Detailed Install Process for Stinger VIP in 2014 Porsche 911 Turbo S (JPG Heavy)

draculabus

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So I mentioned that I'd post about my install when I had time to write it up. It took a little longer than I hoped, but I finally got a little time and figured I'd document the install to give back a little after lurking for so long.

Here's the car which the install was performed on:

IMG_1146-web.jpg



While installing the VIP I also installed a hardwired Escort Live box, a toggle switch to be able to hard power off the VIP to address the inability to rapidly manually kill it if needed, and a Uniden BCD436HP scanner with GPS. I installed the Escort Live to be able to side by side test a Redline with Live against the VIP.

The front and rear sensors are temporarily mounted for testing while I spend some time fabricating mounting brackets. I’ll post updated photos in the future once I’ve got the brackets made and installed. I also plan to install mesh in front of all the radiators while installing the permanent mounts which should result in a more stealth install in addition to protecting the radiators. I’m pointing all of this out up front to hopefully avoid comments about how low the center front sensor is, or how the rear sensors don’t look straight and level (they actually are, the photos are distorted due to the camera lens and distance from the vehicle). The front center sensors cannot be mounted up high without a bracket as there is no way to make them level (ask me how I know).

Also note that I had an additional goal in this project of disabling the sound symposer which ended up offering a path into the cabin for the rear sensor cables. If you do not want to disable the symposer, you will likely need to create an opening into the cabin, which is outside the scope of this write-up; though it would not be difficult.

If you have never disassembled a Porsche, allow two full days to do this install by yourself because it will take a while for you figure things out. If you’ve had bumper covers off and pulled some interior panels before, you can probably do this install in a single long day. This was my first major disassembly of a Turbo. It took me two days to complete the install due to having to research panel removal and the lack of a technical manual for the car.

If you’re handy with tools, I would not hesitate to do this install as a DIY. Here’s why I say this. I’ve paid to have installs done before, and I’ve done installs myself (a few Stir and LI installs, and another VIP in a Hummer H2). Invariably, any install that I’ve had done by someone else I’ve been unhappy with, and I’ve had to go back and fix things to make them the way I want them (even when I spelled things out for the installer they still don’t do it right). A car is just an assembly of parts. It’s nothing to be scarred of. Take your time and do your research, and you’ll be fine.

Tools and Additional Parts I Used:

Mini ratchet with extension and #25 Torx bit
Panel removal tools (I used OTC 6642 11 Piece Trim Tool Kit found on Amazon).
Razor blade
Optional – Dremel tool for cutting shaping plastic parts (e.g. installing Escort Live box).
Optional – Unibit drill bit for cutting hole for switch and USB extension cable.
Depending on how you do your wiring, you may want a soldering Iron, solder, heat shrink tubing, and electrical connectors. I did not cut any Porsche wiring during the install, I used two fuse taps (shown in a photo inline so you can grab the part number off the photo) and ran everything off of those taps.

High quality duct tape
3m electrical tape
3m VHB tape
Zip-ties and zip-tie adhesive mounts
Two-way mini level to level the sensors
Plastic wire covering or braided wire covering. I used 3/8 and ½ plastic. You’ll have to experiment if using braiding.
Optional – Dynamat if you plan to disconnect the sound symposer and use that port as the entry into the rear of the cabin as I did.
Optional - PAC USBCBL 6-Feet USB Cable with Mounting Bracket which I used to route the USB cable for updates and logging into the glove box.

If you enter the cabin the way I did, you will want a Napa generic master cylinder gasket to replace the plastic entry cover (cut a small slit to allow the wires through and then use liquid electrical tape to seal the slit). Photo of the gasket is below so you can get the part number off it.


NOTE: having done this once now, if you have jack stands and the tools required to remove your wheels, I would highly recommend removing the wheels. I personally think the +/- 30 minutes of wheel removal would make the removal of the bumper covers much easier and less stressful. I plan to do it that way the next time I pull the covers off.


FRONT SENSOR INSTALL

Step 1: (Optional) Prep the “laser sensors” by assembling RX and TX sensor into pairs, installing cable covering, and taping off ends. I used coil covering. If I was doing it again, I might use braided sleeve.

20141221-Porsche-Stinger-Install-001-Sensor-Prep.jpg


Step 2:
Remove the headlights, trunk trim, battery compartment cover, and front bumper.
http://www.6speedonline.com/forums/991/336929-diy-2014-991-front-bumper-cover-removal.html
http://www.6speedonline.com/forums/991/336931-diy-2014-991-front-bumper-cover-removal-part-2-a.html

NOTE: The process is a little different with the Turbo, but mostly accurate.

NOTE: the air hose for the air dam is a standard compression fitting like those used in an air-ride seat. It is located on the center left side of the lower air dam. You need to reach under the bumper while disassembling, and compress the end of the compression fitting to release the hose (hold the fitting and squeeze the end in while simultaneously pulling on the hose and the hose will slide out). During reassembly, just push the hose into the fitting and it will automatically lock in.
Once you have the bumper skin off, remove the foam bumper backing (it pulls off). In the center rear of the foam, trace the outline of the HD antenna, and using a razor blade, carve out a recess for the HD antenna to sit in. Once you have carved out the recess, apply a strip of duct tape to the HD antenna and tape it to the aluminum bumper behind the foam and test fit the foam to ensure that you placed it correctly and that the foam will reinstall without issue. Sorry I forgot to get a photo of this part. I outlined in red the area where I mounted the HD antenna.
Next, install the laser sensors. Leave sufficient length to be able to route them into the bumper when you remount the bumper cover. You can see how I did it in the photo below. Note how much slack I left and it will give you a decent idea of how much to leave.

Now, route the cables along the top of the aluminum bumper and through the driver’s side entry point on the inner part of the fender as shown in the photo. Continue routing it up into the battery bay as shown in the next photo.

20141221-Porsche-Stinger-Install-010-Front-Sensors.jpg


You will note the red circle in the photo below. That is the entry point that I used to get into the cabin. It has a plastic port cover. I found that the generic NAPA master cylinder gasket fit the opening perfectly so I ran the wires through that.

Once all of the individual cables were run up to the battery bay, I neatened them up by separating the RX and TX leads into 1/2” cable cover for the runs to the controller boxes. I found that this resulted in a cleaner and easier install.

20141221-Porsche-Stinger-Install-013-Box-Location-Two.jpg


Next, layout the boxes, apply 3M tape, and connect the USB cables.

20141221-Porsche-Stinger-Install-006-Box-Prep.jpg


In the prior photo, you can see them mounted. I found that mounting the laser boxes on the front side of the battery, and the HD box on the left top of the battery yielded a clean install and allowed the battery compartment cover to be reinstalled would any issues.

I mounted the GPS antenna to the right of the yellow tab on the prior photo. When I change out the mounts, I may move it to the front bumper area. There is a nice flat spot on the driver side of the aluminum bumper where all the cables run into the fender that I think will yield a better result.

Now that all the cables have been run into the battery compartment, take the GPS cable, and the USB cable that connects to the CPU, and push them through the gasket and install the gasket and cables into the opening for the cabin.
Reassemble the front end.

REAR TO FRONT CPU CABLE INSTALL

This requires routing a cable from the driver’s front to the drivers rear of the interior. I found that it was easiest to go up the A-pillar, across the headliner, and down next to the rear glass. To accomplish this you must pull the small plastic side trim that connects the fuse panel cover, the fuse panel cover, the A-Pillar cover, the seatbelt cover, and the rear trim.

I forgot to get photos of the fuse panel cover removal. It’s a PITA. If you are not VERY careful, you will snap one of the plastic centering rods (ask me how I know). At any rate, I found that the easiest way to get this all apart is to first pull back the weather seal.

20141221-Porsche-Stinger-Install-020-Door-Trim.jpg


Next, using a plastic pry tool, insert the flat end in the area in the red circle and pop it straight toward you. Once that is out, pull the trim down and it will slide out of the retaining strip on the part above it.

Next, remove the fuse box cover.

Next, using a “U” shaped pry tool that will fit behind the retaining clip as shown in the photo below (yeah, I know, it’s a photo of the other door; well I forgot to shoot it, but this was such a pain in the a** to figure out the proper process without a technical manual, I shot it when I had the other side apart).

20141221-Porsche-Stinger-Install-0195.jpg


If you do not use the pry tool to get behind the clip, you will pull the panel out but leave the spring clip stuck in the body as shown below. If you do this, you will be hating life since they are a bitch to get out.

20141221-Porsche-Stinger-Install-016a-Door-Trim.jpg


Once you pop that upper part of the panel out, gently reach under to the back of the panel. It is retained by to Velcro clips on pins (I really need to get a photo of this but I keep forgetting). You should be able to gently pull the back away from the Velcro, and then pull the entire panel toward you (along the same plane that you used when prying out the upper retaining clip. Be very gentle but firm. The lower part of the panel has a plastic centering pin (that will snap right off if you’re not careful) and a plastic retaining clip (which is what you need to get released to get the panel out). I’m sure someone out there has a better method for this.

Now remove the A-pillar. I did not need any tools for this, but you could use a pry tool if needed. There are two spring retaining clips, a centering pin, and a plastic push-in retainer. You remove the cover starting at the top by pulling straight away from the pillar and working your way down until the second spring clip releases. Once the second clip releases, slide the cover up and out. (I’ll try to get a few photos of this next time I have it out).

Now start on the seatbelt cover by prying it straight out from the top.

20141221-Porsche-Stinger-Install-021-Seatbelt-Trim-Cover.jpg


Do not pry from the bottom as there are solid mounts there as shown in the next photo.

20141221-Porsche-Stinger-Install-022-Seatbelt-Trim-Cover.jpg


Unfortunately, to feed the cable to the back, you need to remove the main cover. I have still not figured out how to remove that cover correctly. There is one oddly shaped spring clip that refuses to release and pulls out of the plastic and remains stuck in the body.

20141221-Porsche-Stinger-Install-023-Seatbelt-Trim-Cover.jpg


I’ve had to fish that out, straighten it, and reinstall it in the panel. Note the photo below.

20141221-Porsche-Stinger-Install-024-Seatbelt-Trim-Cover.jpg


Now head to the back and remove the rear trim panel under the back window. There’s another post out there that shows it being pulled out from the side and levering toward the driver’s side. Do not do that or you’ll break off a plastic retainer. This panel is held on with spring clips. All you need to do is pull it straight toward you and it will release. Below is a photo of the panel so you can see where all the clips are located.

20141221-Porsche-Stinger-Install-0123.jpg


Now that all the panels are out, go ahead and pull the cable from the front to the back. Leave sufficient length in the front to get the end of the cable into the lower front of the center console where you will be mounting the CPU later.
You can put all the panels back on except for the rear trim panel.
REAR SENSOR INSTALL

Remove the fan assembly (forgot a photo), but it’s covered here: http://rennlist.com/forums/991/801074-money2536-s-white-991-c2s-journal-11.html
Remove spoiler (multiple photos below).

20141221-Porsche-Stinger-Install-027a-Engine-Bay.jpg


20141221-Porsche-Stinger-Install-027b-Wing.jpg


20141221-Porsche-Stinger-Install-028-Engine-Bay.jpg


20141221-Porsche-Stinger-Install-029-Wing.jpg


Remove the bolt circled in red below (both sides) and then lift off the wing.

20141221-Porsche-Stinger-Install-030-Wing.jpg


Now gently insert a pry tool and the panel will slide forward so it can be removed. Do not pry up.

20141221-Porsche-Stinger-Install-034-Wing.jpg


20141221-Porsche-Stinger-Install-036-Wing.jpg


Remove the rear tail lights.

20141221-Porsche-Stinger-Install-040-Tail-Lights.jpg


20141221-Porsche-Stinger-Install-042-Tail-Lights.jpg


Now remove all the torx screws holding the bumper cover. If I remember correctly there are three in each wheel well, two under the cover behind each wheel facing up, two under the center, and four on top.

Disconnect the wire harnesses.

20141221-Porsche-Stinger-Install-044.jpg


Set the cover down.

Now install the HD antenna and laser sensors. Tape the antenna to the bumper as shown. Route the lasers through the tow bolt hole (yes there is enough room without interfering with using the tow bolt).

20141221-Porsche-Stinger-Install-047-Rear-Sensors.jpg


20141221-Porsche-Stinger-Install-045-Rear-Sensors.jpg


Now disconnect the sound symposer tube and route the cables through the hole into the cabin. A second person makes this a whole lot easier….

20141221-Porsche-Stinger-Install-048-Rear-Sensors.jpg


20141221-Porsche-Stinger-Install-049-Rear-Sensors.jpg


As you can see in the above photo, I installed some Dynamat while I had things apart. Once all the cables are into the cabin, you can use more Dymamat to seal the entry hole.

20141221-Porsche-Stinger-Install-050-Rear-Sensors.jpg


While you are inside the car, you can wire up the boxes, install them, and put on the rear trim panel.

20141221-Porsche-Stinger-Install-051-Rear-Boxes.jpg


20141221-Porsche-Stinger-Install-053-Rear-Sensors.jpg


I used some spare foam to fill the areas in the corners.

Now, you can reassemble the bumper, lights, and spoiler. I recommend using a zip-tie to stabilize the laser cables on the rear skin.

20141221-Porsche-Stinger-Install-0127.jpg


Install the Screen

I chose to fabricate a mount and mount the screen next to the headlight switch. It’s easy to see and not in the way of anything (a challenge in this car…).

20141221-Porsche-Stinger-Install-0152.jpg


20141221-Porsche-Stinger-Install-0154.jpg


I coated it with spray can bed liner. It resembles most of the manufactured phone mounts.

20141221-Porsche-Stinger-Install-0161.jpg


Remove the trim cover for the headlight and side cover (they pop off)

20141221-Porsche-Stinger-Install-0168.jpg


Apply some 3M VHB tape.

20141221-Porsche-Stinger-Install-0169.jpg


Apply some 3M VHB to the screen mount and put the side cover on.

20141221-Porsche-Stinger-Install-0171.jpg


Route the cable over to the center console.

Install the Speaker

The best location I found was above the driver’s foot rest. I used 3M VHB tape to mount it without the included bracket.

20141221-Porsche-Stinger-Install-0052.jpg


Install the CPU

Now it’s time to hook everything up.

Remove Center Console Trim

You need to remove the upper center console trim, both sides, and the side trim near the gas pedal and passenger’s left foot.

Follow the steps in these DIYs:
http://www.6speedonline.com/forums/991/328670-center-console-trim-removal-jpg-heavy.html#post4041690

NOTE: if you have an aluminum trim instead of plastic, it’s a LOT harder to get out, but it IS the process above.

http://www.6speedonline.com/forums/991/345801-991-pcm-3-1-removal-part-1-a.html

http://www.6speedonline.com/forums/991/345803-991-pcm-3-1-removal-part-2-a.html#post4185737

After following these steps, you should have the center console trim and side panels off.

Next, look for a single torx bolt directly above the lower right red arrow in the first photo in the PCM-3-1-removal-part2 post above. Remove that bolt. Now, slide the trim part directly forward toward the front of the car. It is retained in two slots. It will slide out with some effort. (I have to remember to get some photos next time I have this out).

There is barely enough room for the CPU under the AC duct behind the center console. As nice as it would be to get it into the space under the PCM, there is not enough room once the USB cables and HDMI get connected since the stick out so far. It would be so much better if they used a low profile flexible mount for the USB and HDMI so that the unit can be installed in tighter spaces. Getting this box into that space was probably the most frustrating part of the install.

I highly recommend using a 90 degree HDMI adapter for connecting the monitor. Using the straight out cable is so tight that you really risk damaging the connector (I’ve had my unit in and out 4-5 times to try different things and the connector is very much the worse for wear). I have one on order and will install that the next time I have the panel off. This is what I ordered from Amazon: Cable Matters 2 Pack, 90 Degree HDMI Male to Female Adapter.

If you are using a scanner and want to share the VIP speaker with it, use something like the Cable Showcase 6-Inch 2 x 3.5mm Stereo Male/3.5mm Stereo Female Cable (30S1-35260) found on Amazon.
Wiring up is straight forward. See the photo below. You’ll install a jumper on two fuses, one for constant power and a second for switched power. If you want to install the kill switch like I did, you’ll run the switched power to the switch and then to the CPU.

20141221-Porsche-Stinger-Install-0214.jpg


20141221-Porsche-Stinger-Install-0181.jpg


If you are installing an Escort Live box, they only fit in the change tray (won’t work on the ashtray configuration). I used Sugru for the install.

NOTE: with the switched fuse I’m using, I have found that the car’s ECO mode will shut off the Escort box when the car restarts. It does not do that with the VIP. I’m researching a solution to this.

20141221-Porsche-Stinger-Install-0182.jpg


20141221-Porsche-Stinger-Install-0183.jpg


20141221-Porsche-Stinger-Install-0184.jpg


If you have the smoker package. You can install the switch like this (I will be swapping for this once I’m done testing the Redline against the.

20141221-Porsche-Stinger-Install-0212.jpg


20141221-Porsche-Stinger-Install-0213.jpg


Note: I could not find any decent fully round switches, so I went with a square one. I had to shave down the corners a bit to get it to fit. I filled the gaps and stabilized the base with Sugru (finally available from Amazon and Radio Shack).

In the event that you are installing a scanner, you’ll want an external antenna and the GPS kit for that. I am using a SpectrumForce Mini Window Antenna UHF/800 with SMA purchased from Scanner Master $25.50 including shipping). Depending on the build of your car, there may be room in the compartment behind the mirror for both antennas as there was on mine. To remove the cover, pull straight out (not to the side). There are two compression clips that hold each side in. You could also use this location for the VIP GPS antenna. I did not because of the other antennas I needed to mount and the fact that the VIP cable was much longer than the cable for the scanner GPS antenna.

20141221-Porsche-Stinger-Install-0199.jpg


Another optional step is installing a USB extension cable with panel mount in the glove box. I did this to give a more finished result for accessing the USB drive for updates and logging.

I have not yet removed the glove box to route the cable the way I want. As a temporary measure it runs out the rear side of the box (invisible). This is not a good permanent solution as it slightly binds up the open/close action on the door. I finally got the shop manual pages for removal of the glove box, so I’ll try to get that done with some photos in the next week or two. To remove the USB/Power/Aux cover in the glove box, use a pry tool on the bottom and it pops out. See the photos below to understand where the connection tabs are.

20141221-Porsche-Stinger-Install-0174.jpg


20141221-Porsche-Stinger-Install-0175.jpg



Be cautious when cutting the hole for the USB mount as you do not want to be blocked by the power port. I cut my entry point on the side so that it would not be visible when opening the box. If I had it to do again, I would probably put the hole in the front.

20141221-Porsche-Stinger-Install-0215.jpg



Final Result

20141221-Porsche-Stinger-Install-0211.jpg


20141221-Porsche-Stinger-Install-0190.jpg


20141221-Porsche-Stinger-Install-0208.jpg


20141221-Porsche-Stinger-Install-0209.jpg


Well, that’s all I can think of at the moment. I’ll update with additional photos as I get the mesh and laser brackets installed (hopefully over the next two weeks).

I’ve tested the laser system with PL3 and LTI 20/20 and get JTG. If anyone in South FL has some VPR guns and wants to try them out on the install, let me know.

I'll post a detailed review on the system as soon as I can get some time to write it up.

Hope this helps give a little better insight into what's involved in the installation of the system for those who are contemplating DIY.
 

MnBadger

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Great install! How is driving at night with all those screens? Can you get a universal dim switch? :) Really nice job on the custom mount for the VIP screen.

The one thing that caught my eye that may or may not be an issue is your antenna mount. When I got mine installed I was warned many times that there has to be at least 1/2 inch clearance behind the antenna for the built in heat sink. Since you only have a portion of the back resting against the metal surface it may not be an issue.
 
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draculabus

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Thanks both of you. I appreciate it.

The screens actually aren't that bad. The VIP one is actually the most irritating because the AUTO setting doesn't actually do anything from what I can see, and you can't dim it enough. The phone auto-dims to a really acceptable level, and the scanners default is screen backlight off. For the VIP, I have to manually set it to max during the day and minimum at night. I'm putting together a bug/feature request list to send over to them. This will be on the list for sure.

I spoke with them about the HD antennas prior to installing to confirm that my thoughts were correct (mounting to aluminum would effectively enlarge the heat-sync). They confirmed it should not be an issue. So far, no problems.

EDIT: Forgot to reply to the have you been hit with LIDAR part. Not yet.
 
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alloy00

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That is just awesome. Thanks to all who are sharing their VIP installs. Can't wait to see this head-to-head tested against Redline et al.
 

protias

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Are your front heads tilted out?
 

Vortex

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Amazing job documenting and sharing the install! Sweet car too. :)

I've got my phone in the same place as yours. With the 436 and the phone, does it get in the way of the passenger's leg at all? I'm looking for a mounting solution there that doesn't do that. :)
 

draculabus

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No. They're pointed straight down the road and dead level. As I pointed out at the start of the thread, it's the camera lens distorting things. Both the front and rear heads are level and true. This is a VERY temporary mount using 3M VHB. I'm in the process of fabricating mounts to install when I install the mesh. At that point the front sensors will be fully stealth and up a bit higher.
 

alloy00

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draculabus

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Amazing job documenting and sharing the install! Sweet car too.
smile.png


I've got my phone in the same place as yours. With the 436 and the phone, does it get in the way of the passenger's leg at all? I'm looking for a mounting solution there that doesn't do that.
smile.png

Thanks :)

I originally bought that Kuda mount to use as phone mount base, but it was so far back that I found it unusable. Then I decided to add the scanner. It's perfect for that. I've had two passengers in the car and I asked both if it bothered them in that location. Both passengers said it didn't touch them and they didn't even notice it until i asked. Score.

Was just checking to see if dead-ahead is what they recommend (which we would all think but ya never know)... and, yup, supposed to be at 90* from everything:
https://www.stingerradarusa.com/image/data/manuals/Stinger LASER Install Manual_US_V3.1_2015.pdf

Hard to tell if they're straight or not ion a car with so many nice curves!
Yeah, it was actually a bit of a pain to get them pointed straight with all the curves. :)

Trying to get that set of center sensors level when mounted up high wasted at least two hours of my life, at which point I gave up, mounted low, and took measurements for building a mounting bracket.
 
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edconline

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Wow. Phenomenal write up, installation and car!
 

hiddencam

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Wow, awesome! Epic. Love the change tray mod for the Escort Live box! Sugru air curing rubber ... wow...MUST use! haha.

Thanks for paying it forward mate! :thumbsup:
 

draculabus

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Wow, awesome! Epic. Love the change tray mod for the Escort Live box! Sugru air curing rubber ... wow...MUST use! haha.

Thanks for paying it forward mate! :thumbsup:


I came across that Sugru stuff about a year ago when they were only selling manufacturer direct. Awesome stuff. Really useful for things like this.
 

MnBadger

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Thanks both of you. I appreciate it.

The screens actually aren't that bad. The VIP one is actually the most irritating because the AUTO setting doesn't actually do anything from what I can see, and you can't dim it enough. The phone auto-dims to a really acceptable level, and the scanners default is screen backlight off. For the VIP, I have to manually set it to max during the day and minimum at night.

EDIT: Forgot to reply to the have you been hit with LIDAR part. Not yet.
Totally agree. Auto doesn't do anything for me either. The min at night is still too bright IMO. Hopefully will get fixed in an update soon.
 

rjk

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I've tried the sugru, it's pretty nice. It sucks a bit because you have to use it up as soon as you open the package, it's only available in 2 sizes (tiny and huge), and it expires after a year. But other than that, it seems to work.

---------- Post added at 12:29 PM ---------- Previous post was at 12:28 PM ----------

BTW, epic write up and install. Top notch workmanship.
 

Benji

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Incredible! This is worthy of being one of the best install threads on here! Thank you for taking the excruciating amount of time it must taken to compile that post!
 

draculabus

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Thanks for the kind words. The worst part of documenting it was figuring out how to get photos stored on OneDrive to work on the forum. :)
 

rjk

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Thanks for the kind words. The worst part of documenting it was figuring out how to get photos stored on OneDrive to work on the forum. :)
If you want to, you could also upload them to the forum storage using the "Manage Attachments" button when you edit the post. This forum has a very generous allowance for uploads - enough for lots and lots of pictures or video.
 

draculabus

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I tried that but could not figure out how to get the images to present inline. They would only show up stacked on the bottom. Probably just me doing something wrong.
 

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