Custom power cords

Discussion in 'Official JBV1 Discussion Section' started by ultimase, Jun 17, 2018.

  1. ultimase

    ultimase Learning to Drive General User

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    Apologizes if this is in the wrong forum. I figured I'd have the best chance here as others are probably running something similar.

    Looking into invisicord or the possibility to make a custom cord. Right now running a dash cam and a V1 with bluetooth module. It looks like the v1 pulls around 400 mahs at full alert, I'd assume that the bluetooth module pulls even less than that, and unfortunately no specs on the dash cam. I know that the v1 and the bluetooth module will pull less than the 2 amps since that's what the fuse is on the cigarette adapter for both.

    I'd rather have a nice cord that pulls power from either the mirror or the wiper sensors. I have a cord that provides power to the dash cam and the v1 right now, but I'd need to make a custom cord to provide information pass through from the v1 to the bluetooth module and the dash cam.

    Only issue I'm having is that the telephone cord gauge is only about 24, and the amp limit is .6 amps. According to that I would be taking my chances with running everything through the telephone cord.

    Has anyone hardwired their v1, bluetooth and dash cam? Any examples or pictures?

    Thank you.
     
    Last edited: Jun 17, 2018
  2. novarider

    novarider PSL +5 Intermediate User

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    If you make one use ethernet cable and just use telephone connectors. Also I'd tap power from something less important than wipers. You wouldn't want to blow a fuse on your wipers when you need them
     
    Last edited: Jun 17, 2018
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  3. LouG

    LouG PSL +5 Intermediate User

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    I'd run separate cables for V1 etc, and dashcam, but together. I don't like having anything else on the detector circuit.
     
  4. InsipidMonkey

    InsipidMonkey Premium Monkey Advanced User Acceptus Premium Member

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    I found that tapping into my mirror power with both the V1 direct wire kit and a 12v to 5v USB power convertor caused too much of a voltage drop and the V1 wouldn't power on properly. Moved the dashcam power to a separate circuit and everything was fine.

    Depending on the gauge of wire going to your mirror you may or may not have a similar issue.
     
  5. mswlogo

    mswlogo Premium Member Advanced User Premium Member

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    The Bluetooth Dongle pulls less than 100 ma.

    A lot depends on how long the run is.

    If you are tapping off the mirror they should all be short runs.

    My guess is you’ll be fine.
     
  6. ultimase

    ultimase Learning to Drive General User

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    Thank you I hadn't thought of that. It looks like ethernet cable can range from 22 gauge to 26 gauge. Twenty two gauge would give me up to .9 amps, which I'd bet should be enough for the bluetooth module, the v1 and the dash cam. I'd just need to figure out a way to ensure I'm getting 22 gauge.
     
  7. ultimase

    ultimase Learning to Drive General User

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    Had not thought of that. I guess I can tap the wiper sensor for the V1/bluetooth, and then tap off the mirror for the dash cam
     
  8. novarider

    novarider PSL +5 Intermediate User

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    Do you have a garage door opener or coming home sensor you can tap instead of the wiper sensor?
     
  9. johnboy00

    johnboy00 Geaux Tigers! Advanced User Premium Member

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    I wouldn't run all three of those devices on a mirror or rain sensor circuit. The wires to those components are usually really skinny, since they don't draw much power, which may result in low voltage as @InsipidMonkey described. On my Ford Escape, I have V1 + V1C-LE + dash cam powered by the 15A heated steering wheel circuit (my Escape doesn't have that feature, but the circuit is there). On my Dodge Charger Pursuit, the two fuse boxes are under the hood and in the trunk. Instead of running power wires to either of those locations, I decided to tap each of my two 12V power points that are on a 30A circuit. I have V1 + V1C-LE tapped into one power point via the VR direct wire kit, and a dash cam tapped into the other with a marine 12V outlet and the USB adapter that came with the dash cam. So far, this works extremely well, even with a PD/USB charger plugged into one of the power points and charging a device.
     
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  10. ultimase

    ultimase Learning to Drive General User

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    I've found a few schematics on this forum that show the pin outs for the cable, but I just wanted a sanity check from those who may have done this already.

    It looks like I'll need at least a four wire telephone cable. But we'll go with 6 pins given the pinouts.
    #1 not used
    #2 on the v1 (display) will go to #5 on the bluetooth module
    #3 on the v1 (ground) will splice with #4 on the bluetooth module and then go to ground
    #4 on the v1 (+12v) will splice with #3 on the bluetooth module and then go to +12v
    #5 audio mute, not sure if this needs to be connected
    #6 not used.

    Pinouts referenced here:
    www.radardetector.net: V1 Ports - Wiring Pin Out Schematic

    Even if the telephone cable is 24 gauge I should squeak under the amperage limit with the V1 drawing a max of 400 mah and the bluetooth module drawing 100 mah. Might not be the worst idea to try to integrate a 1 amp fuse somewhere as well.
     
    Last edited: Jun 18, 2018
  11. novarider

    novarider PSL +5 Intermediate User

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    Isn't there a fuse built into the V1 hard wire adapter?
     
  12. ultimase

    ultimase Learning to Drive General User

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    Yes there's a 2 amp fuse built into the v1 hardwire adapter. It's just not as clean and takes a ton of space.
     
  13. LouG

    LouG PSL +5 Intermediate User

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    I've never taken power from car circuits that are in use. It's easy to find unused terminals switched or unswitched from a fuse box or similar. Running a wire up to the windscreen header is equally easy on Jap or Euro cars, I'm guessing US is no different. The only thing to watch for is Canbus systems.
    I had my Cupra wired by a Pro as we were picking it up from another city and doing a road trip home, but when I saw how easy the install was I could have saved nearly $200.
     
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  14. ultimase

    ultimase Learning to Drive General User

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    That is a worry, most vehicles now have side curtain airbags located in the pillars. Having a wire run up next to it could hamper the deployment. That's why I'd rather pull power from somewhere in the close vicinity.
     
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  15. InsipidMonkey

    InsipidMonkey Premium Monkey Advanced User Acceptus Premium Member

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    This has been discussed in other threads, and it doesn't look like it would be an issue:

     
  16. Deacon

    Deacon TXCTG Advanced User Premium Member

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    Cables are NO hindrance to the airbag. Those things are brutal.
     
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  17. ultimase

    ultimase Learning to Drive General User

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    thank you, that puts my mind more at ease.
     
  18. mswlogo

    mswlogo Premium Member Advanced User Premium Member

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    The problem isn’t the airbag. It’s the cable projected into your face.

    You do have to be careful where you run wires.
     
  19. bikepoet

    bikepoet Learning to Drive General User

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    Similar experience for me.. I hacked a 2 wire telephone cord and used posi-taps into my auto-dim mirror in the Sorento, but the G1WH dashcam usb dongle pulled too much current, so I plan to use a hard wire in the fuse-box using a micro-fuse add-a-circuit and route the wire up the A pillar. For the Subaru, I have hardwire to the V1 using the V1 kit and add-a-fuse that also powers the dashcam usb dongle with a posi-twist wire nut.
     
  20. LouG

    LouG PSL +5 Intermediate User

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    Give me plastic cable rather than Takata shrapnel.
     
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