V1 wiring issue in flight

erickonphoenix

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This was not cool at all.

On a triple digit run this morning with a Tahoe SS behind me bouncing between 90 and 115. Waze was clear, ALP and V1 was quiet. I had to exit before him, gave him a wave and he kept on heading Southbound. When I got to the office, as I was powering everything down I look up and the Valentine is dead. I restart the car still nothing. So I'm like wtf? I move the V1 over to the Uniden R1's cable, plug it in then BAM it's on again. Apparently my ground or power must have loosed up during flight and the Valentine One dropped offline undetected.

Holy crap that would have sucked. I guess now I have to add in a "mid flight checklist"??
 

infiniti

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Do you run it in full dark mode? I find I pretty frequently check power lights on my systems...

Of course, I'm the one who counts the number of players on my son's soccer team after every substitution...so maybe that's an unrelated issue...
 

erickonphoenix

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Do you run it in full dark mode? I find I pretty frequently check power lights on my systems...

Of course, I'm the one who counts the number of players on my son's soccer team after every substitution...so maybe that's an unrelated issue...
No but the V1 is right of the RVM so not in line of sight. I usually use the remote display but the remote display stopped working last year so now I just check it if it makes noise. I can run it off the Unidens power for the rest of the week but that was a bad time to have it down especially sense I don't run the Uniden during the commute.
 

infiniti

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I see. Glad you skirted that issue today...
 

erickonphoenix

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I need a LP alarm or something similar. I guess I could put the entire power bus on another wire that leads to an alarm speaker. Then rig the alarm to be silent as long as theres power but I hate running everything off a single power source. Then I've got a single point of failure.
 

infiniti

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I need a LP alarm or something similar. I guess I could put the entire power bus on another wire that leads to an alarm speaker. Then rig the alarm to be silent as long as theres power but I hate running everything off a single power source. Then I've got a single point of failure.
First world problems...:)
 

erickonphoenix

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First world problems...:)
mmmhmmm, I need to dig up a shot of my nav station on my old boat "Phoenix". I had about twenty gadgets in the nav station of which maybe five were really necessary. The 300 mile radar was probably the most ridiculous but it could pick up cruise ships in the gulf while I was at anchor at Red Fish island. Good days those were.
 

mswlogo

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Was it working at startup and you lost it in "mid flight".
I'd sure notice if I didn't hear the bootup chime.
 

erickonphoenix

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Was it working at startup and you lost it in "mid flight".
I'd sure notice if I didn't hear the bootup chime.
Yeah, it was function in pre-flight. It dropped offline somewhere along the route.
 

Carbonatom13

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didn't we establish that the V1 range is about as good off last time we were all out testing???

J/K

But seriously....run the R3
 

erickonphoenix

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didn't we establish that the V1 range is about as good off last time we were all out testing???

J/K

But seriously....run the R3
LMFAO

I gotta have the arrows. The R1 is an excellent detector but without orientation it's just half a detector.
 

Carbonatom13

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yep...you can even change the tones between the 2 and run in dark mode ;)
 

erickonphoenix

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Ghetto arrows?
It's NOT the same. The front half needs to know what the back half is doing. Adding lockouts manually to 2 detectors. No way.
You want one display to tell you what's going on. Now if the R3 had a remote Display you might start to get close.
 

infiniti

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It's NOT the same. The front half needs to know what the back half is doing. Adding lockouts manually to 2 detectors. No way.
You want one display to tell you what's going on. Now if the R3 had a remote Display you might start to get close.
On trips in my wife's ride, I run Ghetto dual R3s and enjoy it. Admittedly, I nerf the hell out of k-band in the rear (30-40%), but it works pretty darn well. BSMs usually are on the back half of a car and face rearward, so it works surprisingly well. Unsure of the interference, but seems to work ok for me. This is a full-size SUV on front and back glass, so 8ft or so of separation.
 

BlueV1

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Here's a case where JBV1 (and possibly other apps) would be able to verbally warn of a lost connection at the moment it happened. :rolleye:
 

Freebird

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I hate power cord issues like shorts in the cord etc.. You know when you are cruising triple digits and the unit powers off then back on simulating an instant on shot. Grrrr brake check.
 

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