I SUSPECTED the system was still working b/c the power light on the on/off button was still illuminated. The concern I had was that normally, prior to the speaker going out, I noticed how the power light had always turned off for a 1-3 seconds during initialization, then turned on when the system was armed and I assumed that is normal. Now with the speaker broken, the power light stayed right from the start. Despite that difference in the light, I thought indicating there's power is a good thing. Oh, I also did a "test" with the handheld LI tester and the power lights did flicker, just as they normally would so that told me they at least detected the laser.
Yeah, now I'm expecting that the next thing to go is the entire CPU...but for now it works. Bottom line, if your speaker conks out, don't assume the system is dead, test out the system with the guns that it defends against. Hope this helps someone out.
Yeah my CPU audio chip fried itself back before I bought my ALPs. No audio but jammed just fine. Emailed Cliff and he said they no longer manufacture the CPUs so I rigged up an LED to the on/off switch (which flashes when targeted) so at least I could SEE when I was getting painted - but that wasn't an ideal solution because in the daytime I struggled to see the LED flashing. So then I MacGyver'd / glued an LED to the camera lens of an old android running a motion detection app. When the LI switch/LED flashed the phone detected motion, and would then sound an audio alert. Ran like that for months and it worked perfectly fine.

I ended up buying a used LI CPU off the forum for 50 bucks and problem solved. Now have a good/normal/non-MacGyver embarrassment laser jammer back up for rentals. :D

Just know that you're now at risk of JTG, which is BAD! Spend the 50 bucks on a used CPU and avoid that headache. Would hate for you to JTG a LEO who then pulls you over and goes exploring the grill and writing tickets.
 

usna93

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Yeah my CPU audio chip fried itself back before I bought my ALPs. No audio but jammed just fine. Emailed Cliff and he said they no longer manufacture the CPUs so I rigged up an LED to the on/off switch (which flashes when targeted) so at least I could SEE when I was getting painted - but that wasn't an ideal solution because in the daytime I struggled to see the LED flashing. So then I MacGyver'd / glued an LED to the camera lens of an old android running a motion detection app. When the LI switch/LED flashed the phone detected motion, and would then sound an audio alert. Ran like that for months and it worked perfectly fine.

I ended up buying a used LI CPU off the forum for 50 bucks and problem solved. Now have a good/normal/non-MacGyver embarrassment laser jammer back up for rentals. :D

Just know that you're now at risk of JTG, which is BAD! Spend the 50 bucks on a used CPU and avoid that headache. Would hate for you to JTG a LEO who then pulls you over and goes exploring the grill and writing tickets.
That's a great story! Kudos to all the creativity! During my ride I actually thought about those instructions to add an external speaker...I think what I'm going to do is just rely on my V1 to alert to a laser hit. It happened on my trip and I instinctively shut off the LI's despite no speaker.
In your situation, did the CPU eventually conk out or did you just go the ALP route anyway?
 

hiddencam

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That's a great story! Kudos to all the creativity! During my ride I actually thought about those instructions to add an external speaker...I think what I'm going to do is just rely on my V1 to alert to a laser hit. It happened on my trip and I instinctively shut off the LI's despite no speaker.
In your situation, did the CPU eventually conk out or did you just go the ALP route anyway?
Thanks, I guess "necessity is the mother of invention" haha

The problem with relying on a V1 to alert to laser is that sometimes even the mighty V1 won't alert. I've actually tested this with other enthusiasts running jammers and V1s several times, and have seen a V1 remain silent for many shots with my Laser Atlanta, particularly shots under 500 feet. So it's a problem!

Yeah, my CPU was still jamming when I stopped using it. But if I were still using that CPU I'd definitely still be rigging up that cell phone / motion detection / audio solution just for peace of mind that I don't accidentally JTG a LEO.
 

The Only Sarge

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Get a cheap external speaker.
 

hiddencam

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Get a cheap external speaker.
If his issue is the same as the one I had just plugging in an external speaker doesn't solve the problem, which is actually the audio amplifier chip on the circuit board. I just dug out the email from cliff from 2015 when this happened, and he said, "Sounds like you lost the oo-amp IC on the CPU. Yes, it still JAMS but no sound. Use the attached RMA to send us the CPU and we’ll see if that is the case. (But just a heads up, we no longer have any in stock)."

You'd think other components would wear out before an amp IC, but there it is. So for the TMG, make sure it's not the same IC that LI used! (Although two cases of this issue isn't exactly a rampant problem...)
 

Higado de Acero

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This just happened to me when my car battery died.
 

acsclio

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Get a cheap external speaker.
if the audio chip of the board dead ,, no audio at external speaker
some series of li have that audio chip problem.
i burned several chip try to fix it...
 

acsclio

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tda7052a is the audio integrate that Need to remplace at the li cpu board



Enviado desde mi RNE-L03 mediante Tapatalk
 

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