V1C dongle and hardwire

Event3Horizon

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Forgive me if there's a thread about this, but is there a way to use the V1C dongle without using the V1 cig adapter plug? I have my V1 hardwired to my onstar RVM up high. I'm considering getting new ESP V1 with V1C. Just trying to plan it out.
 

Vortex

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You'll probably want to look into Savvy or the direct-wire power adapter. Either one will allow you to connect both the V1 and V1C simultaneously. I don't think there's a way to do it with a RVM hardwire.
 

comno6

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I have mine connected with Savvy as well. You can always get a splitter though.

You'll probably want to look into Savvy or the direct-wire power adapter. Either one will allow you to connect both the V1 and V1C simultaneously. I don't think there's a way to do it with a RVM hardwire.
 

Event3Horizon

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I was thinking if it's possible to connect direct wire adapter to my onstar rvm, then just have short cord that plugs into the v1 and then the v1c dongle to it. I'm using the invisicord now directly hooked up V1 to switched rvm which is awesome. There should be way to do this.

I can probably cut the rj11 connector on the invisicord and wire it to the direct wire adapter that has the main power cord sticking out of it like in this pic.

IMG_0779.jpg
 

flank

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Fuse Taps. I have two empty slots in my fuse panel for heated seats since I don't have heated seats. I used one for the radar.

__KGrHqV__k8E4ltn_OygBOTvO_7oPg__48_1.JPG

fuse_tap_1.jpg
 

beep

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I have mine connected with Savvy as well. You can always get a splitter though.
Have you ever had car battery issues with the Savvy and Connection? I purchased both a couple of weeks ago and just set them up. Today my car battery was completely dead (car was sitting for a few days, but that is normal). I checked and the bloe light was still blinking on the connection so I unplugged savvy and removed them both. Car is less than a year old. I know the V1 would shut down after turning off car (but I remove V1 before leaving car anyway) but it looks like the connection bluetooth kept sending signals and finally drained battery. I will check with Valentine but I was just curious if you have had or have heard of battery drain issues with connection and savvy (I searched but couldn't find anything).

Thanks.
 

Event3Horizon

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Fuse Taps. I have two empty slots in my fuse panel for heated seats since I don't have heated seats. I used one for the radar.

View attachment 17989

View attachment 17990
Fuse taps but... I can't just expect to power up 12v directly to the V1 dongle and expect the V1 to communicate with it right? It communicates with the V1 through that accessory from V1 correct?
 

Jag42

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I use Savvy also
 

Q ship

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Was there ever a definitive resolution on the best way to hook up the V1 C without Savvy or using the cig lighter plug connection ? I just got a V!C to go with my V1 thats hardwired and am also looking for the best way to have both connected and working properly without exposing more of the V1C dongle. My V1 is mounted high near the RVM and is hardwired down near the drivers left knee. Is there a range that the V1 and V1C can be apart and still work properly? If the V1C is connected close to the fuse box and the V1 is mounted on the passenger side visor at the farthest is there any delay or connection issues? If that is the case I can use the factory hardwire connector and put the V1C near it and leave the V1 near the top of the windshield on the passenger side. I appreciate any thoughts.
 

Q ship

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Thanks that clears it up. I can't wait to get it installed and start using YAV1.
 

K2theFEA

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This is what I did. I also have the V1 hardwired to my rear-view mirror. I used a splitter and had to customize the RJ11 cable to power up the dongle.

View attachment 19071
Where did you find the black splitter? How did you customize the RJ11 to power the dongle? Looks good.
 

croup

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This is what I did. I also have the V1 hardwired to my rear-view mirror. I used a splitter and had to customize the RJ11 cable to power up the dongle.

View attachment 19071
Sweet install...No powered mirror option for me....Had to use the basic
RedBar_division.gif
00030.gif

Direct-Wire Power Adapter Kit
Direct-Wire Power Adapter Kit
Item 00030

Price: $19.00
Quantity:​
Direct-wire power adapter (Item 20305), Straight Power Cord (Item 20311), Fuse (Item 20321), Wiring Harness Connector (Item 20310) and Self-Stick Interlocking Fasteners (Item 20301) together at a reduced price.
RedBar_division.gif


Tucked the dongle under the dash near the fuse box and it made for a very clean install....Not one problem with connecting..
 

urvi

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This is what I did. I also have the V1 hardwired to my rear-view mirror. I used a splitter and had to customize the RJ11 cable to power up the dongle.
I have tried the same thing with no luck. V1 powers up with just the mirror tap wire. After adding splitter and dongle with factory RJ11 dongle powers up just fine. However V1 with regular old RJ11 will not power up. It also wont power up with the dongles RJ11. An ideas?

Some more testing shows that both the factory cable and the regular RJ11 I purchased power the bluetooth dongle with the splitter in place.

Edit: Problem solved. The mod that Maccini said he made was to cut and crip on a new connector (on the V1 cable) upside down. This creates a reverse rj11 cable.
 
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Maccini

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Hi, yes, that is correct. I cut and crimped a new connector or upside down. I haven't been online for a while. My iPhone repair business and full time work takes up all my free time.

---------- Post added at 08:55 PM ---------- Previous post was at 08:53 PM ----------

I painted it with flat black krylon.
 

mswlogo

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This is what I did. I also have the V1 hardwired to my rear-view mirror. I used a splitter and had to customize the RJ11 cable to power up the dongle.

View attachment 19071
Ah this is exactly what I was asking in my thread I created a little while back https://www.rdforum.org/showthread.php?t=51104
[MENTION=1658]Maccini[/MENTION] So just to be crystal clear, a standard Splitter and flip the crimp on the 6" cable on one end going to Dongle. Done. Paint optional.

Thanks !!
 

Maccini

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Yes, that is correct.

1. I ran the power cord (standard RJ11 configuration) to the single jack side of the splitter.
2. I ran a standard RJ11 cable from the V1 to one of the dual jacks side of the splitter.
3. I cut a connector off one end of a RJ11 cable. I crimped a new connector upside down (flipped) and marked the connector.
4. I inserted the newly flipped (marked) modified RJ11 connector into the Dongle. I inserted the other end of that cable (non modified end) into the last remaining splitter jack.

Sorry for over simplifying, just want to make sure anyone that is electrically challenged understands. LOL .... maybe oversimplifying made it more confusing?

+ NOTE: The reason I say to mark the flipped connector ... If you ever take the assembly apart, you know what cable is modified and which one is not. You also know which one you crimped.
 
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mswlogo

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I installed today. Went fine. I tested with a Meter that with each component it got the same polarity as it would with the Cigarette Lighter adapter.

I ended up having power going into the double side of the Y splitter and V1 in double side as well and the Dongle was on the single side and required crimp flip.

I believe they both have a protector diode, but I didn't test that theory out.

I have the splitter inside the ceiling cluster (near where I tap the mirror power), the dongle is inside the sunglasses holder so I can check it if needed and just a single wire going out to the V1. Nice and clean.
 
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