Ignition Controlled Accessory Fuse Box using Anderson Power Poles - G37

TheJM

#Winning
Advanced User
Premium Member
Joined
May 10, 2015
Messages
3,709
Reaction score
2,841
Location
FL
Hey guys, I've been a bit busy...

I added an ignition controlled accessory fuse box to my car.

Why I did this project:
As the number of CMs in my car grew, I felt the need to wire things in a better way that would allow for easier expansion and would avoid putting any load on the car's existing fuse box and computer.

A little background for y'all:
The computer on the G37 (or at least my G37) is very finicky when after market accessories are connected to it (or any wires that leads to it). I had problems with my dash cam shutting off before it was supposed to as well as other issues. So one major goal of this project was to avoid running any of the accessories through the stock wiring of the car.

Before:
All accessories were wired in at different times and in different ways by a local audio shop in town.

My Smartcord Live Directwire was attached via tapping a wire that went to the cigarette lighter (ignition controlled).
My ALPs were connected by a relay that tapped another ignition wire and a battery wire in the front passenger footwell.
My dash cam stays on after the car turns off. It is controlled by a Power Magic Pro (PMP). This is essentially a timer and voltage sensor that keeps the camera on after the car turns off but turns it off if the battery voltage gets too low. The PMP needs a battery wire, ground wire, and ignition wire. This was controlled by the same relay that the ALPs were controlled by.

Nothing was wrong about the way it was wired but it was all done randomly one at a time, without thought of expansion and it was messing with the cars computer as I described earlier. This is not the audio shops fault at all. After adding this many accessories it was time for an upgrade.

After:
This was my first big DC wiring project so bear with me here. I will try to describe this in words but I am also attaching several pics of the install and a few practical circuit diagrams in case someone else wanted to copy what I did. I used Anderson Powerpoles for all wires and connections (except for the battery connections) and really liked how easy they were to work with. They provide a strong and sure connection that you don’t have to worry about. Also, they cover the end of the wire so there is no bare copper exposed. They also allow wires to be unplugged and replugged with ease (unlike a wire nut). If you use the power poles you will definitely need the TriCrimp tool not every crimping tool will work with these. Although I am somwhat inexperienced in the DC wiring world but would highly recommend them.

Here goes the explanation:
I ran a hot and ground wire from the battery (ring terminal ends) through the firewall and to a Power distribution unit (PD4). I will explain why I used the PD4 a little later on. Then I ran the hot wire from the PD4 through a relay and to the RIGrunner 4008H (fuse box). I ran the ground from the PD4 directly to the RIGrunner 4008H (not through the relay). To trigger the relay (through pins 85 and 86) I put an add-a-fuse on the cigarette lighter circuit in the stock fuse box in the drivers footwell. This worked well for a trigger since this circuit is ignition controlled. Also, since it is only a trigger, no real load will be put on the fuse box or computer. I ran a wire from the add-a-fuse to the relay (through pins 85 and 86) and the grounded it via the PD4.

This made the RIGrunner 4008H ignition controlled. The RIGrunner receives power when the car turns on and gets its power cut off when the car turns off.

Now, to explain why I included the PD4. As I mentioned above, the PMP needs a battery wire, an ignition wire, and a ground wire. I used the PD4 as my source for a battery wire and ran a wire from the PD4 to the PMP. The ignition and ground wires came from the RIGrunner.

Im sorry if this explanation was a little confusing maybe the pictures will add a bit of clarity.

A few other things:
1. I built everything to handle up to 40 amps since thats what the RIGrunner is rated at. The Relay is rated up to 80 amps DC and I used a wire sizing chart to ensure the wires are big enough wires to handle that load without overheating. I know its probably overbuilt but I wanted to build it once and never mess with it again lol. Also, I plan on taking this out of my car whenever I sell it and put it in my new car so I wanted it to last.

2. For the 6 AWG wires I used the 45 amp power poles. All of the copper will not fit in the power pole connector but I talked to one of the engineers at Powerwerx and they said to fit as much copper in there as you can, crimp it, and cut the rest off at the tip. He said this won't be unsafe and won't create large losses.

Circuit Diagram with Explanation

Screen Shot 2016-02-16 at 12.47.44 AM.png

Circuit Diagram (wire sizes)
Screen Shot 2016-02-16 at 12.47.44 AM 2.png

Mounting Location (passenger side)

IMG_0807.jpg

Zoomed in Mounting Location:

IMG_0808.jpg

Finished product:

IMG_0923.jpg

IMG_0926.jpg


Links to items I purchased:

Relay: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001PNMBE4/?tag=rdf0cd-20
PD4: http://www.powerwerx.com/powerpole-power-distribution/4-position-powerpole-power-distribution-block.html
RIGrunner 4008H: http://www.powerwerx.com/powerpole-power-distribution/rigrunner-4008h-horizontal.html
Powerpoles (size depending on wire size): http://www.powerwerx.com/anderson-powerpoles/powerpole-sets/
Wire (6 and 12 AWG): http://www.powerwerx.com/wire-cable/red-black-zip-cord.html http://www.powerwerx.com/wire-cable/red-black-zip-cord.html
TriCrimp: http://www.powerwerx.com/powerpole-accessories/tricrimp-crimping-powerpole-contacts.html
 
Last edited:

notblake

Advanced User
Premium Member
Joined
Apr 5, 2015
Messages
1,062
Reaction score
1,564
Location
GA
Damn you, JM! I've been wanting to do this for months now! But too lazy to do the tear down when everything works fine in my current configuration. Still, this is really the way to go. You have so much flexability for future accessories and installs; I'm so jealous.
 

te37

Learning to Drive...secretly
Advanced User
Premium Member
Joined
Dec 11, 2013
Messages
1,245
Reaction score
883
Location
Where am I not?
It great, love it, very good solution to multiple gadgets. You could still run a CB and scanner and more detectors and a coffee cup warmer ... BUT that wire is way overkill. You could have ran 14 AWG and been perfectly okay for the wattage your pulling. But it will make it nice to add stuff in the future.
 

TXLe

TXCTG
Intermediate User
Premium Member
Joined
Aug 23, 2012
Messages
822
Reaction score
792
Location
NTX
Great project. I am not sure how you are supplying the ground to your PD4 but from your diagram, it appears to be going back to your battery negative terminal. The common best practice with mobile 12V DC is to use the car chassis as the ground plane. If you do ground back to the battery terminal, you must isolate all the electrical equipment on this circuit from the chassis; otherwise, you will introduce a ground loop. Some electrical components are susceptible to ground loops and other not. Audio equipment are readily apparent in the form on a whining noise. ECU and control units not so much but exhibit weird behavior that is hard to diagnosis if you do not know the history of the vehicle electrical system.

To avoid ground loops, I would take all the grounds for that circuit and ground it to one point on the chassis.
 

TheJM

#Winning
Advanced User
Premium Member
Joined
May 10, 2015
Messages
3,709
Reaction score
2,841
Location
FL
Great project. I am not sure how you are supplying the ground to your PD4 but from your diagram, it appears to be going back to your battery negative terminal. The common best practice with mobile 12V DC is to use the car chassis as the ground plane. If you do ground back to the battery terminal, you must isolate all the electrical equipment on this circuit from the chassis; otherwise, you will introduce a ground loop. Some electrical components are susceptible to ground loops and other not. Audio equipment are readily apparent in the form on a whining noise. ECU and control units not so much but exhibit weird behavior that is hard to diagnosis if you do not know the history of the vehicle electrical system.

To avoid ground loops, I would take all the grounds for that circuit and ground it to one point on the chassis.
Thank you so much for your feedback. I appreciate you taking the time to analyze my project!

I believe all ground wires are isolated from the chassis on this circuit. The Ike external ground connection I made was to the negative terminal of the battery. All ground wires run from the respective component (ALP, Redline, etc.) through the RIGrunner, to the PD4 and back to the battery. In other words, I ran a pair of wires from the RIGrunner to each component using red and black the zip cord and plan on doing this for all future add-ons. Does this mean I should be safe from creating a ground loop?

Again, thank you for your feedback, being new at this I hadn't heard of this issue before and want to make sure I avoid it.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Last edited:

TXLe

TXCTG
Intermediate User
Premium Member
Joined
Aug 23, 2012
Messages
822
Reaction score
792
Location
NTX
Yes. When you supply an alternate path energy to the battery with the negative cable from RIGrunner to the PD4 to the battery, you introduce an alternate path for power to flow vs. the flow path through the chassis. The best analogy I can use is water. So in this case, the chassis is your main pipe for water (power). You now supply another source of water through the negative cable back to your battery but the pressure, in this case measured as voltage, is different due to different characteristics between the two pipes. Now you have a difference in pressure between your devices - water (power) will not flow uniformly to all the receiving devices. Some will have more and some will have less pressure (voltage) depending where they are in the circuit. This variation in voltage wreak havoc in electrical circuit since they cannot reference on the same if not similar voltage. You want all your equipment to have the same reference ground plane which is ideally but in practice, you want to make as similar as possible. So doing it as you did might not cause any problem, but more likely that not, it will. Best practice is to use the chassis as all mobile installer do.
 

protias

Retired CM enthusiast / Train Horn Advocate
Advanced User
Premium Member
Joined
Oct 29, 2010
Messages
24,460
Reaction score
12,392
Location
WI
I wanted to do this to my last car ~1 year ago when I saw another person do it. I wish I had the know how on how to do all this.
 

edconline

PSL++
Advanced User
Joined
Apr 16, 2014
Messages
1,197
Reaction score
1,546
Location
Edmonton
Looks great! I did a very similar setup on my 370Z for my CM, I used a glass fuse holder distr block however and just made a cover for it:

CM Fuse Block 2.JPG

CM Fuse Block 1.JPG

You can't beat the convenience of having a multiple circuit fuse block for CM's, also I was mid-audio build in the car when I installed it so the entire thing was torn down already. The other super convenient thing that is easy to do with this type of setup is I installed a manual on/off switch for the entire block. So I can also manually kill all my CM at once. I didn't see if you added that functionality but you could do so easily if not and you never know when it will come in handy, just an idea.
Lol it's funny that the only other person I've seen post this type of setup has essentially the same car. Again, nice work!
 

TheJM

#Winning
Advanced User
Premium Member
Joined
May 10, 2015
Messages
3,709
Reaction score
2,841
Location
FL
Yes. When you supply an alternate path energy to the battery with the negative cable from RIGrunner to the PD4 to the battery, you introduce an alternate path for power to flow vs. the flow path through the chassis. The best analogy I can use is water. So in this case, the chassis is your main pipe for water (power). You now supply another source of water through the negative cable back to your battery but the pressure, in this case measured as voltage, is different due to different characteristics between the two pipes. Now you have a difference in pressure between your devices - water (power) will not flow uniformly to all the receiving devices. Some will have more and some will have less pressure (voltage) depending where they are in the circuit. This variation in voltage wreak havoc in electrical circuit since they cannot reference on the same if not similar voltage. You want all your equipment to have the same reference ground plane which is ideally but in practice, you want to make as similar as possible. So doing it as you did might not cause any problem, but more likely that not, it will. Best practice is to use the chassis as all mobile installer do.

Thanks for the advice. I moved the ground connection from the negative battery terminal to a bolt on the chassis.
 

darkpenguin

DSC off
Advanced User
Premium Member
Joined
Jan 24, 2012
Messages
1,471
Reaction score
568
Location
WI
Solid setup. I should've gone with the rigrunner setup years ago, and I use powerpoles on anything and everything. Still hard to stomach the price tag for what amounts to a bunch of powerpoles on a circuit board with fuse holders, but I seem to recall them all being $100+ several years ago, so it's a bit more reasonable now.

One thing I can't recommend enough though is the crimper. I soldered them for years, crimping turns out so much better, not to mention faster.

Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk
 

Doppler

Advanced User
Premium Member
Joined
Apr 2, 2014
Messages
1,641
Reaction score
1,640
Makes life so much easier you will do it on every car you own from here on out. I have a similar setup, just no real decent photos of it.

Start the car it all comes on shut off it all goes quiet, all the wires are hidden. It's as close as you can get to a car that comes with CMs built in from the factory.
 

KASHER1979

RDForum Owner
Administrator
Advanced User
Lifetime Premium Member
Joined
Apr 15, 2013
Messages
14,728
Reaction score
9,290
Hey this stuff looks awesome.
[MENTION=7078]edconline[/MENTION] was such a big help when I was thinking of doing this. I almost did. Wish I had. I may do it yet.

Thanks guys for sharing.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

kpatz

35.5, 35.5, and more 35.5
Advanced User
Premium Member
Joined
May 15, 2011
Messages
9,391
Reaction score
8,035
Location
York, SC
Nice work! I've had ideas like this for CM installs in my car, but I never pursued it. I just use an add-a-fuse on the lighter fuse and then I used a circuit I built that delays the power-up of the CMs until about 3 seconds after the engine starts. That might be something you could do to protect your CMs from surges and ensure a clean startup of everything. You can just put the delay circuit between the switched fuse and the relay.

Since you'll never need 40 amps for CMs, you could have used thinner wire, whatever gauge would have fit into the crimp terminals. That's cleaner than cutting off the excess copper, and should be more than enough for a CM install where you're probably drawing 2-3 amps max when everything is on and the jammer is jamming/RDs alerting.
 

ncoffi

Learning to Fly
Beginner User
Joined
Sep 23, 2015
Messages
97
Reaction score
53
Location
SLC, Utah / New England
Great job innovating! I'll be rethinking some of my future plans!
 

wrxsti15

Advanced User
Premium Member
Joined
Nov 6, 2015
Messages
2,302
Reaction score
1,728
Location
Canada
I did not see this thread before... It looks great... I want to add something to delay power to ALP, Dash Camera, and HU...
I hate the fact that each time I turn key it turn on everything then while starting it lose power on them... and then power come back up... It is shock for devices that is for sure...
 

edconline

PSL++
Advanced User
Joined
Apr 16, 2014
Messages
1,197
Reaction score
1,546
Location
Edmonton
I did not see this thread before... It looks great... I want to add something to delay power to ALP, Dash Camera, and HU...
I hate the fact that each time I turn key it turn on everything then while starting it lose power on them... and then power come back up... It is shock for devices that is for sure...
My fuse board I posted back further in this thread was initially on a relay with 15 second delay, to accomplish exactly what you're talking about. Worked great.

However, I found for quick trips around town or just moving the car, etc, I didn't want the CM powering up at all, so I went to a manual toggle switch which provides power to the board.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

wrxsti15

Advanced User
Premium Member
Joined
Nov 6, 2015
Messages
2,302
Reaction score
1,728
Location
Canada
My fuse board I posted back further in this thread was initially on a relay with 15 second delay, to accomplish exactly what you're talking about. Worked great.
However, I found for quick trips around town or just moving the car, etc, I didn't want the CM powering up at all, so I went to a manual toggle switch which provides power to the board.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Thank you Sir... My brother is coming to visit, so will make him busy... :p
 

TheJM

#Winning
Advanced User
Premium Member
Joined
May 10, 2015
Messages
3,709
Reaction score
2,841
Location
FL
My fuse board I posted back further in this thread was initially on a relay with 15 second delay, to accomplish exactly what you're talking about. Worked great.

However, I found for quick trips around town or just moving the car, etc, I didn't want the CM powering up at all, so I went to a manual toggle switch which provides power to the board.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
How did you include a delay with the relay? What did you use for the trigger wire?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

edconline

PSL++
Advanced User
Joined
Apr 16, 2014
Messages
1,197
Reaction score
1,546
Location
Edmonton
How did you include a delay with the relay? What did you use for the trigger wire?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I bought a relay on eBay that had a delay built in. So once the ACC power from the car triggered the relay, the 15 second delay would kick in before powering the circuit.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

Discord Server

Latest threads

Latest posts

Forum statistics

Threads
78,466
Messages
1,194,256
Members
19,998
Latest member
bigcat
Top