~25 ft V1 power cord...

Deacon

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#21
It’s always better to go with bigger wiring, especially for DC. 26 AWG just isn’t going to cut it for providing power over long distances. If it were me, I would find a power source near where I want to mount it and use an OEM V1 wire. If I wanted a kill switch in front and a mount in the rear, and it’s too far to use the factory hardwire, I would run standard ~14 AWG wiring to the back and use that to tap for the factory hardwire. Get the full voltage to the hardwire, then let the hardwire do its job.
 

Eloi

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#22
I wonder if you can eliminate voltage drop by placing a capacitor ?
Searched the web but could'nt find a definitive answer ...a lot of responses with
complicated formula .

One hack i was figuring : because a phone line has 4 wires , why not splice 2 for 1 lead this reduces the resisante by half...of course this needs some manipulation.
 

intensityin10cities

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#23
I am in need of one and im having a hard time finding one. From researching here, the old Walmart cords used to work... well they dont anymore. (must have changed vendors) Ive tried a few from different places and am drawing a blank.

Anyone have any links to 25' telephone cords (preferrably black in color if possible) that will power V1?

Thanks!
There is a vendor called Safe N Sound where you can get your V1 cords custom made{Length,choice of color for LED lights,choice of style for a mute button}I had a 12 ft cord made for my R1 that i run in the back of my GMC Sierra that has worked flawlessly.I beleive they are located in Florida somewhere.They have been mentioned a few times in some previous threads here.Cost was about 30$,that was with a mute button and red LED light added.
 
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LouG

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#24
I make my own and just match the wires to the old RJ plugs. I don't know if I'd like to run 25ft though.
 

hammerdown

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#25
It’s always better to go with bigger wiring, especially for DC. 26 AWG just isn’t going to cut it for providing power over long distances. If it were me, I would find a power source near where I want to mount it and use an OEM V1 wire. If I wanted a kill switch in front and a mount in the rear, and it’s too far to use the factory hardwire, I would run standard ~14 AWG wiring to the back and use that to tap for the factory hardwire. Get the full voltage to the hardwire, then let the hardwire do its job.
Yeah I thought of doing it that way too but I actually found a new install spot that's closer so I may not need an extension of any kind... a standard cable should do it
 

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#26
In case anyone else comes across this thread and is still looking, I found this 25' one from Amazon. I'll be purchasing the 14' version for my install, and they also have a 7' version, all selectable from the link below. The configuration of the cord is RJ11 6P4C reversed. It looks like it's a dark-greyish color, but I haven't seen it in person yet.

https://www.amazon.com/Cmple-Phone-...JM3S/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8&th=1
I'd be leery of anything that doesn't list the gauge if you want to go longer than OEM cables. For that kind of length I'd run standard wire (e.g. 18 AWG) then convert the ends to RJ11
All the phone wire stuff is low gauge (e.g. 24-28). V1 cables are on the better end of that range. Where 99.9% of anything else you get is on the worst end of that range.
Even with the V1 cables on the better end of the spectrum (which my guess is 10-12ft possibly only 8ft ?) they are on the hairy edge of being enough.
If you go any longer or any lower gauge than OEM you may run into issues. And sometimes they can be really subtle issues (that you think it's all working but really isn't).

I'd also buy a crimper and make it ONLY as long as you absolutely need.
 
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pipinos1976

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#27
I made a 10m (about 33ft) cable myself. Wanted to test V1 and didn't want to open the package since it was my friend's RD. Took one standard telephone wire I used to connect a device with the outlet, removed one end and reversed the cables into one new RJ11. Worked fine and the voltage was ok even though it was a 28AWG cable. If i had to make a permanent installation I would use 26AWG UTP cable. There are many colors to choose so it blends in the cabin. I would go with standard RJ11 which needs some work to be done (remove the 4 pairs that are not used at least 2in from the end so that it can fit the RJ11 clip). I haven't tested with 24AWG to be sure it can fit inside RJ11. 26AWG is tight inside the clip already.
 

aim4squirrels

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#28
Check monoprice.com and see if they have what you're looking for. They almost always list the gauge of their wiring offers.
 

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#29
You don't need "Phone" cable the whole way if it's JUST for power. Run some 18 AWG twisted pair, then mount a RJ11 socket (or even better a V1 hardwire kit on the end).
Also I would look for a "switched" circuit possibly already in the back that you can tap. Like my SUV has a 12V Cigarette lighter socket that is switched.

Now, if you are trying to keep your Dongle and CD in the front and V1 in the back, then I would go with the suggestions to use CAT5/6 cable. Might be tricky getting an RJ11 connector on it though.

Yes, you can have significant voltage drop at that distance with 26/28AWG phone wire.

When you "route" wire through a car it's amazing how fast the length gets chewed up going around corners etc. Going all the way back in a largish SUV could take 25ft.

I just wired an amp in my boat. It is practically touching the battery. It still to took 4-5ft of cable to get from the battery to the amp (when all nicely dressed).